[335inDe]

Due for first oil change after mods and wanted to get an idea of what everyone is doing differently.

1) oil type?
2) oil filter?
3) interval?

Also anything else you have changed on your service/maintenance.

Thanks in advance!

[RollingCoal]

Originally Posted by 335inDe

Due for first oil change after mods and wanted to get an idea of what everyone is doing differently.

1) oil type?
2) oil filter?
3) interval?

Also anything else you have changed on your service/maintenance.

Thanks in advance!

Here is what I'm doing:

1) oil type? Rotella T6 (I may try Delo 5ww-40 during the winter)
2) oil filter? WIX Filter
3) interval? 8,000 mile interval

[JTC1]

1. Liqui Moly Longtime
2. Mahle air filter
3. Planning on doing a change ~ every 7000-8000 miles.

Do a search and you will find a few post on folks who have done oil analysis. If I remember correctly the oil typically still looked good at 10,000 miles, but that will obviously vary from car to car.

[sukutash]

1. Rotella T6
2. Mahle oil filter
3. Oil change every 10,000 miles
4. Mahle fuel filter every 20,000 miles

[Mark M]

Originally Posted by sukutash

1. Rotella T6
2. Mahle oil filter
3. Oil change every 10,000 miles
4. Mahle fuel filter every 20,000 miles

+ 1

[chau]

1. Amsoil
2. Mahle or OEM oil filter
3. Oil change every 8,000 miles
4. Mahle fuel filter every 30,000 miles. Air filter and cabin filter every now and then.

[rulonger]

Rotella T6
OEM filter
every ~8000 k

[mitwehrli]

So its fine to use T6 instead of BMW spec oil after doing deletes and tune?

[JTC1]

Once you do the deletes your options open up a little I believe, although the T6 may be ok even before the deletes, not sure. The reason I am using an LL-04 oil is because I still have my dpf.

[WreckerX5d]

T6 has been tested to be a good option. It's about $30-40 for 2 gallons so that's a good bonus.

[Oilburnerfan]

So what oil change method are you guys doing? On my old MKIV TDI I would do the top oil extraction method and put in a magnetic oil plug from ECS Tuning so any metallic particles would be taken out of circulation.

Also, anyone running a bypass filter? I am considering this where you never really change the oil. You just change both filters and add makeup oil to bring the level back up. Oil analysis can ensure the oil additives are good and nothing negative builds up.

[Nadir Point]

I run a Motorguard bypass on mine, but still plan to change at 10k intervals with T6 after the deletes are in. Top is visible in this shot, tucked in between the fender and rad hose:

Uber's Junk

[RollingCoal]

Originally Posted by Oilburnerfan

So what oil change method are you guys doing? On my old MKIV TDI I would do the top oil extraction method and put in a magnetic oil plug from ECS Tuning so any metallic particles would be taken out of circulation.

Also, anyone running a bypass filter? I am considering this where you never really change the oil. You just change both filters and add makeup oil to bring the level back up. Oil analysis can ensure the oil additives are good and nothing negative builds up.

I always drain from the plug....ALWAYS. While the magnetic plug will capture some of the wear metals, not all are magnetic. I don't know that over the life of a motor if it makes any difference or not....I'm just old school.

[Nadir Point]

Originally Posted by Oilburnerfan

You just change both filters and add makeup oil to bring the level back up.

How much would you expect to replace with "makeup oil" in how many miles?

[335dsleeper]

1) Rotella T6 with Archoil 9100
2) BMW filter
3) 5-7k miles

[ChiDiddy]

Anything wrong with BMW LL04 5w-30 oil? Compared to switching to heavier weight rotella 5w-40?

[335inDe]

Thank you all for the info! Does anyone get a big puff of whitish smoke on cold start? Just started a few months after tune/deletes.

[TorqueAddict]

Originally Posted by 335inDe

Thank you all for the info! Does anyone get a big puff of whitish smoke on cold start? Just started a few months after tune/deletes.

Yes.

[Hockey13]

coming from ALWAYS using mobil1 in my gasers, it was really difficult to not use it in the d after the jr 2.5... I used the t6 however wonder if the mobil1 is better, same, or worse than the t6. can anyone provide any insight? the mobil1 in the gasers was tried and true with the cars earning well over 1xx,xxx mi. and 2xx,xxx mi. on one I dropped the engine for a look and it was spotless. thanks in advanced

[jomiri]

what sort of certifications are needed for the oil? since the dpf is gone im assuming something with high minerals/detergents can be used, but is there a certain specification that still must be met?

[Owen81]

DPFs don't like SAPs, as long as its removed use the highest quality you want to pay for. If you want to stick with BMW certs, I believe LL-01 is the qualification you're looking for, LL-04 is the same, but has low saps for emissions equipment (DPF still in place).

Depending on whats on sale, I use 0W40 oils for our cold weather. My DPF is removed as well.

Mobil 1 0W40 (old formula meets LL-01, new 2016 Formula no longer certified. Doesn't mean it doesn't meet specs, its just not certified)
Castrol EDGE with Fluid Titanium. EURO Formula. 0W40 (LL-01 cert)
Redline 0W40 (They state suitable for LL-01 but not actually certified as it is expensive to receive certification apparently)

I've read that Redline has the highest quality base stocks, and a healthy additive package with above average ZDDP. But it never goes on sale so I've been using Mobil 1 / Castrol EDGE FTT Euro as they are easily attainable locally.

From what I've read, BMW uses Castrol EDGE Professional - European 5W30 OE as their supplier for BMW branded oil in these cars.

[Nadir Point]

I wouldn't use any oil without a minimum API CJ-4 rating for diesel application. There's a corresponding European spec for their oils, but I forget the details.