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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Transmission code 4f6f



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      02-11-2016, 12:18 AM   #1
glitdi
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Transmission code 4f6f

So just wanted to document for future purposes, a week ago I was accelerating under w.o.t. third gear onto the highway and I felt a nasty shutter in the trans, drive line and limp mode. Felt like a nasty shake in the back end.
Used a snap on modis to pull codes and it came as 4f6f High turning instability. not a very descriptive code. Cleared code, mashed on it again to see if it was a one time instance, nope, did it again same code.
Been driving more gingerly since then and so far no repeat of the code, so I have a theory its to do with the Guibo, since its a common problem and a wearable item I took a gamble.
I ordered a guibo, the one made of aluminum from the 6 series, should be more robust. I will throw it in and see if it fixes my problem, I don't like chucking parts at stuff but I got lazy... When the guibo arrives I will pull the part and see if my theory is correct. service the tranny next and see what happens.
Feel free to kick in if you have any insight into this little problem.
Just wanted to document, since I couldn't find any instance of this code on this forum that was to do with our e90's
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      02-11-2016, 11:17 AM   #2
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Glitdi, perhaps you taught Yozh the term "guibo". Never heard this term other than from him.

Not sure of others, but I would appreciate a mini DIY write up on how you go about changing the guibo. Eagerly awaiting your outcome of the replacement. Good luck!
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      02-11-2016, 11:31 AM   #3
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Thanks for sharing this for the community and building the knowledge base. Looking forward to your findings.
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      02-11-2016, 11:34 AM   #4
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ECS Tuning has the aluminum Guibo listed as compatible with the 335d.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...ibo/ES2500955/
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      02-11-2016, 11:35 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
Glitdi, perhaps you taught Yozh the term "guibo". Never heard this term other than from him.

Not sure of others, but I would appreciate a mini DIY write up on how you go about changing the guibo. Eagerly awaiting your outcome of the replacement. Good luck!
Lol. The term giubo is old school BMW. Those of us that have been wrenching on them for decades know the part as a giubo. Today's parts diagrams simply refer to it as a Flex Disc.


Courtesy of Wiki
"A Giubo (/ˈdʒuːboʊ/ JEW-boh; etymology: Giunti Boschi), also known as a flex disc, and sometimes misspelled as guibo, is a flexible coupling used to transmit rotational torque between the drive shaft and the companion flange on mechanical devices, such as an automobile engine."
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      02-11-2016, 12:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark M View Post
Lol. The term giubo is old school BMW. Those of us that have been wrenching on them for decades know the part as a giubo. Today's parts diagrams simply refer to it as a Flex Disc.
Care to explain the orientation/alignment of the giubo since it is a flat disc? Article on Bavauto states part will self destruct if installed incorrectly.

Is this a 100,000 mile maintenance item or is it a check as needed?

Thanks.

Last edited by 335D Alpha Pappa; 02-11-2016 at 12:36 PM..
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      02-11-2016, 01:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335D Alpha Pappa View Post
Care to explain the orientation/alignment of the giubo since it is a flat disc? Article on Bavauto states part will self destruct if installed incorrectly.

Is this a 100,000 mile maintenance item or is it a check as needed?

Thanks.
There are arrows on the disk above each bolt hole.

1. Mark the output flange of the transmission and the drive shaft flange so that upon reinstall, you will insure everything remains aligned and don't risk any drive line balance issues.

2. The arrows on the giubo pointing forward must align with the transmission output flange and the arrows pointing aft must align with the drive shaft flange. Recommend getting new bolts and nuts as they are self locking. Also attaching the new guibo to the drive shaft first, then to the transmission flange.

