[fazman]

Please chime in on this thread if you are getting the idle shakes on your car and the only thing a dealership will offer is to reset adaptations and upgrade software... They won't do any real mechanic diagnosis of the issue because you have no codes nor will ever get a code for this issue:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...0#post15305630

If you are a dealership in NJ who would be willing to work on this issue of mine please PM me.

If you are a forum member, please leave a comment describing your idle shake issue and efforts made so far to fix it.

My issue is, after i start my car and the idle settles down to 600 rpm... My entire car shakes (steering wheel, seats, door panels, all passengers can notice it) also every 1 minute interval i will get a stumble/hiccup/misfire like hesitation while stationary at idle (Park/Neutral/Drive gear).

[d1saster]

How many miles?

Mine started to vibrate on idle at about 125K miles. I replaced spark plugs and ignition coils. No change. Changed the auto transmission fluid and filter (pan), serpentine belt, tensioner pulley and the vibrations become even more noticeable. I'm thinking it's either engine or transmission mounts (still on original mounts) since I have the very well known jerk at stop which doesn't go away when I disable Neutral Idle Control and hill assist.

[ezmaass]

Originally Posted by fazman

Please chime in on this thread if you are getting the idle shakes on your car and the only thing a dealership will offer is to reset adaptations and upgrade software... They won't do any real mechanic diagnosis of the issue because you have no codes nor will ever get a code for this issue:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...0#post15305630

If you are a dealership in NJ who would be willing to work on this issue of mine please PM me.

If you are a forum member, please leave a comment describing your idle shake issue and efforts made so far to fix it.

My issue is, after i start my car and the idle settles down to 600 rpm... My entire car shakes (steering wheel, seats, door panels, all passengers can notice it) also every 1 minute interval i will get a stumble/hiccup/misfire like hesitation while stationary at idle (Park/Neutral/Drive gear).

Dude, if your dealer won't look at that, you need to just take it to another dealer. I've had plenty of issues in the past that didn't result in codes being thrown, but if there are obvious abnormal symptoms, the dealer should be looking for a solution. That's plain old ridiculous. Take it somewhere else.

I can't begin to diagnose what's wrong with your car - could be a dozen different things, most of which you'd think would throw codes if there were actual misfires for instance - but this is what a shop is for.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by d1saster

How many miles?

Mine started to vibrate on idle at about 125K miles. I replaced spark plugs and ignition coils. No change. Changed the auto transmission fluid and filter (pan), serpentine belt, tensioner pulley and the vibrations become even more noticeable. I'm thinking it's either engine or transmission mounts (still on original mounts) since I have the very well known jerk at stop which doesn't go away when I disable Neutral Idle Control and hill assist.

Mines currently at almost 80k its been doing the shakes for a long while already.

Carbon blasting didn't fix it
New plugs didn't fix it
I think its coils or eccentric sensor.
My other SA said it could even be the DME?? Who knows lets see what the second shop says... I've already made an appt.

[WestTX335i]

Hello. My 2010 coupe started this at 44k. When the car is started it has a vibration perhaps not as extreme as mentioned by others but it is noticeable. I have another post going to get input when I noticed this one. Perhaps it is the same problem.

I was thinking the muffler butterfly is staying shut when it should be open. I have the PPK1 installed. I may try disconnecting this muffler control to see if it stops.

While on warranty I took the car to the dealer and they advised the pipe between the muffler and tip was defective and it was replaced. The problem is now less noticeable but still not normal. I am off of warranty and not sure what to do next.

Do you think we have similar issues?

Thanks

[Dkhan22]

Originally Posted by fazman

Mines currently at almost 80k its been doing the shakes for a long while already.

Carbon blasting didn't fix it
New plugs didn't fix it
I think its coils or eccentric sensor.
My other SA said it could even be the DME?? Who knows lets see what the second shop says... I've already made an appt.

Faz, are you sure its not injector related? Mine did the same before my injectors went out. No codes in the beginning, then BAM! misfires and bunch of codes.

[jeffro535]

As stated by others, it can be a myriad of things. Mine ultimately wound up being vanos solenoid related, though we went through a couple of HPFP's injectors, coils and new set of turbos to get there. While frustrated with the lack of technical expertise from the dealer, they never tried the "it's not throwing codes" cop out. Shop Foreman drove the car and said "yeah, that's not right." It will still do the occasional single misfire at idle with no load on it (it's a 6MT), but it's way better than before. Put a load on it (ac, lights, seat heat) and it's dead smooth.
My exhaust butterfly was jammed shut after they had "adjusted" it. I pulled and capped the vacuum line and pried the flap into the full open position. Made zero difference on the idle quality.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by Dkhan22

Faz, are you sure its not injector related? Mine did the same before my injectors went out. No codes in the beginning, then BAM! misfires and bunch of codes.

