Grooved Brembo Rotors, where do I get them re-surfaced?

[disapr]

I managed to burn through my front pads at the track this weekend and subsequently trashed the inside of both front rotors. Where do I get these re-surfaced? I used to take normal rotors to a dealership or auto parts but I don't know if they can accommodate this huge rotor or if I trust them with it.

I'm in Houston, TX if anyone knows of a place locally.

Thanks

[bigjae1976]

Not sure if its going to be worth it. I think the issue you're going to run into is the rotor run out after you machine them will be beyond spec. I know Stoptech allows for 2mm of wear before replacing the discs. I'm sure Brembo's spec is similar.

Anyways...I don't think you should machine 2pc drilled/slotted rotors although some people say they have.

[disapr]

.

[JAJ]

Are those pads actually down to and into the metal?

Unless the grooving is much worse than the photos show, the rotors look usable so long as they're not too thin. New pads will conform to the grooves. It's not optimal, but it'll do.

[disapr]

Originally Posted by JAJ

Are those pads actually down to and into the metal?

Unless the grooving is much worse than the photos show, the rotors look usable so long as they're not too thin. New pads will conform to the grooves. It's not optimal, but it'll do.

Yes - It was burning through the backing plate! The rotor that was against the pad pictured is roughed up but not grooved as bad as the other side. The other one I haven't pulled apart yet - it looks like it still has some pad but the rotor has grooves that you can barely catch with your fingernails.

I'll post as pic of that one in a few.

Would a hard pad like a Pagid Yellow clean these up or would it just chew up the expensive pad sooner?

[disapr]

Pulled the other (drivers side) caliper off - It turns out that the grooves in the first rotor picture are actually lines of pad material. It takes some work but I was able to scrape some them off with a plastic razor and then the rotor was pretty smooth, at least in my little test spot. This side also still had a very small amount of pad material left so it wasn't metal to metal.

The other rotor (bottom pic) has a pretty rough feel in some areas but it's not too bad.

[paradocs98]

Wow! How much pad material did you have prior to the track day? Around half? Quarter? And which pads were you running with the Brembos?

That direct metal-on-metal must have been NOISY at the end of the fourth run! Glad you're ok and didn't have an incident in a braking zone.

According to some of the guys on here, some BBKs require a new set of rotors (or "friction rings") with every three or so sets of pads, so you might have been coming due for new rotors anyway.

[jml]

Measure the thickness of the rotors, and check against the min limit. You may be fine.

Even if you have a BBK, you really need to run a proper track pad. There is no such thing as a dual-use pad (as you've just discovered).

Be safe

[JAJ]

Originally Posted by disapr

Pulled the other (drivers side) caliper off - It turns out that the grooves in the first rotor picture are actually lines of pad material. It takes some work but I was able to scrape some them off with a plastic razor and then the rotor was pretty smooth, at least in my little test spot. This side also still had a very small amount of pad material left so it wasn't metal to metal.

The other rotor (bottom pic) has a pretty rough feel in some areas but it's not too bad.

As jml said, if the rotors are above the minimum limit, then get some pads and keep going.

[disapr]

Originally Posted by paradocs98

Wow! How much pad material did you have prior to the track day? Around half? Quarter? And which pads were you running with the Brembos?

That direct metal-on-metal must have been NOISY at the end of the fourth run! Glad you're ok and didn't have an incident in a braking zone.

According to some of the guys on here, some BBKs require a new set of rotors (or "friction rings") with every three or so sets of pads, so you might have been coming due for new rotors anyway.

I had a little less than half the original thickness when I left for the track. This is the original set of Ferodo DS2500's that came with the kit and I have about 20 sessions on them including the one that was finished on metal.

It really wasn't that loud - I just felt the pedal go limp and pulled into the pits.

Originally Posted by jml

Measure the thickness of the rotors, and check against the min limit. You may be fine.

Even if you have a BBK, you really need to run a proper track pad. There is no such thing as a dual-use pad (as you've just discovered).

Be safe

Yeah, I see that now..

I'll probably buy another set of DS2500's for the street and some Pagid RS19 or RS29's for the track. Should I run track pads in the rear or just the front? My rear pads have a ton of compound left.

Any thoughts on Pagid vs PFC or any other popular pads for the Brembo kit? I've been reading up on them but there are a million conflicting opinions.

The big thing that I need to figure out is if I need to buy new rings or not.

[disapr]

Originally Posted by JAJ

As jml said, if the rotors are above the minimum limit, then get some pads and keep going.

I'm at 33.64mm on the metal to metal rotor and 33.68mm on the other. Min is 32mm

[M3roar]

sorry bud, hope it works out for you!

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by disapr

I'll probably buy another set of DS2500's for the street and some Pagid RS19 or RS29's for the track. Should I run track pads in the rear or just the front? My rear pads have a ton of compound left.

Any thoughts on Pagid vs PFC or any other popular pads for the Brembo kit? I've been reading up on them but there are a million conflicting opinions.

Does Pagid make a street pad for the Brembo calipers? I'm asking because some times pad compounds from different manufactures are not compatible. I'm having a custom set of Carbotech street pads being fab'd for my PFC BBK and Carbotech is recommending I sand/clean the rotor surface before installing the pads.

