Stoptech ST-60 slotted rotor replacement

[dbyrd]

Where are you guys sourcing your replacement slotted rotors for the ST-60 kit?

[surlynkid]

Alex Noll at ABR

[dbyrd]

Originally Posted by surlynkid

Alex Noll at ABR

Thanks, Scott - I got a great deal from Trinity Autosport with no Texas tax.

[bigjae1976]

How many days did you get from your front rotors?

[dbyrd]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

How many days did you get from your front rotors?

24 days, but they should've lasted at least another 10. At COTA, I ran them to the backing plates and scored them near the center. The outside still has at least .5 - .9 mm, but I'm going ahead and changing them out.

This is the first time to change just the rotors using the original hat - it looks pretty straightforward. Anything that I should know re: this?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by dbyrd

This is the first time to change just the rotors using the original hat - it looks pretty straightforward. Anything that I should know re: this?

Just follow the directions. It is very easy.

For good pricing/customer service, try Dave @ Zeckhausen Racing.

[jakob66]

Originally Posted by dbyrd

24 days, but they should've lasted at least another 10. At COTA, I ran them to the backing plates and scored them near the center. The outside still has at least .5 - .9 mm, but I'm going ahead and changing them out.

This is the first time to change just the rotors using the original hat - it looks pretty straightforward. Anything that I should know re: this?

What pads are you using? What's the dimension on the thinnest section on your rotors? I now have 13 events (2 days per event) and I still have 40% left on the rotors (no street use). I use Cobalt Friction's XR1 and noticed -though insane brake power- less abrasive rotor use.

[surlynkid]

As said, just follow the directions. Make sure Belleville washers are the right direction. Torque is only about 6 ft-lb. wash rotors with soap and water and scotch brite pad first. Don't get left and right backwards.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by dbyrd

24 days, but they should've lasted at least another 10. At COTA, I ran them to the backing plates and scored them near the center. The outside still has at least .5 - .9 mm, but I'm going ahead and changing them out.

This is the first time to change just the rotors using the original hat - it looks pretty straightforward. Anything that I should know re: this?

Got it. I was about to call you an absolute maniac!

What surlynkid said. I believe ST specs green loctite. It comes with the replacement hardware kit and is otherwise impossible to find (for me at least). So I just used red...rotor discs are still glued on!

[dbyrd]

Originally Posted by jakob66

What pads are you using? What's the dimension on the thinnest section on your rotors? I now have 13 events (2 days per event) and I still have 40% left on the rotors (no street use). I use Cobalt Friction's XR1 and noticed -though insane brake power- less abrasive rotor use.

I've used two sets of Pagid Yellows/RS-29s, Stoptech SR34s and the last set was Carbotech XP12s (lasted just over 4 days even though I ran them down to the backing plate in 5). The Pagids lasted the longest at 7-8 days. I've also put about 25,000 daily miles using the Stoptech Street pad, but the pads still look new.

I wore a small groove (2 mm wide) near the center of the rotor where the overall rotor is down to 33mm. My understanding is that when the rotor gets down to 33mm, they're done. The rest of the rotor is between 33.6mm and 34.0mm.

I wish PFC still made the 08s for the ST-60 even though they run over $500. Several folks have recommended the Cobalt Friction XR1 so I think I'll start with that pad next.

[MasterP]

I cracked one of my slotted to the edge at COTA at the end of June.. I suspect I may have too much cooling.

I get my ST stuff from Zeckhausen.

[dbyrd]

Originally Posted by TrakBch

I cracked one of my slotted to the edge at COTA at the end of June.. I suspect I may have too much cooling.

I get my ST stuff from Zeckhausen.

Too much cooling?!

Hook me up with those older pads!

[surlynkid]

No such thing as too much cooling except on out lap. ST includes a tiny tube of the green loc tite with the hardware kit. Follow the directions. You install it after torquing and just let it wick into the threads.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by dbyrd

I've used two sets of Pagid Yellows/RS-29s, Stoptech SR34s and the last set was Carbotech XP12s (lasted just over 4 days even though I ran them down to the backing plate in 5). The Pagids lasted the longest at 7-8 days. I've also put about 25,000 daily miles using the Stoptech Street pad, but the pads still look new.

I wore a small groove (2 mm wide) near the center of the rotor where the overall rotor is down to 33mm. My understanding is that when the rotor gets down to 33mm, they're done. The rest of the rotor is between 33.6mm and 34.0mm.

I wish PFC still made the 08s for the ST-60 even though they run over $500. Several folks have recommended the Cobalt Friction XR1 so I think I'll start with that pad next.

FWIW, I had PFC08's all around on my 911 when I was a track newb. No bedding and/or light-initial-bedding aspect is fantastic and they were plenty of pad for a lightweight car. They also would last forever on such a car. Next car was an S4 and I went with Pagid RS-29's there. Absolutely loved the RS-29's but disliked having to drive 45 minutes from my house for bedding, just needed to be done though. Anyway, now back on PFC08's all around and while I like them, my personal opinion is that they aren't as aggressive as the RS-29's (wish I had gone RS-29 again). Nice to just pop them in and head to the track and I may try PFC11 fronts next but I also wouldn't mind going back to the RS-29's. I also never boiled fluid with the RS-29's and I have with the 08's (lots of variables there though).

Point of all this, if you like RS-29, just try them again, maybe with rear BBK now the wear/performance will be even better.

[MasterP]

Originally Posted by surlynkid

No such thing as too much cooling except on out lap. ST includes a tiny tube of the green loc tite with the hardware kit. Follow the directions. You install it after torquing and just let it wick into the threads.

I'd almost agree with you except I've seen the open wheel cars tape up part of their brake duct inlets to keep them from overcooling.

The engineer at stoptech hinted at the same thing since this occurred at COTA.

dbyrd , I'm waiting for the Car to get back from Austin this week and then I can get them to you.

[Richbot]

Blocking brake ducts on open wheel cars is a drag thing more than anything. Throwing more air into turbulent spinning wheels does not make car go fast

[4M]

+1 for Zeckhausen. Great service and knowledge base when you need it.

[bigjae1976]

Forgot to answer the question...

Amazon for rings.