[NFiftyWon]

Hi all,

I just DIY'd my brakes and rotors last night. when breaking them in, test driving, etc. I noticed an intermittent clicking/ticking sound coming from the rear passenger side wheel. I checked most of the related threads but was unable to resolve it. (No shrapnel in tire, no loose sensor cables, no issues with wheel hub; no loose lugs, guide pins, bolts; fender liner is secure, the metal caliper pin is correctly placed and secure)

The ticking increases and decreases in frequency relative to the speed. I switched the wheel with another and the noise was still coming from that area.

As far as i know the noise only started after switching the rotors and brakes.
Any ideas?

[bluewater328]

Have you checked the shield on the back of the hub? Maybe it got bent in the process?

Also you bedded the pads I assume and reinspected to make sure the piston wasn't seized?

Both are elements that wouldn't change if a wheel was swapped.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by NFiftyWon

...I just DIY'd my brakes and rotors last night. when breaking them in, test driving, etc. I noticed an intermittent clicking/ticking sound coming from the rear passenger side wheel...The ticking increases and decreases in frequency relative to the speed...

One more reason NOT to change rotors unless they are LESS than minimum thickness, "warped" or otherwise causing judder on braking.

Perhaps the adjusters on the Handbrake shoes are NOT adjusted correctly, or there is something NOT correct in the shoe assembly? Is your handbrake looser or tighter than it was before -- longer/shorter handle travel than before?

You might try loosening/tightening the adjuster/star-wheel on that wheel (after removing road wheel) and see if anything changes.

I had a friend with a Ford Escape that had a sound like that coming from the LR wheel area I was SURE had something to do with the rear brake shoes (NOT rear discs on that model). When I took the wheel off, I realized the sound was from the shock hitting the chassis. Upon closer inspection, the top mounting threaded area of the shock shaft had RUSTED so badly the shaft BROKE allowing the shock to just flop around.

So keep an open mind and inspect EVERYTHING closely.

George

[NFiftyWon]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

One more reason NOT to change rotors unless they are LESS than minimum thickness, "warped" or otherwise causing judder on braking.

Perhaps the adjusters on the Handbrake shoes are NOT adjusted correctly, or there is something NOT correct in the shoe assembly? Is your handbrake looser or tighter than it was before -- longer/shorter handle travel than before?

You might try loosening/tightening the adjuster/star-wheel on that wheel (after removing road wheel) and see if anything changes.

I had a friend with a Ford Escape that had a sound like that coming from the LR wheel area I was SURE had something to do with the rear brake shoes (NOT rear discs on that model). When I took the wheel off, I realized the sound was from the shock hitting the chassis. Upon closer inspection, the top mounting threaded area of the shock shaft had RUSTED so badly the shaft BROKE allowing the shock to just flop around.

So keep an open mind and inspect EVERYTHING closely.

George

1) tested handbrake. Handle has shorter travel it seems
2) will inspect aforementioned components after work
3) rust is unlikely, fairly dry climate & garage kept. Will check anyway
4) i just remembered that the rotor on this side wouldnt go on so i had to use the lug nuts to tighten the rotor onto the mounting surface, if that makes sense

[bluewater328]

Bearing also comes to mind, but I think that might be a long shot.

If you had to force the rotor down, are you sure you have it mounted correctly/squarely? Along with stuck pistons, a rotor that's not mounted properly could cause uneven wear (or unnecessary contact).

[Efthreeoh]

Probably the 1st time I disagree with gbalthrip (forgiveness requested), but I like to change rotors and pads together with new parts. But it does sound like the parking brake shoes are dragging. BUT, it could be just the silver coating having a high spot. I say let the rotors run in a few thousand miles, and the adjust the parking brake shoes.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by NFiftyWon

1) tested handbrake. Handle has shorter travel it seems [CLUE #1]
...
4) i just remembered that the rotor on this side wouldnt go on so i had to use the lug nuts to tighten the rotor onto the mounting surface, if that makes sense [CLUE #2]

BOTH TIS & Bentley say to adjust Parking Brake after replacing rear Rotors. BOTH ALSO say that it is ONLY recommended to replace the rotors when pads are replaced ON THE M3 (ahem "F30" ;-). Otherwise, measure disc thickness carefully at inner, center & outer annulus of swept area, examine for scoring, chipping, rust or other damage. If that examination reveals sufficient thickness and NO damage, "if it ain't broke, don't "fix" it" applies -- procrastinators REJOICE.

Here is the TIS procedure for Adjusting Handbrake:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-brake/GQ2VYKq

Bentley has similar procedure, and better description & photos, beginning @ 340-20, p. 607 of pdf (free online download per "E9x References pdf" attached).

Given that you had to force the drum over the shoes (using the lugs) and given the rotational speed-related noise, I would remove the disc, inspect the internals to make sure nothing got re-arranged when the drum was forced on over the shoes, reinstall the disc and then adjust handbrake (shoe clearance) per the procedure.

BEFORE removing the disc to do that I would back off the starwheel to retract the shoes from the inside of the drum, making the disc easier to remove (that one likely was a bit difficult to REMOVE to replace the disc?). Most procedures for removing rear discs that I have seen, where handbrake drums were incorporated in the discs, suggest retracting shoes BEFORE removal.

When you re-install the disc/drum, loosen star wheel/retract shoes if still difficult to get drum over shoes, and check back for tips if you STILL have to use force to install over shoes. Old-school saying: "A mechanic's skill is inversely proportional to the size of his hammer."

George

[NFiftyWon]

Update: upon further inspection. I was able to determine the cause of the problem. The parking brake return spring had become partially disconnected. Thanks for the feedback. The tensioner still works fine