It's hard to recommend a pad to someone because people like different things about different pads (initial bite, modulation, release, etc) - it sounds like you've already come across this with the research you've done so far. However, personally, I've had great success with PFC 05 and 01 compounds on my e92 (PFC BBK) and e46 (AP BBK) M3s. I also like Carbotech XP14 but that compound wears a little more quickly than PFC compounds.

[iDRIFT]

bring ur rotors to a local machine shop , theyll put it on the lathe an jus face it zero

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by disapr

I'm at 33.64mm on the metal to metal rotor and 33.68mm on the other. Min is 32mm

You're fortunate and should be good to go. I had a set of PFC DD rotors which grooved pretty bad. I just threw in another set of pads and went to town. The pads will have raised grooves to match the rotor but it works.

I hope you weren't charging down the front straight on TWS when your pedal went limp...not fun.

[disapr]

Originally Posted by dbarnes

Does Pagid make a street pad for the Brembo calipers?

I'm looking into all of this more today. It's my understanding though that a track pad driven under temp will act as a lathe and clean the rotor enough to bed-in correctly. Then when the track pads cool they will clean the rotor again in preparation for the street pads.

Originally Posted by http://www.zeckhausen.com/avoiding_brake_judder.htm

Use Race Pads as a Tool to Remove

Deposits from Rotors

If you install race pads before your track event and drive around normally, the race pads will polish away the transfer layer left behind by your street pads. This leaves you with nice, clean rotors which may be bedded with your race pads when you are at or near the track.

After the track event is over, you should not switch back to street pads right away. Instead, drive home from the event using your race pads. As they cool down, the race pads will once again go into pure abrasive mode and polish away their own transfer layer from your race weekend. Cold race pads will even cure judder problems from pad deposits accumulated during the track event. By the time you get home, the rotors are polished clean and ready for you to install and bed your street pads.

In essence, you are using your race pads as portable brake lathes. The race pads are a tool for removing unwanted transfer layer before and after your track event.

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

You're fortunate and should be good to go. I had a set of PFC DD rotors which grooved pretty bad. I just threw in another set of pads and went to town. The pads will have raised grooves to match the rotor but it works.

I hope you weren't charging down the front straight on TWS when your pedal went limp...not fun.

It still stopped about as good as the stock brakes do when hot


j/k

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by disapr

I'm looking into all of this more today. It's my understanding though that a track pad driven under temp will act as a lathe and clean the rotor enough to bed-in correctly. Then when the track pads cool they will clean the rotor again in preparation for the street pads.

It still stopped about as good as the stock brakes do when hot

j/k

I think hawk makes a really hard blue pad or something but that will just take off the pad deposits. I don't think it will smooth out your rotors. IIRC....those things weren't cheap.

[JAJ]

Originally Posted by disapr

I'll probably buy another set of DS2500's for the street and some Pagid RS19 or RS29's for the track. Should I run track pads in the rear or just the front? My rear pads have a ton of compound left.

What brakes do you have in the rear? My personal preference is to run the same pad front and rear whenever possible, with the proviso that I check the running temps in the hot pits at least once per outing to make sure that everything is balanced properly.

I've used Pagid RS19's on M3 stock brakes all the way around and on the front of my Mustang GT Brembo and they stop just fine on the street. The M3 stock brakes squealed like a school bus with RS19's, but the Brembo's have been quiet.

[disapr]

Originally Posted by JAJ

What brakes do you have in the rear? My personal preference is to run the same pad front and rear whenever possible, with the proviso that I check the running temps in the hot pits at least once per outing to make sure that everything is balanced properly.

I've used Pagid RS19's on M3 stock brakes all the way around and on the front of my Mustang GT Brembo and they stop just fine on the street. The M3 stock brakes squealed like a school bus with RS19's, but the Brembo's have been quiet.

I'm running kit pads all around (Ferodo DS2500),

I just ordered a full set of Pagid Yellow RS29's from Craig. My plan now is to let these clean up the rotors some, bed them in and get back on the track.

What is the best tool for compressing the pistons? I've always used a c-clamp but I've never done this on a brembo with a custom candy apple finish. Also do I need any other parts or products to install these pads?

[Gearhead999s]

Originally Posted by disapr

I'm running kit pads all around (Ferodo DS2500),

I just ordered a full set of Pagid Yellow RS29's from Craig. My plan now is to let these clean up the rotors some, bed them in and get back on the track.

What is the best tool for compressing the pistons? I've always used a c-clamp but I've never done this on a brembo with a custom candy apple finish. Also do I need any other parts or products to install these pads?

I use a pad/piston spreader like this.

http://www.girodisc.com/Caliper-pist...er_p_5970.html

They work great and save a lot of time & agro.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by disapr

What is the best tool for compressing the pistons? I've always used a c-clamp but I've never done this on a brembo with a custom candy apple finish. Also do I need any other parts or products to install these pads?

I could only imagine...

If you undo the master cylinder cap and have strong fingers...you should be able to compress the pistons by hand. If not, a prybar with a rag works.

BTW, you might want to invest in some titanium backing plates. They help to prevent your calipers from turning brown...if you want to protect the pretty paint.

[disapr]

Thanks for the tip I'll look into that!

I can also probably muscle the pistons back in - I just like to buy the right tool when I can but at over 200 bucks, I dunno...