[mousefarmer]

I bought a 2006 330i N52 beater a year or so ago and fixed a variety of issues. However, one thing still is an issue that is concerning.

When I first changed the oil after getting the car the tiny little oring was missing on the oil filter. The copper crush washer was also missing on the oil drain plug.

I figured those "idiots" forgot to put on the o-ring for the oil filter housing just like they forgot the crush washer; however, after the oil change I did with the new o-ring when I went to pop it off for the new one it was hard and brittle.

The big oring was fine, however. It has been about 5000 miles since the last oil change. I also have an N51 and F30 N55 car and neither one have hard little o-rings when changing.

There are warning or check engine codes so I'm just wondering what may be causing this. The engine runs a little bit warmer than the N51 but its more power. I don't think it runs hotter than the N55 engine though.

My guess is maybe there is a faulty oil pressure sensor or engine temperature sensor even though its not throwing a code. Does anyone have any input?

[hassmaschine]

When you get a new filter kit, it comes with all the o-rings and you're supposed to replace them. Sounds like whoever changed it before was lazy and just left the old one in place.

What issue are you actually having? it's just running slightly warmer? are you talking oil or coolant?

[mousefarmer]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

When you get a new filter kit, it comes with all the o-rings and you're supposed to replace them. Sounds like whoever changed it before was lazy and just left the old one in place.

What issue are you actually having? it's just running slightly warmer? are you talking oil or coolant?

a disintegrating oring is normal?

[aphael]

Disintegrating oring is not normal. Are you talking about a small oring that is also on the filter? Check Realoem, they should have diagrams for everything. It seems like you are unsure if there is supposed to be an oring there.

[lookalikehuuh]

What brand o-ring did you install?

[mousefarmer]

Originally Posted by aphael

Disintegrating oring is not normal. Are you talking about a small oring that is also on the filter? Check Realoem, they should have diagrams for everything. It seems like you are unsure if there is supposed to be an oring there.

yes the tiny oring on the filter. The filter has two orings a large one and a small one. The small one is hard and brittle.

It seems that you are unable to read and comprehend the text I wrote. I've replaced the oring(s) & the filter along with the oil. I'm aware that the oring is supposed to be there. It is hard and brittle. New rubber orings are not supposed to be hard and brittle after 5000 miles. Do you understand now?? I don't need to see a diagram. Looking at a diagram isn't going to resolve an oring that is hard and brittle.

[mousefarmer]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

What brand o-ring did you install?

The one from the liquid moly oil change kit from FCP Euro. Mann It comes with the two orings and the crush washer along with the filter.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427566327kt-lm

[mousefarmer]

I haven't done anything unusual to the car since my oil, filter & oring(s) change other than replacing the eccentric shaft sensor after the car had rough starts and eventually failed to start. It runs fine now.

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by mousefarmer

The one from the liquid moly oil change kit from FCP Euro. Mann It comes with the two orings and the crush washer along with the filter.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427566327kt-lm

Yeah so my theory about it being maybe a poor quality unit is out the window. the Mann filters is what I have been using on my 330i since 2006 when I bought it and they have been absolutely rock solid.

Any chance your oil temps tend to be higher than normal?

[Efthreeoh]

The OE small oil ring is green, so I'll refer to it as the "green o-ring" to avoid confusion. MANN is one of BMW's OEM for the filter, so if you got a MANN HU-816x filter with the FCP oil change kit, the box should have a green o-ring in it. After some 40 oil changes between my two N52 engines, the green o-ring has been a bit harder than a new one, but never been brittle, and still pliable. I follow the long OCI schedule so some of the green o-rings have been in service for over 17,000 miles.

So based on a description of hard and brittle after just 5,000 miles I'd call very unusual.

On my E46, the M54 oil filter kit from MANN doesn't contain the green o-ring even though the filter cap uses one. On the E46 I change out the green o-ring out every other oil change. I've not noticed any degradation of the green o-ring. Maybe this was just a one off instance?

[mousefarmer]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

The OE small oil ring is green, so I'll refer to it as the "green o-ring" to avoid confusion. MANN is one of BMW's OEM for the filter, so if you got a MANN HU-816x filter with the FCP oil change kit, the box should have a green o-ring in it. After some 40 oil changes between my two N62 engines, the green o-ring has been a bit harder than a new one, but never been brittle, and still pliable. I follow the long OCI schedule so some of the green o-rings have been in service for over 17,000 miles.