It could be anything... but unless a dealership is actually willing to turn a physical wrench on the car, I won't know? All they seem to want to do is OBD2 based (Very heart broken). It's not practical for me to run around to every dealership with the same issue and they all do the same initial diag and hand the keys back to me in the same exact state after the $50 deductible. It's cheaper to get an attorney to write a letter to BMW NA about it and let them take care of it (Or complain to the BBB if I want to do a cheaper route of the same effort). But considering my run around for such a common issue... I think this is worthy of a class action or recall for all N54 owners to 120k miles like the HPFP. After all, companies don't care about solving issues unless they are required to do it.

I also have wastegate rattle at start up and the dealerships still say, "seems fine, in spec, etc...". In my eyes if the CPO doesn't work for actual issues, then there is no value in the resale of any used BMW product since I can get a better service and resolution from an Indy mechanic.

What I have done on my own already
A) Carbon blasting has already been done on my car
B) DME has the latest software update (twice in the past couple months)
C) Adaptations have already been reset (twice in the past couple months)
D) New plugs already

1) Labor to tear down the car only requires the cowl removal and the motor beauty cover (20 minutes tops)
2) Remove/inspect Vanos solenoid x2 (2 screws and 2 press release clips, then slide out). If bad then clean with brake cleaner and swap the re-install location.. test, if not fixed then try step 3
3) 6 new plugs from www.autohausaz.com would be $70 (I've already done 2 sets of these with the shakes) test, if not fixed then try step 4
4) 6 new coils from www.autohausaz.com would be $240. Test, if not fixed then try step 5
5) 6 new injectors + de-couplers - tischer/ECStuning
6) O2 sensors??
7) Eccentric sensor??
8) DME coil drivers??

[cnguyen84]

Originally Posted by fazman

My issue is, after i start my car and the idle settles down to 600 rpm... My entire car shakes (steering wheel, seats, door panels, all passengers can notice it) also every 1 minute interval i will get a stumble/hiccup/misfire like hesitation while stationary at idle (Park/Neutral/Drive gear).

I have the same issue with the car "sputtering" or "shaking" at idle when I start my car. However, it only does this for about 10 seconds after starting and then goes back to normal. This is ONLY when I start the car. After that, driving the car is normal. Coming to a stop, the idle is normal and smooth. It is really weird.

Let me know if this is what you are experiencing. I cannot explain it either. But, I have 50 days left on my warranty so I am planning to monitor it for the next 30 days and then bring it into the dealer. I am sure the cannot and will not do anything since it seems to be hard to diagnose. Plus, they charge me $140 just to read the codes (even if no codes are found)... they only waive the $140 when I decide to fix the car IF they find something.

If you would like, I can post a video to compare whether it is the same "shaking" phenomenon or for others to witness it.

[GearRex]

Originally Posted by cnguyen84

I have the same issue with the car "sputtering" or "shaking" at idle when I start my car. However, it only does this for about 10 seconds after starting and then goes back to normal. This is ONLY when I start the car. After that, driving the car is normal. Coming to a stop, the idle is normal and smooth. It is really weird.

Let me know if this is what you are experiencing. I cannot explain it either. But, I have 50 days left on my warranty so I am planning to monitor it for the next 30 days and then bring it into the dealer. I am sure the cannot and will not do anything since it seems to be hard to diagnose. Plus, they charge me $140 just to read the codes (even if no codes are found)... they only waive the $140 when I decide to fix the car IF they find something.

If you would like, I can post a video to compare whether it is the same "shaking" phenomenon or for others to witness it.

These symptoms seem to indicate leaky injectors. Injectors leak fuel overnight causing the rough idle when cold.

They will eventually let go.

Until they do, it is unlikely you will get any error codes.

Check your plugs and see if they look abnormal in appearance.

[Sandman614]

Originally Posted by E93_Rzr

These symptoms seem to indicate leaky injectors. Injectors leak fuel overnight causing the rough idle when cold.

They will eventually let go.

Until they do, it is unlikely you will get any error codes.

Check your plugs and see if they look abnormal in appearance.

looks like I have some injectors to order....

just curious: what happens when an injector completely fails? I mean not just leaking, but a complete failure. Or is that not likely?

[GearRex]

Leaky injectors means they are not closing completely. They will eventually get stock open, or close (complete failure). Either way the car will misfire constantly because of the cylinder not generating an explosion.

By this point, car will go into limp mode to protect itself and you will have error codes.

Keep in mind the modern fuel injectors are highly precise and must meter fuel accurately for the motor to run smoothly. Anything that may prevent this function will cause you a headache, from dirty injectors, incorrect metering, to complete injector failure.

Right now sounds like you may have a slow injector leak overnight, that causes the car to run rough until the fuel excess is cleared out.

Can you smell fuel in the morning?

