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03-15-2012, 10:34 PM | #1 |
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Track Day - Preparation tips
So I have booked my brother and myself into a track day a wakefield next month and I havent been on a track before and I am pretty sure my brother hasnt either.
Anyway, what I was hoping for is some pointers about how I should prepare the car so that it doesnt shit itself on the track or get damaged. I saw that thread about caliper pistons cracking and got a bit concerned - anything else like that to be aware of? Also, any mods you wouldnt go onto a track without? |
03-15-2012, 11:33 PM | #2 |
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I've done a few days and all I really do it make sure all the fluids are topped up/fresh, some meat on the pads and tyres and of course a working helmet!
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03-15-2012, 11:34 PM | #3 |
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Here's a start..
Helmet if you don't have one. Check tyre pressures. Try and change your oil/filter plus brake fluid before and after event. If you're changing wheels/tyres a lot maybe consider a stud conversion. Drive safe and have fun. Try not to let your ego get the better of you as there will be slower cars passing. It's all about having fun. |
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03-15-2012, 11:37 PM | #4 |
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Empty the car of everything that can become a missile.
In the cabin and in the boot. Check your battery mount - no loose screws. Up your tyre pressures to about 40psi Drain your tank to 10% (while normal driving is fine) and fill up two to three times with a good quality fuel prior to the day. Check all your fluids - replace your brake fluid if it is a few years old, especially if you plan to go hard. Put your ego in a steel box, lock the box and leave it at home. You are there to have fun and not try to keep up with anyone else. Doing so puts noobs into the realm of "the brain writing cheques that the driver can't cash". Always ends in pain. Have fun.
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03-15-2012, 11:45 PM | #5 | |
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I need new brakes soon, so should I use the current ones up and change after or is it much safer/better to use new. I was thinking of getting drilled/slotted for the front but not sure if its overkill (might end up not going to the track again). Getting the car home in the condition it got there is more important to me than lap times (dont think there will be timing anyway). |
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03-16-2012, 12:02 AM | #6 |
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How long has it been since you changed the oil? I think it's more beneficial to change it afterwards if you can only do it once.
Also, rotors won't make a noticeable difference. I've actually read cross drilled are more prone to cracking under extreme conditions although they are able to dispense heat better. I'm not sure if there is any truth to this. I have Performance rotors on my car because I like how they look. No issues so far. As for the pads, it's up to you. If your car still pulls up okay then I'd change them after so you get the most out of the pads. Only you can judge that though. If you get new pads you'll need to bed them in properly before you head out plus i'd flush the fluid too. |
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03-16-2012, 07:39 PM | #7 |
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Don't drive at 100% - there's no margin for error. Find a comfortable limit, even if it's a little scary, and stick to it. If you want to try something to test yourself or the car make sure you have plenty of space and have a plan for errors. I.e. run off area, no traffic around you, no walls etc.
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03-16-2012, 08:30 PM | #8 |
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Just relax and enjoy. I would have a look at the pads just in case - last thing you want is to not have brakes on your first go.
If you do frequent only changes, you should be fine. Just swap the oil after. For future sessions you should swap to a better oil like Motul 300V 10W40. Watch the oil temps and pull in when it gets past 130-135. |
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03-16-2012, 09:24 PM | #9 |
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Remember there's no trophy to take home at the end of the day
This one's debatable. I understand it's to ensure your rubber doesn't roll off, but it might not be the ideal pressure and can affect your grip. I found better wear and grip at my last track day on about 37psi, with no rolling. It's essentially one of those items to monitor and adjust on the day. Lots of good comments around fluids, removing ALL loose objects from every compartment. Well worth doing. |
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03-16-2012, 09:26 PM | #10 |
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Which track did you book yourself in? How's the weather going to be?
As for the brakes, the stock ones can take quite a beating with no issues. That caliper piston thread was resolved anyway without any repercussions for casual drivers like us. They were talking about a full blown race car in that thread. Bring a tyre pressure gauge, so you can check your pressures after each session to make sure they are around 40psi. Bring a compressor too just in case you're under-inflated. Power doesn't really matter that much on a track, especially your first time. Flow/rhythm and technique are what you should focus on. Place your car correctly before each corner and you'll be surprised how much faster you become.
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03-16-2012, 09:43 PM | #11 |
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Its a "Trackschool" day at wakefield park on April 24th so I have no idea what the weather will be like.
It is a beginners session with instructors so my plan is to just do what they tell me to do - dont think I can go wrong there. I was planning on getting the suspension upgraded later on in the year but now I am wondering whether I should do it sooner instead. |
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03-16-2012, 09:50 PM | #12 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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03-17-2012, 06:04 PM | #14 |
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My 5c
Mandatory: Remove everything not tied down from inside the car including floor mats Make sure you have plenty of front pads left. If your brake fluid is more than 12months old i'd think about replacing it. Check all your hoses. Check oil, coolant, brake fluid levels Ask Boz or the instuctors what pressure to run. (I've run 32PSI cold and been at 40PSI after 10 laps.) I have no idea what runflats are like pressure wise. Optional: Change Oil before, if is it almost due to be changed anyway. Re the suspension, I'd worry about getting consistant lap times and learning lines and the car before upgrading. Nothing more demoralising than spending several $k on mods and then getting passed by someone in a stock car becuase they can drive better. Boz and the guys at trackschool will look after you. Just tell them it is your first time. Ask them anything and everything and you will have a great day and learn a whole heap. I'm going on the 31st march and might try to get a day off on the 24th as well. |
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03-17-2012, 07:04 PM | #15 |
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I had the tyres set to 36psi on cold and after my first 5 laps they shot up to 45psi. Definitely monitor the tyre pressure, they should have those facilities there.
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03-17-2012, 07:12 PM | #16 |
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Always do a cool-down lap to ventilate the brakes before heading into the pits and once sitting in the pits, refrain from using the handbrake as it'll push the pads against hot rotors which will heat up (boil) the brake fluid.
Enjoy
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03-17-2012, 08:00 PM | #17 |
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One thing I had an issue with was the power steering fluid. Didn't stop me driving but overheated and sprayed out a bit.
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03-17-2012, 09:28 PM | #18 |
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Not so much boil the fluid as create a disproportional hot spot on the disc which can warp it. Also, just as important, go out easy in the next session and check the brakes before barrelling into a corner at full song only to find the pedal go to the floor. Had that happen and it's not a nice feeling.
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03-18-2012, 02:08 AM | #19 |
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Ditto. I was mopping it up after every run earlier this month, as was a mate in his 335. Thinking about a catch can or similar here.
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03-18-2012, 02:28 AM | #20 |
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Thanks for all the replies guys, very helpful.
THe sessions are apparently 15mins per hour each but as we are going to share my car, it will mean 30min sessions so am a bit worried it might get too stressed. I am going to have a look at changing some of the fluids to be better prepared. Also, was planning on pairing koni fsds with perf springs but might just switch straight to coilovers. |
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03-21-2012, 06:37 PM | #21 |
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Hi,
Sorry to hijack this thread, you can delete this afterward. I am just trying to get Drawn05 attention regarding the Injen intake for N52, as I just joined as a new 130i owner and do not have 10 post yet. please let me know if it is still for sale. thank you and sorry again. |
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