[paulome]

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I've watched endless YouTube videos and scoured the internets.

So I have already swapped all the speakers in my base audio X1 to audison and that makes a huge difference. The next step is to add an Amp because the head unit really can't drive the speakers that well.

So I am working out what the best way of getting power to the amp is.

So I've seen people go from the battery through the bulkhead to the boot and use a ground there in the boot. On top of the battery is what looks like something that could take a power connection but I don't know if this is the case for UK X1

I am aware there is an actual fusebox in the car and for a pre built hifi there would be a fuse here. I don't know whether I should be pulling power from that (but it also looks very very difficult to access)

I also note that the boot of the car has power with the 12v lighter and it's my understanding that is a 20amp connection from the fusebox. This would be the path of least resistance but I've not read anyone using this - so there's probably something very wrong with it

The rest of the wiring would be the looms from Audison from the head and the seats so that should be okay.

It's the power I'm most concerned with, not something I've messed with before.

In fact is there such a thing as a mobile installer who could do this for me? There's no one locally that can do it that I've found and I just want the install - I'll do the calibration and set up...

cheers
Paul

[mrpingu]

I answered you in the X2 forum. But in addition to that and to answer your question about access:
You have to remove the glove box to gain access.

[paulome]

Originally Posted by mrpingu

I answered you in the X2 forum. But in addition to that and to answer your question about access:
You have to remove the glove box to gain access.

That's amazingly useful, thank you.

Couple of points, the amp itself (Audison F8.9) has 2 x 30amp fuses on it. There is a HiFi fuse on the diagram that says 30 amp. I don't know if the base audio still has that fuse.

I'm struggling to find the actual amperage of the amp. The quoted is based on a signal into 2 Ohm (55amp), but I am 4 Ohm. In theory 30 amp would give around 360w of power at 12v.

The amp would be capable of driving 4 x 85w and 2 x 130w however I cannot ever see me being anywhere near that. The base head is loud enough at 15w(?) per channel. But the head unit cannot drive the underseats very well at all. Hence needing an amp to drive everything 'properly'

So in this case, 30amp is probably fine but I don't know whether because the amp could do more is it going just trip the fuse or is it a case of if you don't turn it up to 11 then the power draw would never trip?

I could get a lesser amp I guess.

When it comes to getting a cable to the fuse box what kind of connection can be used? Once I've got to the fuse box, what's the best way of connecting?

I note that the rear 12v point is rated at 20 amp. Make me wonder whether a small amp off that would be enough...

thanks again!
Paul

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by paulome

That's amazingly useful, thank you.

Couple of points, the amp itself (Audison F8.9) has 2 x 30amp fuses on it. There is a HiFi fuse on the diagram that says 30 amp. I don't know if the base audio still has that fuse.

I'm struggling to find the actual amperage of the amp. The quoted is based on a signal into 2 Ohm (55amp), but I am 4 Ohm. In theory 30 amp would give around 360w of power at 12v.

The amp would be capable of driving 4 x 85w and 2 x 130w however I cannot ever see me being anywhere near that. The base head is loud enough at 15w(?) per channel. But the head unit cannot drive the underseats very well at all. Hence needing an amp to drive everything 'properly'

So in this case, 30amp is probably fine but I don't know whether because the amp could do more is it going just trip the fuse or is it a case of if you don't turn it up to 11 then the power draw would never trip?

I could get a lesser amp I guess.

When it comes to getting a cable to the fuse box what kind of connection can be used? Once I've got to the fuse box, what's the best way of connecting?

I note that the rear 12v point is rated at 20 amp. Make me wonder whether a small amp off that would be enough...

thanks again!
Paul

Using my fuse guide you can use 2 fuses just find a free spot on the same terminal Base audio probably has not the fuse inserte for HiFi amp. Easiest is to check yourself.

But if the amp has two fuses on it already then you don’t need to fuse it again but… it’s easier to take power from the fusebox then going through the firewall. However on the driverside there is an unused grommet you can push out from the inside.

If you are going to the fuse box route

You need the double leaf spring contacts back in the fusebox, see the other topic. No 1 and 2 in the diagram.

