[M.chowdhury1]

I have a 318d with a problem my mechanics cannot fix, it would crank but not start, new battery has been put it but still nothing. He reckons its an ECU problem and I don't have the time to deal with it anymore.. down below is a pic of the symbols in dashboard.

However now I am wondering if I should either buy a e46 soft top convertible for a year while I save for another e90 or do I get like a 2004 plate 1 series?

[dpaul]

Your mechanic does not sound competent.

He should have been able to read the error codes to get some idea of where the problem lies before randomly replacing parts (i.e. battery). If he did not do that, or only used a generic code reader, you definitely need a new mechanic

A DME, should that be the issue, can be purchased used for ~$100 and the necessary programming another $200-250 (a dealer cannot do that - aftermarket provider is necessary). You're going to buy a another car for that?

[M.chowdhury1]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Your mechanic does not sound competent.

He should have been able to read the error codes to get some idea of where the problem lies before randomly replacing parts (i.e. battery). If he did not do that, or only used a generic code reader, you definitely need a new mechanic

A DME, should that be the issue, can be purchased used for ~$100 and the necessary programming another $200-250 (a dealer cannot do that - aftermarket provider is necessary). You're going to buy a another car for that?

No error codes were shown and he opened this box under the bonnet and found wires being drained in water..he told me I need a new ecu as the car thinks I have none .. I spent all night yesterday with 3 different mechanics they all said different things so I just got it towed home I'm so gutted

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by M.chowdhury1

No error codes were shown and he opened this box under the bonnet and found wires being drained in water..he told me I need a new ecu as the car thinks I have none .. I spent all night yesterday with 3 different mechanics they all said different things so I just got it towed home I'm so gutted

If there is water in the E-box where the DDE (ECU for Diesel engines) is located (at firewall/ bulkhead and Right Wing on LHD cars) then there are a number of possible causes of lack of ECU function. Obviously, if the ECU/DDE does NOT get power, it cannot power/ activate the glow plugs and pulse the injectors, so the engine cranks with NO sputter since there is NO fueling & no ignition. Also, if the ECU/DDE has no power, a scan tool connected to the OBD II socket will NOT connect to the DDE & read codes which may be present.

If you can use a multimeter and follow a circuit diagram for the DDE power supply, let us know. Otherwise, find ANY decent shop who can follow a circuit diagram and test for power. However, the FIRST thing one must do is to identify the correct circuit diagrams for your car.

In order to do that, one must (a) know precisely which engine version you have (b) know the Month/ Year of assembly (on driver door frame plate/ sticker) and (c) the last 7 characters of your VIN. If you will provide that information I will provide correct TIS circuit diagrams & component locations.

Whoever does it, here are the steps I would suggest:

1) IMMEDIATELY get the water out of the E-box and use a heat gun or blow dryer to dry the ECU/DDE and ALL of its connectors. If you are lucky, water in the E-box has NOT irreparably damaged the DDE, but it has either caused one or more of the fuses related to the DDE to blow, or prevented the DDE from operating the DDE Relay, and proper drying and fuse replacement MAY restore operation.

2) Put the car in a garage or under a waterproof cover so that MORE water does NOT get into the E-box.

3) Determine what failed to allow water to get into E-box and correct that issue so the same does NOT recur.

4) Using a multimeter, test for power to the DDE using the following circuit (to make sure this is the correct circuit for your vehicle, post the last 7 characters of your VIN and I will enter it in TIS to make ensure correct schematic). There are at least TWO (2) possible power circuits -- here are examples:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...onics/CkSxoqvD
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/hGG7sTK

Please provide the requested information & indicate if you can do the "E-box dryout" and multimeter voltage tests (with directions we provide), and with any luck, you won't have to replace anything but a fuse or two.

George

[M.chowdhury1]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

If there is water in the E-box where the DDE (ECU for Diesel engines) is located (at firewall/ bulkhead and Right Wing on LHD cars) then there are a number of possible causes of lack of ECU function. Obviously, if the ECU/DDE does NOT get power, it cannot power/ activate the glow plugs and pulse the injectors, so the engine cranks with NO sputter since there is NO fueling & no ignition. Also, if the ECU/DDE has no power, a scan tool connected to the OBD II socket will NOT connect to the DDE & read codes which may be present.

If you can use a multimeter and follow a circuit diagram for the DDE power supply, let us know. Otherwise, find ANY decent shop who can follow a circuit diagram and test for power. However, the FIRST thing one must do is to identify the correct circuit diagrams for your car.

In order to do that, one must (a) know precisely which engine version you have (b) know the Month/ Year of assembly (on driver door frame plate/ sticker) and (c) the last 7 characters of your VIN. If you will provide that information I will provide correct TIS circuit diagrams & component locations.

Whoever does it, here are the steps I would suggest:

1) IMMEDIATELY get the water out of the E-box and use a heat gun or blow dryer to dry the ECU/DDE and ALL of its connectors. If you are lucky, water in the E-box has NOT irreparably damaged the DDE, but it has either caused one or more of the fuses related to the DDE to blow, or prevented the DDE from operating the DDE Relay, and proper drying and fuse replacement MAY restore operation.

2) Put the car in a garage or under a waterproof cover so that MORE water does NOT get into the E-box.

3) Determine what failed to allow water to get into E-box and correct that issue so the same does NOT recur.

4) Using a multimeter, test for power to the DDE using the following circuit (to make sure this is the correct circuit for your vehicle, post the last 7 characters of your VIN and I will enter it in TIS to make ensure correct schematic). There are at least TWO (2) possible power circuits -- here are examples:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...onics/CkSxoqvD
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/hGG7sTK

Please provide the requested information & indicate if you can do the "E-box dryout" and multimeter voltage tests (with directions we provide), and with any luck, you won't have to replace anything but a fuse or two.

George

Thank you so much George !!!!

I will defiantly go tomorrow to a garage as I'm only 19 I have no idea how to read these diagrams but I will certainly show him your post and hopefully the car will come back alive

I actually felt really sad when the tow truck had to tow me home after leaving the car park for 2 days going back and fourth with different mechanics to try start it up. It's a very sad experience especially when I took care of it with love and effort. I only work just to insure this car and enjoy it :'(

[lowrydr310]

Wow that car's a beauty. Whatever is wrong, fix it, don't trade that for a E46. I wish the 318d with 6MT was available here.