[rjd_F30]

Hey folks,

Kind of an odd-ball thread topic, but: My CPO warranty and Extended Maintenance plan both expire the 22nd of this month. Included in whatever Maintenance Plan I got when the car was purchased is a free brake job, pads and rotors. I never used it, but I can feel and see both through the pedal feel and by looking at the brakes themselves that they're going to be due for replacement soon. So I went to the dealer to hopefully cash in on my free brake job before the plan expires. The limit for them to replace the brakes under the Maintenance Plan (i.e. free to me) is 4mm on the pads. My rears are 5mm, my fronts are 7mm. They confirmed that all rotors are eligible for replacement. However, because my pads are above 4mm, they said they can't do any work, on the pads or the rotors. They won't replace the rotors independently of the pads obviously, and I wouldn't want them to, but because the pads are not eligible for replacement, neither are the rotors. I was obviously pretty unhappy with this, so I spoke with the Service Manager, and this is what he told me: We can't do any work on the brakes under the Maintenance Plan as you're brakes don't meet the replacement threshold. I asked, politely and professionally, if there was any way he could just help me out and do the job because I'm so damn close on the pads (the rears at least) and the rotors are ready to be replaced. He responded by saying that the brakes have to go back to BMW after replacement under the plan in order for it to be covered, and so I should go and drive around, and essentially try to wear out my brakes as much as I can, then come back on Friday to see if I'll qualify. I don't have anything going on this week, so I told him I'll see him on Friday. (I would've waited to come back the day the maintenance plan expires, but I'll be away, so this week is my last chance).

TL;DR: Just barely not eligible for brake replacement under maintenance plan, Service Manager told me to go wear them out and come back in 48 hours. I said you're on.

So my questions are as follows:

1. Is it true that they have to send my old brakes to some corporate BMW office in order for the work to be covered by the plan? Sounds a bit fishy to me, but I suppose it could be true.

2. How can I wear out my brakes as quickly as possible? My driving style is very kind to brakes typically, so I guess I'm going to have to drive like my father always taught me not to: ride the brakes. I'd go do a track day, but I don't want to wear on the rest of the car, and that's typically not an option this time of year. I don't want to just keep my foot on the pedal driving around, as that makes the engine work harder to keep speed, and is a nuisance to drivers behind me. Should I brake light and early, or hard and late? Just rack up miles?

EDIT: After writing and re-reading this, I feel like I sound like a moron asking for the most efficient way to wear out my brakes, but whatever. Any ideas on how to get those pads down an extra mm in 48 hours, and I'd appreciate it.

[BeerHerder]

Back when I was first learning to drive, if my brakes squealed, I would take it up to about 65-70mph, then slam on the brakes just prior to the point of lockup to "re-surface" them... at least that's what my dad told me. Seems like it might work. I grew up in the country, so we would do this on back roads with nobody around so I wouldn't be brake-checking someone on the interstate.

[jmg]

Yes, this is true they need to be 4mm or less. The best way to wear out brakes is to track the car!

BeerHerder has it right. From a high speed you need to apply quick and firm pressure (about 85-90%) right before the ABS kicks in. This is best done on the track or in the backroads. No need to come to a complete stop, but slow enough to enter the corner and then EASE off the brake as you hit the apex, then full throttle once you are pointed straight into the next turn, rinse and repeat. Don't forget to allow for active cool down (drive moderately for 5-10 min after the session) or your wheel weights will pop off.

[Gbtr6]

Do you have a bench grinder.... just sayin'.

Perry

[328iX]

You can try driving with your left foot on the brake, or at night, go to an open road and do several 80-0 stops to simulate track abuse haha

[Fliplegend]

Originally Posted by jmg

Yes, this is true they need to be 4mm or less. The best way to wear out brakes is to track the car!

+1. A couple hot laps at Buttonwillow or Laguna Seca will take care of that no problem. Another way would be to go on the highway during off peak and take an exit ramp as if it was a corner at a track....brake late, hard, hit the apex and power out.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Is it true that they have to send my old brakes to some corporate BMW office in order for the work to be covered by the plan?

Probably not, but they probably do have to hold on to any parts replaced under warranty for inspection by BMW. The dealer I worked at did. Once inspected the warrantied parts were marked so that they couldn't be used again as proof of warranty work done, after which they were hauled off to a scrap metal facility.

[floridaorange]

Power break 360's - just bring oil to get the parking lot nice and slick.


Jk don't do that.

[kern417]

I worked as a warranty engineer. We didn't always request parts back, but sometimes we did if the failure seemed fishy or if we needed help with root cause analysis.

For a maintenance plan we never did. However, I only worked on new vehicles (not CPO) so all maintenance was scheduled. It may be different for CPO plans that include wear items.

