[hYoRi]

I had to have my battery changed about a month ago.
I had Triple A roadside so they came and changed my battery for 150.
The guy didn't seem like he knew what he was doing and he even asked for my help so I did. As soon as he was done my my engine started up no problem, but my dash was out. He told me to take it back to his shop and they replaced a fuse. Everything seemed fine and I left but my airbag light came on. Didn't think it had anything to do with the battery I went to look it up online. I assumed it was the passenger side sensor since there have been problems with my model 2006 325i. Took it to the dealer to get it checked out. Apparently I need to replace some cable with an explosive charge for the battery?? Costs about 1000, and I am currently talking with Triple A for liability. Can anyone explain what happened?? If it was the fault of the battery replacement, or just bad luck?? Thanks.

[Mike Clark]

Sounds like AAA messed up to me. Here is a link to battery DIY which should help explain things.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=battery

[ENINTY]

Sorry to hear that you are having this problem. This situation only reinforces the adage that you never, ever, take a BMW to a repair technician that is not fully trained and educated on the repair and maintenance of BMWs. BMWs are (over) engineered differently than other cars; it's been that way for almost forever, and even simple tasks such as oil changes or battery replacements have special techniques, or parts that are not normally associated with like repairs in other car brands.

Most likely the tow truck driver damaged the Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) that is built into the ground cable. Make AAA pay for the repair. It is not your fault that AAA sent someone out to change your battery that had no experience with BMWs.

[GenePoole]

Originally Posted by hYoRi

I had to have my battery changed about a month ago.
I had Triple A roadside so they came and changed my battery for 150.
The guy didn't seem like he knew what he was doing and he even asked for my help so I did. As soon as he was done my my engine started up no problem, but my dash was out. He told me to take it back to his shop and they replaced a fuse. Everything seemed fine and I left but my airbag light came on. Didn't think it had anything to do with the battery I went to look it up online. I assumed it was the passenger side sensor since there have been problems with my model 2006 325i. Took it to the dealer to get it checked out. Apparently I need to replace some cable with an explosive charge for the battery?? Costs about 1000, and I am currently talking with Triple A for liability. Can anyone explain what happened?? If it was the fault of the battery replacement, or just bad luck?? Thanks.

First, make sure the battery is firmly latched down. I had the same warning and took it to the dealer. They told me it would need a new terminal clamp. This is part of the SRS system to blow the battery terminal off in case of an airbag deployment. Turns out the terminal clamp was fine. The battery retention clamp (that holds the battery in the tray) was not even screwed in (don't know how long it had been that way) and going over bumps would shift the battery enough that the sensor plug going to the terminal clamp was worked loose and giving random codes. I clamped the battery back down securely and removed the sensor wire, and with a small screwdriver spread the contacts apart ever-so-slightly to ensure proper contact and I haven't had a problem since.

Don't trust the stealership. They probably read the code (and it says something like "Battery Terminal Clamp Fault") and that's as far as they looked into it.

[GenePoole]

Here's the exact code as read by the BavTech tool:

93B2:
ZK10 / Security battery clamp
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Here's a video of how to remove the sensor wire:

http://hoxnet.com/srs1.mpg

[Chriztofor]

Originally Posted by hYoRi

I had to have my battery changed about a month ago.
I had Triple A roadside so they came and changed my battery for 150.
The guy didn't seem like he knew what he was doing and he even asked for my help so I did. As soon as he was done my my engine started up no problem, but my dash was out. He told me to take it back to his shop and they replaced a fuse. Everything seemed fine and I left but my airbag light came on. Didn't think it had anything to do with the battery I went to look it up online. I assumed it was the passenger side sensor since there have been problems with my model 2006 325i. Took it to the dealer to get it checked out. Apparently I need to replace some cable with an explosive charge for the battery?? Costs about 1000, and I am currently talking with Triple A for liability. Can anyone explain what happened?? If it was the fault of the battery replacement, or just bad luck?? Thanks.

Yeah, big mistake. Have you looked at the DIY for the battery? http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=diy+battery

It is not just removing the black and red cables. A little more involved and to to watch for, especially for some grease monkey who is in a rush and is fiddling around with it on the side of the road. If it wasn't on the side of the road, for $150 you could have had a knowledgeable INDY change it for that price.

