Battery Problems

Kafer · 02-04-2011, 11:22 AM

Hi everyone... I've been having issues with my battery running low at times. It started around October when the temperature started to drop. First my welcome lights stopped working (I didn't know this at the time, but they become disabled when the battery voltage drops below a certain point). Then I got a battery warning light (CCID-415). Then the heater fan would cut out intermittantly.

I took it to the dealer and they charged up the battery overnight and sent me on my way. They advised me that it's short trips that cause the battery to discharge, however I drive close to 60km (37mi) per day! I would have thought this is more than enough driving to recharge the battery!

They advised me the only solution is to buy a BMW trickle charger for $150and plug the car in every night.

Are they correct in that my driving is not enough to recharge the battery or is my battery or possibly charging system defective? I've read a lot about the battery registation process... perhaps the battery was not registered properly and the charging system isn't throwing enough juice into it?

Rondon3 · 02-04-2011, 11:39 AM

get a new battery

Rondon3 · 02-04-2011, 11:39 AM

if your still coverd under warranty get a new battery

fdriller9 · 02-04-2011, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rondon3

get a new battery

A '11 model should not need a new battery.

OP, it sounds like something is draining your battery while the car is off. Have you ever had problems cranking, first of the day?

Chriztofor · 02-04-2011, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kafer

Hi everyone... I've been having issues with my battery running low at times. It started around October when the temperature started to drop. First my welcome lights stopped working (I didn't know this at the time, but they become disabled when the battery voltage drops below a certain point). Then I got a battery warning light (CCID-415). Then the heater fan would cut out intermittantly.

I took it to the dealer and they charged up the battery overnight and sent me on my way. They advised me that it's short trips that cause the battery to discharge, however I drive close to 60km (37mi) per day! I would have thought this is more than enough driving to recharge the battery!

They advised me the only solution is to buy a BMW trickle charger for $150and plug the car in every night.

Are they correct in that my driving is not enough to recharge the battery or is my battery or possibly charging system defective? I've read a lot about the battery registation process... perhaps the battery was not registered properly and the charging system isn't throwing enough juice into it?

A 2011 BMW and they told you that you need to buy a BMW trickle charger.

Go to the parts department and buy the trickle charger and when they ask for money pull your pants down and tell them that the only way they can get it is if they tug on your di%$ 100x. When they look at you in a freaked out way, tell them that is EXACTLY how you feel.

GO TO A DIFFERENT DEALER.

syl2us · 02-04-2011, 12:19 PM

I have very similar problem OP, but I am in an 06. My heater fan cuts out intermittently, the starter grinds on cold starts due to low voltage (according to dealer and its not the starter itself) and other very random things happen, occasionally get the battery symbol on cluster...

I took mine in for it, dealer charged it up said short trips may cause incomplete charges blah blah... after they charged it, the starter wouldn't grind but now a couple weeks after I am back to it... Out of warranty, I asked how much to replace the battery... he responded around $400, I almost smacked him in the mouth. Figured I would go buy a battery and plop it in...but apparently there is a registration process that needs to be done when replacing battery, you can DIY but a tool (bavarian tech scanner) is require which runs about $300. What a PIA for a battery... I also drive around 40-50 miles per day and thought that was more than enough.

chowser51 · 02-04-2011, 01:14 PM

check with local independent BMW shops. i found a local place by me that only chargers $235+tax for a new battery and registration. i am trying to make it through this winter, i did pick up the bmw trickle charger for $66. seems to be helping a little.

but you're in a 2011. did you hook up any extras? like a radar/laser detector? something that might be on while your car is off?

we have the same issue in our patrol cars, something hooked up isn't turning off and is draining the battery.

Hey Ant · 02-04-2011, 01:25 PM

+1 on getting a new battery since your car is still under warranty.

My car is a 2008, with original battery still equipped and I believe the life expectancy on batteries could last up to 3-5 years without any modifications made to it. I recently added a sub and amp to my factory battery and drained my car battery completely. Car would not activate when I'm near it, all electrical systems were dead until I removed the sound system and jump started my car. Car ran fine for a while until it intermittently shuts off while driving. From time to time, I wake up and hop in my car, I notice all my presets have been reset because of the low voltage on the battery. Drove the car for a while without the sound system, so my alternator can charge up my battery. Ever since then, my battery is still great, but not good for a sound system.

In your case, your car is brand new, and there could power being drawn from somewhere else when your car is shut off.

