[Explorerlyon]

Looking at purchasing a very well priced 2006 330i, but it has 180,000 miles. So well priced, not worth paying for a PPI. Only 2 owners, all service done at BMW dealers. Water pump replaced at 135K. No oil leaks. Drives great and feels great, but I doubt any suspension was ever replaced.

With that many miles, other that suspension being worn, what else would concern you? Yes, I know an engine could cease or a tranny go out. Other than that, what is COMMON at this high mileage?

[Ins_328]

I mean, you'll still want to put some kind of aftermarket suspension on it anyway so there you have a reason.
And as long as you getting good deal for the buck and don't hear any bad noises or any other type of mechanical sound with no visible leaks in the oil pan and etc I would just buy it because you never know, can't read the future.
Water pump, oil pan, vcg, ofhg, fuel pump. Should be it My 2010 Dodge caravan that I used for work lived 430k on the original motor. Would you believe it? Sold it with 586k on second motor

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by Explorerlyon

Looking at purchasing a very well priced 2006 330i, but it has 180,000 miles. So well priced, not worth paying for a PPI. Only 2 owners, all service done at BMW dealers. Water pump replaced at 135K. No oil leaks. Drives great and feels great, but I doubt any suspension was ever replaced.

With that many miles, other that suspension being worn, what else would concern you? Yes, I know an engine could cease or a tranny go out. Other than that, what is COMMON at this high mileage?

I have been in many E9x cars in my life. I have seen 230k cars in better shape than a 110k car. If it has been taken care of then go for it.

[Efthreeoh]

180,000 miles on a 2006 E90 is nothing, it's barely broken in at that point.

What options does it have? So it sounds like you have access to the service records or no? Is it a manual transmission or automatic? Where was the car driven, i.e. in what part of the country? A car from northern states will show rust on a lot of the under-hood hardware like the strut mount nuts, and the engine block will be pitted with white zits. But the E90 has great rust protection built into it and after being on E90 post for 13 years, I've really never seen anyone post that their car has major rust issues. Mine doesn't and I drive lots of miles on salted roads during the winter.

2006 E90 are built like a tank. My 2006 325i (same basic engine as the 330i) has over double that mileage and runs like a top; I still daily drive it 175 miles a day, 4 days a week. At that age and mileage, the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, and oil filter housing should be leaking oil, well maybe not the valve cover. But if they are not, then that means the repairs have probably already been made. The way to tell is the bolts. The factory bolts for the engine bolts that thread into the magnesium engine block are marked with light blue paint because they are aluminum. However, BMW after several years, around 2012 or so, stopped marking the aluminum bolts with blue paint, so the bolts holding down the valve cover and oil pan will be blue-headed bolts from the factory (i.e. the gasket is original) and non-blue headed if the gasket repair was done. The 330i has two DISA valves in the intake manifold. Older versions of BMW DISA valves have been known to fail (especially on the E46 with the M54 engine), but the N52 DISA valves seem to be more robust parts, not many people on E90 Post have reported failures. Again, not that expensive of a repair.

The OFH bolts are steel because they thread into the aluminum cylinder head. If the OFHG was done, the Torx heads of the bolts usually get a little chewed up, so look at the bolt heads closely for signs of wrenching on them.

The original thermostat was aluminum bodied, so it is silver. The N52 (engine) in the early cars were known to have the thermostat fail. BMW upgraded the T-stat from the aluminum body to a plastic body replacement. The plastic bodied replacement is brown. If the engine has a brown T-stat on it then it was changed out at some point. The replacement water pump was upgraded and lasts far longer than the original part number. My pump died at 149,000 and the replacement has gone 226,000 miles so far.

You don't say what the price is, but if it is under $4,000 then buy it. There is not much that goes wrong with the 2006 model year that can't be remedied for $500. The engine is almost bullet-proof as is the manual transmission and differential. The clutch is really robust, but the dual-mass flywheel is not as robust. So if the car you are looking at is a manual, it should still be on it's original clutch, unless it was abused or improperly driven. The dual-mass flywheel can fail, but it is more like in the 250,000 mile range if it even does. And, at 180,000 miles, that is the time the oil life monitor system goes defunct (on purpose by BMW). What that means is come around 220,000 miles, you'll not be able to reset the CBS to start the next oil service interval and the car will dig at you every time you shut off the engine to notify you the engine is in need of an oil change (when it actually isn't in need of one). It's not a big deal because there is a software coding fix for it, which codes out the oil life monitoring system, and most people don't follow BMW's extended oil change interval anyway.

