[tardboi]

Suddenly today 335I N55 was slow to change gears, and I had to floor it up a hill to get to work. I'm not sure what limp mode is like- it was still willing to rev, just no power.

After parking, it was really noisy, I assume oil cooler running?

Hidden menu showed coolant temp (-128c)(culprit??) and oil temp in the high 50s (typically to 90+ by getting to work)

Any ideas?



I should mention I installed CTS intake on Sunday, car drove normal then and Monday. Only other oddity is I have 20 miles of gas range.

I don't see how either of those would make coolant temp read wrong. It's 0c outside.

___________

Update: It was the transmission heat exchanger thermostat.

[COKen]

Pull the codes. They should give you a place to start your search.

[jcarv20]

Anything else besides the intake?

[jgoens]

You may have what happens to me every few months--there is a fan error that causes the cooling fan to run crazy and puts the car in a half limp mode. Usually it will happen after I have started the car back up. It will drive seemingly normal but will feel sluggish and the fan will be running hard. The easy remedy is shutting the car off and back on. I have pulled codes after this has happened and they are a minor fan error which lead to possibly replacing the fan.

Due to it happening rarely, I have not done anything as of now but it has been happening for more than a year now. These cars have sensitive electronic sensors and what I would call gremlins that will give codes and various limp modes from time to time that are probably not worth fixing .

Many of us have had full limp modes and drivetrain malfunctions that happen once or twice a year and never return. How much time and money are you going to spend trying to find something that is probably just a false alarm.

[floridaorange]

Originally Posted by jgoens

How much time and money are you going to spend trying to find something that is probably just a false alarm.

Pretty sure this is exactly the wrong kind of advice you should give someone in this situation, on a BMW message board.

[tardboi]

Thanks for the input everyone. I'll respond when after work.

In the mean time, any recommended app to read codes? I think there's veapeak bt obd in my car.

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[tardboi]

Checked on lunch, still -128c, but now has CEL. Will try to get the codes..

[dmaxdmax]

Did you happen to disconnect something when you installed your intake and forget to plug it back in...like an ambient air temp sensor? Not sure where it is but it's someplace and seems like yours is either broken, disconnected, or has a worn wire.

I'd start there...but also, I'd put gas in the car. I thought I'd read something about the car going into a 'super eco-mode' when you're low on gas...maybe I was drinking at the time.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by tardboi

Thanks for the input everyone. I'll respond when after work.

In the mean time, any recommended app to read codes? I think there's veapeak bt obd in my car.

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Easiest is with Torque app. Not sure if you had a tune--but most have code checkers as well. If those ones don't point you to the source, the one that is the best and what I use when I really need to know what is going on is ISTA-d. You can get that on the forums on your PC and you plug your car into your computer. That is what dealers use to use.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by floridaorange

Pretty sure this is exactly the wrong kind of advice you should give someone in this situation, on a BMW message board.

No, this can be completely true and Mechanics and dealers will tell you this as well. Real problems will not get better and will reoccur with regularity and need to be resolved. If you can live with a limp mode once or twice a year and the car runs great then good, or you can spend hours and hours or hundreds of dollars chasing. I was giving my experience regarding a fan fault that happens a couple times a year--his situation may be different.

[tardboi]

Gentlemen, here are the codes from Bimmerlink -

Central Gateway Module: CD0487
Digital Engine Electronics: 1D2008
Electronic Transmission Management: CF2DE2
Integrated Automatic Heating: 801237, E71408, E7143A
Roof Function Centre: 030205

Unlikely related codes: 8011C1, 802A1E, 030205, 8041A8, D90D29

I see nothing related to intake/MAF - so I guess that's good? Looks like... bad sensor? Or water pump or coolant level?

[floridaorange]

Originally Posted by jgoens

No, this can be completely true and Mechanics and dealers will tell you this as well. Real problems will not get better and will reoccur with regularity and need to be resolved. If you can live with a limp mode once or twice a year and the car runs great then good, or you can spend hours and hours or hundreds of dollars chasing. I was giving my experience regarding a fan fault that happens a couple times a year--his situation may be different.

Originally Posted by jgoens

No, this can be completely true and Mechanics and dealers will tell you this as well. Real problems will not get better and will reoccur with regularity and need to be resolved. If you can live with a limp mode once or twice a year and the car runs great then good, or you can spend hours and hours or hundreds of dollars chasing. I was giving my experience regarding a fan fault that happens a couple times a year--his situation may be different.

Hmm, well that's all code for me to sell the car then.

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by tardboi

Gentlemen, here are the codes from Bimmerlink -

Central Gateway Module: CD0487
Digital Engine Electronics: 1D2008
Electronic Transmission Management: CF2DE2
Integrated Automatic Heating: 801237, E71408, E7143A
Roof Function Centre: 030205

Unlikely related codes: 8011C1, 802A1E, 030205, 8041A8, D90D29

I see nothing related to intake/MAF - so I guess that's good? Looks like... bad sensor? Or water pump or coolant level?

