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      11-22-2016, 03:21 PM   #1
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Novice track question

Hey guys,

Just got a few novice questions to ask about tracking the car. I've recently joined a loca car club that host one tracking event a month from spring to early fall. This club hires professsional high performance instructors during their events. So far I've only did one car control course with them on an air strip and had a total blast! However this club mandates that all novice drivers must do minimum 3 car control courses before they're allowed to drive on the track. Even at the track novice drivers must drive with an instructor till they feel you're capable of going on your own. It may sound strict but so far from what I can see it's a great way to learn and stay safe. Anyways my plan is to complete the 3 required car control courses by this spring and start doing their track sessions in the summer.

I have a 2013 e92 zcp, the car is completely stock except for an exhaust that I got mainly for sound. My question are as I get more into this, other than oil, brake components and tires, what kind of added maintenance will I have to do? Is the car able to handle the added stress of occasional track driving? I don't foresee myself wanting more power out of the car, so the engine and drivetrain will most likely remain stock. Ultimately what do I need to do in order to have this car reliability be able to handle the occasional track driving and casual weekend driving?
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      11-22-2016, 03:46 PM   #2
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This may help with some general questions on track events:



I ran my first event bone stock. There are some high performance tires that are better than others (lots of info throughout the forum), and if you want a clean set for weekend cruising, then I would start to think about a different set for the tires.

A lot of guys do more frequent oil changes, as do I. I think that increasing the frequency of fluid changes makes sense as you will be pushing the car harder.
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      11-22-2016, 04:10 PM   #3
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These cars take tracking very well. You'll want to change fluids more often, but these cars are very easy to drive on the track and a huge amount of fun!

To track an M3 of any generation you need camber plates to not destroy tires every weekend. Something like the GC Street camber plate works well and isn't too expensive

Brakes will be your next concern. You'll want track pads. I suggest the PFC08 which is an endurance race compound and very beginner friendly. Many will suggest other pads which require a few degrees in molecular science to bed in, but PFCs you just install and go

You may also want to get a set of dedicated track wheels. Apex Arc8 in 10x25, 18" are a very popular option and allow you to have more track oriented tires

Safety is a big concern of mine. You can get the Scroth Quik Fit Pro 4 point harness which is fully reversible, works with the stock seat, is installed and uninstalled in 20 seconds and allows you to run a Hans device. Besides, the 4 point holds you infinitely better than the 3 point. It is also legal to run in BMWCCA and PCA events

For power, just get 'test pipes' and a tune which add 40hp
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      11-22-2016, 05:30 PM   #4
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If you get the Schroth quick fit pro for driver side, get it for passenger side as well. If not, I would bet the instructor won't instruct you. Read their tules.

By the time you do that and buy a Hans, you could buy the new FIA Simpson Hybrid system designed for a 3 point. You can wear that in any car. Look at that.

You will want more camber which is done with Vorshlag camber plates. As soon as you start cording the outside of the front tires is when you need them.

I've never heard of 3 car control schools before track but probably not a bad idea.
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      11-23-2016, 12:09 AM   #5
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I don't know if there are any track in Northern Washington that the BMW CCA may run. They have similar rules about instructor in the car until you get signed off. The CCA is a great way to start tracking. It maybe too restrictive as you get fast, but consider looking into them. Doing 3 car control clinics seems pretty excessive, IMO but if their rules.

You may want to get some Castrol SRF since most track events want at least a brake bleed before the event. As for brake pads, the OEM's are pretty decent if you take care of them on track. I've been in an fat M5 with an instructor who was flying around the track with stock brakes. I was socked.
A good combo pad is the Stoptech street sport pad. It's good on the street and pretty damn good on track as well. You just have to bed them in well. The Stoptech race pads are also very good once you're build up some speed and they cost a lot less than other track pads. I haven't had to re-bed the street pads after track events.
For tires the best bang for the buck IMO is the Nitto NT05. Cheap and they last a long time. Run them about 35psi hot. Having a set of track wheels/tire will save you money because street tires tend to shred after 2-3 days.
Keep the car stock for a few events before upgrade stuff.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      12-06-2016, 12:17 PM   #6
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1. brake fluid.

that is all.

until you get faster and faster.
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      12-06-2016, 02:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximusB View Post
I have a 2013 e92 zcp, the car is completely stock except for an exhaust that I got mainly for sound. My question are as I get more into this, other than oil, brake components and tires, what kind of added maintenance will I have to do? Is the car able to handle the added stress of occasional track driving? I don't foresee myself wanting more power out of the car, so the engine and drivetrain will most likely remain stock. Ultimately what do I need to do in order to have this car reliability be able to handle the occasional track driving and casual weekend driving?

