[FullTimeD]

So, I've been reading around the net for a few days before making this post, and I can't find anyone who's had the same issue (at least not described the same way). Closest I got was a 330d, but that turned out to be glow plug related, so that's not applicable here.

I stopped to get gas on the way to work the other day, and when I went to start the car again, I got nothing. No click, no crank, nothing. It's like it wouldn't even try.

So, you get in your car (non-comfort access), the ignition is Off until you put your fob in the receiver, then once your fob is in, the ignition is On (think like an older, turn-key ignition). You get a few lights on the dash, but not much else. Then, if you're not starting the car, you press the Start/Stop button, and you get the ACC position of ignition, right? Well, my car is never going to that "ACC" position.

I click the fob in, get lights on the dash, radio turns on, foot on the clutch, press the start button, and then... nothing! The ignition switches to the off position, and all my lights, and radio and everything go out! It's like it's got Off and On, and no ACC.

Because of this, I think that the battery (read 12.5V), and starter are fine, and I don't think the clutch position switch has anything to do with it either. It's like I'm not even getting the opportunity to start the car.

I tried the ole "turn it off and back on again" approach by disconnecting the battery, and letting everything drain for about an hour. When I hooked it back up though, it got worse. Now, my fob won't unlock the doors, or release the trunk. I'm wondering if it's the CAS relay? I checked the 5A and 30A ignition fuses, and pulled the CAS relay, but couldn't really test it (I'm limited on tools).

I also used Carly to run diagnostics, and it came back with a laundry list!!!



This is my daily, and I don't have another car right now, so any help getting me back on the road asap is very greatly appreciated!!!

[vilord]

If you could include a short video showing putting in the key and pushing start/stop with and without your foot on the clutch, that could be useful.

It sounds like you have a multimeter. You measured the battery voltage at the battery I am assuming.
Can you measure the voltage in the engine bay, from the 12V terminal to the body ground, and then again measure from the 12V terminal to the engine? Just any metal bit of the engine should work, like the alternator bolts or something.

It could be one of your ground straps or one of the +12v feeds has gone bad.

[FullTimeD]

Try this link. I couldn't embed the video:

View post on imgur.com

That is foot on the clutch at first, and then off. Everything is a 1:1 ratio, meaning button press : Lights off is one cycle, then button press : Lights on is another. It's not just going haywire.

Thanks for your reply, btw.

[vilord]

So it is going to ACC, our cars do that when you put the key in the slot... but instead of going to CRANK (single press with clutch depressed) or ON (single press without clutch), it is just turning off.
Odd!

My car is comfort access, and I've only owned e9x's with CA, but in mine when the starter failed it had a relay click sound and then a yellow exclamation point on the dash, so I think you're right that it is not the starter or battery.

If it was me, the first thing I'd check is the multimeter checks I mentioned above, then I'd start up ISTA/D, look at the recommended test procedure for the codes it finds, and then test the various "terminals", and see if the CAS is registering the clutch pedal.

Ideally you'll want the official BMW tools and cable (50 bucks for the cable from https://www.bimmergeeks.net/product-...eeks-pro-cable and the tool is free https://www.bimmergeeks.net/downloads and runs on any windows laptop made within the last 10 years). With that, you could trigger the relays directly and see the result, and with ISTA/D (Rheingold is another name for the same thing) it would tell you what to test as you go through the steps.

[gbalthrop]

At least one of us needs to "adjust his concept" of "Accessory/Radio ON" vs. "Ignition ON."

Some Tests to help us help you:
(0) BEFORE you do anything, use a DME/Multimeter to check voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood & record the voltage.
(1) On my 2007 328xi, when you insert the Remote Key in the Insert Compartment (NOT Convenient Access), Terminal R is active: the Radio plays and the Windows operate (the power seats operated BEFORE you inserted the Remote Key). Please try doing JUST that in your vehicle & reporting what works/lights/operates.

(2) When you THEN press START, WITHOUT pressing the Brake Pedal on AT, or Clutch on MT, Terminal 15 is active: Ignition is ON, Instrument panel indicators light, Climate Control functions, and electrical systems in the vehicle should operate except the engine has NOT started yet. Please test that & report results.

(3) THEN Press Clutch pedal to floor, and press START button (ONCE ONLY). Do NOT press STOP or remove Remote Key during remainder of test. You should at LEAST get one or more "click" sounds from the Starter Solenoid area. Note what now lights or systems operate, and AGAIN measure battery voltage at Jumpstart Terminals, recording voltage.

If you will let us know the results of those tests, we can suggest next steps. Your Carly at least does a credible job of reading Fault Code NUMBERS in all modules, but does a terrible job of DEFINING or EXPLAINING those codes and their details. The following are DEFINITIONS of the more significant of those Fault Codes, found by plugging the 4-character "Hex-code" into BMW Fault Code Lookup: http://www.bmwfault.codes/

DME Module (Engine Control Module):
2E8D | DME: Intelligent battery sensor, signal transmission | msv70 | Engine electronics
2E8E | BSD, message; intelligent battery sensor (IBS): Missing | msv70 | Engine electronics
2E8C | DME: Intelligent battery sensor, function | msv70 | Engine electronics
2DC3 | DME: Monitoring, terminal 15 | msv70 | Engine electronics

CAS Module (Car Access System):
A114 | CAS: Line fault, el. steering lock | cas | Car Access
A111 | CAS: Fault, ELV external powering | cas | Car Access System
A0B2 | CAS: Supply, terminal 30E/30L | cas | Car Access System

Those Code Definitions are STILL very general (INPA or ISTA would give better information), but they suggest a problem with proper voltage at terminal 15 (Ignition Relay Terminal), and CAS Power Supply. It is the CAS that your remote key sends radio signals to, via the Aerial Diversity, and the CAS Module sends an "Unlock" signal to the JBE to activate the Unlock relay to allow entry. I presume from your description, THOSE Remote Key Lock/Unlock functions are working?