Common case would be:
1. loose wires
2. A short
3. Sound system
4. Faulty wiring from manufacture
5. Leaving the extra set of key fob inside the car 24hours

968tomr · 02-04-2011, 01:46 PM

I see that you drive 37 miles a day, does this usually happen in two trips of 18 miles, or 3 trips, or more.

If your 37 miles includes many short trips a charger may be the answer, if it is a few longer trips I would suggest talking to your service manager about this, as it is a problem with your car that should be tracked down.

-Tom

Darius · 02-04-2011, 02:12 PM

It's commonly thought,since you start the engine,you should ride the car for around 15minutes with more than 1500 rpm to charge the battery to the point before firing up the car.If you drive all 37miles in one go,then you should check either battery or charging system,including generator (alternator).

328skidpad · 02-04-2011, 02:22 PM

Assuming you have I Drive,

I Drive utilizes a lot of power. My SA who is a very intelligent and experienced (his best friend is the master tech at BMW) said that it takes about 30-40 minutes of driving to just break even when the stereo, heater, i Drive is running.

I am always very critical about dealerships and their workers but my SA is definitely not a dummy and or would not try to pull any marketing bs with me...

Trickle charges can be found much cheaper online...

good luck...

fdriller9 · 02-04-2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by syl2us

I have very similar problem OP, but I am in an 06. My heater fan cuts out intermittently, the starter grinds on cold starts due to low voltage (according to dealer and its not the starter itself) and other very random things happen, occasionally get the battery symbol on cluster...

I took mine in for it, dealer charged it up said short trips may cause incomplete charges blah blah... after they charged it, the starter wouldn't grind but now a couple weeks after I am back to it... Out of warranty, I asked how much to replace the battery... he responded around $400, I almost smacked him in the mouth. Figured I would go buy a battery and plop it in...but apparently there is a registration process that needs to be done when replacing battery, you can DIY but a tool (bavarian tech scanner) is require which runs about $300. What a PIA for a battery... I also drive around 40-50 miles per day and thought that was more than enough.

If you're driving more than 20 miles per day...that should be enough to MAINTAIN the battery, not fully charge it.

Your problem is the battery it self....many '06 and early '07 model owners are having to replace their batteries about now including me. You can get an aftermarket battery but you must grab one with the same CCA and Ah ratings. Also for your car, you must also make sure you get a regular lead acid battery, not AGM.

Also for those who drive short distances, AGMs are recommended. I think this is because an AGM is a dry cell battery and when it discharges, the plates don't corrode or don't corrode as quickly as a traditional lead acid. So you can deep cycle an AGM without lose of capacity.

If you decide to retrofit an AGM, you'll need to program, then register your battery. Programming and registration are 2 different processes.

Kafer · 02-04-2011, 02:29 PM

Good question, but it's 37mi over two trips so 18mi each way.

syl2us - we may have the same problem, however my car is roughly 6 months old! The battery is brand new!

I checked my service receipt and all they did was charge it up. They didn't check if anything was draining the battery when the car is off. I found a list of CCID error codes and CCID-415 states "increased battery discharge when car is stationary" so something must be sucking power after the car is shut off. I'll try and convince them to keep it overnight to check it out.

fdriller9 · 02-04-2011, 02:31 PM

Someone had a problem with the trunk latch drawing power while the car was off...you should look into that.

2kaccordocoupe · 02-04-2011, 02:46 PM

It's dealer BS - I drive 7k a year, sometimes my car wont get started for weeks or even a month. My battery is fine, has never been hooked up to a battery charger/tender. You have a defective battery that needs replacing, warranty that.

syl2us · 02-04-2011, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kafer

Good question, but it's 37mi over two trips so 18mi each way.

syl2us - we may have the same problem, however my car is roughly 6 months old! The battery is brand new!

I checked my service receipt and all they did was charge it up. They didn't check if anything was draining the battery when the car is off. I found a list of CCID error codes and CCID-415 states "increased battery discharge when car is stationary" so something must be sucking power after the car is shut off. I'll try and convince them to keep it overnight to check it out.

Ah didn't notice how new your car was, I would definitely take it back for a secondary check-up. Good luck and post your findings.

F104 · 02-04-2011, 03:11 PM

check your current draw wile car is in sleep mode. Should be 25 milli-Amp or less, 40 at the very worst. If within spec it's your driving pattern.

