[clemsonkev]

On

[fazman]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

On hard acceleration the last few weeks, the CEL would come on and the engine seemed to misfire until I pulled over and shut down. Did again today and CEL now stays on. Took by AutoZone for free code check and they say misfiring cyl no.3, need new coil.

I made an appt WED morning at my local indy shop.... for a walnut blast and new plugs - check the coil too. Based on maintenance recommendations on my 2007 335i (Cobb tuned) with 94k on it, looks like I should consider:

* Flush coolant once every two years
* Power Steering Fluid change every 30,000 miles
* Fuel Filter: Variable every 30,000 to 60,000 miles (E90 fuel filter is in the fuel tank, $200 part)
* Water pump, thermostat at 60K
* Engine Drive Belts...Replace O.E. or O.E.M. BMW poly-ribbed serpentine belts every 60,000 miles. Replace O.E.M. Continental or Pirelli or original BMW V-belts every 30,000 miles.

I bought this new 8 yrs ago... original owner here. I am at 94k miles. Had my oil changed 2 months ago, got a new interior air filter at 84k and new plugs and turbo waste gates at 68k (waste gates under warranty).

oh, warning light came on a few days ago about an exterior light... but I cant find any out.

FYI, I'm on my 3rd free HPFP right now, but (knock on wood) has been solid since 50k miles.

MISSING ANYTHING GUYS?
thanks in advance.

I like my JB4 cuz I can pull codes on the fly, I'm sure cobb has something for you to pull codes with as well? I say you should also invest in a $20 OBD2 K+D CAN coding cable and have someone help you setup INPA + other tools on a spare laptop you have.

You need to learn how to get into the Hidden menu in the Kombi... that will give some quick details about the car while you don't have INPA

You need to learn how to get the CC ID using the BC Stalk for those warning messages in the Kombi. Basically once you get to the warning light... do a long press of the BS Stalk button and eventually it will show you the same warning icon with a CC ID XXX number (Check Control ID). you can google the error to find out the issue and the common solution that way.

Carbon Blasting is a great thing you need to do on any high mileage n54. I did mine at 45k miles and at 95k miles. Usually you notice problems with cyl 5 or cyl 6 misfiring since they are the worst runners for build up. On a tuned car, you should be changing out the spark plugs every 25k miles instead of the stock 45k miles interval. Spark plugs can easily be combined with a carbon blast for reduced labor costs. When you do the carbon blast (about $250-$300) you should make sure they install a new gasket when they put it back together ($40 gasket) rather than reuse the old gasket. I would also consider having them inspect the coils (since the spark plugs are out). This is also a good time to get a BMS Oil Catch Can installed (OCC) so you get less blowby in the intake for future carbon build up.

Also have them take a look at the Oil Filter Housing Gasket (OFHG) mine started to fail at 75k miles and was finally replaced at 90k miles under CPO because originally they said it wasn't bad enough to replace. The OFHG also is known to have chunks of rubber break off and foul the WP/TStat... so get that one done if its due/needed.

Drive belts are a good thing to do as well since 2wd cars have a tendency for it to rub the subframe, break, and get sucked into the front main seal and then grenade the motor

Fuel Filter - never need it done unless you put in shitty gas?

Power steering fluid almost never needs to be changed... but I'm doing mine at 100k (being done now).

Coolant flush - I think every 2 years is too aggressive. I would say either when the WP/TStat fails you put in new coolant OR maybe once every 5 years/75k miles (plucking numbers outta the air). really the issue here is the OFHG and possibly the electronics on the WP/Tstat failing because of too many cycles/temps.

What about your drive line fluids?

[jwalker87]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...99804247,d.eXY

Read this and make your own informed decision.

/thread

[jwalker87]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

great info, thanks!

and I see you are in CHS... any experience with Total Mini & BMW Services in N.CHS?

Ah, nice! I actually live in Moncks Corner pretty close to Summerville. I do everything myself except what I had the dealer (in West Ashley) do under warranty, so no experience with them. Do you go to Cars & Coffee on Saturdays?

[924er]

I would change all the vacuum lines. It's pretty easy DIY and cheap. Will save you down the road when you try to find boost leaks. Don't forget obvious things like air filter which seems to become forgotten. Enjoy

[HB E90]

Good to know

[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

On hard acceleration the last few weeks, the CEL would come on and the engine seemed to misfire until I pulled over and shut down. Did again today and CEL now stays on. Took by AutoZone for free code check and they say misfiring cyl no.3, need new coil.

