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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Battery icon after ejecting key
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12-26-2015, 05:35 AM | #1 |
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Battery icon after ejecting key
Hi guys, quick question;
every once in a while, the icon for my battery appears with a warning sound at the same time after I press the stop button and then once more after ejecting the key. Thereīs no pattern, happens on short trips as well as long ones. One would assume this happens whenever the battery is starting to fade and one should consider replacing it or maybe charging it. But itīs not constant and I have no other signs in the car that the battery is weak. Any thoughts? Should I care? image hosting Last edited by haz_norway; 12-26-2015 at 05:41 AM.. |
12-26-2015, 08:48 AM | #4 | |
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I'd seriously go check the battery itself or the alternator. I've had alternator issues in 2 cars that developed like this, the battery light would blink eventually, up to the the point where they'd stay on all the time: at that point I knew I had a very limited time to make it home and to a shop to get it replaced. Don't wait to be left stranded. |
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12-26-2015, 08:59 AM | #6 |
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12-26-2015, 01:10 PM | #7 |
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It means your battery is old and probably needs replacement.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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12-28-2015, 11:28 AM | #8 | |
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* radio doesn't stay on after you shut off the motor * Comfort access doesn't work well * lots of other features of the car seem to not act like normal but do work (eventually). Just like everyone said, it might be worst case of a bad alternator or a best case of an old car battery that needs to be replaced (or both). When you get the symbol on the display, try to press AND hold the BC stalk button to see if you can get it to show you the "CC-ID xxx" number where xxx is a three digit code that you can google. Find a shop or a friend who can pull/read codes. Best would be someone who has access to INPA to read the error log history as well as the battery SOH/SOC details. If you replace the car battery, make sure you change a LIKE for LIKE battery: * Similar RC (Reserve Capacity) so you don't need to change the AH value * Same battery type (AGM --> AGM or non-AGM --> non-AGM) * Registering the battery is a good thing to do (not required, but highly recommended). If you replace the car battery with a non-like battery, you will need to: * code the car for the new battery specs (Correct AH and correct type AGM/non-AGM) * register the battery (required) My original BMW battery was a white cased (non-AGM) 90 AH / RC 160 battery that lasted exactly 7 years and about 95k miles before I got my very first yellow battery symbol. |
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12-28-2015, 01:20 PM | #9 |
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I used to get that - something about excessive battery discharge...turned out to be my P3 gauge sapping the battery- or so they thought.
I don't buy that theory, because in any case it hasn't come back, and my P3 gauge is still there |
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12-28-2015, 01:24 PM | #10 |
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For you, they should have sent it back to Wayne enterprises R&D to get looked at j/k
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12-29-2015, 02:48 AM | #11 | |
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