As the car wakes up when you do about anything, I did it by rolling down windows, open hood, open trunk, remove trunk light, hook up battery tender under the hood, wait 30+ minutes, disconnect battery (so now power is from battery tender), hook up multimeter between disconnected negative and battery. Then disconnect battery tender and see what the current draw is. If within spec it's your driving pattern.

chowser51 · 02-04-2011, 04:10 PM

My problem is on work days, I only drive 26 miles. 13 each way. park the car in the cold for 12+ hours, start it up (barely) and drive the 13 miles home, takes about 21 minutes. With the heater, defrost, seats, radio running. so i just stick it on the battery tender once a week now. eventually, i'll spring for a new battery, it is over 5 years old. last two cars i owned, i had to replace the batteries in 4-5 years, so that's normal for me.

they should just put agm batteries in all their cars if the short driving patterns are killing the batteries. wife's buick never had this problem.

another thing to check is to make sure nothing is pressing on your keys while in range of the car.

John 070 · 02-04-2011, 05:41 PM

What I've found with BMW is you can't get something fixed on the 1st try, if it involves parts and labor under warranty. The dealership is always trained to avoid costs. You pull in without a warranty, you bet they start replacing things left and right.

Anyhow, much as it's not ideal, bring the car back next week, make an appt. the same day, bring it back 2 wks. later. By the 4th appt. for the same thing, they start replacing things or open a PUMA. 4 seems to be magical.

Should a 2k11 have a problem? No. They will fix it if you keep going back. g/l

John 070 · 02-04-2011, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chowser51

My problem is on work days, I only drive 26 miles. 13 each way. park the car in the cold for 12+ hours, start it up (barely) and drive the 13 miles home, takes about 21 minutes. With the heater, defrost, seats, radio running. so i just stick it on the battery tender once a week now. eventually, i'll spring for a new battery, it is over 5 years old. last two cars i owned, i had to replace the batteries in 4-5 years, so that's normal for me.

they should just put agm batteries in all their cars if the short driving patterns are killing the batteries. wife's buick never had this problem.

another thing to check is to make sure nothing is pressing on your keys while in range of the car.

The dumb a** SA told me the same thing when my car stalled repeatedly on the expressway. Claimed I didn't drive it enough as I had 15k on the odo after 3 1/2 yrs. F that stupid answer--he then told me on the next visit that the fob (comfort access) needs to be driven with it in the dash or what I experienced would happen. Dumb a**. By the 4th visit it was PUMA time.

orionredwing · 02-09-2011, 11:45 PM

I only drive 30 mi to work roundtrip each day and my battery is fine. 4 yr 2 mo, 68K miles.

I've been monitoring the voltage and it's down to 12.2V so I just ordered a CTEK 3300 battery charger/tender from Amazon to see if my battery is really on its last legs, or low due to the short commute. I also accidentally resetted the battery adaptation, so it may be undercharging? I forget if new batteries charge at a higher or lower voltage. I assume lower.

http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-Multi-Sma...7316572&sr=8-1

ENINTY · 02-10-2011, 05:33 AM

Does anybody think it is just a plain ole' defective battery issue. They make millions a batteries a year, it's possible that a few are defective from the get go. Go tell the dealer you want a new battery under warranty. 37 miles a day is plenty to keep a battery charged. I have a 12-year old F150 with the original battery still in it. I maybe drive the truck 40 -60 miles on the weekend and it sits the rest of the time, and the battery is still working fine. I thnk you just have a bad battery, simple as that.