The suspension is probably in need of new struts and rear shock absorbers. You'll see a lot of people here replace all the bushings and control arms on the suspension as far less mileage than 180,000, but unless the car was city driven on really crappy roads, the other suspension parts are probably still in good shape. My car has all the original rear end control arms and bushings at 375,000. The front end has new thrust arms (I've done them twice now) and control arms and tierods. The control arms and tierods I replaced at 336,000 miles for the first time (I bought my car new). My car sees a lot of high-speed back road driving.

The real concern I'd have is if the radio faceplate fades when it get hot; but it's an easy $100 fix you can send the radio out for if you don't like taking electronic components apart and soldering.

And last question... do you DIY?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Ins_328

I mean, you'll still want to put some kind of aftermarket suspension on it anyway so there you have a reason.
And as long as you getting good deal for the buck and don't hear any bad noises or any other type of mechanical sound with no visible leaks in the oil pan and etc I would just buy it because you never know, can't read the future.
Water pump, oil pan, vcg, ofhg, fuel pump. Should be it My 2010 Dodge caravan that I used for work lived 430k on the original motor. Would you believe it? Sold it with 586k on second motor

Fuel pumps on the N52 are not an issue.

[Schmitz]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

180,000 miles on a 2006 E90 is nothing, it's barely broken in at that point.

What options does it have? So it sounds like you have access to the service records or no? Is it a manual transmission or automatic? Where was the car driven, i.e. in what part of the country? A car from northern states will show rust on a lot of the under-hood hardware like the strut mount nuts, and the engine block will be pitted with white zits. But the E90 has great rust protection built into it and after being on E90 post for 13 years, I've really never seen anyone post that their car has major rust issues. Mine doesn't and I drive lots of miles on salted roads during the winter.

2006 E90 are built like a tank. My 2006 325i (same basic engine as the 330i) has over double that mileage and runs like a top; I still daily drive it 175 miles a day, 4 days a week. At that age and mileage, the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, and oil filter housing should be leaking oil, well maybe not the valve cover. But if they are not, then that means the repairs have probably already been made. The way to tell is the bolts. The factory bolts for the engine bolts that thread into the magnesium engine block are marked with light blue paint because they are aluminum. However, BMW after several years, around 2012 or so, stopped marking the aluminum bolts with blue paint, so the bolts holding down the valve cover and oil pan will be blue-headed bolts from the factory (i.e. the gasket is original) and non-blue headed if the gasket repair was done. The 330i has two DISA valves in the intake manifold. Older versions of BMW DISA valves have been known to fail (especially on the E46 with the M54 engine), but the N52 DISA valves seem to be more robust parts, not many people on E90 Post have reported failures. Again, not that expensive of a repair.

The OFH bolts are steel because they thread into the aluminum cylinder head. If the OFHG was done, the Torx heads of the bolts usually get a little chewed up, so look at the bolt heads closely for signs of wrenching on them.

The original thermostat was aluminum bodied, so it is silver. The N52 (engine) in the early cars were known to have the thermostat fail. BMW upgraded the T-stat from the aluminum body to a plastic body replacement. The plastic bodied replacement is brown. If the engine has a brown T-stat on it then it was changed out at some point. The replacement water pump was upgraded and lasts far longer than the original part number. My pump died at 149,000 and the replacement has gone 226,000 miles so far.

You don't say what the price is, but if it is under $4,000 then buy it. There is not much that goes wrong with the 2006 model year that can't be remedied for $500. The engine is almost bullet-proof as is the manual transmission and differential. The clutch is really robust, but the dual-mass flywheel is not as robust. So if the car you are looking at is a manual, it should still be on it's original clutch, unless it was abused or improperly driven. The dual-mass flywheel can fail, but it is more like in the 250,000 mile range if it even does. And, at 180,000 miles, that is the time the oil life monitor system goes defunct (on purpose by BMW). What that means is come around 220,000 miles, you'll not be able to reset the CBS to start the next oil service interval and the car will dig at you every time you shut off the engine to notify you the engine is in need of an oil change (when it actually isn't in need of one). It's not a big deal because there is a software coding fix for it, which codes out the oil life monitoring system, and most people don't follow BMW's extended oil change interval anyway.

The suspension is probably in need of new struts and rear shock absorbers. You'll see a lot of people here replace all the bushings and control arms on the suspension as far less mileage than 180,000, but unless the car was city driven on really crappy roads, the other suspension parts are probably still in good shape. My car has all the original rear end control arms and bushings at 375,000. The front end has new thrust arms (I've done them twice now) and control arms and tierods. The control arms and tierods I replaced at 336,000 miles for the first time (I bought my car new). My car sees a lot of high-speed back road driving.

The real concern I'd have is if the radio faceplate fades when it get hot; but it's an easy $100 fix you can send the radio out for if you don't like taking electronic components apart and soldering.

And last question... do you DIY?

I take great comfort in reading your posts.