As for maintenance, their wear and tear is purely dependent on how much abuse the drive line saw from the nut behind the wheel. If the car was babied it will last 200k miles. If the car was hammered, well then it will need replacement more often. Think of this as a mechanical fuse, it is designed to take the abuse and shock from the drive line instead of your differential or transmission gears. This is also the reason BMW began using clutch delay valves starting on the e36 models on manual transmissions, again to reduce drive line shock.
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      02-11-2016, 07:27 PM   #8
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Yosh has done nothing but teach me stuff on these wonderful/painful cars..I owe him and this site big time I try to help out where I can, but still have a tonne of learning on these cars...
I ended up buying the upgraded aluminum one through husker auto parts... $100 instead of ecs's price of $120, with the Cad and USD being so different every cent counts. I couldn't find a definitive picture on huskers site so I called in. Vic the parts guy at husker and he had no idea what a guibo was they refer to it as a rag joint (same thing really)
I am hoping to get the part this Saturday if shipping works out and install it next week. No problem on taking some pics, pretty straight forward if you can do a u joint its about the same amount of time and effort from what I can see.... (famous last words we will see) The big test will be if it fixes my problem. Its funny I haven't really beat on the car compared to most, no tune yet etc...We will see what happens...
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      02-12-2016, 12:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glitdi View Post
Yosh has done nothing but teach me stuff on these wonderful/painful cars..I owe him and this site big time I try to help out where I can, but still have a tonne of learning on these cars...
I ended up buying the upgraded aluminum one through husker auto parts... $100 instead of ecs's price of $120, with the Cad and USD being so different every cent counts. I couldn't find a definitive picture on huskers site so I called in. Vic the parts guy at husker and he had no idea what a guibo was they refer to it as a rag joint (same thing really)
I am hoping to get the part this Saturday if shipping works out and install it next week. No problem on taking some pics, pretty straight forward if you can do a u joint its about the same amount of time and effort from what I can see.... (famous last words we will see) The big test will be if it fixes my problem. Its funny I haven't really beat on the car compared to most, no tune yet etc...We will see what happens...
You are too modest. I do not swap engines in my garage....

But on the subject of guibo/flex disk, this may be helpful:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...placement.htm#

On some level I think you may be due for a transmission fluid change. Based on my limited foreign language research, this may be the TQ converter issue. Check if you have any leaks. Hope you were not like me and crack your tranny pan.

May wish to also check your driveshaft center bearing. If that is worn it will give you the driveline vibration. Btw, guibo was redesigned back in 2008/09 time. Used to be rubber with inserts, now aluminum with rubber inserts.

This is old (non vehicle specific): https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...Guibo/ES48645/
This is new (non-vehicle specific): https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...ibo/ES2500955/

Also, looks like up until 10/2010 date manufacture 335d came with an older design guibo/flex disk.

Last edited by Yozh; 02-12-2016 at 01:47 AM..
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      02-12-2016, 08:42 AM   #10
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hmmm. I might have barely lucked out. My production date in 11/2010 so I should have the aluminum one. Thanks, Yozh. We hadn't heard from you in a little while. Welcome back :-).
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      02-17-2016, 06:19 PM   #11
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Sooo update... This is going to suck.. After doing some sniffing I think my tranny iissue is posssibly electrical related and related to engine. The car has recently developed the slightest stutter at idle, I know the 335i gas pots are know for it and its very similiar to there nightmare..No obvious codes... You will be sitting at a stop light and you will feel a shutter, like a miss the rpm will drop ever so slightly and will revert to back to idle speed. While under load at the same thing seems to happen.. What I first suspected is the guido issue has developed further.
So far I have done some basic checks using my dmm and scan tool..
12.5v on the battery 14,5v charging with the alternator on the scan tool, haven't verified it with the dmm yet. maf sensor does not seem to be lazy did a test using the modis, some back probe leads and the oscilloscope feature, and the tranny level is fine.... going to do some digging.
This sucks!!!!
I did get a swirl flap actuator code and high pressure fuel pump sensor code but that was after I had pulled a few plugs out so currently it cant be trusted...
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      02-19-2016, 04:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
...
Also, looks like up until 10/2010 date manufacture 335d came with an older design guibo/flex disk.
Was under the car this past week and can verify that at least one 10/2010 production date vehicle has the older design guibo.

