[StatenEye]

As the title say, what is the amp rating?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by medeiro

As the title say, what is the amp rating?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...98&hg=12&fg=20

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by Technic

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...98&hg=12&fg=20

Jesus! $700 for a refurb!

[Technic]

It is $442 plus $50 core, actually...

[StatenEye]

Thanks for the link. So 170 - 180 amps. I am added a JL 1000/1 and an extra battery. The car is having touble kicking over when i let it sit for like 2 days without driving, the amp is also showing a low voltage indicator when i push the bass.

Technic, Should the stock alt be able to charge both batterys?
Thanks

[Technic]

Originally Posted by medeiro

Thanks for the link. So 170 - 180 amps. I am added a JL 1000/1 and an extra battery. The car is having touble kicking over when i let it sit for like 2 days without driving, the amp is also showing a low voltage indicator when i push the bass.

Technic, Should the stock alt be able to charge both batterys?
Thanks

Not at the same time... I think that you should consider either a single deep cycle battery with a better than OEM capacity or something like this for a dual battery setup: http://www.matson.com.au/images/98500fitting.pdf

[StatenEye]

Originally Posted by Technic

Not at the same time... I think that you should consider either a single deep cycle battery with a better than OEM capacity or something like this for a dual battery setup: http://www.matson.com.au/images/98500fitting.pdf

What about a dual battery isolator.

Also could you please reccomend a deep cycle battery, and how i can install it, i cant remember exactly but it seemed as if the oem battery has two positive outputs, well not two positive outputs but a red device connecting a few wires to the positive terminal. Can you explain what the red contraption is and what do i do with it when i replace the battery.
Thanks

Let me know thanks.

[Tegs4tugs]

If the battery cant hold up for 2 days then either something is not shutting off properly and draining your battery or the battery is no good, stock battery should be able to hold a good charge with the system off, just make sure you have a good cap on your system and you should be ok. I have two fosgate 600 RMS amp and a 20 farad cap with stock battery and have no problems and I only drive my car on the weekends so it usually sits for 4-5 days every week.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by medeiro

Thanks for the link. So 170 - 180 amps. I am added a JL 1000/1 and an extra battery. The car is having touble kicking over when i let it sit for like 2 days without driving, the amp is also showing a low voltage indicator when i push the bass.

Technic, Should the stock alt be able to charge both batterys?
Thanks

Just that 1000W amp shouldn't cause that to happen unless it is not installed correctly. Is it a low voltage condition at the battery or only at the amp? Both with the engine on and off? If you have a low voltage condition at the battery, two batteries will only make it worse. Edit: I stand corrected, the dual battery kit Technic posted addresses the concern about doubling up the charging load.

[StatenEye]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

Just that 1000W amp shouldn't cause that to happen unless it is not installed correctly. Is it a low voltage condition at the battery or only at the amp? Both with the engine on and off? If you have a low voltage condition at the battery, two batteries will only make it worse. Edit: I stand corrected, the dual battery kit Technic posted addresses the concern about doubling up the charging load.

Yea at the battery i am dropping to below 11v when the bass hits hard. Im not about to upgrade the alt and the second battery deep cycle was drained by the JL 1000 after 10 seconds. Im pretty pissed i spent a ton of money on this shit.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by medeiro

Yea at the battery i am dropping to below 11v when the bass hits hard. Im not about to upgrade the alt and the second battery deep cycle was drained by the JL 1000 after 10 seconds. Im pretty pissed i spent a ton of money on this shit.

Something is definitely wrong. That is not normal.

[kaigoss69]

I'm no electrician but I have never thought a second battery is a wise investment. In my mind the amp draws power from the second battery (12V) instead of the alt (14-15V). Then when you shut off your car, the second battery which has been drained by the amp now tries to recharge from the main battery.

Try to disconnect the second battery and see what the voltage drop is then. It may be better if you go with a single deep cycle battery (Optima or equivalent). If you're still having trouble then you may want to look into a "big 3" upgrade, which is relatively inexpensive, and/or a more costly alt. replacement.

[StatenEye]

I went everywhere trying to figure this situation out and no1 had an answer that made sense to me. They looked at my battery and said, " thats huge, its more then sufficient." And when i told them my alt was rated at 170-180 amps they said that wasnt the problem. The 500/1 was causing my car to have long cranks but the bass never cut off. Then when i upgraded to a 1000/1 the car still showed the same symptoms, long starts not longer or more frequent but the same as when i had the 500/1 installed. The voltage at the amp is droping, i would attribute this to poor wiring but the car is still having long cranks which makes me think the problem lies with the stock electrical system. My guesss is that my original battery is not holding a charge as long as it should. Could this be because i drive the car once a week and when i drive i am always pumping the amp at least 75%? Is my original battery bad?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by medeiro

I went everywhere trying to figure this situation out and no1 had an answer that made sense to me. They looked at my battery and said, " thats huge, its more then sufficient." And when i told them my alt was rated at 170-180 amps they said that wasnt the problem. The 500/1 was causing my car to have long cranks but the bass never cut off. Then when i upgraded to a 1000/1 the car still showed the same symptoms, long starts not longer or more frequent but the same as when i had the 500/1 installed. The voltage at the amp is droping, i would attribute this to poor wiring but the car is still having long cranks which makes me think the problem lies with the stock electrical system. My guesss is that my original battery is not holding a charge as long as it should. Could this be because i drive the car once a week and when i drive i am always pumping the amp at least 75%? Is my original battery bad?

You need to isolate the two batteries with a device like the one that I posted. Otherwise your dual battery setup will never work correctly.

