[SilentAttack]

What battery's have you used with success? I have the factory battery in place still so I figure it's time to change it after 7 years. I have the 900 CCA battery. What have you used that works and fits well?

[Miller335]

If your factory battery lasted 7 years why try to change/fix what isn't broke, at least that's how I look at it.

[SilentAttack]

Originally Posted by Miller335

If your factory battery lasted 7 years why try to change/fix what isn't broke, at least that's how I look at it.

Well starting the car is getting sluggish. I can tell it's about that time. 108k miles. Time for a water pump too.

[Miller335]

Originally Posted by SilentAttack

Well starting the car is getting sluggish. I can tell it's about that time. 108k miles. Time for a water pump too.

I'm not saying keep your current battery.

[Some Asian Guy]

I replaced my original a few weeks ago with this one. I used google to find a 30% off coupon code, ordered online, and picked up in store. It's been working great. Installed easy enough and I registered it with my laptop with a DIY I found on here somewhere.

[P33J]

AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 900 CCA, good cranking and running accessories, self registered with laptop.

[robthewrench]

To stay with the same size / power, you need either an H8 or group 49 battery. The walmart maxx is ~$125.

[mike-y]

My original battery lasted 9 years. I just replaced it in June with a comparable Interstate battery of the same type (lead acid).

If you remove the top battery bracket, you should be able to see what type you have (AGM or Lead Acid). My battery had a Pb stamped on the top, so I knew which one to get.

[Some Asian Guy]

Originally Posted by P33J

AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 900 CCA, good cranking and running accessories, self registered with laptop.

Was your original battery an AGM? I thought about getting one, but from what I've read, switching to an AGM battery from lead acid requires more than just registering. I just kept it simple and got the AutoCraft Gold lead acid battery.

[P33J]

No, original was a normal lead acid. Frankly I didn't think twice and haven't had any problem. The specs are the same and the characteristics are close enough, slightly favoring AGM in my opinion.

[Wilt]

White exterior battery body = lead acid
Black exterior battery body = AGM

Look on battery for the numbers you need to match, so only 'registration' is need and not any coding to change capacity. And yes, switching type also needs coding.

[P33J]

I chose AGM on purpose because that's what I wanted to use.

Registering, according to the repair manual, basically just tells the car's computer to reset the clock on the monitoring of the battery. That way it isn't trying to charge (overcharge) the new battery at the same rate as the older / failing battery. It is "notifying the Vehicle Power Management that a new battery has been fitted to the vehicle".

No coding is required as long as you are not changing the voltage being delivered or anything else out of the ordinary, therefore Vehicle Power Management and CAS are happy.

[VTECaddict]

Autozone for $100

[ctuna]

Coding is suppose to be done if you change battery
types. And if you are changing capacity's for amp hours.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=Battery

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=Battery

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=Battery

[fazman]

Originally Posted by SilentAttack

What battery's have you used with success? I have the factory battery in place still so I figure it's time to change it after 7 years. I have the 900 CCA battery. What have you used that works and fits well?

Be careful, lots of rumors of information out there. I've been telling people the same stuff over and over to the point its just easier for you to just read my old threads:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1049776
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919145


I did a nice discussion here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1035239

cliff notes:
* AAP has coupon codes which make the battery purchase cheaper, i like using "HUGE50" for $50 off of $175
* If you change the battery type (AGM --> non AGM OR non-AGM --> AGM) then you will need/must have your car coded.
* Registration is a nice thing to do, but not required... all it does is clears the history it keeps on the battery and tracks the mileage at when you changed the battery. Once again... this is a nice to do!
* Be careful about the Airbag sensor on the positive terminal, it breaks easily and then you have problems.
* Be careful with the negative terminal cable for the IBS, it can't handle much stress/weight... it will break and cost $$$
* If you have rear folding seats... drop them down... because if you disconnect the battery and close the trunk... you will need to research how to pop open the trunk with no power and no key hole to open the trunk

Short answer on what to do:
1) Find a local coder who will code your car for free or minimal money.
2) Get an AGM H8 battery from AAP using coupon code HUGE50
3) Get the battery installed at/near the coder
4) Have the coder code the car for a 90AH AGM battery and then register it for you, might also be a good time to get a lot of the cool features coded for your car as well.
5) enjoy your car.

[SilentAttack]

Im assuming I would need and OBD cable to use this DIY to register the battery correct? I know I have a 900 CCA. I will look in the morning to see if it is an AMG battery. Any advantage of going with an AMG vs a lead acid battery?

[SilentAttack]

I ended up getting the Advanced Auto battery. Fit in there like it was OEM. Had a friend register the battery update my maps and do some coding!!

[fazman]

Originally Posted by SilentAttack

I ended up getting the Advanced Auto battery. Fit in there like it was OEM. Had a friend register the battery update my maps and do some coding!!

did you stick with the like for like car battery (same AH and battery type). This means all u need to do was a simple registration of the battery.

OR

did you change the AH or battery type (AGM/non-AGM). This means you needed to re code the car and update the VO to reflect the new AH and battery type charging profile.

it wasn't clear from your post on what changed and what was coded?

[SilentAttack]

Originally Posted by fazman

did you stick with the like for like car battery (same AH and battery type). This means all u need to do was a simple registration of the battery.

OR

did you change the AH or battery type (AGM/non-AGM). This means you needed to re code the car and update the VO to reflect the new AH and battery type charging profile.

it wasn't clear from your post on what changed and what was coded?

My OEm battery was a 900CCA AMG so nothing changed with the specs. I had the new battery registered to the car for charging purposes. It's a pretty easy DiY project if you need a new battery.

[JimBeemer3]

Is it hard to code the battery yourself? I've heard BMW charges an arm and a leg to code and register the battery. If you don't code and register it I'm guessing it won't work after you install it.

[justin895]

I just replaced my battery myself and I believe I registered it correctly. I am getting the 4x4 error with all the lights. I corrected this issue when it popped up the first few times when my original battery was going out by turning the wheel all the way left and all the way right. For some reason since putting the new battery in, it wont clear? Yes I drove the car for a couple miles after install. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

[sandrwersoe]

I registered it with my laptop with a DIY I found on here somewhere.