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      07-15-2008, 01:46 AM   #1
Evolution Racewerks
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ER 135i debuts at Super Lap Battle!

So this past weekend was our first race event, Super Lap Battle (Time Attack). This was one of the most grueling weekends I've ever preparing for an event. We were putting down 18+ hours all week in anticipation for our first event. All our parts are finally showing up a few days before the event. Forgeline finished our Competition ZX3R wheels on Wednesday and next day air it from Ohio to Cali (thanks Dave@Forgeline!!!). We pick up our 285/30/18 Advan Neovas tires (thanks Mark and Paul @ Yokohama!) on Thursday.

Friday comes and we've got a million things to do. We work through the night and into the morning. Everyone is going at a feverish pace, we needed to leave at 5 am to make the morning session. 5 am and we're still not done. Finally at 7 am the car rolls out and we HAUL butt to the track (Willow Springs) and get there around 9 a.m. Go through tech and we pass (whew!). Finally around 1 or 2 pm we're FINALLY on the track. Cars go throug the warm up lap and head out through the last sweeper into the front straight. We're all getting ancy by then as we've been waiting for months for this day. The cars hit the front straight, the 135i is hauling down the track HARD. A smile comes on my face as I knew we did a great job getting the power we needed. By the 1/3 of the lap, the 135i had already passed a car and was now a few cars behind a Lotus Elise. However, by mid lap were were losing ground. Unknown to us in pit lane at the moment that the car was having issues with the OEM equipment. The car head out of the sweeper and into the front straight. A big smile comes on my face as the big lead the Lotus had pulled quickly disappeared as our 135i reeled in the Lotus on the straight. By the end of the straight and into the first turn the 135i was literally planted on the Lotus' rear bumper. The car disappears out of view and we wait till they come back around. $#@%!!! 135i not behind the Lotus. Finally we see it limping around the track as cars pass. Robert Fuller (RobiSpec) our driver pulls the car in pit lane. I run up and he yells at me that the traction control keeps turning back on and the car was also going into limp mode and he was losing power. Also, the SRS (airbag) light is on. I check the traction control real quick, doesn't seem like anything is wrong. We didn't have this issue before while in testing. Robi takes it back out and brings it right in. We leave the track and go to the pits to try to diagnose the problem.

Talking to Robi, theories start to come up. The traction control would come on (even when full set off) when he would take a hard turn and the car would go into limp mode. The car was gripping very hard now with our 18x10 (285/30/18 Advan Neovas) front wheels and the SRS system's G sensor was picking up the laterial g's and thinking the car was about to roll over, hence turning traction control back on and going into limp mode. Nothing we can do at the track. No choice, take it back out and take it easier and try to get at least 1 full lap without going into limp mode.

Second session started and ended like the first. The car's OEM equipment was fighting us the whole way. The 100+ temperatures (120+ track temps) also did not help at all. More issues with the OEM equipment arose. Robi started shifting at 5,000 rpm to fight off the heat. No point going on. We pull back into the pit and load up for the day. Day 1, less than 10 laps run all day and not 1 full lap under full power. We didn't even bother to check our times as we had did not have even 1 full lap.

We head out to RobiSpec (closer to the track)to attempt to fix the issues for the next day. By then, I had not slept since Thursday night and had lost all my higher brain functions and in a zombie state. Robi was a warrior though. He had not slept either but was going to town trying to fix the problems. Much respect to him. That is dedication right there. We go through the night working on the car. Finally went to bed around midnight. Woke up around 4:30 am and we go at it again finishing the car. By around 6:00 am the car rolls out of the garage and we're off. We had to be there at 7:30 am or else we're done so we were hauling. This was the first time I got to drive the car with the new setup. WOW, it is fast. 80 to 130 mph pulls (empty desert back roads) ocurred in a blink of an eye. I take a few hard 90 degree turns. OMG, front grip on this thing is insane. The car totally feels different. We got the the track literally at 7:30 am and got ready for the morning session.

The car goes out and we're all nervous. Warm up lap passes and we're off. Everything looks good. Car doesn't seem to be slowing down. The car goes through the last sweeper turn and into the front straight. Fingers crossed. Is Robi going to stay on the track or come off. HE STAYS ON THE TRACK!!! We start cheering! Car disappears out of view and then back. NOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The cars limping back again. Robi pulls off the track and back to our pits. The OEM equipment is still fighting us and there's no way to resolve it at the track. Robi tells us that he was able to almost make a full lap, he was shifting at 5,000 rpm again, trying to fight off the limp mode. Finally when he hit the front straight, the car went into limp mode and that was it. We check the time. 1:37:111 from that run, best of both days. DAMN!!!. We pack up and went home, tired and dissapointed. At least we figured out all the issues with the OEM equipment and we still had another event next week (this weekend now).