Replacement process doesn't look bad. Hmmmm, maybe I'll do a preemptive replacement...
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      02-19-2016, 06:09 PM   #13
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I would check the fluid level first.. You could be sending fluid towards the back of the trans, losing suction at the pick-up in front
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      02-20-2016, 04:07 PM   #14
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So making progress I think... did some digging and did some trouble shooting. So here is what I am thinking, I may be right or I may be wrong...
first of all the code I got was 4f6f or High turning instability in the tranny.. Does not make a lot of sense. It might be a poor German translation so still wondering on that. The thing that makes me wonder is most mil codes start with a PBCU (powertrain, Body, Chassis, Undefined) etc.. starting with a digit is very strange...
I looked for some other codes and found a #6 injector low voltage code, so thanks to my guru Yosh he sent me the wiring diagrams and I started chasing wires....
I went to the simple first. Pulled the ecu wiring harness and hooked up my digital multimeter and back probed injector #2 #3 and #6. #3 injector and #2 injector ohm'ed out at 183k ish ohms.... #6 ohmed out at 14.5 mega ohms, huge discrepancy!
So yosh told me that its not uncommon for bmw to replace the harness so I worked backwards and was able to squeeze the injector plugs off of #6,#2#3 if your going to try this be careful!! you don't want to damage an injector or the harness.. So ohmed out injector #2 #3 same as what it was from the harness back.. aprox 180 ish k ohms and #6 is 14.5 mega ohms.
My theory is....
6 injector is failing, if you have ever done a cylinder cutout test you know that the engine runs like a bag of crap! I believe that with #6 failing I accelerate the car cannot adjust mass quantity adaptation fast enough, the car shutters, the engine imbalance sensor or loop what ever causes that limps the car out and somehow the tranny is picking up the vibration.... eg limp mode... tranny code that hasnt been seen pretty much ever on this forum.. I will be doing a tranny service soon!! Oil samples to make sure there is no traces of burnt clutches, trace metal etc... One thing at a time!

So my question is do I need to take the car to bmw to program in a new injector? I can handle the installation without a problem, but most common rail injectors need to be programmed to the engine, ie a code on the side of the injector needs to be coded into the ecu's files... Anyone done this? I have heard that I may be able to do it through inpa... Can anyone confirm or deny this? I have Inpa but all the diesel stuff is in German.... I have heard rumour from Yosh there is an english version finally..Much help appreciated!
Thoughts from anyone appreciated!!!!
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      02-21-2016, 07:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glitdi View Post
So making progress I think... did some digging and did some trouble shooting. So here is what I am thinking, I may be right or I may be wrong...
first of all the code I got was 4f6f or High turning instability in the tranny.. Does not make a lot of sense. It might be a poor German translation so still wondering on that. The thing that makes me wonder is most mil codes start with a PBCU (powertrain, Body, Chassis, Undefined) etc.. starting with a digit is very strange...
I looked for some other codes and found a #6 injector low voltage code, so thanks to my guru Yosh he sent me the wiring diagrams and I started chasing wires....
I went to the simple first. Pulled the ecu wiring harness and hooked up my digital multimeter and back probed injector #2 #3 and #6. #3 injector and #2 injector ohm'ed out at 183k ish ohms.... #6 ohmed out at 14.5 mega ohms, huge discrepancy!
So yosh told me that its not uncommon for bmw to replace the harness so I worked backwards and was able to squeeze the injector plugs off of #6,#2#3 if your going to try this be careful!! you don't want to damage an injector or the harness.. So ohmed out injector #2 #3 same as what it was from the harness back.. aprox 180 ish k ohms and #6 is 14.5 mega ohms.
My theory is....
6 injector is failing, if you have ever done a cylinder cutout test you know that the engine runs like a bag of crap! I believe that with #6 failing I accelerate the car cannot adjust mass quantity adaptation fast enough, the car shutters, the engine imbalance sensor or loop what ever causes that limps the car out and somehow the tranny is picking up the vibration.... eg limp mode... tranny code that hasnt been seen pretty much ever on this forum.. I will be doing a tranny service soon!! Oil samples to make sure there is no traces of burnt clutches, trace metal etc... One thing at a time!

So my question is do I need to take the car to bmw to program in a new injector? I can handle the installation without a problem, but most common rail injectors need to be programmed to the engine, ie a code on the side of the injector needs to be coded into the ecu's files... Anyone done this? I have heard that I may be able to do it through inpa... Can anyone confirm or deny this? I have Inpa but all the diesel stuff is in German.... I have heard rumour from Yosh there is an english version finally..Much help appreciated!
Thoughts from anyone appreciated!!!!
This is good debugging and investigation stuff you're doing. Thanks for sharing your progress.

