OEM battery connector

[808MGuy]

I know Technic has posted it before but I can't seem to find it. Where can you get this OEM connector to connect additional power wires to the battery through the OEM distribution block? Does it come in different sizes for larger cables? I'm hoping to install a 2 AWG wire for an amp but if not I'm sure I can get by with 4 AWG since the run is so short.

[Technic]

That OEM crimp connector is for 8 gauge and just borderline for 4 gauge, that's the reason I soldered my 4 gauge cable to it in addition to partially crimping it.

The OEM connectors and their respective housings (item 14 in single and double contacts) P/N are here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...46&hg=61&fg=30

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by Technic

That OEM crimp connector is for 8 gauge and just borderline for 4 gauge, that's the reason I soldered my 4 gauge cable to it in addition to partially crimping it.

The OEM connectors and their respective housings (item 14 in single and double contacts) P/N are here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...46&hg=61&fg=30

Is that part number a BMW part number? Could I pick this up at the dealer? I assume I wouldn't need the double contact unless I'm running 2 power wires although running parallel 8 AWG instead of a single 4 AWG might not be such a bad idea.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

Is that part number a BMW part number? Could I pick this up at the dealer? I assume I wouldn't need the double contact unless I'm running 2 power wires although running parallel 8 AWG instead of a single 4 AWG might not be such a bad idea.

The very first thing you should do is to find out if you have empty slots with actual male tabs in the distribution block, and if you have some then get the respective connector for it.

I noticed that in my distribution block some of the empty slots did not have the metal tab to connect.

The P/N are legit, just combine the 1-POL (single) or 2-POL (double) connector P/N to their respective housing P/N and order them thru your dealer or Tisher/United BMW online.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by Technic

The very first thing you should do is to find out if you have empty slots with actual male tabs in the distribution block, and if you have some then get the respective connector for it.

I noticed that in my distribution block some of the empty slots did not have the metal tab to connect.

The P/N are legit, just combine the 1-POL (single) or 2-POL (double) connector P/N to their respective housing P/N and order them thru your dealer or Tisher/United BMW online.

I tried looking into the block today with a mirror but I couldn't really tell if there were any connectors in there. I wasn't sure exactly what I was looking for. Is there an easy way to see inside that block without disconnecting the whole thing?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

I tried looking into the block today with a mirror but I couldn't really tell if there were any connectors in there. I wasn't sure exactly what I was looking for. Is there an easy way to see inside that block without disconnecting the whole thing?

Try using a multimeter probe, one probe in ground and the other inside each empty slot.

That will tell you which slot has a live tab (or two tabs).

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by Technic

Try using a multimeter probe, one probe in ground and the other inside each empty slot.

That will tell you which slot has a live tab (or two tabs).

Crap. I hate when the simple answer is overlooked! Thanks for the tip

[808MGuy]

Checked it this afternoon. Looks like only one slot is live So much for my idea of running 2 sets of 8 AWG. Looks like my only choice is to squeeze a 4 AWG in that 8 AWG connector too.

[808MGuy]

Just checking out this picture, I'm wondering how the OEM distribution block is connected to the battery.



At first I was thinking its a bus tie but looking at the picture it looks like cable #6 might be the one feeding the distribution block. If that's the case, that's only a 4 AWG and with all the other connections made on that block it might not be enough to support the existing loads and the added load from my amp.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

Just checking out this picture, I'm wondering how the OEM distribution block is connected to the battery.



At first I was thinking its a bus tie but looking at the picture it looks like cable #6 might be the one feeding the distribution block. If that's the case, that's only a 4 AWG and with all the other connections made on that block it might not be enough to support the existing loads and the added load from my amp.

Remember that the total current load varies also with cable distance, so that short 4 AWG should provide most of the current that the thicker main battery cable item #4 (2 AWG??) is providing.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by Technic

Remember that the total current load varies also with cable distance, so that short 4 AWG should provide most of the current that the thicker main battery cable item #4 (2 AWG??) is providing.

I bought a Zapco DC 650.6 which has an 80A fuse and 4 AWG is rated for 85A. I know I will probably never get close to actually drawing 80A and like you said, the cable runs are short so voltage drop is not really an issue but I wasn't sure what the other loads on that block were so I was a little concerned. You're running a PDX 4.100 and 1.600 from that block right. I assume that the draw on those two amps are probably similar or even higher than my DC 650.6 so I've you've never noticed any electrical issues than I'm sure I'll be fine too.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

I bought a Zapco DC 650.6 which has an 80A fuse and 4 AWG is rated for 85A. I know I will probably never get close to actually drawing 80A and like you said, the cable runs are short so voltage drop is not really an issue but I wasn't sure what the other loads on that block were so I was a little concerned. You're running a PDX 4.100 and 1.600 from that block right. I assume that the draw on those two amps are probably similar or even higher than my DC 650.6 so I've you've never noticed any electrical issues than I'm sure I'll be fine too.

You should be fine as long as you do not play your music at "slap your face" levels of bass. That's where about 90% of the current load will be...

I got a 4.150 (60A fuse) and a 4.100 (50A fuse) and I like to listen to music a lot with the car off, and so far no issues... but I use a battery tender at least every other weekend to keep the battery from premature crapulation.