[FISH22]

For all of the DIY'ers out there… suspension work is pretty straight forward. Besides the standard sockets, wrenches, etc., are there any specialty tools required for removing and installing springs or a HAS kit? In some videos, it looks like some are using a special open socket for the front shock tower nut. The rear seems to be ridiculously simple.

Any advice on tools to make the job easier would be appreciated, thanks!

[mattssi]

Rears are just a little misleading as you need some good clearance to get any torque to remove or re-torque the bolts. Other than that, I generally agree it's pretty simple Will need a 9mm and 10mm I believe for the leveling sensor.

18mm strut nut socket. Kind of a PITA to use but it works.

I also used a 90 degree pick tool to remove the rubber mounted brake line (I think brake line) to the struts in the front. It made it very easy to remove and install again.

I used a plastic pry tool on the engine bay plastics clips holding the panels and the strut cable plugs. Lots of people use screwdrivers, but I didn't want to scratch up ANYTHING, so I went the safest route.

Other than that, I used every combination of wrenches and torque wrenches to get in where I needed.

Just make sure to be careful, torque things properly, jack up the rears before tightening bushings down, etc. And you may as well replace those TTY bolts especially if the dealer has 'em in stock.

Also, here is a great write-up. Doesn't 100% apply, but very close.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1595398

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by mattssi

Rears are just a little misleading as you need some good clearance to get any torque to remove or re-torque the bolts. Other than that, I generally agree it's pretty simple Will need a 9mm and 10mm I believe for the leveling sensor.

18mm strut nut socket. Kind of a PITA to use but it works.

I also used a 90 degree pick tool to remove the rubber mounted brake line (I think brake line) to the struts in the front. It made it very easy to remove and install again.

I used a plastic pry tool on the engine bay plastics clips holding the panels and the strut cable plugs. Lots of people use screwdrivers, but I didn't want to scratch up ANYTHING, so I went the safest route.

Other than that, I used every combination of wrenches and torque wrenches to get in where I needed.

Just make sure to be careful, torque things properly, jack up the rears before tightening bushings down, etc. And you may as well replace those TTY bolts especially if the dealer has 'em in stock.

Also, here is a great write-up. Doesn't 100% apply, but very close.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1595398

Thanks so much, tons of valuable info! I just stumbled upon your thread. Good stuff!

Happy to hear about the diff being an authorized jack point. I was stumped thinking about how I'd get the rear end up and emplace jack stands.

[iviegatron]

Originally Posted by FISH22

Thanks so much, tons of valuable info! I just stumbled upon your thread. Good stuff!

Happy to hear about the diff being an authorized jack point. I was stumped thinking about how I'd get the rear end up and emplace jack stands.

I would not use the diff as a jack point. It's all fins, you're going to end up bending them. To jack the rear up, I lift the car from the front jack point high enough where I can place a jack stand on the rear jack point. Repeat on the other side.