[smass]

06 N52s have some issues that newer ones don't have as often

Aluminum valve cover bolts break and leak (most likely already fixed)
Oil pan bolts break and leak
Head bolts that secure the timing cover area break and leak
The crankcase vent hose on the back of the valve cover falls apart

[smass]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Fuel pumps on the N52 are not an issue.

Agreed. Fuel pumps are not an issue but people are starting to have issues with fuel pressure regulators leaking. It is then difficult to unhook these hoses unit without damaging the brittle fuel pump.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/16117163295/

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by smassey321

06 N52s have some issues that newer ones don't have as often

Aluminum valve cover bolts break and leak (most likely already fixed)
Oil pan bolts break and leak
Head bolts that secure the timing cover area break and leak
The crankcase vent hose on the back of the valve cover falls apart

Mine has not had any breaking bolt issues; it's an April 2006 build. The CCV hose did break when I was replacing the ESS (i.e. valve cover), but I field repaired it quite effectively with a copper pipe fitting and JB Weld However, I'll counter that if an engine can get to the mileage mine has with basically (extended) oil changes, plugs every 100,000 miles, coolant changes every 100,000 and a water pump and T-stat and an ESS (which wasn't really necessary - I got one code once), I'll take it any day of the week.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Schmitz

I take great comfort in reading your posts.

I think the N52 E90 is one of the best cars BMW has made. I had an E30 for 18 years as well, and while the E30 has a reputation as being one of BMW's best, I think the E90 is actually better.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by smassey321

Agreed. Fuel pumps are not an issue but people are starting to have issues with fuel pressure regulators leaking. It is then difficult to unhook these hoses unit without damaging the brittle fuel pump.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/16117163295/

Interesting. Thanks for the info. I've not seen anyone on E90 Post post about it.

[Explorerlyon]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

180,000 miles on a 2006 E90 is nothing, it's barely broken in at that point.

What options does it have? So it sounds like you have access to the service records or no? Is it a manual transmission or automatic? Where was the car driven, i.e. in what part of the country? A car from northern states will show rust on a lot of the under-hood hardware like the strut mount nuts, and the engine block will be pitted with white zits. But the E90 has great rust protection built into it and after being on E90 post for 13 years, I've really never seen anyone post that their car has major rust issues. Mine doesn't and I drive lots of miles on salted roads during the winter.

You don't say what the price is, but if it is under $4,000 then buy it.

The real concern I'd have is if the radio faceplate fades when it get hot; but it's an easy $100 fix you can send the radio out for if you don't like taking electronic components apart and soldering.

And last question... do you DIY?

AWESOME POST AND RESPONSE, thank you. More info:

Mostly drive in Arizona in the past. Clear coat is starting to fail in a couple spots (why can't people keep their cars waxed). Automatic and no record of the transmission fluid ever being changed. May have been done, but cannot prove it. There was a 100K service done at a BMW dealer, don't know if the dealers do the transmission change or not at that mileage. Do I take a chance and change the fluid now if I buy it? I can do a lot of DIY. No great options, does have sport seat but not the sports package. June 2005 build date.

Known Issues:
1. Needs front brakes (I can do that)
2. Rear window regulators (Every E90 I have looked at has window issues, I can fix that)
3. Radio display is dead. Owner did say it displays some in the cold morning.
4. Clear coat failing in a few spots
5. Car is red-japanrot (not my favorite color, but my son likes it).
6. Headlights are faded and need replacing (or restored)

Price: Only $3,200 with an extra set of brand new snow tires (car is now in winter climate). At that price, I can take a chance on the car and not worth paying for a PPI.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Explorerlyon

AWESOME POST AND RESPONSE, thank you. More info:

Mostly drive in Arizona in the past. Clear coat is starting to fail in a couple spots (why can't people keep their cars waxed). Automatic and no record of the transmission fluid ever being changed. May have been done, but cannot prove it. There was a 100K service done at a BMW dealer, don't know if the dealers do the transmission change or not at that mileage. Do I take a chance and change the fluid now if I buy it? I can do a lot of DIY. No great options, does have sport seat but not the sports package. June 2005 build date.

Known Issues:
1. Needs front brakes (I can do that)
2. Rear window regulators (Every E90 I have looked at has window issues, I can fix that)
3. Radio display is dead. Owner did say it displays some in the cold morning.
4. Clear coat failing in a few spots
5. Car is red-japanrot (not my favorite color, but my son likes it).
6. Headlights are faded and need replacing (or restored)

Price: Only $3,200 with an extra set of brand new snow tires (car is now in winter climate). At that price, I can take a chance on the car and not worth paying for a PPI.

Okay, so the sport seat thing is confusing. Sport seats only came with the sport package option, so a previous owner must have installed them, or the car does have the sport package option. The auto trans fluid change interval is 100,000 miles, it states so in the maintenance manual in the group of manuals that comes with the car, so I'd think a 100,000 mile service at a BMW dealership would have included a trans flush and fill.

