Towing Advice

[4M]

Question for those who tow your car - Has anyone sourced or fabricated tie down tow hooks for the E92? I have tried to research the different methods that people use to tie down their cars. There seem to be three schools of thought: tire straps, hooking to the axle or a t-hook into the frame under the jack pad. All have merit, but I have seen the following approach with the P cars that makes sense to me and would be considerably easier/more efficient.
The piece pictured bolts on. Welcome feedback and other ideas too.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...TRERCE_pg3.htm

[scotty_miller]

I use t-hooks. I've never had a problem with them. Nice thing about them is you can load your car while everything is still hot if you don't want to swap wheels sets before you head back home. I used wheels straps on a hot wheel once and it baked the brake dust to the wheel. After that happened I switched to t-hooks and never looked back

[1MOREMOD]

I just have padded loops that go thru the wheels. Just can't go crazy with ratcheting them down or may have issue with alignment

[TZANIDO777]

I like the t-hook method but constantly removing and re-installing the jack pads can be a pain...I just use wheel straps for now and haven't had a problem.

[4M]

Thanks Gents.

Yes the jack pad thing is the downside to that method. Mac's seems to be the end all for everything you need to tow safely. Do you know/remember where you sourced the t-hooks?

On the wheel straps, the alignment issue is usually the one cited - just haven't seen hard evidence there. To me, anything that can be done to take load off the wheels is a positive to wear and tear. Every mile you travel -whether on track or in the tailer - takes some kind of toll on the suspension parts.

I've recently heard of someone who uses a inflatable bladder - think Bosu ball for the front and rear of the car - to take some of the load off. It makes intuitive sense to me as long as the car is still stable in the trailer, but I need to learn more and will share when I do.

[4M]

Slightly different take on the bolt on approach.

[1MOREMOD]

When my initial portion of build was done and car was dropped off they reefed on the straps too tight and my alignment was screwed up. Since then have never had an issue doing it myself

[CorruptCommie]

Pierce towing t-hook you can order direct from the manuf:
https://www.piercesales.com/t-hook/

I have a set of AKG tow plates mounted to the rear strut lower bolt if I ever need to tow, not sure if those will work for E9x

[okusa]

Originally Posted by 4M

Slightly different take on the bolt on approach.

I bought these and installed them but bought the J hooks at the same time. I used them once but then when I went for an alignment they removed them without telling me so just started using the J hooks. Both work great. I still have the Rennline pieces sitting if you want to buy them.

[4M]

PM inbound

[4M]

Here is an example of the bladder approach if you want to go this route as added suspension protection. Mac's offers one at the same price point and then there are other less expensive options out there.

[The HACK]

Why reinstall the jack pads?

[scotty_miller]

Originally Posted by The HACK

Why reinstall the jack pads?

+1. My jack pads went from on the car right to the trash. Hockey puck or block of wood works just fine

[roastbeef]

what in the hell is that bladder thing? looks like more of a quick way of jacking up the car for a wheel change rather than a towing device.

[4M]

Could be a poor man's Air Jax system I guess, but meant to reduce wear and tear on the suspension while trailering.

Description from the site:

Place the Chassis Stabilizer directly under your race, show or collectible car prior to transport to prevent damage or wear on the chassis, suspension components, electronics, struts, springs, torsion bars and on-board computers.

Simply slide the deflated stabilizer under the most flexible point in the chassis and inflate it to 15-20 PSI. It will support some of the weight of the vehicle and minimize the effects of trailering.

The chassis stabilizer is manufactured with a proprietary heavy duty elastic rubber compound which contains a high strength internal composite support structure. Its low 1-3/4 inch profile, high strength design allows the chassis stabilizer to be positioned under the lowest of cars and still provide a stabilizing air ride. It has a fully inflated height of 10 inches.