So this is where the rollercoaster ride went. We get a call from Elliot from Source Interlink (publishing company that makes all the major car magazines which also organizes Super Lap Battle). To our amazement, after a weekend of problems and only being able to put down almost 1 full lap, we placed 3rd in Street Class and qualified for the Super Lap Battle Finals in November (top 3 in class qualify)!!! We were jumping for joy like we had won the event. This was the first time ever that I was ever happy being the second place loser but man did it feel good. After working so hard all week, we had a chance to do it all again at the Finals.

Now the car is back in the shop and we're getting ready for our next event which is Redline Time Attack this weekend at Fontana We welcome everyone to come check us out and say hi to us! We should resolve all the OEM equipment issues we're having by then and our driver Robert Fuller is confident we can take first this time if we do not have any issues. The car pulls strong and we have plenty of straightline acceleration to chase down cars. We have enough grip in the turns to go very fast as well. Hopefully this weekend, we'll make everyone proud by taking first place from the Japanese cars.

Now enough of my ramblings, I'm sure you guys would rather see the pics. Have more pics that I need to get on the computer later on. We also have video that I will get up as soon as possible.












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      07-15-2008, 06:23 AM   #2
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Wow, this really speaks volumes about how well you all have set up the car. It sucks you had the issues with the OEM electronic "aids", but good luck getting it ironed out. Great job!
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      07-15-2008, 07:27 AM   #3
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Are you using ECU software?

Other "stock" 135i's have not had the "limp mode" problems that you have described from what I have read....of course they are not running the large wheel/tire combos either.

Did you specifically have overheat trouble or just too much grip as you speculated, hence, confusing the cars traction control system?

Lastly, tell us about the fitment of those monster 18x10 wheels?

Thanks!
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      07-15-2008, 08:10 AM   #4
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Subscribed. Can't wait for next episode. TIA.
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      07-15-2008, 08:48 AM   #5
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Great story.. sorry for all the trouble, but it's amazing that you qualified!

I'm baffled how you got 285's up front though. Does it have to do with that blue tape on the front fenders? Is there evidence of some Frankenstein flaring under there? Also, you must be running a TON of camber, even if you flared things.
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      07-15-2008, 08:53 AM   #6
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Great results even though your team experienced issues! I'm sure you will resolve those issues and attain even better results in the future. We are waiting for updates on causes and the solutions you implement. First, we'd love to hear about the modifications required to stuff 285x30-18s under the front of the car. :eyebulge:
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      07-15-2008, 11:27 AM   #7
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I am with Mikeo and Larryn. How did you get 285 under a 135?

I now have a glimmer of hope in D stock
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      07-15-2008, 12:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles1 View Post
I am with Mikeo and Larryn. How did you get 285 under a 135?

I now have a glimmer of hope in D stock
Charles, I'm pretty sure what they have done to the front fenders/liners/bumper will take you out of D-Stock! :biggrin:
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      07-15-2008, 01:55 PM   #9
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Yes, we're running the Split Second Turbo Tuner at the moment.
Our issues with the car going into limp mode however are not likely caused by it as the turbo tuner is essentially just a MAP clamp and does not change anything else in the ECU.
However, I could be wrong. I don't want to speculate and possibly give out false info until we're completely sure what's going on here and how we fix it. It's on the top of our list right now as we have another event this weekend.

We were having issues with both traction and heat. I will elaborate more on this after this weekend after we've tested out the changes.

The 18x10 (285 tires) fits the rears fine with the proper offset. The offsets however you will not likely find on any standard wheel from any manufacturer. We run Forgeline wheels and they make each wheel is made to order so you order the offset, they make it. The Forgeline wheels are awesome. The 18x10 wheel weighs about 19 pounds (ours has the titanium fasteners) and are quite durable. I actually had to go offroading in the car on the back desert roads on the way to RobiSpec and the wheels held up great. Hit a couple of big pot holes as I was super tired and still the rims were fine.

With the rears I used up every millimeter of space on the inside. However everything clears. We get a slight rub on the wheel liner, not the metal edge, so we're good. We ran the whole event and drove about 200 miles Saturday night without having the fenders rolled.

The fronts however will not fit in the stock fender. We made our own metal flared fender Friday night before the race and finished it Saturday morning (day of the race). We had to start so late with it as our wheels and tires did not show up until Thursday and I needed the wheels to make sure the fender will clear. 18x10 (285) is about the widest anyone should try to go on the fronts. The wheel gets really close to the inner seam on the door side. I think if you went 11 or even 10.5 in the front and you will hit it. The fender is stitch welded together so the tape is there to cover the seams. After the next race, we're going to take off the fender and make a mold out of it and make it out of dry carbon. That way we can have spares just in case. We may also make it into production and sell them, however I am unsure if there would be enough sales from them. The offset on the fronts put the inner side of the wheel where the OEM wheels sit. I did not want to go deeper into the wheel as it already sit really close to the shock assembly. We were also going to run more camber with our adjustable lower control arms we're developing right now. We're currently using the KW camber/caster plates to adjust camber. So the new wheels stick out about 2.5" out from were the factory wheels are. Take a ruler and measure 2.5" out from your factory front wheels and that's where our wheel and fender flares sit.