If you get a UOA analysis done, please post. We can compare to mine here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=34

and Mik325tds here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=110

Hopefully someone will come along and help with the injector coding question. I have not tried to do that before.
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      03-01-2016, 11:27 PM   #16
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So update.
Injector is waiting to go in.. I will most likely try to do a how to here on how to diagnose a faulty injector and how to remove and install the injectors as well... The mechanics is easy for me, its snapping pictures and interneting/computering I suck at..
Separate thread to come.
I have been digging through rhiengold and found a decent little gem regarding installing and programming injector.
Fyi there is a 7 digit code on the top of the injector that needs to be programed into the ecu in order to maximize fuel injection quantity and timing. Very common on common rail piezio injectors. haha
done it before with a cummins and cat programing before.. still all thumbs when it comes to rhiengold, inpa (especially since the inpa for the diesel is in german) I will attempt first and if that fails I hopefully have a gentleman who is somewhat known on this site for being a wiz with computers and with rhiengold, inpa etc. hopefully if I fail with coding he can do it. worse case scenario code it at the dealership.
this is what I found in rhiengold...

It is essential to adhere to conditions of absolute cleanliness when carrying out repair work on the fuel system.

Do not allow any dirt particles or foreign bodies to get into the system
Use only fluff-free cloths
Remove all traces of dirt contamination before dismantling lines or separate components
Seal all fuel system openings with protective caps.
Note:
Following description applies to all injectors:

Unlock connector (1) and remove.
Unscrew nuts.
Remove injector (2).
Installation note:
Tightening torque 13 53 4AZ. (does anyone have the torque values for this? I am pretty sure its refrence to some bmw material I dont have)

If the injectors have seized up, assemble special tools 13 5 251, 13 5 252 and 13 5 253 (from the set of special tools 13 5 250) and fit on the injector connection.
Drive out injector with impact weight of special tool.
Installation note:
Replace sealing rings (1 and 2).
Replace gasket (3).
Lightly lubricate injector slot with highly heat-resistant grease (refer to Consumables 4.5).
Prior to installation of injectors, clean injector sockets.

Important!
Risk of breakage of pressure line on injector. Observe tightening torque without fail.
Tightening torque 13 53 1AZ.

Hand-tighten all union nuts on pressure lines.
Tighten union nuts on injectors and pressure accumulator to specified torque.
Perform visual inspection for tightness of all common rail system components.
Note:
In the case of piezo injectors, the seven-digit adjustment value must be stored in the control unit after replacement of an injector.

Read off adjustment value (1) on new injector (2).
Note:
If injectors have been replaced, "injector characteristic map adjustment" must be performed:

Connect BMW diagnosis system
Identify vehicle
Select ”Function selection”
Select ”Service functions”
Select "Digital Diesel Electronics (DDE)"
Select "Injectors adjustment"
Select ”Test plan”
Start "Service" function with right arrow button.
Note:
Clear diagnostic fault entries from fault memory.
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      03-02-2016, 12:15 AM   #17
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      03-07-2016, 10:11 PM   #18
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Fixed!!!!!!!!
I am sure there are a few people that were/are skeptical about how a tranny code could be caused by a faulty injector but I am here to say that seems to be fix... No more limp mode, no more shuttering when driving I have put about 300 kms on the car and haven't seen a single code..
Swapped the #6 injector on Saturday, took some pictures to share later and some information on how to diagnose and replace common rail injectors on M57 engine.
I didn't snap many pictures of the swap due to the fact I was on a time crunch of about 3 ish hours to pull the intake, lines, electrical, swap injector etc so the thread will be a little short on visual references.. Sorry..
I still have to code the injector to the dde, did some poking around in rhiengold and seem to figured out how to do it.. Just need to check a few things before I do it..
Should see a thread here in the next week on how to diagnose and replace injectors on the M57....
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      03-09-2016, 12:46 AM   #19
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So fricking excited!!!
Just coded in the new injector to the dde...
I won!!
Write up on procedure to come on another thread!!
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      03-09-2016, 01:42 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glitdi View Post
So fricking excited!!!
Just coded in the new injector to the dde...
I won!!
Write up on procedure to come on another thread!!
Congratulations! Now, deal with the alphabet and tune that thing
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      07-09-2017, 12:00 PM   #21
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So I just got this code at an autocross event. Just had the BPC stage 1.

I've replaced my flex disc and done a transmission service in the past year.

Has the OP had any more related transmission codes after injector? I'm not getting any codes other than the transmission code

Cleared it, went away, came back, cleared and stayed off for 3 more runs
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      07-09-2017, 01:13 PM   #22
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OP has sold his vehicle. The new owner is on this board as well and can chime in if they wish. My understanding is that the car is getting heavily modified and is in as capable hands as OP. I believe OP still sees the car periodically.
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