[Keyser Soze]

I just bought a 2011 335i and the Idrive controller is pretty worn out, "clicky" and "loose" especially compared to the controller on my 2013 F10. I assume this is not normal operation.

Although a replacement is only $225 it appears that it isn't a simple swap, and some DEALER coding is required for some reason, correct?

*search only found threads about 2007-2008 idrive replacements*

[DouggyB]

The installation of the part is very easy, but yes, coding is necessary. It doesn’t have to be done at a dealer. I know for a fact the Auto Logic can code it. If done with ISTA-P, it will most likely require an update of all vehicle’s SW. I have seen quite of a few E9x’s take over 9 hrs to program recently, so if you go that route, prepare in advance to leave it over night. As always with programming, any number of things can go wrong while programming. Don’t compare an E car to an F car, lots changed with Boardnet 2020. Even if the items look similar in appearance, operation has most likely changed due to bus changes.

[whats77inaname]

Originally Posted by DouggyB

The installation of the part is very easy, but yes, coding is necessary. It doesn’t have to be done at a dealer. I know for a fact the Auto Logic can code it. If done with ISTA-P, it will most likely require an update of all vehicle’s SW. I have seen quite of a few E9x’s take over 9 hrs to program recently, so if you go that route, prepare in advance to leave it over night. As always with programming, any number of things can go wrong while programming. Don’t compare an E car to an F car, lots changed with Boardnet 2020. Even if the items look similar in appearance, operation has most likely changed due to bus changes.

I replaced my 2008 CCC iDrive controller w/a 2010 CIC iDrive controller, and given that I needed *no* programming, I don't see how you can tell this man that he needs programming moving to/from the *exact* same part that is currently on his car.

[Keyser Soze]

Originally Posted by DouggyB

Don’t compare an E car to an F car, lots changed with Boardnet 2020. Even if the items look similar in appearance, operation has most likely changed due to bus changes.

Thanks. I'm really referring to the click and feel of the controller. The car went in service in April 2012 so its barely seen 18 months of use and it feels a bit beat up and loose. Other E90's I've driven were better so it's definitely been worn out by the PO, who I've determined to be a young latina who drove between Danville, Oakland and SF a lot (based on stored Nav, Phone and radio station settings.)

I might just call a dealer and see what they have to say (besides that it takes 5 days and $10,000)

[DouggyB]

Originally Posted by whats77inaname

I replaced my 2008 CCC iDrive controller w/a 2010 CIC iDrive controller, and given that I needed *no* programming, I don't see how you can tell this man that he needs programming moving to/from the *exact* same part that is currently on his car.

That’s awesome man, glad that worked out. Coding & programming are two very different things. There are several different ways to replace components. The way I told him is the correct way. The iDrive controller for an LCI E9xhas been superseded 3 times, so despite appearance, things have changed. Although it may not be necessary to code or program a module on the any of the bus systems, I always recommend having everything on the same version number & parts installed on a vehicle to be coded for that vehicle.

whats77inaname, my bad I should not have said "necessary." Seems nothing should be an absolute these days.

[Keyser Soze]

Originally Posted by DouggyB

That’s awesome man, glad that worked out. Coding & programming are two very different things. There are several different ways to replace components. The way I told him is the correct way. The iDrive controller for an LCI E9xhas been superseded 3 times, so despite appearance, things have changed. Although it may not be necessary to code or program a module on the any of the bus systems, I always recommend having everything on the same version number & parts installed on a vehicle to be coded for that vehicle.

Being that mine is a Sept 19, 2011 production (vin E578807) at the very end of the E90's production I am hoping what I see on GetBMWparts would work.

Jason from Tischer (GetBMWparts) replied that it's a direct swap no dealer needed for a late model 2011.

[DouggyB]

Originally Posted by Keyser Soze

Being that mine is a Sept 19, 2011 production (vin E578807) at the very end of the E90's production I am hoping what I see on GetBMWparts would work.

Jason from Tischer (GetBMWparts) replied that it's a direct swap no dealer needed for a late model 2011.

If the supplier says it will work then awesome! If you install it and it's not working, try coding it before returning it