Also a thing to keep in mind is the wire thickness, 30A need thicker wire than 20A


Where do you plan to locate the AMP and where are you going to run/ reuse the speaker wires?

[paulome]

Originally Posted by mrpingu

Using my fuse guide you can use 2 fuses just find a free spot on the same terminal Base audio probably has not the fuse inserte for HiFi amp. Easiest is to check yourself.

But if the amp has two fuses on it already then you don’t need to fuse it again but… it’s easier to take power from the fusebox then going through the firewall. However on the driverside there is an unused grommet you can push out from the inside.

If you are going to the fuse box route

You need the double leaf spring contacts back in the fusebox, see the other topic. No 1 and 2 in the diagram.

Also a thing to keep in mind is the wire thickness, 30A need thicker wire than 20A


Where do you plan to locate the AMP and where are you going to run/ reuse the speaker wires?

Even if the amp is fused I was under the impression a fuse needs to be as close to the battery because if there was an issue with the cable it could be live.

I'll check the double leaf spring contacts. I'm sure you're right. The base probably doesn't have a 30a fuse there. Would there be another place I could take it from?

If it was to come through the bulkhead then back on the battery itself there is a plate with connections but I'm lead to believe any free ones also probably don't have connections in.

It seems that most people put the amp in the boot. I have the audio wiring harnesses from Audison. So that would be a connector from the head unit channeled down the side to the rear. Then there is another speaker connector from the two front seats so that the underseats can be driven separately, and that then channelled to the back - all of this on the passenger side. I believe there are many cables doing this already.

If I could install the amp up front them I guess I would but realistically there's got to be a reason why everyone pops it in the back and perhaps heat/space.

Looking at the specs there is a version of the amp which has half the power, and is rated for 30a. So perhaps that may be a better choice.

So that 20a boot cigarette power is a no no?

cheers
Paul

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by paulome

Even if the amp is fused I was under the impression a fuse needs to be as close to the battery because if there was an issue with the cable it could be live.

In a way that is true, but that is only true if the wire is too thin. But in most systems the fuse is the weakest link so that burns, without a fuse at all then it might be the wire that starts melting. In case the wire is of sufficient thickness it doesn’t really matter where it is fused.

This is why, using the fusebox is the cleanest way. There is a wire directly from battery going into the fusebox, this wire is also fused and is really thick.

Originally Posted by paulome

I'll check the double leaf spring contacts. I'm sure you're right. The base probably doesn't have a 30a fuse there. Would there be another place I could take it from?

The point being is that you add the spring leaf contact to the back of the fusebox, when inserting the the spring leaf contact AND the fuse you have now power on that wire.

I found this video helpful: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e7vaPIqexP0

Originally Posted by paulome

If it was to come through the bulkhead then back on the battery itself there is a plate with connections but I'm lead to believe any free ones also probably don't have connections in.

That’s true; that why you put those leaf contacts in the back, see the video above.

Originally Posted by paulome

It seems that most people put the amp in the boot. I have the audio wiring harnesses from Audison. So that would be a connector from the head unit channeled down the side to the rear. Then there is another speaker connector from the two front seats so that the underseats can be driven separately, and that then channelled to the back - all of this on the passenger side. I believe there are many cables doing this already.

Yeah so I you need to pull a bunch of wires through whole of the car, so I don’t see the problem with also pulling the 12V from the fuse box to the back the get the power in the back.

Originally Posted by paulome

If I could install the amp up front them I guess I would but realistically there's got to be a reason why everyone pops it in the back and perhaps heat/space.

Most space and easiest to conceal it, but also most other BMW’s have the battery in the back so… if the amp is thin enough it fits under the glovebox.

Originally Posted by paulome

Looking at the specs there is a version of the amp which has half the power, and is rated for 30a. So perhaps that may be a better choice.

So that 20a boot cigarette power is a no no?

/

Probably will be fine as there is overhead in the wire but from 20A to 30A + 30A is a bit of a stretch.

But again I don’t see the problem for you as you need to run wires through the car anyway to just buy 2 spring leaf contacts and run the wires from the fuse box and use 2x 30A fuses in the fuse box.

[paulome]

Firstly again, thanks so much for replying, it's really useful.