[fazman]

Originally Posted by cnguyen84

I have the same issue with the car "sputtering" or "shaking" at idle when I start my car. However, it only does this for about 10 seconds after starting and then goes back to normal. This is ONLY when I start the car. After that, driving the car is normal. Coming to a stop, the idle is normal and smooth. It is really weird.

Let me know if this is what you are experiencing. I cannot explain it either. But, I have 50 days left on my warranty so I am planning to monitor it for the next 30 days and then bring it into the dealer. I am sure the cannot and will not do anything since it seems to be hard to diagnose. Plus, they charge me $140 just to read the codes (even if no codes are found)... they only waive the $140 when I decide to fix the car IF they find something.

If you would like, I can post a video to compare whether it is the same "shaking" phenomenon or for others to witness it.

Mine is pretty much all the time when i'm at idle. Cold start/warm start... Driving a short distance or driven for an hour, park/neutral/drive gear, etc... Its a constant shake at idle. You feel the vibration from all seats, steering wheel, and when touching the door panels. Happens year round, sometimes its a little better in summer months. I've had this issue for about 1.5 years and 30k miles and over 2 sets of plugs and before/after carbon blasting.

[GearRex]

I recommend to everyone experiencing misfiring issues to read this sticky in its entirety. It offers fundamental troubleshooting techniques for engine misfiring. While the thread is directed to members with a tune, tunes simple worsen the symptoms, so in general they are applicable to all.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631829

[tkong]

And I thought I was alone. Ive been to the dealership 3 times already and they said the same thing. No codes and we can't recreate the problem so we can't do anything. I got fed up and I'm taking it to an Indy mechanics this week even though I'm under warranty still. I rarely turn on the ac nowadays because a lot of times the engine starts making loud whirring noises under the extra load.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by E93_Rzr

I recommend to everyone experiencing misfiring issues to read this sticky in its entirety. It offers fundamental troubleshooting techniques for engine misfiring. While the thread is directed to members with a tune, tunes simple worsen the symptoms, so in general they are applicable to all.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631829

My issue is on bone stock ride

[fazman]

Originally Posted by tkong

And I thought I was alone. Ive been to the dealership 3 times already and they said the same thing. No codes and we can't recreate the problem so we can't do anything. I got fed up and I'm taking it to an Indy mechanics this week even though I'm under warranty still. I rarely turn on the ac nowadays because a lot of times the engine starts making loud whirring noises under the extra load.

Well if u find the answer, you can go back and sue BMW NA for not allowing the correct diag to resolve this common issue and i can use my attorney network to do a class action for everyone. I'm going to let one last dealership take a crack at it. If i get the same non-sense of no fix... Then its up to the attorneys vs bmw na for all e9x owners who get any kind of shake at idle.

[frankthetoad]

I started having this exact same problem this morning, but it continued after I'd been driving for 30 minutes. At idle, RPMs would drop to 600 and I actually stalled out twice.

Opened the hood when I got to work and noticed the duct going from the airbox to the throttle body was very loose. So loose that I think there's a gap at the bottom. I'm sure this is a result of my recent air filter cleaning/oiling and pulling the duct loose from the throttle body.

EDIT: After properly seating the hose to the throttle body, all is well.

[KM79]

Same issue with idle jerks but had only occurred since changing the spark plugs.Thought was a bad plug/badly gapped but rechecked and all ok.A reset of adaptions worked but had come back.Apparently this is a known issue with no fix so far?

[E92 M Sport]

Originally Posted by fazman

Well if u find the answer, you can go back and sue BMW NA for not allowing the correct diag to resolve this common issue and i can use my attorney network to do a class action for everyone. I'm going to let one last dealership take a crack at it. If i get the same non-sense of no fix... Then its up to the attorneys vs bmw na for all e9x owners who get any kind of shake at idle.

Try Paul Miller in Wayne. My car was idling rough. They took the time to diagnose and change plugs, and injectors before I ran out of regular warranty. They kept it for 3 days (2 cold starts) to be sure it was fixed. I was satisfied. Pm if you need more info. Good luck!

[fazman]

Originally Posted by E92 M Sport

Try Paul Miller in Wayne. My car was idling rough. They took the time to diagnose and change plugs, and injectors before I ran out of regular warranty. They kept it for 3 days (2 cold starts) to be sure it was fixed. I was satisfied. Pm if you need more info. Good luck!

I tried Edison and then Paul Miller and then back to Edison... so far no dice. They all say "Yup... we feel the shakes but nothing we can do". Maybe you can PM me the details of who your SA is and who the tech was and maybe put me in contact with them. I would be willing to work with them on it again. I'm like 100% positive it's the injectors. I also have a leaking OFHG and wastegate rattle. So if they wanna clean all that up in one go... I'm sure they would make a nice SA commission from all that warranty work.

[oneup335]

Check your injectors, mine did that then one day it shook real hard then a check engine light came on. Took it in and they had to replace all the injectors. My car is at 45k