-Mr. Hindsight

[antzcrashing]

Originally Posted by GenePoole

First, make sure the battery is firmly latched down. I had the same warning and took it to the dealer. They told me it would need a new terminal clamp. This is part of the SRS system to blow the battery terminal off in case of an airbag deployment. Turns out the terminal clamp was fine. The battery retention clamp (that holds the battery in the tray) was not even screwed in (don't know how long it had been that way) and going over bumps would shift the battery enough that the sensor plug going to the terminal clamp was worked loose and giving random codes. I clamped the battery back down securely and removed the sensor wire, and with a small screwdriver spread the contacts apart ever-so-slightly to ensure proper contact and I haven't had a problem since.

Don't trust the stealership. They probably read the code (and it says something like "Battery Terminal Clamp Fault") and that's as far as they looked into it.

similar thing happened to me, I reset the code with INPA, hoping to never see it again

[antzcrashing]

Originally Posted by antzcrashing

similar thing happened to me, I reset the code with INPA, hoping to never see it again

The light came back on the next day, so I am assuming my cable as shown in the video is loose or disconnected. Can someone show how that cable is connected on both ends?

[07lilredwagon]

Check that the new battery is a good one!....if it is, check the connections, especially the black ground wires for good connection...make sure there is no corrosion anywhere...this will really mess with getting the current to the car.

JP

[allotherareused]

Originally Posted by antzcrashing

The light came back on the next day, so I am assuming my cable as shown in the video is loose or disconnected. Can someone show how that cable is connected on both ends?

This is probably BST. Check contacts near battery, BST is just near + on battery and there is small connector, shake it, disconnect, connect again.

[BoogeyMan'sBMW]

Originally Posted by GenePoole

Here's the exact code as read by the BavTech tool:

93B2:
ZK10 / Security battery clamp
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Here's a video of how to remove the sensor wire:

http://hoxnet.com/srs1.mpg

so, you had the "Restraint Systems Malfunction" code being thrown correct? After you did your readjusting how did you clear the fault and make the light go away?

Also, do you mind telling me which BavTech tool you have?

Thanks in advance!

[shata]

Originally Posted by hYoRi

I had to have my battery changed about a month ago.
I had Triple A roadside so they came and changed my battery for 150.
The guy didn't seem like he knew what he was doing and he even asked for my help so I did. As soon as he was done my my engine started up no problem, but my dash was out. He told me to take it back to his shop and they replaced a fuse. Everything seemed fine and I left but my airbag light came on. Didn't think it had anything to do with the battery I went to look it up online. I assumed it was the passenger side sensor since there have been problems with my model 2006 325i. Took it to the dealer to get it checked out. Apparently I need to replace some cable with an explosive charge for the battery?? Costs about 1000, and I am currently talking with Triple A for liability. Can anyone explain what happened?? If it was the fault of the battery replacement, or just bad luck?? Thanks.

I had same problem on mine its high resistance on positive battery cable and explosive disconnect.

Mine was caused by battery going out the door and car sat for month while I was out of town working. Never started once - Low voltage on battery I believe damaged the disconnect on the initial crank.

If you had INPA you may be able to order just cable, replace it and reset airbag light. I had mine done at dealer at time cause I didnt have software but 1000$ is overpriced...way overpriced thats maybe 1hr of work plus hr of diagnostic fee. Its simple cable swap and INPA work. I talked to SA told him im not stupid and thats simple job. I walked away spending 650$ which is still overpriced but better. they tried charging me originally 950$.

Try to make AAA liable though, For repair cost it caused it may be worth throwing word lawyer in too.

[bimmerbroken:(]

I’m a very new BMW owner however I’ve always loved the German car brands and have learned a lot about BMW itself however a new issue came up which I think is the battery but I do not know any ideas based off the symptoms?
Lights on dash go ballistic on and off
Tachometer/speedometer go high and low (I’m not pressing the accelerator)
Airbag light
Seatbelt light
DTS light
Brake light
Abs light
The whole dash
indicator lights won’t work inside
Axillary lights won’t work always
Car won’t lock or unlock w/ key fob (sometimes)
Is my car screaming to end its life or to just give it a new battery. I don’t wanna spend crazy for a dealer diagnostic to be a junction box when it could be the battery. I just want to confirm. Thank you