02-04-2011, 11:22 AM	#1
Kafer Enlisted Member 11 Rep 47 Posts Drives: 128i Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Ottawa, Ontario iTrader: (0)	Battery Problems Hi everyone... I've been having issues with my battery running low at times. It started around October when the temperature started to drop. First my welcome lights stopped working (I didn't know this at the time, but they become disabled when the battery voltage drops below a certain point). Then I got a battery warning light (CCID-415). Then the heater fan would cut out intermittantly. I took it to the dealer and they charged up the battery overnight and sent me on my way. They advised me that it's short trips that cause the battery to discharge, however I drive close to 60km (37mi) per day! I would have thought this is more than enough driving to recharge the battery! They advised me the only solution is to buy a BMW trickle charger for $150and plug the car in every night. Are they correct in that my driving is not enough to recharge the battery or is my battery or possibly charging system defective? I've read a lot about the battery registation process... perhaps the battery was not registered properly and the charging system isn't throwing enough juice into it?
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02-04-2011, 11:39 AM	#2
Rondon3 Private 7 Rep 78 Posts Drives: 2008 Bmw 328i & 2011 335i mspo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New York Brooklyn iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 BMW 328i [0.00]	get a new battery
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02-04-2011, 11:39 AM	#3
Rondon3 Private 7 Rep 78 Posts Drives: 2008 Bmw 328i & 2011 335i mspo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New York Brooklyn iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 BMW 328i [0.00]	if your still coverd under warranty get a new battery
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02-04-2011, 12:19 PM	#6
syl2us Second Lieutenant 29 Rep 262 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: SoCal iTrader: (2)	I have very similar problem OP, but I am in an 06. My heater fan cuts out intermittently, the starter grinds on cold starts due to low voltage (according to dealer and its not the starter itself) and other very random things happen, occasionally get the battery symbol on cluster... I took mine in for it, dealer charged it up said short trips may cause incomplete charges blah blah... after they charged it, the starter wouldn't grind but now a couple weeks after I am back to it... Out of warranty, I asked how much to replace the battery... he responded around $400, I almost smacked him in the mouth. Figured I would go buy a battery and plop it in...but apparently there is a registration process that needs to be done when replacing battery, you can DIY but a tool (bavarian tech scanner) is require which runs about $300. What a PIA for a battery... I also drive around 40-50 miles per day and thought that was more than enough. __________________
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02-04-2011, 01:14 PM	#7
chowser51 Colonel 2025 Rep 2,807 Posts Drives: F33 430 and F39 M35i Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cleveland, OH iTrader: (3) Garage List 2018 BMW 430i xDrive [0.00]	check with local independent BMW shops. i found a local place by me that only chargers $235+tax for a new battery and registration. i am trying to make it through this winter, i did pick up the bmw trickle charger for $66. seems to be helping a little. but you're in a 2011. did you hook up any extras? like a radar/laser detector? something that might be on while your car is off? we have the same issue in our patrol cars, something hooked up isn't turning off and is draining the battery.
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02-04-2011, 01:25 PM	#8
Hey Ant Colonel 143 Rep 2,284 Posts Drives: E90 M3 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 818 Los Angeles iTrader: (18)	+1 on getting a new battery since your car is still under warranty. My car is a 2008, with original battery still equipped and I believe the life expectancy on batteries could last up to 3-5 years without any modifications made to it. I recently added a sub and amp to my factory battery and drained my car battery completely. Car would not activate when I'm near it, all electrical systems were dead until I removed the sound system and jump started my car. Car ran fine for a while until it intermittently shuts off while driving. From time to time, I wake up and hop in my car, I notice all my presets have been reset because of the low voltage on the battery. Drove the car for a while without the sound system, so my alternator can charge up my battery. Ever since then, my battery is still great, but not good for a sound system. In your case, your car is brand new, and there could power being drawn from somewhere else when your car is shut off. Common case would be: 1. loose wires 2. A short 3. Sound system 4. Faulty wiring from manufacture 5. Leaving the extra set of key fob inside the car 24hours
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02-04-2011, 01:46 PM	#9
968tomr Private First Class 4 Rep 160 Posts Drives: 2007 E92 335i Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: US:IN iTrader: (0)	I am curious about your mileage... I see that you drive 37 miles a day, does this usually happen in two trips of 18 miles, or 3 trips, or more. If your 37 miles includes many short trips a charger may be the answer, if it is a few longer trips I would suggest talking to your service manager about this, as it is a problem with your car that should be tracked down. -Tom
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02-04-2011, 02:12 PM	#10
Darius New Member 0 Rep 16 Posts Drives: E90 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Lithuania iTrader: (0)	It's commonly thought,since you start the engine,you should ride the car for around 15minutes with more than 1500 rpm to charge the battery to the point before firing up the car.If you drive all 37miles in one go,then you should check either battery or charging system,including generator (alternator).
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02-04-2011, 02:22 PM	#11