I made an appt WED morning at my local indy shop.... for a walnut blast and new plugs - check the coil too. Based on maintenance recommendations on my 2007 335i (Cobb tuned) with 94k on it, looks like I should consider:

* Flush coolant once every two years
* Power Steering Fluid change every 30,000 miles
* Fuel Filter: Variable every 30,000 to 60,000 miles (E90 fuel filter is in the fuel tank, $200 part)
* Water pump, thermostat at 60K
* Engine Drive Belts...Replace O.E. or O.E.M. BMW poly-ribbed serpentine belts every 60,000 miles. Replace O.E.M. Continental or Pirelli or original BMW V-belts every 30,000 miles.

I bought this new 8 yrs ago... original owner here. I am at 94k miles. Had my oil changed 2 months ago, got a new interior air filter at 84k and new plugs and turbo waste gates at 68k (waste gates under warranty).

oh, warning light came on a few days ago about an exterior light... but I cant find any out.

FYI, I'm on my 3rd free HPFP right now, but (knock on wood) has been solid since 50k miles.

MISSING ANYTHING GUYS?
thanks in advance.

From the list they want your money.
Power steering every 30K?
Water Pump every 60K?
Serpentine belt every 60K?

What they left off is a brake fluid flush which is scheduled where most of the things you list aren't and are expensive. Brake fluid every 2 years.
You don't pull the water pump if you don't need to. If you do the water pump every 60K, do the coolant then.

I've never done a power steering flush on any BMW I had unless I lost a hose.

The light you can't find is the backup light.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

thanks for your extensive reply. I'll share with my Indy Shop. Drive line fluids haven't been done... I'll look into it since I'm at 94k. I have a manual if that matters. No ATF.

Manual transmission I believe should have all the driveline fluids done every 30k miles (Don't hold me to that... but thats what I believe is true).

[galahad05]

Originally Posted by fazman

Manual transmission I believe should have all the driveline fluids done every 30k miles (Don't hold me to that... but thats what I believe is true).

I did mine at 60k.

[MiniXP]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

could you tell a difference? I don't think mine has ever been done. I'm at 94k.

I asked my Indy shop, Total BMW and Mini, and the owner said I shouldn't worry about it... and they weren't even that busy.

I would say every 60k at a minimum. I did 60k on my e46. I've only had the 335 for about 10k miles, so I haven't decided how often I'll do it on this.

I did do it at 60k when I bought the car and it gave a noticeable improvement in shifting. Made it much less notchy.

[MiniXP]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

I'll do it then when I get my next oil change.

I did notice Mike Miller didn't list it:

Mike Miller of BMWCCA had sent me pages and pages of his suggested "Old School" maintenance tips for many different types of BMWs of various ages. He made some specific maintenance suggestions for the N54, which I have distilled down and listed below. Note that I believe his schedules seem to me to be rather conservative and are certainly designed for people who want to keep their cars for >100K miles. The schedule below is primarily for this of us who use our N54 bimmers as daily drivers. Clearly, lots more frequent maintenance is required if you track or race your car.

Good luck!

* Allow Turbocharger Warm-up and Cool-down
* Change Brake fluid once every year
* Oil and filter once every 5000-7500 miles, Redline 10W-40
* Flush coolant once every two years
* K&N oiled cotton gauze filters, clean every 15,000 to 30,000 miles depending on condition, use only K&N approved cleaner and oil, and follow K&N cleaning
procedures.
* Interior Air Filter: Variable every 15,000 (if fan on all the time) to 30,000 miles
* Power Steering Fluid change every 30,000 miles
* All-wheel drive transfer case every 30,000 miles (TF0870 83 22 0 397 244 (1 Liter))
* Spark plugs every 30-45K
* Fuel Filter: Variable every 30,000 to 60,000 miles (E90 fuel filter is in the fuel tank, $200 part)
* ATF fluid flush refill and filter at 60,000 mile
* Water pump, thermostat at 60K
* Engine Drive Belts...Replace O.E. or O.E.M. BMW poly-ribbed serpentine belts every 60,000 miles. Replace O.E.M. Continental or Pirelli or original BMW V-belts every 30,000 miles.
* Radiator, etc at 90K
* Coolant and fuel hoses at 150K

In his full maintenance schedule document I think he says every 30k.

Shoot him an email and he will send you an updated document. He actually asks that people don't link it like was done previously in this thread as it is routinely updated. The 2013 version in this thread is the latest one I have, so it may still be current, but it never hurts to check.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

I'll do it then when I get my next oil change.

