[kern417]

I just wanted to illustrate the way that I jack up my car. I installed lowering springs over the weekend, and my main concern was reaching a central jacking point. I have never used one on any of my previous cars, and I wasn't sure my jack would reach after lowering the car without damaging the bumpers.

I actually saw this method on a volkswagen forum several years ago, and every car i've owned since then has had the geometry needed for this to work. The F3x is no different. No special jacks, adapters, etc required. It's also a lot easier with lowered cars vs trying to get your jack to reach the middle of the car.

Basic Concept:
Jacking up the car from the forward jacking point on either side will lift both wheels. At this point, you can put your jack stands in the appropriate location based on where you're working.

Working on Front of car: Lower Control Arm Inner Bushing
Working on Rear of car: Rear Jacking point
Working on Side :Both

If you're working on the front or rear, you'll need to move to the other side and jack it up from the forward location. The jack stand will act as a pivot, so you will lift the opposite side of the car while lowering the wheel that doesn't have a jack stand under it. Everything moves slowly, so no scary drops or components shifting. And it allows you to lift the rear EXTREMELY high since you're lifting from a pivot point so far forward in the car. Great for exhaust work, diff work, axles, etc. Place your other jack stand and you're set.

Note: This also works to place your car on 4 Jack stands, but I've never had a situation where I needed to do that so I get by with 2.

Note 2: This can also lift the front really high by using the rear jack points to lift both wheels, then placing a jack stand under the front jacking points instead of the control arm. Again, I just usually stick to jacking from the front because I've never needed that much space under the engine.

Here are some pics:

Jack/Jack Stands with my custom BMW jack pad adapter. Plenty of cushion to protect the goods.






Jacking up the car




Place Jack Stands up front. You can position them either way, under either control arm. I put mine on the forward control arm long ways (like the 1st pic) because the shape of my jack stand fit it better






Jacks under the rear, and how high it can be lifted off the ground. The wheel is a bout 8 inches off the ground.




Hope this helps somebody out.

[bmwchue]

jack stands under that lower control arm does not look safe
what i am going to do is make some car ramps out of 2x8 wood (minimum) enough to clear the floor jack under the car. buy 3 ton jack stands and cut off the V shape. the jack stands should be able to fit inside the jack points.

[Niart906]

Why not use the center jacking point under the engine? Or jack from the large frame rail behind the diff?

Not in love with the idea of jacking from a rubber bushing. Kinda sketchy.

[kern417]

Originally Posted by bmwchue

jack stands under that lower control arm does not look safe
what i am going to do is make some car ramps out of 2x8 wood (minimum) enough to clear the floor jack under the car. buy 3 ton jack stands and cut off the V shape. the jack stands should be able to fit inside the jack points.

it's safe. the top of the stand nestles into the shape of the control arm perfectly. it's designed to take the force of the road and weight of the car.

Originally Posted by Niart906

Why not use the center jacking point under the engine? Or jack from the large frame rail behind the diff?

Not in love with the idea of jacking from a rubber bushing. Kinda sketchy.

i've never had a car with a center jacking point besides a subaru, so this is what i used on all my cars. and frankly my jack won't reach that far.

i jack from the factory jacking point. and the bushing is what supports your entire car and connects all of your suspension components to the drivetrain. there's nothing to worry about.

and for reference, it's not a floating rubber bushing. it's pressed into the arm and supported with a metal insert inside.

[cmplaya]

interesting ghetto JPA

[rak299]

Originally Posted by bmwchue

jack stands under that lower control arm does not look safe
what i am going to do is make some car ramps out of 2x8 wood (minimum) enough to clear the floor jack under the car. buy 3 ton jack stands and cut off the V shape. the jack stands should be able to fit inside the jack points.

I used old railroad ties.

[lkstaack]

Thank you Kern417 for sharing your technique. I see nothing wrong with it as long as your jack stands can fit under the control arms securely. I use a different technique. I"ll use ramps if I'm only going to under the car for a short period of time and height isn't an issue. Otherwise, I'll do this:

1. Use a jack under the front left jack point to lift up the car enough to get your main jack under it. A cheap Sears jack is fine.
2. Get your main jack under the front jack point, just in front of the oil drain door, and jack the front up.
3. Position jack stands under the front left and right jack points and slowly drop the front down on it.
4. Get the main jack under the rear cross-member, behind the differential and jack the rear up.
5. Place jack stands under the rear left and right jack points and slowly drop the rear down on it.
6. Repeat for the front and rear until the car is high enough and level.

[adzam]

When I had a E46 M3, there were a few people on forums that damaged the jack point by lifting the entire side of the vehicle. Basically the weight of the vehicle would deform the bottom of the car and cause the jack point to recess into the floor pan of the car.

I know it's a different chassis but thought I would share.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=115466

[upsidedownfunnel]

Esco jack stands and cheap aluminum jack stand adapters on eBay for BMWs are the best option, IMO. If you use the central jacking points to lift the car, then place the jack stands on both sides of the car simultaneously, that probably reduces the chance of any damage being done.

That said, if you want to be super safe, and you don't have to take the wheels off, just drive up on ramps or blocks of wood.

[jnecr]

As long as I'm not removing a wheel, there's no easier way to lift the front of your car.

[kern417]

Yep, all decent methods. This is mine because 1. i choose not to buy another adapter when it's not needed 2. i only have 2 jack stands and 3. i don't have ramps because most are too steep for lowered cars. And I was swapping springs, so the wheels had to come off. i do have (2) 2x4's that i've used to drive up on them and lift previously lowered cars slightly so that the jack can fit under the side.

At this stage, if i buy anything else related to getting the car in the air, it will be either a quick jack or an actual lift.

Originally Posted by adzam

When I had a E46 M3, there were a few people on forums that damaged the jack point by lifting the entire side of the vehicle. Basically the weight of the vehicle would deform the bottom of the car and cause the jack point to recess into the floor pan of the car.

I know it's a different chassis but thought I would share.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=115466

thanks. i would be more concerned about the integrity of the vehicle's frame if this is the case. after lifting the front wheel, you're not lifting any more weight until the rear wheel picks up shortly after. an extra 60lbs shouldn't be the tipping point for a manufacturer's jacking point.

[sspade]

Are you guys rolling with 4 separate jackpad adapters when putting car on jack stands?

[jnecr]

Originally Posted by kern417

i don't have ramps because most are too steep for lowered cars.

No longer an excuse. I have the 40" model which my unmodified base 328d climbs with a few inches to spare on the front bumper. But, they make two other longer versions and ramp extensions for very low cars.
56"
67"
Extensions

[hardparker]

I've taken to using one foot sections of 2X4s to disperse the load across the front subframe's longitudinal portions, just inboard of the suspension.

I've used the suspension pivot points before, but switched to this method because it's more secure and safer for load bearing than the individual suspension bushings.

Still the factory jack points are best to use whenever possible.

[lkstaack]

Originally Posted by jnecr

No longer an excuse. I have the 40" model which my unmodified base 328d climbs with a few inches to spare on the front bumper. But, they make two other longer versions and ramp extensions for very low cars.
56"
67"
Extensions

I just lay 2x6s in front of the ramp.