10-26-2016, 08:46 AM | #1 |
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N55 Performance Intake?
Hey
So I've had my Manual M2 for 6 weeks and loving it. It's black with rear tinted windows, with newly purchased black front and side grills. I was looking at getting a new exhaust but the cost is putting me off. I'm looking at mods that are cheaper with good gains in either performance or sound. I was looking at the N55 PERFORMANCE INTAKE from: https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/prod...nt=27716471175 Has anyone added this or something similar? Love to hear your feedback and if you think it's worth it. Thanks in advance |
10-26-2016, 01:43 PM | #6 |
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10-26-2016, 01:45 PM | #7 |
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Yes definitely. There is another thread around that others also noticed the same increase in turbo noise. Plus it's only 50 bucks or so
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10-26-2016, 04:39 PM | #8 |
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Intake will not give you any noticeable power increase
As for sound an open air intake like the BMS or Injen is the best way to go. Some get a CEL light, this can be fixed with the JB4
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10-26-2016, 05:18 PM | #9 |
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CEL aside, at least one member on here reported that the BMS was causing rough idle and limp mode
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10-26-2016, 05:26 PM | #10 | |
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Overall (for us at least) this has been a very popular product ... I have noticed that most if not all the negative feedback we got was from users who are not using it with a JB4
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10-27-2016, 08:08 AM | #11 | |
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Am I right in saying that CEL is ''Check Engine Light''? I had to Google that :-) |
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10-27-2016, 08:13 AM | #12 |
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10-27-2016, 08:15 AM | #14 |
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I doubt it will since it's just a filter. If your worried is call your local BMW to confirm.
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10-27-2016, 10:47 AM | #16 |
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I have never seen a case where any intake voided the warranty
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09-23-2021, 02:18 PM | #17 | |
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and if so will it already prevent them as is or will i need to get it reflashed? also, has there been any recent complaints about this intake, or did this stop being an issue 2 or 3 years ago? |
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09-23-2021, 06:03 PM | #18 | |
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No complaints about the BMS, its one of our best sellers.
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09-23-2021, 06:10 PM | #19 | |
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2) jb4 doesn't work for clearing cel anynore because they removed that feature if you're in the USA for carb reasons. If you want to reenabled it you need to sign a waiver for bms. 3) jb4 mafless/speed density for removing the cel for intake issues wasn't a real solution at all. It just cleared the codes left behind from renovjng the maf sensor. So essentially the "fix" was you unplug the maf sensor and forced the ECU to compensate by going into speed density mode (ECU stops reading the maf sensor input and thus intake Induced stuttering would stop) as a failsafe which would trigger an CEL the jb4 would clear. The jb4 didn't do anything special at all for this, it is imo the worst idea possible to do to your car. 4) the cel is due to the maf sensor readings, that wasn't the big issue. The big issue was the stuttering and rpm drops that came as a result. The stuttering was fixed as described in 3, and if you only had a cel and no stutter the jb4 would clear the code only no need for a maf unplug. But this code clearing is not available anymore. 5) yes these issues still occur, but depends on your car and how sensitive it is. 6) the only true fix is via a flash tune and getting it tuned for speed density so it doesn't need the maf sensor anymore. Twisted tuning iirc pioneered this technique on the n55. The only problem is you need a flash tune, and a new tune like bm3, mhd, or ecutek. 7) get a CTS turbo intake, it's the only intake that avoids ce and stutteringl and has no reported issues. This is due to its unique maf housing that mimics the stock intakes air flow around the maf.
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09-23-2021, 08:39 PM | #20 | ||
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My thoughts on every single intake available. https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1472560 the author has somewhat superficial reasons for not liking it, but i suppose some drivers prefer to show off their cars performance by parking it, raising the hood, and drinking coffee if you don't mind, i'd like to pick your brain a little further. as much as I may joke about the appearance of a part largely kept out of sight, the author of the above post does have some bit of a point on the exposed cluster of wires. as i just suffered a wire related trip to the mechanic, i would like to keep them tucked away in as stock a manner as possible. do you have any tips, or perhaps dremel related experience with modifying the wire housing so that it doesn't have to be wholly discarded with the cts intake? also, my whole reason for getting an intake is that i turned off the Active Sound Device. but now i have missed a couple of upshifts in manual mode because i can't hear the engine and instead of watching the tach, i'm watching where I'm going (call me old fashioned, i know). i am loath to fake the sound back into the cabin with ASD, and if i can get some noise back with even just slightly better breathing, that would be much more preferable. i have considered just getting a performance filter for the stock intake, but all i've read is that they provide more turbo spooling noise; i'm looking for a louder rev sound out of the engine bay for better timed upshifts (and to not bounce off the rev limiter ) do you think the cts intake IS the best solution for what i'm trying to get done? or do you have any other suggestions you think would be better, that still hit that price range or lower? |
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09-24-2021, 02:46 AM | #21 | |
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It is also not an ecu cover because the ecu is under the intake manifold. So the function of this cover is to act as a splash cover for the connectors that attach to the integrated supply module since some connectors face downwards leaving the back end of the connectors facing directly upwards and susceptible to water pooling. However this is not a vital part imo as all the connectors are waterproofed with O-ring seals and grommets on the ends where the wires connect. Plus it is alwats protected from rain and via the hood and the rubber seals sealing the engine bay. So you can safely remove it without concern (like I have because my strut brace comes quite close to contacting it). If you are really concerned you can further protect these connectors by using dielectric grease and packing the ends of where the wires enters the connector, this will ensure they are 100% waterproof, and taping over unused holes in the connect (which again are sealed). For not missing revs I think an intake is a bad solution because it doesn't really get as progressively loud as the exhaust note would. My opinion would be to save your money on the intake that offers literally little to no gains, and invest in a real tune instead. If you get a flash tune and a cheap tablet you can create a nice gauge setup which will allow you to have data logging, gauges, and most importantly a shift indicator where the tablet will beep loudly when its time to shift based on your preset rpm. It costs more than an intake but it will be worth it down the road when you decide you want more power and want to tune it further, you can also keep an eye on engine health with data logs. Here is an image of my setup with MHD:
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