I did notice Mike Miller didn't list it:

Mike Miller of BMWCCA had sent me pages and pages of his suggested "Old School" maintenance tips for many different types of BMWs of various ages. He made some specific maintenance suggestions for the N54, which I have distilled down and listed below. Note that I believe his schedules seem to me to be rather conservative and are certainly designed for people who want to keep their cars for >100K miles. The schedule below is primarily for this of us who use our N54 bimmers as daily drivers. Clearly, lots more frequent maintenance is required if you track or race your car.

Good luck!

* Allow Turbocharger Warm-up and Cool-down
* Change Brake fluid once every year
* Oil and filter once every 5000-7500 miles, Redline 10W-40
* Flush coolant once every two years
* K&N oiled cotton gauze filters, clean every 15,000 to 30,000 miles depending on condition, use only K&N approved cleaner and oil, and follow K&N cleaning
procedures.
* Interior Air Filter: Variable every 15,000 (if fan on all the time) to 30,000 miles
* Power Steering Fluid change every 30,000 miles
* All-wheel drive transfer case every 30,000 miles (TF0870 83 22 0 397 244 (1 Liter))
* Spark plugs every 30-45K
* Fuel Filter: Variable every 30,000 to 60,000 miles (E90 fuel filter is in the fuel tank, $200 part)
* ATF fluid flush refill and filter at 60,000 mile
* Water pump, thermostat at 60K
* Engine Drive Belts...Replace O.E. or O.E.M. BMW poly-ribbed serpentine belts every 60,000 miles. Replace O.E.M. Continental or Pirelli or original BMW V-belts every 30,000 miles.
* Radiator, etc at 90K
* Coolant and fuel hoses at 150K

You could follow this... its far too aggressive for my real world experience as an FBO n54 daily driver. I think the Mike Miller details above are great if you really BEAT on your ride... I don't beat on my car but I enjoy it spirited as well which is why my time frame might be longer. Mike Miller also doesn't take into account the Mechatronic sleeve? He also doesn't take onto account spark plugs for a tuned car.

[galahad05]

Originally Posted by clemsonkev

could you tell a difference? I don't think mine has ever been done. I'm at 94k.

I asked my Indy shop, Total BMW and Mini, and the owner said I shouldn't worry about it... and they weren't even that busy.

For about a week it seemed my transmission was a little bit smoother, less notchy.
Then it went back to normal.

[MiniXP]

Originally Posted by galahad05

For about a week it seemed my transmission was a little bit smoother, less notchy.
Then it went back to normal.

Which fluid did you use?

I went with the d4 ATF and I think that is a lot of the reason it's less notchy. I used MTL in my e46 and never liked the feel it gave.

I know it's heavily debated and Mike Miller said he never uses ATF, but I researched it and I think it's fine. It's what redline recommends for BMW manual transmissions.

Here's an article by redline on the different fluids they offer for BMWs:
http://www.redlineoil.com/news_article.aspx?id=13

[galahad05]

I had the dealership do it, actually. So I figure standard BMW-spec manual transmission fluid. Whatever that happens to be.

[MiniXP]

Originally Posted by galahad05

I had the dealership do it, actually. So I figure standard BMW-spec manual transmission fluid. Whatever that happens to be.

Yea the dealer fluid is supposed to be good stuff too.

Did you have them change your diff fluid as well? That is probably more important than the trans with how little fluid these diffs hold.

I did mine, but was only able to get just under a 1 litre out using a hand pump. I want to do it again using a continuous suction device off of a compressor or something.

[jwalker87]

Originally Posted by MiniXP

Yea the dealer fluid is supposed to be good stuff too.

Did you have them change your diff fluid as well? That is probably more important than the trans with how little fluid these diffs hold.

I did mine, but was only able to get just under a 1 litre out using a hand pump. I want to do it again using a continuous suction device off of a compressor or something.

Something I haven't looked into for this car, but I know was a thing for the 96 Corvette I had, was drilling and tapping a hole in the bottom of the diff, creating a drain plug. There was a diy with a printable diagram for where to drill and everything that someone made while they had the diff apart or a spare case.

That would be nice for this car...

[galahad05]

Originally Posted by MiniXP

Yea the dealer fluid is supposed to be good stuff too.

Did you have them change your diff fluid as well? That is probably more important than the trans with how little fluid these diffs hold.

I did mine, but was only able to get just under a 1 litre out using a hand pump. I want to do it again using a continuous suction device off of a compressor or something.

I debated that one quite a while. Ended up saying No to that one. I looked into it--pretty much these things go well past 100k miles on the original diff fluid no problems. Now if it was a limited slip diff, that would be a whole 'nother ball game.