So based on a description of hard and brittle after just 5,000 miles I'd call very unusual.

On my E46, the M54 oil filter kit from MANN doesn't contain the green o-ring even though the filter cap uses one. On the E46 I change out the green o-ring out every other oil change. I've not noticed any degradation of the green o-ring. Maybe this was just a one off instance?

I don't think its a one off thing because I've change the oil many times for two other BMWs using the same oil change kit with the same oring without issues. I just did the oil change yesterday on the N55 one and its oring was fine after 5000 miles.

I'm suspecting maybe a failing sensor is leading to the oil running hotter than usual or perhaps the oring is not being coated in a steady supply of oil.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by mousefarmer

I don't think its a one off thing because I've change the oil many times for two other BMWs using the same oil change kit with the same oring without issues. I just did the oil change yesterday on the N55 one and its oring was fine after 5000 miles.

I'm suspecting maybe a failing sensor is leading to the oil running hotter than usual or perhaps the oring is not being coated in a steady supply of oil.

Next step is to get a BMW scan tool and record some live data to confirm your suspicions. I save several green o-rings in cease I need one. Even after sitting stored, they are still in good shape.

I hope you get it solved.

[mousefarmer]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Next step is to get a BMW scan tool and record some live data to confirm your suspicions. I save several green o-rings in cease I need one. Even after sitting stored, they are still in good shape.

I hope you get it solved.

Thanks, that sounds like a good deal. I'll have check and see if my chinese scanner does oil pressure live data or else use INPA or ISTA.

I noticed some of the oil filter gasket kits come with the oil pressure switch. I didn't change that switch, only gasket. Its like $5 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ch-12611710509

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

…After some 40 oil changes between my two N62 engines…

Aha!

Turns out you’ve never even owned an N52! Probably just a spy working for the N54 forums…

Well played, sir.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by e90yyc

Aha!

Turns out you’ve never even owned an N52! Probably just a spy working for the N54 forums…

Well played, sir.

Lol. N52, N62... whatever it takes.

[hassmaschine]

Consider yourself lucky if you've never had the misfortune of owning an N62 powered BMW, lol.

[mousefarmer]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Consider yourself lucky if you've never had the misfortune of owning an N62 powered BMW, lol.

Its hard enough maintaining a 6 cylinder non turbo e90. Add a turbo and/or more cylinders, no thanks I have to do more with my time than work on BMWs and buy parts. Thats why I skipped the N54 and N62.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Consider yourself lucky if you've never had the misfortune of owning an N62 powered BMW, lol.

Even if it was just a typo.

[TunafishE93]

I use the same Mann filter from FCP in a n55, the little o ring does get hard by the time oil change is due (5000 miles also). Its not to the point that it breaks apart but doesn't have the elastic it had when it went in. This has been consist for the last four oil changes.

[mousefarmer]

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

I use the same Mann filter from FCP in a n55, the little o ring does get hard by the time oil change is due (5000 miles also). Its not to the point that it breaks apart but doesn't have the elastic it had when it went in. This has been consist for the last four oil changes.

Yeah this is hard like a rock with zero flexibility and cracks when I pry it out. I just did N55 one at 5,000 and it was still mushy and flexible when taking out.

[Mantraxalos]

Originally Posted by mousefarmer

Yeah this is hard like a rock with zero flexibility and cracks when I pry it out. I just did N55 one at 5,000 and it was still mushy and flexible when taking out.

How much hotter is your car running compared to the others?
I know my 06 330i does run hotter than my 06 325i ever did, but I haven't experienced any issues with that oring that I change about every 7500mi.

The temps on the 330i during summer months bounce between 82C - 106C depending on my driving style. My 06 325i rarely exceeded 96C and I drove it similarly.

I only used Mann or Genuine filters.

[mousefarmer]

Originally Posted by Mantraxalos

How much hotter is your car running compared to the others?
I know my 06 330i does run hotter than my 06 325i ever did, but I haven't experienced any issues with that oring that I change about every 7500mi.

The temps on the 330i during summer months bounce between 82C - 106C depending on my driving style. My 06 325i rarely exceeded 96C and I drove it similarly.

I only used Mann or Genuine filters.

I'll have to check next time. Usually I just put a temperature gun on the engine afterwards and see how warm it is since it doesn't have a gauge for temperature but next time will get out the code reader and see.