The car is built for hard-driving, yes. Increase your budget for consumables like tires, brakes, and engine oil. Other than that, I don't think you'll need to worry about much else. Put your remaining funds into improving your technique, not upgrading the car. Once you have reached the car's limits, THEN you can start upgrading it.

How can you improve your technique? For one, go to more track days and take advantage of any expert advice the instructors or hardcore guys can give you. Have them ride with you, or ask if you can ride in their car. Don't be afraid to take some laps at 8/10ths so you can focus on specific trouble areas. Maybe even buy a camera to review your driving later and get some telemetry through apps/devices like Harry's Lap Timer. Also, consider attending a legitimate racing school and learning from actual professionals (I'm not talking about those stupid Groupon deals for "Drive a supercar for 10 minutes", I mean stuff like Bondurant and Skip Barber). Attending Bondurant was probably one of the most fun and useful things I've ever done.
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      12-06-2016, 02:56 PM   #8
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You'll have a blast tracking. Before you go into the financial fun (debt) of tracking. Jk jk. See if it is fit for you. As silly as that may sound you don't want to get harnesses, pads, tires, camber plates and then not enjoy your experience. I would start with safety, fluids and braking if you continue to track. As stated above, the PFC 08 is a great pad to use and isn't too pricey. Before I went into a cage and six points I used the schroth quick fit pros. I liked them a lot. Some instructors used the 3 point and others used the quick fits when in the car with me. Also stated above driver and passenger seats require equal restraint setups or tech will give you a fit.

But the biggest factor to use in what you should get for the track parts and car set up wise is get as much seat time as possible. This forum is filled with great advice from great drivers that are all different levels of experience. You'll learn quick what works and what doesn't. Welcome to the addiction and keep it fun
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      12-06-2016, 07:49 PM   #9
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Brake maintenance is a must.

I highly recommend the schroth quick fits (prefer the pro) especially with the leather seats. I have the cloth seats which aren't too bad but the leather is like a skating rink for your butt. You'll feel pretty beat up with those 3 points after a weekend.

Its pretty disconcerting to lock the 3pt belt in, you're all nice and snug and then lose the tension on the belt in a turn.
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      12-06-2016, 08:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Brake maintenance is a must.

I highly recommend the schroth quick fits (prefer the pro) especially with the leather seats. I have the cloth seats which aren't too bad but the leather is like a skating rink for your butt. You'll feel pretty beat up with those 3 points after a weekend.

Its pretty disconcerting to lock the 3pt belt in, you're all nice and snug and then lose the tension on the belt in a turn.
You cloth seat guys are so snobby :P
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      12-06-2016, 08:48 PM   #11
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I agree with doing a track event to see if you like it before purchasing big things. At my first event, all I did was add racing brake fluid.

After the event I knew I wanted to continue tracking, so I purchased helmet, HANS, harnesses, and PFC 08s – safety + brakes that inspire confidence. It's been going downhill since..
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      12-07-2016, 12:16 AM   #12
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You cloth seat guys are so snobby :P
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      12-10-2016, 10:18 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the advice so far. I don't think I'll get too much into tracking and was not planning modding the car for it right away. All I am looking for at the moment is just to take the car out on the track and in a safe environment to enjoy the car, since it is hard and stupid to do so on the road. So I just wanted to make sure the car in stock form is capable of handle it otherwise I'm better off spending some money upfront to make sure I won't damage the car. That's all
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      12-12-2016, 08:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximusB View Post
Thanks for all the advice so far. I don't think I'll get too much into tracking and was not planning modding the car for it right away. All I am looking for at the moment is just to take the car out on the track and in a safe environment to enjoy the car, since it is hard and stupid to do so on the road. So I just wanted to make sure the car in stock form is capable of handle it otherwise I'm better off spending some money upfront to make sure I won't damage the car. That's all

