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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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e92 335i heating problem.advice neeeded.really stuck!
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11-09-2012, 07:22 AM | #1 |
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e92 335i heating problem.advice neeeded.really stuck!
-had my car on a dis and i have no fault code
-ive had the coolant flushed out, changed, had the pipes from the core checked they are hot,had it bleeded with those vacuum tool things - changed the thermostat even though it wasnt faulty and had no codes for it. i read most of the temp sensors through the dis computer and they showed no faults and even moved up and down temps accordingly when i was adjusting the variables my car was fine prior to running low with water from a small leak when the heaters went cold which is leading to believe it cant possibly be anything electrical? my heaters have gone from blowing no hot air to blowing hot air for 25 seconds if i leave em off for about 20mins at a time with the car running upto temp ive been advised to: -change blower/resistor pack as it regulates temperature? i thought it only controls the fan speed? -change the controls on the dash? i KNOW they have an internal temp sensor.everything else works fine, the heaters switch around, ac works, auto button -possible fins on the water pump are broken? (not pushing the water around? theory doesnt make sense to me) -partially blocked core? ...why would it let heat out for 25-30secs? and why would the pipes on the core be pretty hot..both of them (minus heat soak you can pretty much feel the hot water inside the pipes) -bleed the car with the front end raised? im pretty sure the heater stopped coming out when water went low, i thought id add water and it should be ok ok it wasnt! then i had it flushed/bleeded with the vacuum pump tool from 1 garage, and had another garage try bleed it but they said it was fine. i really dont know what the hell it could be....as no fault codes!! ..is it safe to assume that means electrics are ok?? tied in with the fact that low water is what seems to have caused the heat to stop working in the first place i dont want to spend lots of money on things that are not even gonna fix the damn problem. id like to think garages would be able to use abit of logic as opposed to just guessing things but thats not how it works sadly! lol. any advice please? |
11-09-2012, 11:30 AM | #4 |
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hi thanks for the input.....do you guys care to elaborate on why you think its the water pump?
for the record the car doesnt over heat at all, and no codes showing any connection problems with the pump, i even initated it to bleed and could hear it cycling, i could try it again with the cap open to see if the water is circulating? however i still dont see why if it failed id be only getting heat for 30secs at a time??...if it wasnt circulating the hot water would stay hot and give me heat/over heated engine... ?? |
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11-09-2012, 12:14 PM | #5 |
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Whatever you do, when testing, don't just go opening the coolant cap when the car is warmed up since the coolant system will have a LOT of pressure. Saw a guy pull the cap off, only to get burned 2nd degree burns on one hand all the way up to his elbow. Hot steam to the hand or arm... no thanks. Be careful.
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