I've never used Bimmerlink. Can you clear the codes with that? And if you can, do any codes re-appear? And does your car drive normal now?

[tardboi]

Originally Posted by jcarv20

Anything else besides the intake?

No, just intake.

Originally Posted by jgoens

You may have what happens to me every few months--there is a fan error that causes the cooling fan to run crazy and puts the car in a half limp mode. Usually it will happen after I have started the car back up. It will drive seemingly normal but will feel sluggish and the fan will be running hard. The easy remedy is shutting the car off and back on. I have pulled codes after this has happened and they are a minor fan error which lead to possibly replacing the fan.

Due to it happening rarely, I have not done anything as of now but it has been happening for more than a year now. These cars have sensitive electronic sensors and what I would call gremlins that will give codes and various limp modes from time to time that are probably not worth fixing .

Many of us have had full limp modes and drivetrain malfunctions that happen once or twice a year and never return. How much time and money are you going to spend trying to find something that is probably just a false alarm.

Well, after multiple starts it's still reading erroneous coolant temp, so I don't think mine is gonna go away

Originally Posted by dmaxdmax

Did you happen to disconnect something when you installed your intake and forget to plug it back in...like an ambient air temp sensor? Not sure where it is but it's someplace and seems like yours is either broken, disconnected, or has a worn wire.

I'd start there...but also, I'd put gas in the car. I thought I'd read something about the car going into a 'super eco-mode' when you're low on gas...maybe I was drinking at the time.

Possibly, I didnt spot anything obvious. Gas did not solve the issue but I was hopin' haha.

Originally Posted by jgoens

Easiest is with Torque app. Not sure if you had a tune--but most have code checkers as well. If those ones don't point you to the source, the one that is the best and what I use when I really need to know what is going on is ISTA-d. You can get that on the forums on your PC and you plug your car into your computer. That is what dealers use to use.

Thank you, I will try the Torque app as well to see if it finds anything different from Bimmerlink.

Originally Posted by jgoens

I've never used Bimmerlink. Can you clear the codes with that? And if you can, do any codes re-appear? And does your car drive normal now?

I believe it can clear codes. It still drives funny. On the way home, coolant temp still reads -128c, oil temp went up to 105c in hidden menu (normal, instead of the 55ish on the way to work - that's real cold) - however, the gauge cluster still showed oil temp at min (less than 70c/unmoved from rest position).

Shifting was still funny. Still weak, but I didn't push it. It seems to want to hold high gears.

[tardboi]

Couldnt find anything funny. Unplugged battery and still got codes; started up rough.

If there was a MAF error (i.e. intake) I'd see it, right? Nothing here clues into it being the intake at all AFAICT

[jimbobiggens]

https://bmwfault.codes/

This may help

[tardboi]

Originally Posted by jimbobiggens

https://bmwfault.codes/

This may help

Thanks, I've went thru all the codes (forgot to include E12C1C)

They all come up as "consequential faults", or otherwise are not likely related to the issue here (sunroof, seat heater, rear defrost...) with the exception of 1D2008, which says

"Check lines and plug connections between the following components:
- DME.
- Coolant temperature sensor."

I think I found both (i'm not entirely sure), and they seemed fine.

DME wiring I assume is under this plastic cover:

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Coolant wiring connection is behind the MAF in this picture

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If anyone can advise as to whether or not I am looking at the right area, please do. I checked all over regardless and everything seemed fine, but maybe I missed the fault ones.

Thanks again everyone for your input.

[2000Z3M]

charge pipe?

[tardboi]

Originally Posted by 2000Z3M

charge pipe?

Wouldn't there be air related errors? I don't see anything broken.

The coolant and oil temps read correct today but still has CEL. Cleared codes and will see what comes back.



I couldn't get the torque app to see my OBD adapter, btw

EDIT: Cleared codes after getting to work; got home and no new errors. Starting to look like what jgoens said happened to him. If it happens to you again, check to see if your coolant is -128c.

[Eschmacher]

KhristianF30 Sounds exactly like your problem as well.

[tardboi]

Originally Posted by Eschmacher

KhristianF30 Sounds exactly like your problem as well.

Good find. Seems like this problem - at least similar to this one, is not that rare.

Now I just wonder if I'm the only one to look in the hidden menu for coolant temp. Only reason I looked is because it made no sense the oil gauge hadn't moved after 10 miles of driving.

[Eschmacher]

Something tells me this is the result of the coolant temp sensor or the wiring/connections to it being faulty, which causes the DME to panic and cut power.