Also it sounds like you kind of thought about it, but putting abnormal wear on your brakes while driving around town will definitely put abnormal wear on other components. Dragging brakes will put extra wear on your transmission, wheel bearings, etc. Just be careful if you're that committed.

[rjd_F30]

Thanks for all the replies.

I know a track day would be best, and after the one I did last summer, I noticed that my brakes certainly took a beating, as expected. It would be ideal, but only having 48hrs prevents me from doing that, sadly.

Either way, noted all suggestions and will get out and get to work on these brakes. Seems like high speed, high pressure slow-downs are the way to go. I was just out on my favorite backroad for nearly an hour giving them a workout, thankfully it's nice enough weather for it to be safe and enjoyable. I'll keep at it lol.

Also- to the folks who commented about them having to send parts back/keep parts for verification, thanks for your input. Good to know they're not BS'ing me on that part, or at least not entirely.

I'll update on Friday when I go back into the dealer regarding whether or not I was successful.

[CalCarNut]

Yep..CPO was 4mm minimum on wifes X3 too. They wouldn't do it. These pads are pretty hardy so I doubt you can wear 1mm down in a week or so.....

[Kailec]

Ask if they can just grind that last mm off for you... Lol

[Derek Mc]

Do you have access to a machine shop who can use a belt sander to grind the pads down?

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by CalCarNut

Yep..CPO was 4mm minimum on wifes X3 too. They wouldn't do it. These pads are pretty hardy so I doubt you can wear 1mm down in a week or so.....

May be so, but I'm still gonna try.

Originally Posted by Derek Mc

Do you have access to a machine shop who can use a belt sander to grind the pads down?

Probably could find one, but I don't really feel like doing that. Sort of dishonest, and a hassle.

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by Gbtr6

Do you have a bench grinder.... just sayin'.

Perry

This is a better and safer solution than driving the car hard or in abnormal manner on short-term basis to run the pads down-

Of course you could just pass on the freebie thing and DIY pads and rotors when the time comes - pretty darn simple job and not very costly.

[skyline408]

I know time is of the essence, but i'm willing to bet if you put a WTB on BMW forms for old worn brake pads--you could easily find a set.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by Wgosma

This is a better and safer solution than driving the car hard or in abnormal manner on short-term basis to run the pads down-

Of course you could just pass on the freebie thing and DIY pads and rotors when the time comes - pretty darn simple job and not very costly.

It's definitely a simple DIY, and if they don't give me the freebie that's the route I'll go. They need replacing anyway, so if I get the free job, great, if not, I do it myself. No harm in trying to get it done under the maintenance plan as I see it.

[Picklezenator]

I just got a used 2013 f30 and the discs on it have noticeable indents on them. Its my first car so im not too sure when i should get them changed out. Any advice?

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by Picklezenator

I just got a used 2013 f30 and the discs on it have noticeable indents on them. Its my first car so im not too sure when i should get them changed out. Any advice?

Pull a wheel off and use a pair of calipers to measure rotor thickness - minimum Allowable thickness is usually stamped (in mm) on rotor edge or hub.

[chiefneil]

I’d probably lightly left-foot brake while maintaining a constant speed instead of doing high-speed stops. Doing that for a half hour at highway speeds (be safe!) would probably do the trick. Give the brakes a little break (see what I did there?) every few minutes so you don’t warp your rotors or boil the fluid. Definitely stop if the brake pedal starts to feel soft.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by chiefneil

I’d probably lightly left-foot brake while maintaining a constant speed instead of doing high-speed stops. Doing that for a half hour at highway speeds (be safe!) would probably do the trick. Give the brakes a little break (see what I did there?) every few minutes so you don’t warp your rotors or boil the fluid. Definitely stop if the brake pedal starts to feel soft.

That's what I thought would work best, but as kern417 mentioned and I touched on in the OP, when I tried that, it puts more strain on the drivetrain to power through the stopping force of the brakes, which is of course something I'd like to avoid. Maybe I was putting too much pressure on the brake. I might try again with really light brake pressure and see if I can do it in a way that feels a bit easier on the engine and trans.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

That's what I thought would work best, but as kern417 mentioned and I touched on in the OP, when I tried that, it puts more strain on the drivetrain to power through the stopping force of the brakes, which is of course something I'd like to avoid. Maybe I was putting too much pressure on the brake. I might try again with really light brake pressure and see if I can do it in a way that feels a bit easier on the engine and trans.

You have an X-Drive, so I would totally advise NOT doing this. Most of the braking force is in the front wheels and X drive will divert power to the wheels with the most traction, which it will think are the fronts because it's getting the most resistance. Continuously doing this for prolonged periods of time will put more stress on your drivetrain and differentials than if you were just RWD. Just do it naturally, get up to speed and apply strong pressure to your brakes without locking. Again, do some cool down.