[FISH22]

Just about finished with my KW HAS install, last corner, and a tool slipped and busted the level sensor arm (left, rear). Yay.

Question; I've epoxied the broken arm but not sure if it'll hold for long. I'm guessing the whole sensor will need replacement due to where it cracked. Anyone savvy with these little things? What kind of codes do these usually throw is the arm is detached? Impact to ECU?

If I do replace it, is there any sort of calibrating required or 'zeroing out'? Appreciate any assistance!

[mattssi]

The epoxy will hold just fine. There isn’t much movement really. No codes were thrown on mine and no calibration needed. Depending on what you broke you’ll either spend $10 or like $70 to get a replacement.

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by mattssi

The epoxy will hold just fine. There isn’t much movement really. No codes were through on mine and no calibration needed. Depending on what you broke you’ll either spend $10 or like $70 to get a replacement.

Good stuff, thanks!

[Tommyboy1771]

Sorry to hijack the thread but haven’t heard of anyone else DIY’ing the KW springs. Did you need any specialty tools? And any tips for install?

Thanks in advance.

[MarineRaider]

Same happened to mine by the installer...they glued it and I drove with it for weeks while they got the replacement...they are stand up but I never would have known.

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by Tommyboy1771

Sorry to hijack the thread but haven’t heard of anyone else DIY’ing the KW springs. Did you need any specialty tools? And any tips for install?

Thanks in advance.

The only specialty tool I had to buy was a 18mm shock top nut socket (12 pt) off of Amazon. Spring compressors are also required for the fronts. I will say, while it was a pretty straight forward job, there were a couple steps that crushed my sole, mainly because I was on jackstands and didn't have a shop press...

Removing the front spring perches from the original shocks is a pain without a shop press. Very slow and steady job of tapping with a hammer. Also, and I've seen this mentioned before, getting the rear camber bolt back in can be a pain on jackstands, and not much room to torque (120 ft lbs).

I made a thread a couple months ago with some DIY question, and someone shared this link:

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1595398

It's a different model, but the techniques and tools still apply. Check it out, it helped me with the install.

Originally Posted by MarineRaider

Same happened to mine by the installer...they glued it and I drove with it for weeks while they got the replacement...they are stand up but I never would have known.

Looks like my epoxy fix held for the first drive, we'll see what time tells.

[iviegatron]

I broke my rear ride height sensor too. I superglued it in place and it was perfect. Being anal I replaced it anyways. Costed $45. I knew I had to disconnect it when doing the install, it just slipped my mind.

[HolyChitMeng]

Does anyone have the part number?

[///MeraldCity_G82]

Originally Posted by HolyChitMeng

Does anyone have the part number?

Look up BMW Tacoma parts. They have diagrams and parts are easy to find.

https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/a/BMW...r/33_2840.html

[HolyChitMeng]

Originally Posted by ///MeraldCity_G82

Look up BMW Tacoma parts. They have diagrams and parts are easy to find.

https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/a/BMW...r/33_2840.html

Thank you so much!
Nice to know, realoem doesn't list these cars at all for some reason.

Just ordered from them, hopefully it comes by the end of the week.

[FISH22]

FYI - my epoxy job on the sensor arm has been holding perfectly for the last few months and about 3k miles.

Makes me laugh that my $90k car has an epoxy job

[nearwater4me]

Originally Posted by iviegatron

I broke my rear ride height sensor too. I superglued it in place and it was perfect. Being anal I replaced it anyways. Costed $45. I knew I had to disconnect it when doing the install, it just slipped my mind.

Funny that I remember reading this thread and STILL managed to break the sensor arm.
The Evolve video I watched said the sensor needs to be undone on the 'passenger's side', so ahead I went and started working on the driver's rear camber arm.
Guess what, the driver's side is the passenger's side in UK

Like some members here, I used acrylic adhesive, left it overnight followed by a layer of epoxy glue.
Bond was pretty hard after a couple of days and seems like it's holding fine so far.
What a dumb mistake lol.

[herbnlegend]

Originally Posted by nearwater4me

Funny that I remember reading this thread and STILL managed to break the sensor arm.
The Evolve video I watched said the sensor needs to be undone on the 'passenger's side', so ahead I went and started working on the driver's rear camber arm.
Guess what, the driver's side is the passenger's side in UK

Like some members here, I used acrylic adhesive, left it overnight followed by a layer of epoxy glue.
Bond was pretty hard after a couple of days and seems like it's holding fine so far.
What a dumb mistake lol.

Installed the H&R sport springs onto my M4 comp xd (equivalent to the super sport springs on RWD models).

I, too, watched a video that said the sensor was on the passenger side. WELP IT'S ON THE DRIVERS SIDE IN THE US lol. I broke mine like a toothpick. Superglue has been holding for about 50 miles so far. I also used some wire to hold it together. No codes.

[spridge]

Originally Posted by herbnlegend

Installed the H&R sport springs onto my M4 comp xd (equivalent to the super sport springs on RWD models).

I, too, watched a video that said the sensor was on the passenger side. WELP IT'S ON THE DRIVERS SIDE IN THE US lol. I broke mine like a toothpick. Superglue has been holding for about 50 miles so far. I also used some wire to hold it together. No codes.

I don’t think you’ll ever see codes, even if it breaks again. More likely, you’d notice that your headlights are suddenly pointed toward the ground and won’t level out as normal.

[herbnlegend]

Originally Posted by spridge

I don’t think you’ll ever see codes, even if it breaks again. More likely, you’d notice that your headlights are suddenly pointed toward the ground and won’t level out as normal.

Ah. Thank you. I wasn’t certain what role that sensor played.

[nearwater4me]

Originally Posted by herbnlegend

Installed the H&R sport springs onto my M4 comp xd (equivalent to the super sport springs on RWD models).

I, too, watched a video that said the sensor was on the passenger side. WELP IT'S ON THE DRIVERS SIDE IN THE US lol. I broke mine like a toothpick. Superglue has been holding for about 50 miles so far. I also used some wire to hold it together. No codes.

I think we'll be fine most likely.
That arm does not bear much load, just enough to rotate the sensor.

[FISH22]

Mine is still holding after a year

[markoz28]

I broke my sensor arm as well. Used gorilla glue and not a hiccup. Its probably stronger at the break than anywhere else on the arm now. lol

[RACE M3]

I’m assuming it’s plastic. Plastic welders are cheap and easy to use. I’d glue it back together and it’ll be good as new. I’ve fix bumper and headlight tabs with one a few times over the years successfully.

[mattssi]

Originally Posted by RACE M3

I’m assuming it’s plastic. Plastic welders are cheap and easy to use. I’d glue it back together and it’ll be good as new. I’ve fix bumper and headlight tabs with one a few times over the years successfully.

I used JB weld on mine and it was fine. But I couldn't not think that I have a busted ass piece on the car, so I replaced it.

Either approach functions the same though.