[wsbc]

Like some others before me, when I got my 2016 M2 I dreamed of making it into an M2 GTS. I wanted something street legal but that was very focused for heavy track duty. I also didn't want a build that looked like an aftermarket parts bin exploded on the car...so I focused on making it look as OEM as possible.

You can see extensive write ups, parts list, and pictures on my motor club website located here https://www.siliconvalleymotorclub.com/m2-build/ but I will do some lighter updates to this thread.

I am about half way done with the build so be on the lookout for updates soon. For now here is where I am in the project.

What's been done:
- lots of M performance cosmetic parts
- coding to switch to Euro MDM, and knock out some error codes when the front seats were removed
- Apex wheels and Nitto NT01 tires (275 square set up)
- Dinan intake and tune and resonator delete
- KW clubsport suspension and adjustable camber plates

What's in progress:
- Sparta Evolution BBK
- M performance racing steering wheel with electronic display
- Cobra Imola seats (reupholstered in OEM leather, Alcantara, and Polar Blue stitching)
- custom half cage powder coated white and rear seat delete panels also upholstered to match OEM interior
- fire suppression system and electrical cut off fabricated into center console

Still in planning stage:
- carbon fiber adjustable splitter
- carbon fiber adjustable racing wing
- carbon fiber canards and side skirts

I will post pictures soon but also check this website for more details https://www.siliconvalleymotorclub.com/m2-build/

[SeanWRT]

First thing to do, remove Dinan box.

You want to track you need full data access. With Dinan, your boost, AFR, timing and even IAT reading are incorrect - I verified that statement in 2016.

On stock turbo, you need a very customized tune that runs a little less boost than all the OTS currently in the market. Try get power from upper rev range with timing advance. Focus on AFR to keep EGT in check and that improve timing as well. HPFP/LPFP is not remotely your problem.

TBH, hardware wise. Seat & wheel for lightweight, brake and tire for grip, Clubsport damper for cornering, and intercooler/dp/inlet/tune for power. Above those, you'll have very diminished return as you spend to push.

[wsbc]

Thanks SeanWRT for your thoughts. I will have to play around with the tune and engine mods as you suggested to find the right balance given my goals.

On your other ideas I totally agree. Some of this I have done and other things I am in the process of doing. I have moved to a lighter and wider tire and wheel set up but will tweak further as I get more track time in and find the weaknesses. Brakes are the weakest part of all BMW's so by going to a Sparta BBK with 6 in the front and 4 in the back with track specific pads and slightly larger rotors should all help. I also will likely need front brake air intakes to reduce heat (need to test and tune that assumption). Intercooler is something I want to look into after I get everything else done first so that I can isolate the impact of the changes as I do them. Your comment on spend to push is 100% on point, yet I am also looking to achieve a vision (sometimes void of logic) but your point is taken.

Thanks again for the feedback.

[MR_M2]

What time are you running at Laguna with this setup?

[HODLM]

Originally Posted by SeanWRT

First thing to do, remove Dinan box.

By "box", do you mean the intake?

[wsbc]

Originally Posted by MR_M2

What time are you running at Laguna with this setup?

I haven't hit the track with the brakes and suspension yet as they just went on. With tires and wheels I am running low 1:40's at Laguna but hoping to get to high 1:30's after the build is done. I will report back once I have official times.

[TampaF87]

Originally Posted by HODLM

By "box", do you mean the intake?

He is referring to Dinan tuner.

OP, The factory brakes clamp well. The issue with the factory brakes is heat and pads. Larger rotors for better heat management, and some Motul 660 fluid is the biggest improvement for heat, and track pads of course. Brake ducting is a great addition to maintaining rotor/pad life. I'd be interested in seeing your solution for duct placement.

[wsbc]

Originally Posted by TampaF87

He is referring to Dinan tuner.

OP, The factory brakes clamp well. The issue with the factory brakes is heat and pads. Larger rotors for better heat management, and some Motul 660 fluid is the biggest improvement for heat, and track pads of course. Brake ducting is a great addition to maintaining rotor/pad life. I'd be interested in seeing your solution for duct placement.

Factory brakes do well on the street and light track use but not heavy track use. Here is what I have found in my experience with the M2 on the track. I first tried the factory brakes all stock and had fade within one session and by the end of the day the brakes where shot. I then did another track day but I had racing fluid and track pads. It was better but still had some fade near the end of the session yet my brakes were not shot at the end of the day. So a big improvement but not good enough for heavy and consistent track use.

I am putting on a Sparta Evolution kit that has the same sized rotor up front but 10MM larger in the back....so not a big difference over stock but that is mostly a function of the stock rotors already being large. The bigger difference is that the front will be 6 versus 4 and the rear will be 4 versus 2. That will mean harder more direct braking and thus I will need to hang on the brakes for less time. This will certainly increase my braking confidence and allow me to brake later but we will have to see how the heat builds under this new dynamic.

I am almost certain I will need front air intakes. There is a kit from Germany for the M2 but it is very expensive. I am likely going to do a custom fab option where I take the air from the front splitter and bring it back to modified heat shields that have a cut out and intake tube welded on. I will post pictures and results when I have them later in May.