02-26-2015, 03:53 AM | #1 |
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Shifteck 3" Downpipes. Install pics & Review
I had intentionally tried to keep my F80 stock, down to the orange reflectors. But I sold my GTR and Superlegerra so I began missing supercar speed. With more and more positive reviews of the JB4 and Downpipe combo with some great looking numbers I decided to go ahead and do it.
I had the opportunity to acquire a set of 3" Downpipes from Shifteck recently. Since I was going to be catless they also offered up an outstanding deal on a new JB4. The JB4 arrived within 3 business days, and the downpipes 1 day later from Shifteck. I did pay for these with my own money. I caught a link from Shifteck's FB page they were looking for someone to run a set at a discounted price. I liked the specs and the opportunity. I'm not sure what stage they are in so I am unable to share pricing. I only know they are planning to price them aggressively vs what's on the market already. Which I think is great I'm really tired of the early adopter price hike on top of the ///M Tax. I don't have a lot of technical information on them except 3" ID, and T-304 Stainless and TIG welded. Tonight we finally got an opportunity to install them. The work was done by my good friend Mike, who is an extremely talented BMW Tech. he enjoys working on the fun stuff more than the broken stuff so he jumped right on it. He also installed my JB4. I was taking pics along the way, but I cannot provide you any play by play DIY instructions as my main motive was to stay out of his way. I also don't do DIY's unless I'm turning the wrenches myself. I'll share what I was able to observe only. 1) The Downpipes arrived in a relatively large box with the contents packed neatly. Each pipe had a significant layer of bubble wrap to itself. No gaskets came with it. I did order new ones ahead of time. BMW P/N 18 30 7 851 168 Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr 2) Downpipes out of the package Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr 3) Removing the Downpipes (observing) Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr -All work on the downpipes was done underneath the vehicle. -We did have to wait for the stock Downpipes to cool. -Mike had an array of extensions, elbows, wobbles, hand tools, electric impact driver. I don't doubt being well equipped will make this job easier. -Removed the front Metal Shield/Brace (16mm bolts) -Removed center cover (Black Plastic, mostly 8 mm screws, 2-3 10mm plastic-ish nuts) -Removed Center Brace (13mm nuts, also shares with subframe braces) -Removed the exhaust system (Mostly 13MM bolts - the layout is very similar to the E92) -Removed Exhaust gaskets (We used new ones $28-ish retail, I paid a little less than $15 each. You'll need 2 pieces) My car has less than 3000 miles so the gaskets could have probably been reused. YMMV) -Mike commented that the S55 OEM Downpipes already have a built in alignment plate so you'll appreciate that if you've ever worked on a N54. -O2 Sensors disconnected. (They are now color coded, but Mike indexed them beforehand since we discovered the O2 sensors are now Blue for one, and Yellow for the other afterward. But you won't know which is which until they are disconnected.) -Using a jigsaw of extensions and elbows and other tools he loosened the Vbands on the Longer down pipe first. -A little jiggling and the first pipe came out easily - O2 sensor still affixed -Same process for the shorter Downpipe -He left the V bands on the car, marginally tightened just to keep them up there. I have no exhaust! LOL. It's actually a shame they have all those shields there. I was hoping to peek at the CFRP Driveshaft. Being underneath your F8X will also awaken you to how vulnerable the Oil cooler design was. Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr 3) Some comparison pics a little larger to get the details. The OEM inlet is quite large. Easily larger than 3," But the insides are PACKED with Catalyst material. The main piping is wider and with less taper. With the factory shielding in place, you the actual shape of the pipe can't be seen. Immediately you'll know that the Downpipes are much lighter. I could not find a scale in the shop, but the weight is at least half. The downpipes come with no heat shielding. There's quite a bit of OEM heat shielding in the Downpipe area along the chassis already. But exhaust wrap with safety wire is probably a good idea for the downpipes. We may revisit that when an exhaust system makes it's way onto the car. Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr 4)Reassembly pretty much the reverse of installation. -Shorter Downpipe was reinstalled first, but was left "loose" for easier repositioning. Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr -Longer Downpipe next, Also left loose. -The brace was put on next. This piece let you know if you had the Downpipes in the right position. Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr -Reconnect the O2 sensors. They are color coded, so making sure the right ones are connected should be easy. We did run the car briefly (20 seconds maybe) with open Downpipes. It sounds awful. Like a dump truck. It's not an elegant sound. I have it recorded, I may update this with a clip when I get the opportunity. Mike is perfectionist, so he really took his time aligning the downpipes and making sure the O2 sensor weren't in a position to make contact with any part of the chassis. 5) Rejoining the Exhaust. -Pretty straight forward, so I wont go into details. -Remember the gaskets. Mike didn't forget but he made me think he did for about 5 seconds. -Myself and another tech helped get the exhaust back on to the car. Getting the nuts back onto the muffler section first is a huge help. -everything was left modestly loose to ensure a the correct fit -We ran the car briefly before re-installing the shields so to make sure there were no leaks. -Reinstall the shields. Mike installed the Main shield/brace first, followed by the black under panel. Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr Untitled by rioyellows2k, on Flickr 6) Initial Impressions Fit and Finish are great. All the tabs and studs are exactly where they needed to be. The Vbands glided into place with ease. While the welds aren't "OMG Japanese Welding Porn" they look leak free and robust. They aren't ground down to hide their existence - I can appreciate an honest weld. I like that the Stainless is not polished and natural in appearance. So when they change color it won't be as gross and uneven. Installation according to Mike was easy. He said he could have done it about an hour faster if the stock shorter downpipe wasn't crazy hot and needed to cool (Which is when the JB4 was being installed). Sound. I hope to have some sound clips up in the next few days. But initially with the Stock exhaust: Valves closed - marginally and I mean minutely louder than stock on throttle. Cruising in "Comfort" setting sounds like stock - ZERO drone. Valves open, Sport/Sport + - Louder at WOT, still not obnoxious. This is likely the volume we were expecting. The tone overall in any mode is the same as stock, just louder. More bass in the Sport/Sport+ modes. It still sounds like a F8X, so it's still not the greatest sound. We'll just have to leave the noise up to the catbacks. I'm likely going to do an Akrapovic Non resonated center pipe, with the MPE rear section in pursuit of the lowest weight. Performance. I'm using JB4 Map 2 on 93. Two words : "GOOD. GOD." No traction in 1st, 2nd, and bottom and middle of 3rd. It really is too much torque for this car. I tried recording some brief runs but the shifts are so hard that I get thrown back and the video looks like I dropped the camera and caught it. I'll reattempt with a GoPro. I don't know how it would fare against my departed supercars because this car just won't hook up. I don't know if the JB4 has or will have the ability to remove the top speed limiter or not, but it's going to want to stretch it's legs past 169. Did some 60 mph 2nd gear to 120 runs. No traction out of second, car stepped out out of third. More tire is a must. BMS Map 2 advertises 49X WHP/50X WTQ. I believe it. It feels much torquier than my GTR, but the traction disadvantage is huge enough I'm not sure I could pick on a stock CBA GTR and get away with it with the stock speed limiter. The Sound at WOT is much more aggressive, but still within the same sound profile as stock - just more of it. Dyno session is in the future. I did not baseline. I figured there's so many stock baselines already. These may be the first Shifteck Downpipes so I want to do it right and get some numbers. I'll update this post as I'm able to. Updated 2/26/2015. It looks like these will be readily available in about 60 days, for around $700. Which sounds like an outstanding deal. Last edited by MasterP; 02-26-2015 at 03:10 PM.. |
02-26-2015, 05:45 AM | #2 |
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Thanks for sharing!
