Can't remove the lug nuts of my wheels

[darkbluemn]

My car is 2017 M4 coupe with ZCP and 666M wheel.

I just bought a spare tire in case I get flat tire during trip, which is terrible. This is my DD car.

Today I just wanted to try if I could replace the wheel & tire myself. I used a 21" lug wrench which is very solid, but I can't remove the lug nuts of 666M wheels. I even stood on it and jumped. 21" multiply my weight is at least 250 ftlb. I tried 3 lug nuts, all failed.

Any one has idea? I was doing it counter clock-wise (don't tell me it was wrong).

Thanks for your help.

[x.shell]

Get a long pole that you can sleeve over the breaker bar (like the pole on a hydraulic jack). This should give you more than 3ft of leverage which is plenty to loosen with your own arm strength. After that, be sure to torque it down to the correct ft/lb.

[M BE4ST]

Bring it to the dealer and have them re torque them all. I had the same problem and stripped one of the lugs and had to pay Bmw to remove it.

[darkbluemn]

Originally Posted by M BE4ST

Bring it to the dealer and have them re torque them all. I had the same problem and stripped one of the lugs and had to pay Bmw to remove it.

How much you pay that? I just checked a lug nut, it is a little stripped.

[M BE4ST]

Bmw re torqued them all for free but charged me I think 30$ to remove the stripped lug. I stripped it really bad though almost completely round. They had to drill it out. I'm saying before u do damage they won't cover take to them n let them remove

[Woodengun]

Electric or pneumatic impact wrench with a quality, correct sized socket. If you have to hammer the socket to get it in and seated completely on the nut then do so (since the lug nut is damaged it may not accept the correct sized socket without persuasion).

I've seen several people strip their lugs using a breaker bar. They don't seat the socket completely onto the nut and/or when they apply pressure to the bar, they do so in a way that pries the socket off the lug nut as they are trying to loosen it.

Impact wrench is more foolproof (higher financial cost though) for removing lug nuts.

[Signature Wheel BMW]

Use a RYOBI 18V 1/2 Impact and set speed at #3. Works great, even with rusted suspension parts. Only $129.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-ONE...FRe2wAodrJIHPQ

This can be prevented by using a drop of copper anti-seize on the thread of the bolt. Keep in mind when using anti-seize, you must decrease torque by 20%. So only torque to 95ft-lb with anti-seize, which is considered "lubricated" torque specs.

I've been using copper anti-seize for over 15yrs and even tracked my cars, never had any issues with wheel bolts seizing up.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by Signature Wheel BMW

Use a RYOBI 18V 1/2 Impact and set speed at #3. Works great, even with rusted suspension parts. Only $129.

This can be prevented by using a drop of copper anti-seize on the thread of the bolt. Keep in mind when using anti-seize, you must decrease torque by 20%. So only torque to 95ft-lb with anti-seize, which is considered "lubricated" torque specs.

I've been using copper anti-seize for over 15yrs and even tracked my cars, never had any issues with wheel bolts seizing up.

I also use a Ryobi 18V 1/2" impact wrench. For swapping wheels at the track I take a spare LiOn battery and a charger if I know that I'll have access to electricity. It's worked great for the last 5-6 years.

Regarding using anti-seize on lug bolts, there is decidedly mixed advice on this topic. Do your own research before following the above advice. I've been tracking cars for over 20 years and I've never used an anti-seize on my lug bolts/nuts and I've never had a problem removing them. The key is to make sure that your lug bolts/nuts don't get overtorqued. Take your own breaker bar and torque wrench to the tire installer and make sure that you check them after the installation. If you can't get them off, have the installer loosen them.