Originally Posted by mrpingu

This is why, using the fusebox is the cleanest way. There is a wire directly from battery going into the fusebox, this wire is also fused and is really thick.

Seems so. I watched the video. I assume the X1 fuse board will be similar and it looks like the front of the board needs taking out to get to the back. Is this something you've done with the LED grill project you did?

The guidances shows a LHD but on a RHD I assume the fuse box is still passenger side behind the passenger compartment unit.

How difficult was it to get to it? And to work with it?

Originally Posted by mrpingu

Most space and easiest to conceal it, but also most other BMW’s have the battery in the back so… if the amp is thin enough it fits under the glovebox.

Certainly exploring other areas, but suspect the back is perhaps best overall

Originally Posted by mrpingu

Probably will be fine as there is overhead in the wire but from 20A to 30A + 30A is a bit of a stretch.

If I looked at that I'd probably look at a less powerful Amp.

Originally Posted by mrpingu

But again I don’t see the problem for you as you need to run wires through the car anyway to just buy 2 spring leaf contacts and run the wires from the fuse box and use 2x 30A fuses in the fuse box.

You're right, but the fusebox looks pretty challenging vs running speaker cables to the back.

I hadn't considered 2x30a. I presume they just get joined together? But if one fuse blew then is there an issue with a joined power connection? Are there potential dangers here?

I could swap the amp for the model under, which draws less power and is rated for 30amp. I hadn't really considered that to be an issue with the bigger amp but it does make sense.

thanks
Paul

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by paulome

Firstly again, thanks so much for replying, it's really useful.



Seems so. I watched the video. I assume the X1 fuse board will be similar and it looks like the front of the board needs taking out to get to the back. Is this something you've done with the LED grill project you did?

The guidances shows a LHD but on a RHD I assume the fuse box is still passenger side behind the passenger compartment unit.

How difficult was it to get to it? And to work with it?

No not for the LED in grill yet, but have to do that but for the Trailer Hitch I did.

On X1 the board hangs on kind of hinges, if you get the glovebox off you have to push down the airducts for feet heater a little down and then you get it out see the attached images

Originally Posted by paulome

Certainly exploring other areas, but suspect the back is perhaps best overall


If I looked at that I'd probably look at a less powerful Amp.
You're right, but the fusebox looks pretty challenging vs running speaker cables to the back.

I Don’t see How that should be more difficult, in my head I mean you need to take output from the Headunit to the amp (If you want to get to the sides it’s easiest to remove the glovebox and then then run it passenger side to the back) then from the back you need either connect the speakers. Either with new cable and or add them at the headunit. At this point you already have dismantled a good part of the car to run those wires. So taking it directly from the battery to the amp or from the fusebox I don’t see that as much more difficult.

Originally Posted by paulome

I hadn't considered 2x30a. I presume they just get joined together? But if one fuse blew then is there an issue with a joined power connection? Are there potential dangers here?

I could swap the amp for the model under, which draws less power and is rated for 30amp. I hadn't really considered that to be an issue with the bigger amp but it does make sense.

thanks
Paul

Yeah th wil be joined, probably 2 power lines, how it’s split up I don’t know but probably 30A for the woofers and 30A for the rest.
The only danger is using too thin wires. Look up AWG 12V chart.

[paulome]

Originally Posted by mrpingu

I Don’t see How that should be more difficult, in my head I mean you need to take output from the Headunit to the amp (If you want to get to the sides it’s easiest to remove the glovebox and then then run it passenger side to the back) then from the back you need either connect the speakers. Either with new cable and or add them at the headunit. At this point you already have dismantled a good part of the car to run those wires. So taking it directly from the battery to the amp or from the fusebox I don’t see that as much more difficult.

I just need to watch and read as much about the fusebox so I'm comfortable doing that. I just bought a fusebox off eBay which should be the same, so I can understand it better.

Routing the cables are fine, just fiddly. No issues doing the speakers or cross overs and getting the seats out - that was easy.

