02-20-2018, 11:17 AM | #1 |
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35,000 mile service
I have had my 2014 F30 335i Msport for 14 months. All I have done so far is oil changes every 6 months and changed from RFTs to MSS (money well spent!).
What is generally recommended at this point? I am still under warranty. The car makes some annoying sounds Im gonna have them check out and invariably not diagnose. What fluids need to be changed etc? The car is driven as intended, hard, and frequently in Sport+. |
03-05-2018, 06:39 AM | #2 |
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There isn't any scheduled maintenance at 35k miles, but I would recommend getting an engine oil analysis done before the car is out of warranty. That way if there are any issues you can present the findings to the dealer and have it repaired.
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03-14-2018, 02:49 PM | #3 |
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Great advice. I recommend the same. Excessive metal shavings - if found - are an indicator of problems such as premature connecting rod bearing wear.
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03-14-2018, 03:36 PM | #4 |
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Nothing. Car only has 35k miles on it. Maybe look at refreshing the ATF/MTF at 50k miles.
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03-14-2018, 06:13 PM | #5 |
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Im at 27,xxx (N55, not fbo, but have a tune) and was planning on doing a coolant flush. What else is recommended if anything at this point? Diff fluid, Xfer case, ATF, spark plugs? I see various opinions on what & when to change the fluids. What have some people been doing and when?
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03-23-2018, 04:14 PM | #6 |
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Along with the OP’s question, I brought my car in for an oil change at 34,000 miles. The service writer recommended changing spark plugs already, due to the motor being “direct injection” and builds up more carbon allegedly. To me, it drives great. I do spend a lot of time in Sport mode, when not commuting to work in eco. Do I need this or am I being sold?
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03-23-2018, 05:03 PM | #7 | |
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But you're being sold - spark plugs have nothing to do with carbon buildup in the intake manifold and valves. |
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03-23-2018, 09:43 PM | #8 | |
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03-23-2018, 10:52 PM | #9 |
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03-24-2018, 12:28 AM | #10 |
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You change the oil every six months? The dealer I just bought my f30 335i from told me every 10k-15k miles? This could easily translate to 18 months for me.
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03-24-2018, 10:25 AM | #11 | |
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Engine rebuids or replacements out of warranty are expensive. Take your pick. |
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03-24-2018, 11:02 AM | #12 |
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03-24-2018, 11:17 AM | #13 |
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Depends on a number of factors.
How you drive the car. Hard driving = more oil changes Lots of short trips = more regular oil changes .Most engine wear happens in the first few seconds of an engine running, so if you do 1000 journeys of 10 miles, compared to 100 trips of 100 miles, you'll get a lot more engine wear on the short trips. So having the best oil possible, and that oil being in the best condition possible, makes a lot of sense. Also depends on your annual mileage, the climate where you are (really cold areas are as bad as really hot areas, the 'ideal' is like goldilock's porridge !) Finally, it also depends on your view of risk, and the comparison to cost. Yes, you could get your oil changed every 500 miles - but your running costs would be very high, just from all the oil changes. At the other extreme, you could go 20k between oil changes - far lower running costs, but the chance of an engine component lunching itself goes up too, potentially leading to huge bills for engine rebuilds. Most 'cautious' owners change oil every 6-10k miles. Of cause, if you lease your car, and will be handing it back at the end of the lease, then get the minimum required servicing done. Because it doesn't matter what happens to the engine 5 years down the line - it'll be someone else's problem ! |
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03-25-2018, 01:25 PM | #14 | ||
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It's not 1995.
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03-25-2018, 01:27 PM | #15 | |
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03-25-2018, 01:48 PM | #16 | ||
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Oil analysis has shown that in most cases, 10k is good enough and 15k is definitely pushing it. I do every 7.5k because it's easiest to remember with BMW's 15k programmed oil life.
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03-25-2018, 02:59 PM | #17 | |
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What's your qualifications for your statements ? |
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03-25-2018, 07:48 PM | #18 | ||
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Perhaps you can run over to BITOG and have a chat with the various chemists who work for the 'majors' regarding your suggestion that the OLM for euro cars in general is unable to determine the proper OCI.
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