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      01-03-2011, 05:56 PM   #1
07GraphiteXI
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Question Solving notchy shifting?

I recently purchased an 07 CPO 328xi 6MT w/ 54k miles. I am coming from a 1997 Acura Integra LS 5MT w/ 160k miles and the one thing I miss from this car is how much smoother the shifting was.

I have read threads about this and it seems like there are some common "fixes" but no consensus on what works best.

It seems like my options are:
  • Drain/Fill MT fluid (planning on doing this and the diff at 60k miles anyway)
  • Short shifter kit (which is the "best" one, I know from reading integra forums that ssks can mess up your transmission syncros - is that an issue with BMW?)
  • Weighted shift knob
  • Remove/modify CDV

Any input would be great. I love the rest of the car but the notchy/rough shifting is really getting on my nerves.
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      01-03-2011, 06:00 PM   #2
Kolyan2k
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07GraphiteXI View Post
I recently purchased an 07 CPO 328xi 6MT w/ 54k miles. I am coming from a 1997 Acura Integra LS 5MT w/ 160k miles and the one thing I miss from this car is how much smoother the shifting was.

I have read threads about this and it seems like there are some common "fixes" but no consensus on what works best.

It seems like my options are:
  • Drain/Fill MT fluid (planning on doing this and the diff at 60k miles anyway)
  • Short shifter kit (which is the "best" one, I know from reading integra forums that ssks can mess up your transmission syncros - is that an issue with BMW?)
  • Weighted shift knob
  • Remove/modify CDV

Any input would be great. I love the rest of the car but the notchy/rough shifting is really getting on my nerves.
When I bought mine, I thought shifting was notchy, but after several months it felt normal. I wish I knew what CDV delete really does. I dont have problems shifting, but I bought my car used and maybe CDV was already removed. I did replace my shift knob to M-sport one, feels a bit better in hand.
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      01-04-2011, 03:50 PM   #3
07GraphiteXI
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I'm looking for a msport shift knob to see if that will help since it seems like the simplest potential fix. How does the perforated leather look with the rest of the e90 interior. The seats aren't perforated...so does it look weird?
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      01-04-2011, 03:58 PM   #4
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not sure that changing the shiftknob is going to solve your problem. BMW makes their own approved shortshift kit which should work well with your car. Have you looked into that?
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      01-04-2011, 03:59 PM   #5
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Redline or Royal Purple Mt Fluid

These will make things smoother be sure to cross reference the part
number as its an ATF Fluid.

See the Mike Miller BMW schedule for his suggested fluids.

I have an Integra also and I got to say Honda makes the sweetest Manual I have
come across, however there autos suck . I put Redline in the Integra and now shifts better than new and it has 215k on it. I put Redline in my BMW Wagon and there is definitely a noticeable difference. Much less notchy and goes into the next selected gear easier.

If you want more clutch feel you might do the CDV it doesn.t bother me that much
though I no longer am a boy racer. (I think)

Last edited by ctuna; 01-04-2011 at 04:19 PM..
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      01-04-2011, 04:11 PM   #6
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I read a good DIY on the forum with installing a B&M short shifter that apparently turned out fantastic. I bought one and will be installing it soon, I will update this later on. Installing a modified CDV will help with the clutch release in it's present delayed state that does not do well for seasoned manual drivers.


http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ighlight=B%26M
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Last edited by Baldur Abendroth; 01-04-2011 at 04:19 PM..
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      01-04-2011, 04:17 PM   #7
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CDV will make a big impact along with a different type of fluid (non oem). ive read many reports where people change the oem fluid to same oem fluid and there is no difference.

after doing the cdv + clutch stop + oem ssk i think its as good as its gunna get.
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      01-04-2011, 05:43 PM   #8
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E9X-B...item35ac09578a

one of our good members use this one and he is extremely happy. i didn't use it yet but from what i see it makes absolute sense
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      01-04-2011, 08:39 PM   #9
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I dunno, it's just not going to feel like the transmission on a car with 120 lb•ft of torque...
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      01-04-2011, 10:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacknbean View Post
CDV will make a big impact along with a different type of fluid (non oem). ive read many reports where people change the oem fluid to same oem fluid and there is no difference.

