[Jlomb436]

Hey folks.

I think I've asked this before a long time ago, but I find myself arriving at work with the temp gauge not even reaching 200 (only 5 miles down the road).

When do you get on the car or throw it into DS? I usually with throw it in DS at 200, and will get on it a little, but never WOT until 230.

Does anyone have an engine block heater? Whats everyone else do?

[BTM]

That gauge is your oil temperature, I typically won't "get on it" until 200*

Like you, I work close enough to home where I don't reach this on my commute. Luckily, I have enough extraneous activity going on where I get to drive my car at operating temperature quite often

[dtc100]

What might be the problem going DS without reaching operating temp?

[gary88]

When cold I keep it in D until the oil level sensor shows a reading, after that if I feel like it I'll shift manually but keep it under 3000RPM until the oil temp reaches 210.

[BarefootManiac]

Originally Posted by dtc100

What might be the problem going DS without reaching operating temp?

Good question... or just driving at high speeds with low temp. Can someone enlighten us with the problem it can cause?

[burningchicken]

Well I know that at low temperatures, the oil isn't as viscous as it should be. So the moving parts in the engine will not move as smoothly as when the oil is less thick. So, you would need a greater force to move the object with thicker oil causing more strain on the parts and wasting precious energy.

[bimmer_335]

I drive in DS & M mode even if its cold... shifts are the same and I dont feel any change in shifting when its hot or cold. I usually dont rev up beyond 3500 rpm until the engine is warmed up though.

[PsychoSlug]

Originally Posted by bimmer_335

I drive in DS & M mode even if its cold... shifts are the same and I dont feel any change in shifting when its hot or cold. I usually dont rev up beyond 3500 rpm until the engine is warmed up though.

+1. There is enough torque available at <3500 RPM that I rarely go over it, and never do when the temp is <200 or so.

[carve]

The question isn't one of performance, but of unnecessary wear.

The engine was designed to work at operating temperature. Tolerences are different when it's cold, and the thick oil doesn't lubricate as well. You also get a lot more blow-by, contaminating the oil. Furthermore, if you get on it RIGHT after you start it, it's particularly bad because the oil isn't even fully circulated.

The number one cause of engine wear: starting the engine from a fully cooled state. I once read an estimate that starting an engine causes as much wear as driving a warmed up engine 500 miles on the highway. If you turn up the revs and torque in this state, it makes it even worse.

As for me, I tend to go progressive. When I first start it, I try to keep the revs between 1300-2300, which is also where I keep it when driving for efficiency. When the temp gauge comes off it's stop (120 or so) I'll take it to 3000 or so, and put my foot in it slightly harder. I'll never redline it or drive the piss out of it until it's up to 200. However, at about 175 or so I'll floor it, but usually shift by 5000 rpm.

There's a problem keeping the revs TOO low on startup (e.g. keeping it below 1500 or so) though, because it increases how long it takes for the engine to warm up. To help it warm up faster, lately I've been downshifting as I come to a stop. I downshift when I predict the next lowest gear won't bring revs above 2300. This lets heat that would normally get disappated by the brakes warm up the engine instead.

P.S.: the oil is MORE thick at low temperatures. While this thicker oil can take greater pressures, the engine was designed to use hot oil. The thick oil has a tough time flowing in the narrow gaps in tightly tolerenced areas.

P.S.S. Some Formula 1 engines are built so tight they CAN'T even be started cold. The oil and coolant is pre-warmed externally, and pumped through the engine to warm it up before it's even started. Before then, the engine is essentially seized. Your bimmer is no F1 car, but you still get the idea: thick oil + shrunken parts = bad.

[BarefootManiac]

Originally Posted by carve

The question isn't one of performance, but of unnecessary wear.

The engine was designed to work at operating temperature. Tolerences are different when it's cold, and the thick oil doesn't lubricate as well. You also get a lot more blow-by, contaminating the oil. Furthermore, if you get on it RIGHT after you start it, it's particularly bad because the oil isn't even fully circulated.

The number one cause of engine wear: starting the engine from a fully cooled state. I once read an estimate that starting an engine causes as much wear as driving a warmed up engine 500 miles on the highway. If you turn up the revs and torque in this state, it makes it even worse.

As for me, I tend to go progressive. I'll never redline it or drive the piss out of it until it's up to 200. However, at about 175 or so I'll floor it, but usually shift by 5000 rpm.

When I first start it, I try to keep the revs between 1300-2300. There's a problem keeping the revs TOO low though, because it increases how long it takes for the engine to warm up. To help it warm up faster, lately I've been downshifting as I come to a stop. I downshift when I predict the next lowest gear won't bring revs above 2300. This lets heat that would normally get disappated by the brakes warm up the engine instead.

P.S.: the oil is MORE thick at low temperatures. While this thicker oil can take greater pressures, the engine was designed to use hot oil. The thick oil has a tough time flowing in the narrow gaps in tightly tolerenced areas.

Thanks! That was a good informative response.

[dtc100]

I don't rev high at cold start, but also do not wait too long, usually give it 2 mins to warm up then off we go. Life is too short

BTW where do I read temp from? I have yet seen it anywhere.

[carve]

Originally Posted by dtc100

BTW where do I read temp from? I have yet seen it anywhere.

From the dash of a 335i


I would say "hey- your engine. knock yourself out". But someone else will probably by that car some day and be unaware it was driven hard cold.

[BTM]

Originally Posted by dtc100

BTW where do I read temp from? I have yet seen it anywhere.

On 335s we have an oil temp gauge...not sure where it is on 328s

[Minefield]

Originally Posted by BTM

On 335s we have an oil temp gauge...not sure where it is on 328s

E92 328s have the same gauge

[BTM]

Originally Posted by AiyahPK

E92 328s have the same gauge

Weird. Only 328s I've driven were E90 and have that "real-time" Mpg estimator

[dtc100]

Originally Posted by carve

From the dash of a 335i


I would say "hey- your engine. knock yourself out". But someone else will probably by that car some day and be unaware it was driven hard cold.

My car will be better cared for than probably 80% of out there though.

I guess the 328 (E90 non sport?) drivers don't have to worry about the temp since BMW does not show it to us

[michaelthepsycho]

Engine oil temperature is 210F as stated on page 64 of the manual.

[Brian135i]

After oil temp reach about 170, I go WOT. :-)

[Jlomb436]

Originally Posted by michaelthepsycho

Engine oil temperature is 210F as stated on page 64 of the manual.

I did not know that the op temp is 210, thanks. I don't think mine is ever there though, I'm always at 230-240, and if I drive hard 250. Never had it over 260.