[HoJun]

hello.

stock Logic7 system sounds awesome, still happy with the system but only prob is
i want to boost up the bass. need more bass!

i have no! knowledge for aftermarket sound systems at all!.

is JL 13" 3-ohm 13TW5-3 subwoofer any good?
which amp should i use with TW5?

wat is the best set of sub n amp for below $1000?

thank you. any help appreciated/

[kaigoss69]

I depends...

If you are looking for SQ (Sound Quality) you need to take care of ALL low-end frequencies, including mid bass, which is lacking severely in the OEM L7 system and which cannot be improved by just adding a sub by itself.

The midbass frequencies are produced by the "subs" under your seats. In the OEM system they play all the frequencies below 150Hz. What you should do is split the low frequency band as follows:

150 Hz down to 80 Hz: Underseat OEM "subs". The OEM drivers are actually very capable once you amplify them with an aftermarket amp and cut off the lower frequencies. They can then "concentrate" on playing the mid bass frequencies at a level that blends very well with the higher and lower frequency bands, and from personal experience they do it very well!

80Hz and below: Aftermarket sub in trunk. These are the frequencies aftermarket subs are designed for. Also, frequencies above 80Hz are difficult to get out of the trunk and into the cabin, and you would definitely have much less "focus" then what you can get from dedicated mid bass drivers.

For the above scenario, and keeping in mind your budget of $1000, I would get a decent 4-channel amp with speaker level inputs (~$400) which would allow you to run the underseat mid bass in stereo from channels 1 & 2, and the sub in bridged mode from channels 3 & 4. The output of such an amp should be about 150W per channel stereo and about 300 - 500W bridged. The amp MUST have high pass AND low pass filters for each set of channels so you can separate the frequencies accordingly.

For the sub, I would go with a single 12" in a sealed box, something like JL Audio W3 or Infinity perfect, and you can get a good sub for $400 including the box. The remaining $200 you can spend on installation and installation accessories.

If you are only looking for SPL however, the approach would be to put a big a$$ sub (like the one you have already picked out) into the trunk with a big a$$ mono amp driving it. Keep in mind that you will lose the mid bass under the seats if you do this and there will be a big audible "hole" between the 4" mids in your doors and the monster sub in your trunk.

[quality_sound]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

I depends...

If you are looking for SQ (Sound Quality) you need to take care of ALL low-end frequencies, including mid bass, which is lacking severely in the OEM L7 system and which cannot be improved by just adding a sub by itself.

The midbass frequencies are produced by the "subs" under your seats. In the OEM system they play all the frequencies below 150Hz. What you should do is split the low frequency band as follows:

150 Hz down to 80 Hz: Underseat OEM "subs". The OEM drivers are actually very capable once you amplify them with an aftermarket amp and cut off the lower frequencies. They can then "concentrate" on playing the mid bass frequencies at a level that blends very well with the higher and lower frequency bands, and from personal experience they do it very well!

80Hz and below: Aftermarket sub in trunk. These are the frequencies aftermarket subs are designed for. Also, frequencies above 80Hz are difficult to get out of the trunk and into the cabin, and you would definitely have much less "focus" then what you can get from dedicated mid bass drivers.

For the above scenario, and keeping in mind your budget of $1000, I would get a decent 4-channel amp with speaker level inputs (~$400) which would allow you to run the underseat mid bass in stereo from channels 1 & 2, and the sub in bridged mode from channels 3 & 4. The output of such an amp should be about 150W per channel stereo and about 300 - 500W bridged. The amp MUST have high pass AND low pass filters for each set of channels so you can separate the frequencies accordingly.

For the sub, I would go with a single 12" in a sealed box, something like JL Audio W3 or Infinity perfect, and you can get a good sub for $400 including the box. The remaining $200 you can spend on installation and installation accessories.

If you are only looking for SPL however, the approach would be to put a big a$$ sub (like the one you have already picked out) into the trunk with a big a$$ mono amp driving it. Keep in mind that you will lose the mid bass under the seats if you do this and there will be a big audible "hole" between the 4" mids in your doors and the monster sub in your trunk.