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by bimmerbroken:(

... [2011 328xi (black/schwarz) ]I’m a very new BMW owner... Lights on dash go ballistic on and off; Tachometer/speedometer go high and low (I’m not pressing the accelerator)... indicator lights won’t work inside; Auxillary lights won’t work always; Car won’t lock or unlock w/ key fob (sometimes)...
Is my car screaming to end its life or to just give it a new battery. I don’t wanna spend crazy for a dealer diagnostic to be a junction box when it could be the battery. I just want to confirm. Thank you

Welcome to the Forum!
"ELEKTRICKITY": Need to EXPAND your knowledge & Tool Kit.
If the "Light Show" on the Instrument Cluster ONLY happens with Engine running & Alternator Charging, and Starter always cranks engine, your battery is fine. You MAY need to change your Voltage Regulator on rear of Alternator (see below).

"OVER-VOLTAGE": System Voltage > 16.0 V, due to excessive Voltage Output from Alternator with Engine Running. Over-Voltage scrambles Bus Communications between Modules. Your Instrument Cluster gets ALL its signals from Bus System (except Ambient Temp) and is MOST affected by Over-Voltage. I can't guarantee ALL your issues are caused by Over-voltage, but the tests are EASY. ANYONE who owns a car needs a Multimeter, $7 HFT/ $10 Amazon:
https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ter-59434.html
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=multimete...f=nb_sb_noss_1

Tests:
There are different ways to test System Voltage, depending on tools you have available:

0) Freeze Frame Data: IF you have a Scan Tool that can display FF Data for Fault Codes, the "Proof" of Over-voltage may already be present in Fault Memory. Scan Tools & Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) vary in HOW to view that FF Data. I any questions after reading link below, please ask:
https://www.obdautodoctor.com/tutori...ame-explained/

1) Multimeter: Measure voltage (a) at Jumpstart Terminals under Hood, (b) at Lighter Socket (with ignition ON), being CAREFUL NOT to ground B+ probe from center of socket against metal wall of socket, (c) at Battery Posts in trunk. Multimeter instructions have procedure for measuring voltage if NOT a pro.

2) Lighter Socket USB Charger with Voltage display ($10):
https://www.amazon.com/LIHAN-Charger...1&sr=8-15&th=1

3) Scan Tool: Live Data, System Voltage Parameter displayed. Plug Scan Tool into OBD II Socket, Select Live Data (DME/ Engine Control Module), view System Voltage in Real Time.

4) "Hidden Menu 9.00": displays System Voltage on Lower Instrument Cluster. Must be reset EVERY Time you turn Ignition ON. Useful if NO Multimeter, Lighter Voltage display, or Scan Tool. May NOT correctly display System Voltage during Over-voltage since Instrument Cluster gets signals from Bus System (Scrambled?):
https://www.carsaddiction.com/articl...er-hidden-menu

Test FIRST, before ordering any parts. IF you find "Over-Voltage" with engine running & Alternator charging, let us know what you find, and also check your Alternator for Brand & 11-digit BMW Part#. If you have 180-Amp Bosch Alternator, this $38 Voltage Regulator may be ALL you need:
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog?v...age=1&sortby=r

When you post back, please provide Last-7 Characters of your VIN & Make/Model of any Scan Tool available. If NO Scan Tool, do you have either a Laptop, or Android phone?
George

[BRG_N54]

Originally Posted by bimmerbroken:(

Lights on dash go ballistic on and off
Tachometer/speedometer go high and low (I’m not pressing the accelerator)
Airbag light
Seatbelt light
DTS light
Brake light
Abs light
The whole dash
indicator lights won’t work inside
Axillary lights won’t work always
Car won’t lock or unlock w/ key fob (sometimes)

Sounds like a voltage regulator, $40US at FCP, make sure you get the Bosch one.

[bimmerbroken:(]

Originally Posted by BRG_N54

Sounds like a voltage regulator, $40US at FCP, make sure you get the Bosch one.

It was a bad alternator and battery however I was told by a local mechanic shop it is very possible the BCM (body control module) is bad because of the dampness underneath interior where bcm is located. He said if I want to save money and take a 50/50 chance of everything being normal to replace the alternator and battery and he’ll do 750 including labor. I believe this is fair and worth a shot. Any other opinions? But thank you for the voltage regulator I might try that before anything.