I have more pictures showing the fenders that I'll put up when I get them on the computer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MINI135i View Post
Are you using ECU software?

Other "stock" 135i's have not had the "limp mode" problems that you have described from what I have read....of course they are not running the large wheel/tire combos either.

Did you specifically have overheat trouble or just too much grip as you speculated, hence, confusing the cars traction control system?

Lastly, tell us about the fitment of those monster 18x10 wheels?

Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
Great story.. sorry for all the trouble, but it's amazing that you qualified!

I'm baffled how you got 285's up front though. Does it have to do with that blue tape on the front fenders? Is there evidence of some Frankenstein flaring under there? Also, you must be running a TON of camber, even if you flared things.
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      07-15-2008, 02:01 PM   #10
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Don't have to wait long. Next episode this weekend :biggrin: @ California Speedway. All you local SoCal guys come out and support us!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrc View Post
Subscribed. Can't wait for next episode. TIA.
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      07-15-2008, 02:05 PM   #11
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Lol, Most definitely. Luckily for us, widebody and flares are allowed in our class.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeo View Post
Charles, I'm pretty sure what they have done to the front fenders/liners/bumper will take you out of D-Stock! :biggrin:
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      07-15-2008, 02:12 PM   #12
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woo! go evolution racewerks!
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      07-15-2008, 02:59 PM   #13
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Thanks, Fred! Good luck with the troubleshooting.
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      07-15-2008, 08:36 PM   #14
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So here's the official results of the event.
3rd overall in Street Class (I believe there were 9 entries in Street Class)
2nd in Street Class RWD


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      07-16-2008, 12:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeo View Post
Charles, I'm pretty sure what they have done to the front fenders/liners/bumper will take you out of D-Stock! :biggrin:

Sorry DSP not D stock. sleep helps
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      07-16-2008, 01:22 AM   #16
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So I'm getting a few request on our wheel offsets which I don't consider a big secret and I'm too lazy to type the same response so here they are:

Front Wheel: 18x10 +20
Rear Wheel: 18x10 +62

Depending on the camber and/or suspension used in the front, you can go up to +24. This is for the 10" wheel of course. This will not clear the stock fender obviously.

The rear specs will clear. You have to be right on with the offset, there is no room to spare. There is slight rub on the inside fender liner but not on the metal. We run a 285 tire. If you run a smaller size and stretch the tire, it may clear with no issues at all.

It is possible to run a lower offset as low as +57, but you will definitely need to roll the fenders then.

With our current setup, we are not running any spacers or any rolled fender. I sized the offset perfectly I think. The fronts have the flared fender however since a 10" wheel will never fit the stock front fender.
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      07-16-2008, 08:29 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles1 View Post
Sorry DSP not D stock. sleep helps
Charles, the 1-Series with the mods you already have would run in B-Street prepared (BSP) in SCCA Solo. IIRC, the fender mods Fred has described would put you in Street Modified (SM).
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      07-16-2008, 09:13 AM   #18
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If there are any weight savings when you make the carbon fenders, i will buy it. sign me up
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      07-16-2008, 09:16 AM   #19
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Another question how many g's were you pulling through the corners.
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      07-16-2008, 04:46 PM   #20
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Mikeo, I must be losing my mind. I was trying to type BSP all this time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeo View Post
Charles, the 1-Series with the mods you already have would run in B-Street prepared (BSP) in SCCA Solo. IIRC, the fender mods Fred has described would put you in Street Modified (SM).
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      07-16-2008, 05:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles1 View Post
Mikeo, I must be losing my mind. I was trying to type BSP all this time.
LOL! No worries. Like my mother always said, "Listen to what I mean, not what I say". :biggrin:

You are probably distracted getting ready for the approaching wedding. BTW, best wishes to you and your bride!
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      07-16-2008, 06:16 PM   #22
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There won't be much of a weight savings from the fenders.
OEM fenders are stamped sheetmetal and very thin (welding it was a nightmare) so they don't weight much to begin with.
Fiberglass requires quite a bit of layers and resin to make it sturdy enough, yet at times this makes them quite heavier than the OEM pieces they're replacing. Wet carbon is essentially the same as fiberglass. Dry carbon can be made as light as the OEM pieces if not slightly lighter, but you're not going to save much from that.

The whole point in replacing the front fenders is not so much for weight savings as it is being able to fit a larger wheel up front. Metal fenders are not feasible for low quantity production runs. Only OE manufacturers have the budget for that. Spares are always a must for racing. You never know...

Quote:
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If there are any weight savings when you make the carbon fenders, i will buy it. sign me up
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