[bimmer254]

So I got a good deal on a F30 328i (M/T RWD Sport) 2012 to use as my daily. Anyways went to change the oil and the plastic drain plug seems to have been over-torqued/cross threaded. (Last oil change was done at a BMW dealership too).

My question is...if I try and force it open and crack the oil pan, do I have to lower the sub-frame; essentially asking what I have to dedicate to do this job. I also went to the dealership and they quoted me $2k.....ugh. $1.1k for labor. The service guy also said, "well you have 12000mls till the next change, you're fine"......ridiculous, especially for turbo engines imo! So surprised to find a plastic drain plug and pan for the F30's. (Now I know why I resisted the F's.)

Thanks

[KGB_123_99]

You need to drop the front axle to change the oil pan.

[bimmer254]

Really? ugh, hmmm guess I'll look through the Bentley Manual

*I guess the RWD F30's got the plastic pan*

[amw896]

The drain plug is plastic!? Is this the case on the n55 as well?

[Orion4]

the Oil Drain plug on my 13 N55 335i is metal

[Class5Kayaker]

I had a stuck over-torqued plug on my last change (and kicked the guy...me....who over-torqued it on the last change). Anyway, that sucker was stuck and I stripped the 10mm hexagon hole on the plug trying to get it out. Well, I figured I had nothing to lose and the worst case would be having to drop the pan. So first I tried a tapping flat-head screwdriver with a hammer against the three outer "snap tabs" of the plug to tap the plug loose. All that did was break off the tabs. But then this left me three good-sized notches around the plug. Again, I tried the flat-head tapping but it just cut into the rest of the plastic on the plug so I stopped doing that (don't bother trying that step, just skip to the solution step). But then I found the solution......needle nose pliers!! Put one of each of the tips of the pliers in two of the three slots you created and you can unscrew the over-torqued drain plug using the pliers (held in an open position, not squeezing the pliers shut....hope that makes sense).

To summarize, pop off the three "snap tabs" on the outer part of the drain plug. Then use needle nose pliers, insert into two of the three "slots" created by removing the tabs, and unscrew the plug using the pliers. Worst case is that if this doesn't work, it doesn't actually damage the pan or the plug to where oil will leak. Then you can go the "drop the pan" route.

[Pavement Molestor]

PLASTIC DRAIN PAN

gents, he is talking about the oil pan for the transmission, NOT the engine. the engine's oil pan is metal.

at what mileage has the transmission oil been done, and at what mileage are you changing it now? $1200 for a transmission fluid service/ pan filter change is outrageous, run away. I would take it to a transmission specialty shop (paid like $400 all together)

as for the overtorqued bolts... not sure what I can advise you there my friend. I probably would not crack the plastic pan because that is still not going to help you remove the bolts. you will need a kit that removes stripped bolts or to carefully drill all of them out I assume..

[madmonkey]

If it's the plug for the drain pan that's the problem, you can change the whole drain pan. In fact that's the only way to change the transmission filter as it's built into the pan. Take out the 14 (IIRC) bolts around the perimeter, drop the pan and replace. Of course this means doing a fluid change again...

[Class5Kayaker]

Originally Posted by Pavement Molestor

PLASTIC DRAIN PAN

gents, he is talking about the oil pan for the transmission, NOT the engine. the engine's oil pan is metal...

He said "change the oil" on his 328i. Pretty sure he's talking about a regular engine oil change. On the 4-cylinder engine, the oil pan is plastic! It's metal on the 6-cylinder engines.

[CleanKM]

I had a cross threaded pan/plug when i went to change mine after warranty expired. Ran me 2K (just like your dealer quoted you). Whole pan had to get replaced.

[bimmer254]

Originally Posted by Class5Kayaker

He said "change the oil" on his 328i. Pretty sure he's talking about a regular engine oil change. On the 4-cylinder engine, the oil pan is plastic! It's metal on the 6-cylinder engines.

Yes, correct! I also noticed that they made it metal for the AWD 3-ers too looking at the Bently manual. This is annoying and BMW needs to train techs like they used to or just stop making cost savings changes. Techs are going to mis-torque this damn shit if they aren't trained to notice this difference.

Only one tech I talked to knew the engine oil pan was plastic. ugh

[bimmer254]

Originally Posted by CleanKM

I had a cross threaded pan/plug when i went to change mine after warranty expired. Ran me 2K (just like your dealer quoted you). Whole pan had to get replaced.

Damn, really!? Wonder if they even tried to get it out or just told you to replace it.

[CleanKM]

Originally Posted by bimmer254

Damn, really!? Wonder if they even tried to get it out or just told you to replace it.

I doubt they tried to get it out. Probably easier to just drop the pan and swap it. Except they had my car for like 2 weeks because they had to order the pan from Germany. Goes to show that even getting it changed at the dealer doesn't mean they know what they are doing. That or they did it on purpose knowing I was going out of warranty...

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by bimmer254

Yes, correct! I also noticed that they made it metal for the AWD 3-ers too looking at the Bently manual. This is annoying and BMW needs to train techs like they used to or just stop making cost savings changes. Techs are going to mis-torque this damn shit if they aren't trained to notice this difference.

Only one tech I talked to knew the engine oil pan was plastic. ugh

Techs know better but they either forget in their rush or just don't GAS and figure than can do it "by feel".

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by bimmer254

Yes, correct! I also noticed that they made it metal for the AWD 3-ers too looking at the Bently manual. This is annoying...

Guys, the engine oil pan on the xDrive is a load-bearing element - the front differential attaches to it. That's the way it has been for over 15 years.

You guys keep complaining about "xDrive adds too much weight that causes understeer", yet now you're complaining about something that makes the front end lighter? !

[skrtskrtf30]

I'm currently replacing my plastic oil pan for the n20. I have the subframe partially dropped enough to put in the new pan but can't seem to wedge it in between this rubber seal.