Do you have any idea what you're talking about?? First you tell him to use a 12" for the best sound quality and then tell him the 13" sub he's picked out is for SPL. That must be the most important inch in the history of audio.
Obviously you don't have any experience with the TW5 or you'd know it's a far cry from an SPL sub. While it is 13" in diameter is also has very limited throw because it's only 2" deep. It is a BEAUTIFUL sounding driver and most definitely out of it's element being used as an SPL sub.
Also, the size of a sub has absolutely nothing to do with whether it's geared towards SQ or SPL. Blindly recommending a 12" is just silly.

HoJun - As I understand it the L7 system is pretty unfriendly for upgrading so adding a sub probably will be the onlything you can do unless you want to replace everything. If all you want to do is add some extra low end then the 13TW5 is a GREAT sub. It's kind of a throwback as it's a larger cone but with less throw rather than the super high excurions subs we've been subjected to over the last decade or so. Any time you can keep control over the sub, which is easier to do if it's not trying to move 3" to make some decent low end, then the better it's going to sound. I have personally used the W1s, W5s, W6s, W6v2s, and the TW5s and they all sounded great as long as you make sure it's in a properly sized enclosure and is powered adequately to meet your output needs.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

Do you have any idea what you're talking about??

I've been an active car audio enthusiast for 20 years now.

Originally Posted by quality_sound

First you tell him to use a 12" for the best sound quality and then tell him the 13" sub he's picked out is for SPL. That must be the most important inch in the history of audio.

I've always drawn the line between SQ and SPL at 12". I thought the sub he was referring to was 15". I guess I am not up to speed on the latest and greatest stuff out there.

I still think a 12" JL or Infinity is the best bang for the buck, and given that there is no real space restriction here, the 13" JL would be a bit overkill, especially with the $1000 budget the OP stated.

Just trying to help here, really.

[quality_sound]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

I've been an active car audio enthusiast for 20 years now.

I've always drawn the line between SQ and SPL at 12". I thought the sub he was referring to was 15". I guess I am not up to speed on the latest and greatest stuff out there.

Uhhh...

Even if it was a 15" your point is moot. The two absolute best subs I've ever heard in ANY car were a 15" and an 18" (Image Dynamics IDW15 and IDW18) and they were pure SQ subs.

I still think a 12" JL or Infinity is the best bang for the buck, and given that there is no real space restriction here, the 13" JL would be a bit overkill, especially with the $1000 budget the OP stated.

How is the 13" over kill but a 12" not? I'll have to look again but I'm pretty sure if boom was his #1 goal ANY 12" JL makes would be louder than the 13TW5. And just because he has no space restriction doesn't mean he HAS to use all of the space he has.

I agree, almost $600 of a $1000 budget just for the sub is probably a tad lopsided but if he likes it, he likes it. He just might have to expand his budget a bit.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

Uhhh...

Even if it was a 15" your point is moot. The two absolute best subs I've ever heard in ANY car were a 15" and an 18" (Image Dynamics IDW15 and IDW18) and they were pure SQ subs.

There are always exceptions to the rule, but your definition of SQ may also not be the same as mine or that of the mainstream audiophile.

Originally Posted by quality_sound

How is the 13" over kill but a 12" not? I'll have to look again but I'm pretty sure if boom was his #1 goal ANY 12" JL makes would be louder than the 13TW5. And just because he has no space restriction doesn't mean he HAS to use all of the space he has.

The 13" JL is overkill because it is engineered to have a very low profile and therefore carries a premium cost. Since the OP probably does not require such a low profile, he could be wasting money on something he does not need.

[quality_sound]

SQ is SQ is SQ. It's either accurate or it's not. What are you getting at?

I agree, and I conceded that point but your point was that it was overkill because of the size, not the cost. It's wasteful given his budget but NOT overkill.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

SQ is SQ is SQ. It's either accurate or it's not. What are you getting at?

SQ is 100% subjective, otherwise there would be microphones and computers judging audio systems at competitions, and not humans. Besides, you cannot tell me that the notes coming from an 18" driver will be nearly as accurate as those coming from a 10" or 12" driver. It is just simple physics, really.

Originally Posted by quality_sound

I agree, and I conceded that point but your point was that it was overkill because of the size, not the cost. It's wasteful given his budget but NOT overkill.

I meant it was overkill because it was designed for low profile, therefore costing more and not fitting in the OP's budget. I did not mean to say that it was overkill because of the size.