There's not that much else to it.

[StatenEye]

Originally Posted by Technic

You need to isolate the two batteries with a device like the one that I posted. Otherwise your dual battery setup will never work correctly.

There's not that much else to it.

Can i just run one dry cell deep cycle as my main battery and forget the two battery setup? I have a Stinger SPV35 is that sufficient or should i get a yellow top?

Actually i just reread your first recomendation, please let me know which battery i should get, i want this situation to be done with ASAP.

Thanks

[Technic]

Originally Posted by medeiro

Can i just run one dry cell deep cycle as my main battery and forget the two battery setup? I have a Stinger SPV35 is that sufficient or should i get a yellow top?

Actually i just reread your first recomendation, please let me know which battery i should get, i want this situation to be done with ASAP.

Thanks

Yes, you could install an Optima Yellow Top D31A or D31T deep cycle battery (75AH/900A) with a better capacity ratings than the OEM battery (70AH/760A). However, you need to make sure that the OEM distribution block (item # 3 below) will fit that battery as well.

[StatenEye]

Originally Posted by Technic

Yes, you could install an Optima Yellow Top D31A or D31T deep cycle battery (75AH/900A) with a better capacity ratings than the OEM battery (70AH/760A). However, you need to make sure that the OEM distribution block (item # 3 below) will fit that battery as well.

Its seems it will fit on the optima but i am also curious if my stinger SPV 35 is stronger then the oem battery therefore i dont have to buy a new battery. Please let me know if i can run it as my primary and only battery.

Nevermind the Stinger is rated at 525amps 35ah. So Optima it is.

Im not sure which battery i have,
No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes
01 Battery Fa. Douglas (Warranty only) 70AH 570A 1 61218381738 $153.75
01 Battery from Exide (Warranty Only) 70AH 570A 1 61217586960 $192.50
01 Battery AGM 12V 90AH/900A AGM 70AH 760A 1 61217553951
01 Battery Fa. Douglas (Warranty only) 80AH 640A 1 61218381749 $170.00
01 Battery from Exide (Warranty Only) 80AH 640A 1 61217586961 $212.50
01 Battery Fa. Douglas (Warranty only) 90AH 720A 1 61218381762 $180.62
01 Battery from Exide (Warranty Only) 90AH 720A 1 61217586962 $235.00
01 Battery AGM 12V 90AH/900A AGM 90AH 900A 1 61217553954 $307.50

[Technic]

Originally Posted by medeiro

Its seems it will fit on the optima but i am also curious if my stinger SPV 35 is stronger then the oem battery therefore i dont have to buy a new battery. Please let me know if i can run it as my primary and only battery.

Nevermind the Stinger is rated at 525amps 35ah. So Optima it is.

Im not sure which battery i have,
No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes
01 Battery Fa. Douglas (Warranty only) 70AH 570A 1 61218381738 $153.75
01 Battery from Exide (Warranty Only) 70AH 570A 1 61217586960 $192.50
01 Battery AGM 12V 90AH/900A AGM 70AH 760A 1 61217553951
01 Battery Fa. Douglas (Warranty only) 80AH 640A 1 61218381749 $170.00
01 Battery from Exide (Warranty Only) 80AH 640A 1 61217586961 $212.50
01 Battery Fa. Douglas (Warranty only) 90AH 720A 1 61218381762 $180.62
01 Battery from Exide (Warranty Only) 90AH 720A 1 61217586962 $235.00
01 Battery AGM 12V 90AH/900A AGM 90AH 900A 1 61217553954 $307.50

That's what you need to find out first before doing anything else... the P/N should be printed on top of your OEM battery.

[StatenEye]

Originally Posted by Technic

That's what you need to find out first before doing anything else... the P/N should be printed on top of your OEM battery.

Thanks for the help.

[StatenEye]

Ok Technic and others helping,

Im going to go the route of a battery isolator,

Which one do you recomend,


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STING...=p4506.c0.m245

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SGP38-HI...4.c0.m14.l1262

And how to i hook these up,
Posi from isolator to Posi on primary battery,
Posi2 from isolator to posi on Aux battery
Smaller output from battery isolator to ground
Second smaller output to ???? a true ignition source, whats that?

[808MGuy]

Before you go through the whole exercise of buying a dual battery setup, have you ever checked the wiring for the amp? When you changed from the 500/1 to the 1000/1, did you redo the wiring or did you just swap out amps? It really seems to me that you have a wiring problem that for some reason is killing your battery. If your battery is not holding a charge anymore then you'll need to buy a new one anyway but I'd rather not see you buy a new one only for it to die in a month or so because the problem is still there.

What happens if you disconnect the amp for a couple weeks? Does the battery hold its charge longer?

[StatenEye]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

Before you go through the whole exercise of buying a dual battery setup, have you ever checked the wiring for the amp? When you changed from the 500/1 to the 1000/1, did you redo the wiring or did you just swap out amps? It really seems to me that you have a wiring problem that for some reason is killing your battery. If your battery is not holding a charge anymore then you'll need to buy a new one anyway but I'd rather not see you buy a new one only for it to die in a month or so because the problem is still there.

What happens if you disconnect the amp for a couple weeks? Does the battery hold its charge longer?

Im sure the wiring is correct, but i do have the same suspicion about the original battery. IMO I don't drive the car enough to properly charge the battery, and when i do drive the car i kill the battery because i crank the amp and crank the AC every moment im in the car. Im thinking I need to properly charge the battery with a long 2 hour drive and then I should be good. But i still want to buy the isolator and run a aux battery for the amp.