The CAS Module sends the "Start Signal" to the Starter Motor when the START button is pressed with Clutch Pedal pressed on MT. So from your description, either that signal is NOT being sent, OR the battery is failing the "Load Test" the starter presents on every startup. If you find ~ 10V at the Jumpstart Terminal after attempting starter engagement, your battery is bad, OR at least its connections to the Chassis and Jumpstart Terminals are faulty.

Here is the CAS TIS circuit for your 2006 330i:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/r14Nexa

I note that your video shows Air Bag/MRS warning lights, and as you see you have MULTIPLE IBS Fault codes. Has anyone disconnected the Battery recently? The BST (Battery Safety Terminal) if NOT properly reconnected would cause the "Air Bag" or MRS (Multiple Restraint System) warning light, and improperly connected IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) connectors would cause the IBS/BSD bus Faults you show in the DME Memory. Loose Battery Terminals, either (+) or (-) could cause what you describe, as I understand your descriptions so far.

George

[FullTimeD]

Jesse and George, thank you both for your detailed responses!!

The latest is that I went out to run some more tests, and my fob wouldn't lock/unlock, or release the trunk. I thought CAS. Opened with the key, and put my meter across the jump terminals under the hood. <9V. Now I'm thinking parasitic draw.

Put my very tiny jump pack on the terminals, and my mirrors unfolded. Hmm, ok. That means the battery was drained. Put the fob in the receiver, and I got the various HVAC adjusting noises, could hear the little whine of the fuel pump, and this time when I pressed the Start button, it actually tried to turn over!!! My little pack couldn't swing it though, so I wanted to charge the battery and get it tested.


Took the battery out, and went to the parts store for a charge and a test, honestly hoping it would fail, but it came back clean. Tested at 13.04V, and 768CCA.

Brought the battery home, put it back in the car, and fired 'er right up. Just like normal. Like nothing had ever happened.

Meter across the + in the engine bay, and the - terminal on the chassis: ~12.92V

Meter across + and engine: ~12.93V

Meter at battery: ~12.89V

Lights/Heat/Radio all on or all off seemed to have no effect one way or the other.

These tests tell me that the starter, alternator, ignition, fuel, and battery are all fine (?).


Shut the car off, and tried to restart, and I was right back where I started. Same exact symptoms. Let the car sit overnight, and tested with the meter again this morning - ~11.62V. Put my little jump pack on it, and it never got above 11.94V? That seems a little strange, but could be nothing I guess.


George, to answer some of your questions, it does seem like there is a 3-step ignition: OFF- ON - ACC

OFF (Step 0 - no key), there is nothing
ON (Step 1 - Key in, no clutch, Start not pressed), I get radio, a couple warning lights on the dash, and that's it
ACC (Step 2 - Key in, no clutch, Start pressed one time), all features of ON, plus climate controls

Currently, I'm only getting to Step 1; when I put the key in, I get ON functions. When I press the Start button once, all functions turn off (regardless of clutch in or out). Pressing Start once more turns on Step 1 functions again.


With the battery being out of the car for so long, I'm sure a couple codes reset, and it was back to a clean-ish slate, which is why I think it started. Once it ran for a couple minutes to do the above tests with the meter, I think whatever the issue is cropped back up. Once I tried to restart, whatever the issue is was present again, preventing start up.

SOMETHING is keeping this car from starting, and I'm at a loss.

Help me, Obi-Wan Kenobi, you're my only hope!

[Mike Whitney]

I've heard of this problem before and it was a bad IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor). Quick google search for those IBS related codes (eg 2E8B) in your scan shows multiple people with similar problems, remedied with a new IBS.

This guy just disconnected the IBS altogether and it fixed his no-start (5-series, but same system):

[FullTimeD]

Originally Posted by Mike Whitney

I've heard of this problem before and it was a bad IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor). Quick google search for those IBS related codes (eg 2E8B) in your scan shows multiple people with similar problems, remedied with a new IBS.

This guy just disconnected the IBS altogether and it fixed his no-start (5-series, but same system):

HOLY SANTA CLAUS SHIT!! That did it! Those were my exact issues, exactly as he showed and described in the video! I just went out to my car, disconnected the IBS, and it fired right up! Shut down, and it fired up again, and again, and again!!

I know those ISB codes showed up, but honestly didn't know what they meant, and, as you saw, I unfortunately had a good number of codes to dig through. I was honestly thinking maybe that CAS relay, or dead/dying battery in my fob. Something not reading, or being recognized to allow the car to start.


This is awesome news!! I will order the replacement, and hopefully the disconnect keeps me on the road for a couple days until it gets here.


All of you guys really helped me out here, and rather than being d-heads who just say "SEARCH", you actually put thought into what's happening, and used knowledge and experience to help me out! You guys saved me a couple hundred bucks without a doubt, and I can't thank you enough!!

[vilord]

Great news!

I recommend getting a new-style IBS, one of the ones from a 2010-2012. It won't have a black plastic cover on it. The older style IBS modules had lots of problems. When I had my IBS connected in my '07, it would drain and/or not charge the battery, so for years I left it disconnected and things worked okay. Installed a used one from a 2012 car and it worked even better.