328skidpad Lieutenant 49 Rep 494 Posts Drives: 328xi e350 Z4M X3 M40 Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Princeton NJ iTrader: (0)	Assuming you have I Drive, I Drive utilizes a lot of power. My SA who is a very intelligent and experienced (his best friend is the master tech at BMW) said that it takes about 30-40 minutes of driving to just break even when the stereo, heater, i Drive is running. I am always very critical about dealerships and their workers but my SA is definitely not a dummy and or would not try to pull any marketing bs with me... Trickle charges can be found much cheaper online... good luck...
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02-04-2011, 02:29 PM	#13
Kafer Enlisted Member 11 Rep 47 Posts Drives: 128i Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Ottawa, Ontario iTrader: (0)	Good question, but it's 37mi over two trips so 18mi each way. syl2us - we may have the same problem, however my car is roughly 6 months old! The battery is brand new! I checked my service receipt and all they did was charge it up. They didn't check if anything was draining the battery when the car is off. I found a list of CCID error codes and CCID-415 states "increased battery discharge when car is stationary" so something must be sucking power after the car is shut off. I'll try and convince them to keep it overnight to check it out.
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02-04-2011, 02:31 PM	#14
fdriller9 Banned 253 Rep 7,089 Posts Drives: '06 AW 330xi Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North Jersey/Philly/NYC iTrader: (4) Garage List 2006 330xi [6.44]	Someone had a problem with the trunk latch drawing power while the car was off...you should look into that.
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02-04-2011, 02:46 PM	#15
2kaccordocoupe Brigadier General 1274 Rep 4,703 Posts Drives: Former ///M Driver Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: The 6ix iTrader: (2)	It's dealer BS - I drive 7k a year, sometimes my car wont get started for weeks or even a month. My battery is fine, has never been hooked up to a battery charger/tender. You have a defective battery that needs replacing, warranty that.
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02-04-2011, 03:11 PM	#17
F104 Captain 19 Rep 732 Posts Drives: E92 320D M-sport Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: belgium iTrader: (0)	check your current draw wile car is in sleep mode. Should be 25 milli-Amp or less, 40 at the very worst. If within spec it's your driving pattern. As the car wakes up when you do about anything, I did it by rolling down windows, open hood, open trunk, remove trunk light, hook up battery tender under the hood, wait 30+ minutes, disconnect battery (so now power is from battery tender), hook up multimeter between disconnected negative and battery. Then disconnect battery tender and see what the current draw is. If within spec it's your driving pattern.
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02-04-2011, 04:10 PM	#18
chowser51 Colonel 2025 Rep 2,807 Posts Drives: F33 430 and F39 M35i Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cleveland, OH iTrader: (3) Garage List 2018 BMW 430i xDrive [0.00]	My problem is on work days, I only drive 26 miles. 13 each way. park the car in the cold for 12+ hours, start it up (barely) and drive the 13 miles home, takes about 21 minutes. With the heater, defrost, seats, radio running. so i just stick it on the battery tender once a week now. eventually, i'll spring for a new battery, it is over 5 years old. last two cars i owned, i had to replace the batteries in 4-5 years, so that's normal for me. they should just put agm batteries in all their cars if the short driving patterns are killing the batteries. wife's buick never had this problem. another thing to check is to make sure nothing is pressing on your keys while in range of the car.
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02-04-2011, 05:41 PM	#19
John 070 Lieutenant General 1705 Rep 14,829 Posts Drives: 335i cpe Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: ZSP/ZPP/ZCW iTrader: (0)	What I've found with BMW is you can't get something fixed on the 1st try, if it involves parts and labor under warranty. The dealership is always trained to avoid costs. You pull in without a warranty, you bet they start replacing things left and right. Anyhow, much as it's not ideal, bring the car back next week, make an appt. the same day, bring it back 2 wks. later. By the 4th appt. for the same thing, they start replacing things or open a PUMA. 4 seems to be magical. Should a 2k11 have a problem? No. They will fix it if you keep going back. g/l
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02-09-2011, 11:45 PM	#21
orionredwing Captain 106 Rep 728 Posts Drives: 335i Sedan, 135i Coupe Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: San Jose iTrader: (0) Garage List 2007 335i [10.00]	I only drive 30 mi to work roundtrip each day and my battery is fine. 4 yr 2 mo, 68K miles. I've been monitoring the voltage and it's down to 12.2V so I just ordered a CTEK 3300 battery charger/tender from Amazon to see if my battery is really on its last legs, or low due to the short commute. I also accidentally resetted the battery adaptation, so it may be undercharging? I forget if new batteries charge at a higher or lower voltage. I assume lower. http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-Multi-Sma...7316572&sr=8-1 __________________ PROcede \| AMS FMIC \| AR Catless DPs \| AR Oil Cooler \| BMS DCI Wavetrac LSD \| KW V3 w/ Swift Springs \| M3 Front Suspension
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02-10-2011, 05:33 AM	#22
ENINTY Banned 173 Rep 3,415 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Sport Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Virginia iTrader: (0)	Does anybody think it is just a plain ole' defective battery issue. They make millions a batteries a year, it's possible that a few are defective from the get go. Go tell the dealer you want a new battery under warranty. 37 miles a day is plenty to keep a battery charged. I have a 12-year old F150 with the original battery still in it. I maybe drive the truck 40 -60 miles on the weekend and it sits the rest of the time, and the battery is still working fine. I thnk you just have a bad battery, simple as that.
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