It's extremely capable in stock form. That's why it has such a stellar reputation and you see so many of them at track days. Go out and have some fun. Don't worry about the car, it'll be fine.
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      12-13-2016, 05:39 AM   #15
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in case you don't know already, get an old sock and zip tie it to your power steering reservoir. otherwise when it builds pressure and vents, it spits fluid all over your engine bay and smokes.
also, don't use your parking brake when you come in from a session, your rear rotors will be very hot an the pressure from the parking brake will distort the rear rotors and ruin them prematurely.
if the coordinator doesn't allow a cool-down lap, you need to consider it. keep an eye on the time. if you're doing 20 minute sessions and you're at the 18 minute mark and it takes you 1:30 to do a lap, do a cool down lap on the next lap. things can vary, don't overthink this.
have fun.
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      12-13-2016, 09:23 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
in case you don't know already, get an old sock and zip tie it to your power steering reservoir. otherwise when it builds pressure and vents, it spits fluid all over your engine bay and smokes.
I know this has happened to quite a few people but after 20 track days or so (some in 105 degree heat at Buttonwillow), it's never happened to me. I should probably be safe than sorry though and just put a sock on it.
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      12-13-2016, 10:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude357 View Post
I know this has happened to quite a few people but after 20 track days or so (some in 105 degree heat at Buttonwillow), it's never happened to me. I should probably be safe than sorry though and just put a sock on it.
If it hasn't happened yet, that just means you aren't pushing hard enough yet. It happens to EVERYONE.
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      12-13-2016, 01:28 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude357 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
in case you don't know already, get an old sock and zip tie it to your power steering reservoir. otherwise when it builds pressure and vents, it spits fluid all over your engine bay and smokes.
I know this has happened to quite a few people but after 20 track days or so (some in 105 degree heat at Buttonwillow), it's never happened to me. I should probably be safe than sorry though and just put a sock on it.
This happens so often I think sometimes people forget to mention it to the newcomers. Lol

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      12-13-2016, 07:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
don't use your parking brake when you come in from a session, your rear rotors will be very hot an the pressure from the parking brake will distort the rear rotors and ruin them prematurely.
You can put the car in gear to prevent rolling...I learned that last month in an embarrassing way.

Come back to paddock. Car rolls back when I stop at my spot. Instructor trying to talk to me while I'm thinking how the hell do I stop the car from rolling without using brake pedal and cooking the fluid. Set my parking brake as I quickly get out of car to put wheel chock under a tire. Instructor is like "WTF!?" Someone next to my car is like "WTF?!" Instructor tells me that putting the car in gear will do the same thing..... oh.

Yeah, don't do what I did lol.
It's funny bc I always put the car in gear when jacking it up to prevent rolling. Why it never came to me while I'm at the track, I'll never know.
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      12-13-2016, 07:15 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
also, don't use your parking brake when you come in from a session, your rear rotors will be very hot an the pressure from the parking brake will distort the rear rotors and ruin them prematurely.
The parking brake engages a shoe in the drum not the rotor surface. I still think it's a bad idea to use parking brake at end of session, but it's not likely that you will ruin the rotor
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      12-13-2016, 07:35 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong Sheng Han View Post
You can put the car in gear to prevent rolling...I learned that last month in an embarrassing way.

Come back to paddock. Car rolls back when I stop at my spot. Instructor trying to talk to me while I'm thinking how the hell do I stop the car from rolling without using brake pedal and cooking the fluid. Set my parking brake as I quickly get out of car to put wheel chock under a tire. Instructor is like "WTF!?" Someone next to my car is like "WTF?!" Instructor tells me that putting the car in gear will do the same thing..... oh.

Yeah, don't do what I did lol.
It's funny bc I always put the car in gear when jacking it up to prevent rolling. Why it never came to me while I'm at the track, I'll never know.
dct ftw. when i roll in to the paddock/garage to stop, i typically coast in really slow and gently tap the brakes to stop the car and then i get off them. i let the fan run for about ten seconds and double tap the ignition button to shut her down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderMoose View Post
The parking brake engages a shoe in the drum not the rotor surface. I still think it's a bad idea to use parking brake at end of session, but it's not likely that you will ruin the rotor
right, but it is hot enough to cause distortion if you set the brake and the assembly cools.
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      12-13-2016, 10:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
dct ftw. when i roll in to the paddock/garage to stop, i typically coast in really slow and gently tap the brakes to stop the car and then i get off them. i let the fan run for about ten seconds and double tap the ignition button to shut her down.
But lolauto cars are no fun to drive. Manuel FTW!
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