I think part of the challenge is finding an appropriate location to pull the power from. The car is based audio - no amp and I will need to get to the fusebox to see what is in there and whether there are 'spare' 30a fuses and connections I can get to.

thanks!
Paul

[paulome]

Originally Posted by mrpingu

I Don’t see How that should be more difficult, in my head

Sorry, this is an actual question. Look at guides I see people using fuse taps to wire in some accessories but I am guessing fuse taps won't be good enough for 30a worth of power.

So how would I actually go about getting a cable in?

I would have to remove one of the plugs from the back (like the you tube video) and you mentioned above double spring connectors. Could you explain a bit more?

thanks
Paul

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by paulome

I just need to watch and read as much about the fusebox so I'm comfortable doing that. I just bought a fusebox off eBay which should be the same, so I can understand it better.

Routing the cables are fine, just fiddly. No issues doing the speakers or cross overs and getting the seats out - that was easy.

I think part of the challenge is finding an appropriate location to pull the power from. The car is based audio - no amp and I will need to get to the fusebox to see what is in there and whether there are 'spare' 30a fuses and connections I can get to.

thanks!
Paul

Depinning is a pain but adding is not that hard if you have a wire with the double leaf spring contact.

If you look at the attached photo you see how it works. 5 of the slots are pinned. This means the outside edges now have metal.

The middle row is always hot (has always 12V) it has metal springs as well but hard to see on the photo.

when plugging in a double leaf spring contact you add basically a a slot for the fuse to go and when omsetting the fuse you let the power flow from the middle to the outside. The outside is connected to the outgoing wire. In other words the the fuse acts as a bridge.

Hope I explained in a good way.

It’s not hard either, just time consuming /fiddly like you say. Although glovebox out is max 10 min job.

But again this is certainly the most clean and professional way to do it.


Add-a-fuse is basically the same thing but you can plug in the wrong way, if you do that everything goes through the first fuse before it goes through the second. Explained here as problem 1 and 2: https://www.evilution.co.uk/mod/fuse-taps.htm

Problem 4 is almost non-existent practically in our cars as the fusebox is almost directly connected to the battery and there is a lot of headroom if I had to guess. While it might be, do I think it’s not really a practical limit you will be hitting here.

[paulome]

Originally Posted by mrpingu

If you look at the attached photo you see how it works. 5 of the slots are pinned. This means the outside edges now have metal.

I don't know if that photo got uploaded? Nothing with the post here. Looking at the front of the fuse box I probably cannot tell which are pinned and which are empty.

Originally Posted by mrpingu

Add-a-fuse is basically the same thing but you can plug in the wrong way, if you do that everything goes through the first fuse before it goes through the second. Explained here as problem 1 and 2:

This appears to be a simpler way of getting it done so long as it's done carefully, no? Means that the whole fuse doesn't have to come off to get to the back. I've seen these things rated for 30amps too.

Aside from it not really being a pro method and getting it the right way around, are there additional downsides I'm missing?

thanks!
Paul

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by paulome

This appears to be a simpler way of getting it done so long as it's done carefully, no? Means that the whole fuse doesn't have to come off to get to the back. I've seen these things rated for 30amps too.

Aside from it not really being a pro method and getting it the right way around, are there additional downsides I'm missing?

thanks!
Paul

No all downsides are mentioned on that website I linked to. It’s basically the same if done correctly.

I think you are overthinking this Just start and you will see you will be fine in the end.

Reuploaded the images

[paulome]

Originally Posted by mrpingu

I think you are overthinking this Just start and you will see you will be fine in the end.

You're probably right there. So I will. Thanks so much for the help

cheers
Paul

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by paulome

You're probably right there. So I will. Thanks so much for the help

cheers
Paul

Good luck

[paulome]

Originally Posted by mrpingu

Good luck

So interestingly my fuse box that I just took a photo of doesn't seem to have that whole section that you're showing. This is a 2017 X1.

What I assume I could do is that I see metal on the sides of some of the fuses, like where there is 20, 40 and 20. I assume that side is battery positive but on the other side would currently be empty.

Strikes me the simplest thing is a Fuse Tap in there with an empty slot for the tapped fuse and a 30amp with 30amp cable off. That way I don't have to try and get the main fuse part off and then try to add metal tabs in there. That would be 10awg cable.

Sounds plausible?

cheers
Paul