after doing the cdv + clutch stop + oem ssk i think its as good as its gunna get.
What are some good MTFs to check out? I have heard of redline, motul and royal purple from my time with the integra. Any german specific brands I should look into?
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      01-04-2011, 10:45 PM   #11
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I modded my CDV, replaced the shifter with UUC Evo 3 and their DSSR, and replaced the transmission fluid with Royal Purple Synchromax. Overall, everything made a huge difference and I'm very satisfied with the gearbox now.
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      01-04-2011, 11:57 PM   #12
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I heard option 1 works "Drain/Fill MT fluid"
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      01-05-2011, 12:33 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacknbean View Post
CDV will make a big impact along with a different type of fluid (non oem).
Nah. I've tried royal purple and Redline D4. BMW LT2 is better than either. Should last a long time too.
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      01-05-2011, 03:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kolyan2k View Post
When I bought mine, I thought shifting was notchy, but after several months it felt normal. I wish I knew what CDV delete really does. I dont have problems shifting, but I bought my car used and maybe CDV was already removed. I did replace my shift knob to M-sport one, feels a bit better in hand.
CDV restricts the flow of fluid to protect against shock if the clutch is dumped. In reality, you would have jerky starts and odd shift timing. Also led to slipping the clutch which reduced its life. Removing it leads to smoother starts and increased clutch life. Another of BMW's answers to a question nobody asked. Had one on my e46 but it got killed before I got a chance to take it off.

CDV I think wouldn't change the behavior of actually rowing the gearshift itself..only the behavior of the foot operating the clutch pedal.

Fluid change would be easy and cheap.

The ZHP shift knob is weighted and popular with the e46 guys. http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Zhp_Knob/ES1928201/. Relatively cheap too.

SSK's: UUC is probably the most popular. Rogue Engineering also but I don't see one listed for a 328. would have to call and ask I think. They're about 300 bones.

Look around on youtube for vids of SSK's and stuff so you can make a decision if it's worth it to you.

HTH

Last edited by MissMyE30; 01-05-2011 at 03:31 PM..
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      01-07-2011, 12:01 AM   #15
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Last night I drove my friend's 2010 335xi 6mt. I have to say that shifting was a night and day difference. So much smoother in his car. Granted it only has 11k miles on it. Do the 2010 335 and 2007 328 have the same transmission?

Perhaps changing the fluid will mitigate my problems. I am getting pretty close to the 60k mile change point as advised by "old school" maintenance schedule.
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      01-07-2011, 11:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07GraphiteXI View Post
Last night I drove my friend's 2010 335xi 6mt. I have to say that shifting was a night and day difference. So much smoother in his car. Granted it only has 11k miles on it. Do the 2010 335 and 2007 328 have the same transmission?

Perhaps changing the fluid will mitigate my problems. I am getting pretty close to the 60k mile change point as advised by "old school" maintenance schedule.
335 has ZF manual transmission, 328 uses Getrag trans. They are both good but ZF has higher torque rating.

ZHP shifter has similar weight to m-sport but non-perforated leather (smooth leather though). I got one already, I will install it on Monday and report back. It is 3/4 inch shorter and 2x heavier than stock so it should make some difference.
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      01-07-2011, 12:31 PM   #17
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Redline fluid definitely improved the feel of mine.
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      01-08-2011, 03:58 AM   #18
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from my time whit the mitsu eclipse i tried a couple of different fluids in the transmission.
best one for me back then was the redline lightweight shockproof.
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      01-12-2011, 11:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MazdaFan View Post
335 has ZF manual transmission, 328 uses Getrag trans. They are both good but ZF has higher torque rating.

ZHP shifter has similar weight to m-sport but non-perforated leather (smooth leather though). I got one already, I will install it on Monday and report back. It is 3/4 inch shorter and 2x heavier than stock so it should make some difference.
OK, I installed my ZHP shifter last night, definitely a big improvement over the OEM shift knob. Both weight and shorter height contribute to better shifting performance. My only explanation for OEM shifter is that BMW designed it to have the same weight/throw as economy hatchbacks that europeans are used to driving.

With shorter height and weight of the shifer you can feel the centering spring load on the shifter. Before it felt lousy and rubbery. I highly recommend this easy mod to all MT owners.
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      01-12-2011, 12:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chenx15 View Post
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E9X-B...item35ac09578a

one of our good members use this one and he is extremely happy. i didn't use it yet but from what i see it makes absolute sense
This is the best money I have EVER spent on the car. I installed this (took less than 1 minute) and was simply amazed at how much better the clutch feels.
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      01-12-2011, 04:22 PM   #21
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uuc evo 3 and m weighted knob FTW!!!! silky smooth
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      01-12-2011, 04:35 PM   #22
07GraphiteXI
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Update: I just got the M weighted knob and it's a night and day difference in shift feel. The interior also looks a lot better with it in. OEM knob is a piece of cr@p.

Shifting still leaves something to be desired. When I flush/fill at 60k mi I will update this thread. I will most likely be using OEM fluid (can someone tell me why it's so damn expensive? )
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