[BeastMode335i]

Is there any way to diagnose our speaker system without actually removing each speaker and physically testing them? Perhaps an on-board system test somehow?

I have the Harman Kardon system in my 2013 F30 and I'm certain something happened to one of my bass speakers yesterday. The bass in my car has always been very solid and pronounced, and I've learned what songs have the best bass tones for the music I listen to.

Well yesterday I got in my car and put on Pandora and the song that began playing was not very loud at all, so I turned up the volume because I thought it was on low, but it was actually just the beginning of this specific song that was intentionally very low and the song suddenly started playing VERY loud so I immediately turned it down. As I sat for a second listening to it I knew it didn't sound right, and was missing the thumping bass that it had before, and was more just mids and highs. So I tried a different song that I knew had good bass, and yeah, it's definitely not there like it was before. There's no distortion or anything, it's just missing that thumping bass like it had before, and it may only just be one speaker because it sounds like it's almost there, but I just know it's not especially when I put on a song that normally thumps, because it doesn't now.

My assumption is that I blew one of the bass speakers, and I figured I'd start with the under seat subs, but just figured I'd ask if there's a way to diagnose them from the HU without actually tearing all the speakers out and testing them with an ohm meter or something.

Thank you!

[BeastMode335i]

So I put my hand on the underseat subs, door panel speakers, dash speaker, and rear shelf speakers, and I can feel the pressure of the speakers all working, but i'm definitely missing that low bass tone after this whole incident happened. I have no distortion either, just missing that low thump that was present before all this transpired.

[Billfitz]

Check your EQ, it might have inadvertently been changed.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

So I put my hand on the underseat subs, door panel speakers, dash speaker, and rear shelf speakers, and I can feel the pressure of the speakers all working, but i'm definitely missing that low bass tone after this whole incident happened. I have no distortion either, just missing that low thump that was present before all this transpired.

You most likely used the second key and the system set itself to the second set of stored settings when detecting that key. If you never set them to that key, probably flat default.

If they were blown, you’d hear it.

[BeastMode335i]

Hey guys, thanks for the feedback. I actually keep my spare key at home in my safe and I didn't change any of the settings since I bought the car a few weeks back. That's why I'm so confused lol, all the things I've thought of have fell short of being logical.

[Billfitz]

Stuff happens, can't hurt to take a look.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Stuff happens, can't hurt to take a look.

So I did a test today with some help from glennQNYC in regards to my issue..

I went on YouTube and listened to this Audio Sound Test 70hz sample, where it plays that same tone for like 5 minutes. In that time I moved the balance from Front to Rear and Left to Right, in all criss cross patterns. I noticed once I have it on the Front Left setting, the bass diminishes pretty significantly and I hear a weird static type of buzzing noise. Once I shift the balance from Left to Right, the noise steadily goes away and the bass becomes more pronounced.

I'm thinking I found my culprit, and that my under seat driver side woofer is almost dead. This may be kind of redundant, but I'm not a huge audio guy so forgive me if it is, but when playing that constant 70hz tone, aren't the two under seat woofers the only speakers that I'd really hear bass come from, since all the rest are drivers and tweeters?

Thanks!

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

when playing that constant 70hz tone, aren't the two under seat woofers the only speakers that I'd really hear bass come from, since all the rest are drivers and tweeters?

No, for two reasons. One is that the crossover that sends the lows to the woofers and the mids to the mid drivers isn't brick wall, there's quite a bit of low content that makes its way to the mids and mid content that makes its way to the woofers. The other is that 70Hz wavelengths are too long- 16 feet, to be exact- for you to be able to tell the direction that they're coming from. That's a good thing, because it's what allows the woofers to be placed under the seats in the first place.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

No, for two reasons. One is that the crossover that sends the lows to the woofers and the mids to the mid drivers isn't brick wall, there's quite a bit of low content that makes its way to the mids and mid content that makes its way to the woofers. The other is that 70Hz wavelengths are too long- 16 feet, to be exact- for you to be able to tell the direction that they're coming from. That's a good thing, because it's what allows the woofers to be placed under the seats in the first place.

Thanks for that tip bro, I appreciate it.. So if you were in my shoes what type of diagnostic would you do to determine where my shortage of bass is coming from?

[Billfitz]

You've already identified that the woofer under the driver seat isn't working correctly. Now you have to pull it to see if it's the woofer or something else. It's a PITA but there's no other choice. There are threads that tell you how to do it, including how to move the front seat without messing up the seatbelt/airbags. Once you get the woofer out you use a meter or 9v battery to test the voice coil. There's videos on youtube for that. If it's blown replace it. If not the problem is in the wiring or electronics.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

You've already identified that the woofer under the driver seat isn't working correctly. Now you have to pull it to see if it's the woofer or something else. It's a PITA but there's no other choice. There are threads that tell you how to do it, including how to move the front seat without messing up the seatbelt/airbags. Once you get the woofer out you use a meter or 9v battery to test the voice coil. There's videos on youtube for that. If it's blown replace it. If not the problem is in the wiring or electronics.

Thanks for the insight man I appreciate it..

In my reference to testing it out, do you have any links to sound clips besides the 70hz one I used on YouTube that I should use instead..??

[Billfitz]

This is a handy program, for both car and home use:
https://www.roomeqwizard.com/

There's loads of support for it.