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02-26-2015, 06:27 AM | #3 |
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congrats! Looking forward to some vids on the sound. Do you have valve control or are you just using OEM function for valves? I believe Jb4 has the valve control as part of their unit but was just checking.
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02-26-2015, 07:28 AM | #6 |
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This helps a lot!
How long would you say this took? Glad to see no engine bay items needed to be removed. I hate removing the cowl parts, those clips never seem to want to go back as well as they were originally haha |
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02-26-2015, 07:41 AM | #7 |
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Sweet!
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02-26-2015, 07:44 AM | #8 |
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Great write up. This really makes me want downpipes.
Did you notice a difference in the amount of turbo spool you hear? I would think youre up an additional 10-20rwhp including the downpipes. |
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02-26-2015, 08:02 AM | #9 |
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02-26-2015, 08:32 AM | #11 |
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These look like clear ER knock offs, especially around the v-band. Shifteck copied ER's 435i downpipe and tried selling them as their own as well. Looks like they haven't learned.
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02-26-2015, 09:19 AM | #12 |
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These look the same as the gintanni ones, and the racewerks ones, and the akrapovic ones (minus the heat shielding), and the afe ones... Everyone's look the same.
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02-26-2015, 09:21 AM | #13 |
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Yep, and you wonder why some are 1200; when a company like this can put them out for probably what they sell the N55 ones, $250.
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02-26-2015, 09:41 AM | #14 |
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Umm, yeah. As others have said, there aren't too many shapes the downpipes can be in. The differences are in the quality of welds, the method of bending, etc... not the change in actual shape, since that is quite limited.
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02-26-2015, 09:54 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
I'm using OEM function. I'm not that familiar with all the controls of the JB4. I didn't get the cable yet so I don't want to mess with it too much. I'm familiar with the JBF CANflap function, but honestly doesn't really seem like something I'd mess with anyway. |
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02-26-2015, 10:05 AM | #16 | |
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We were in a BMW shop so plenty of new clips laying around. But my is fairly new so everything was pretty clean and none of the plastics are brittle yet. |
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02-26-2015, 10:08 AM | #17 | |
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I haven't dyno'd yet but my impressions on Map 2 are way more than that. |
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02-26-2015, 10:21 AM | #18 |
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LOL @ the "They look like...'
They're downpipes. There's not really a lot that can be done design wise. They have one less welded section than ER if we're going to nit pick. Plus coming from Owning a GTR where Every downpipe and mid pipe looks like everyone else's the thought of the Shifteck Downpipes looking like someone else's didn't even cross my mind. Hell, even the intakes were pretty much all the same. If someone can provide similar quality and performance for less dollars I would think we would be ecstatic. That leaves plenty of cushion to buy other overpriced parts that have no reason to be so expensive other than just to be expensive. |
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02-26-2015, 10:28 AM | #19 |
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Scott, very nice write up, I actually just joined the NTBC facebook page so saw your F80 on there . I've been debating performance mods on my F82 which is my DD, based on your comments looks like I'll wait and see since I was worried the torque was already too much for the tire setup and traction seems to be the big constraint for making use of the additional power.
So question on the DPs install will that pass your TX state inspection? |
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02-26-2015, 10:34 AM | #20 | |
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however if your not interested in having the valves open all the time or closed all the time then I agree with you a valve open and close option would not be necessary. PS when multi quoting click the + button on all the quotes you want to quote then press the quote button and it will multi quote
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02-26-2015, 10:39 AM | #21 |
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I debated modding as well, since output is really dependent on electronics. The power is fun, but really unusable around town. Mine is also my DD and my M1 is set to "Efficient,comfort,comfort" if that gives you an idea how I use it.
Based on what the Techs have said about the Vehicle's OBD2 readiness settings the JB4 won't trip anything. I have no CEL's now. Luckily there is a giant shield in place so you cannot see them and likely your shop won't either. |
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02-26-2015, 10:42 AM | #22 |
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