The radio is an easy fix, though I've not yet done mine Headlights are typical. Arizona could have cooked the interior a bit, but you can see any results of that obviously.

The great thing is you DIY and there is so much free technical data available for a BMW DIY'er it is ridiculous. realoem.com and newtis.info are the only two resources you need for parts and repair information. Tons of online parts sellers, but I've found getBMWparts.com has the best prices. Get BMWparts is a BMW dealership in Silver Springs, Maryland and has excellent customer service (I used to be a walk-in customer for parts back 20 years ago). The other thing with BMWs is the parts availability. My 22 year old Z3 still has almost every part still available from BMW.

But really, the E90 is a very well built machine and they run practically forever. If you drove my car at the miles it has you'd not believe it. It's starting to scare me that it has lasted this long at the shape it is in, I'm starting to think it is possessed, or I sold my soul somewhere along the way and didn't realize it.

[Explorerlyon]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Okay, so the sport seat thing is confusing. Sport seats only came with the sport package option, so a previous owner must have installed them, or the car does have the sport package option.

You are right...I just checked the VIN decoder again.

S226A-Sports Suspension Settings
S481A-Sports Seat

[andy_06xi]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Okay, so the sport seat thing is confusing. Sport seats only came with the sport package option, so a previous owner must have installed them, or the car does have the sport package option. The auto trans fluid change interval is 100,000 miles, it states so in the maintenance manual in the group of manuals that comes with the car, so I'd think a 100,000 mile service at a BMW dealership would have included a trans flush and fill.

The radio is an easy fix, though I've not yet done mine Headlights are typical. Arizona could have cooked the interior a bit, but you can see any results of that obviously.

The great thing is you DIY and there is so much free technical data available for a BMW DIY'er it is ridiculous. realoem.com and newtis.info are the only two resources you need for parts and repair information. Tons of online parts sellers, but I've found getBMWparts.com has the best prices. Get BMWparts is a BMW dealership in Silver Springs, Maryland and has excellent customer service (I used to be a walk-in customer for parts back 20 years ago). The other thing with BMWs is the parts availability. My 22 year old Z3 still has almost every part still available from BMW.

But really, the E90 is a very well built machine and they run practically forever. If you drove my car at the miles it has you'd not believe it. It's starting to scare me that it has lasted this long at the shape it is in, I'm starting to think it is possessed, or I sold my soul somewhere along the way and didn't realize it.

I'll echo this. My 2006 330xi (May '06 build) with 143,000 miles is still going strong under daily driving duties in the Northeast. While I can do very light maintenance myself, I rely on an independent BMW guy for anything at all complex. It hasn't been in his shop for 2 years, and I have no plans to see him. I did replace a window regulator and the hood Bowden cable on my own. I should probably get the brake fluid changed - but a tester shows no moisture. Only current issue is a leaking oil pan gasket - but its been leaking for at least 2 years and doesn't seem to be getting worse.

[nsjames]

i bought an 08 at 100K miles and less than 30 days later I drove it across the country after I smashed fresh fluids in it.

I put 20K miles on it in 6 months.
It's been fantastic.

all of the afformentioned stuff I've done. Probably about $1500 in parts over the 100-145K miles span.

if it's been taken care of, it's solid

[smass]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Mine has not had any breaking bolt issues; it's an April 2006 build.

I have a theory that build date affects the breaking aluminum bolts. 4/06 build is the good thing for you. My 5/05 build had all the breaking bolts I mentioned above. My 9/05 build only had broken valve cover bolts.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by smassey321

I have a theory that build date affects the breaking aluminum bolts. 4/06 build is the good thing for you. My 5/05 build had all the breaking bolts I mentioned above. My 9/05 build only had broken valve cover bolts.

It sounds like the assembly tools were out of calibration or the factory was using an incorrect torque spec/procedure. Both my N52s are post-2005 builds.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

It sounds like the assembly tools were out of calibration or the factory was using an incorrect torque spec/procedure. Both my N52s are post-2005 builds.

I have a 6/06 build with no broken bolt issues.


As for the original post, that sounds like a great deal for the car. I'd go for it. I bought my 325i automatic (ZF) with 218K miles and no maintenance history other than a recent water pump, thermostat, and radiator replacement. I don't know when the transmission fluid was changed but based on the looks of it when I did a drain and fill I would guess it's either never been changed or maybe only once. Fresh fluid made it shift significantly better, and to date I have no issues and no reason to expect it to fail, though most of the 250K+ mile E90 reports are manual transmissions. If it does I'm not sure what I would do; $750+labor for a replacement or just buy another cheap E90.