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      09-15-2021, 10:33 AM   #1
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Is a leaking engine mount a known issue?

Are engine mounts going out early on these X1's a common issue? Took my X1 to the dealer for an oil change and they sent me a video showing the engine mount is leaking on the passenger side. When I asked them about it they said the heat kills them. The vehicle is a 2017 with 38k miles on it. I am just surprised to see an engine mount already dead after so soon. Plus they want $1500 to change it.
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      09-15-2021, 01:53 PM   #2
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Yes, it seems like a known thing. You can read more about it here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...acement-5.html

Same engine/mount. Basically, you can source the OEM part for $140. The labor really comes down to draining the AC system, removing a line for access and then refilling. It also looks like a lot of folks have successfully replaced it without actually removing the AC line. It just looks like it makes access easier. It doesn't look like a bit DIY job, and I'd guess an indy mechanic could do it at a reasonable price.
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      09-15-2021, 02:20 PM   #3
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$1500 WTF that is madness.
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      09-15-2021, 05:00 PM   #4
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Hi xnick101,

Last year, I had to change right-side engine mounts (top and bottom), and BMW charged me around $400. At that time, my X1 only had 18,000 miles!

I bought it second-hand, so you know, probably that's why it gave me several 'hidden surprises.'
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      09-15-2021, 11:00 PM   #5
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Last month my 2018 with 38K km need new right engine mountafter I brought in to the dealer due to the steering wheel shake on the free way. They found cracked rubber on the mount. I still have warranty abt a year. Just dropped off at the dealer today for the same steering wheel shake on high way. Don't know what they will find this time. The steering wheel shake was gone after the new mount was put on. Two weeks ago I experienced the same issue.
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      09-16-2021, 08:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X1604M View Post
Last month my 2018 with 38K km need new right engine mountafter I brought in to the dealer due to the steering wheel shake on the free way. They found cracked rubber on the mount. I still have warranty abt a year. Just dropped off at the dealer today for the same steering wheel shake on high way. Don't know what they will find this time. The steering wheel shake was gone after the new mount was put on. Two weeks ago I experienced the same issue.
I'm also experiencing a slight steering wheel shimmy at 65+ mph when on the highway. It began right after new tires were installed so I went back to get the wheels rebalanced. Shimmy was slightly better, but still present.

After seeing this thread, I just took a closer look at my top passenger side engine mount. I think I see a visible crack in the rubber bushing right below the rectangular metal piece on the engine side (see pics w/ area circled in red). It also looks like there's fluid coming out of the bottom. The wheel well side of the mount seems fine. You guys think the mount is shot?
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      09-16-2021, 01:00 PM   #7
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Hi Skyline,

That looks pretty much the same as my X1 looks when the engine mountings were broken.

I think the engine in the X1 moves a lot. It even has a sway bar connected between the front suspension mount, which the Mini doesn't have, and you know they share the same engine and platform.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
I'm also experiencing a slight steering wheel shimmy at 65+ mph when on the highway. It began right after new tires were installed so I went back to get the wheels rebalanced. Shimmy was slightly better, but still present.

After seeing this thread, I just took a closer look at my top passenger side engine mount. I think I see a visible crack in the rubber bushing right below the rectangular metal piece on the engine side (see pics w/ area circled in red). It also looks like there's fluid coming out of the bottom. The wheel well side of the mount seems fine. You guys think the mount is shot?
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      09-16-2021, 07:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by X1604M View Post
Last month my 2018 with 38K km need new right engine mountafter I brought in to the dealer due to the steering wheel shake on the free way. They found cracked rubber on the mount. I still have warranty abt a year. Just dropped off at the dealer today for the same steering wheel shake on high way. Don't know what they will find this time. The steering wheel shake was gone after the new mount was put on. Two weeks ago I experienced the same issue.
I'm also experiencing a slight steering wheel shimmy at 65+ mph when on the highway. It began right after new tires were installed so I went back to get the wheels rebalanced. Shimmy was slightly better, but still present.

After seeing this thread, I just took a closer look at my top passenger side engine mount. I think I see a visible crack in the rubber bushing right below the rectangular metal piece on the engine side (see pics w/ area circled in red). It also looks like there's fluid coming out of the bottom. The wheel well side of the mount seems fine. You guys think the mount is shot?
I don't know how the crack looks like on the mount on my car. Only found out about that when dealer called me. Today I got back my car. They said that both front wheels are out of balance. They rebalance both front wheels and said no more shake on the steering wheel during the test drive.
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      09-16-2021, 11:09 PM   #9
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I have a 2017 F54 Clubman with the exact same mount. The TIS says you need to remove the A/C lines on the Clubman too, but you 100% don’t need to. I know the F48 isn’t the exact same metal under the hood, but there’s a decent chance the A/C lines don’t need to be removed either on the F48.

The job on the Clubman was easier than I thought it would be. Take the headlight out, put a jack under the engine (near the lower engine/torque mount is a good spot) and then just a few tricky bolts to get at. It just wiggles out after that.

I’ve posted a bunch in that NAM forum linked above. My theory is the design allows too much movement, which eventually tears the rubber (because it’s stretching too much) which then causes a leak of the internal fluid, which then allows the mount to collapse even further, move more, and tear more.

Last edited by CirrusSR22; 09-16-2021 at 11:27 PM..
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      09-17-2021, 11:15 PM   #10
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I just replaced the upper right (passenger side) engine mount myself today. Below is not a step-by-step, but some tips and pics of the damaged mount (rubber was torn in multiple places and leaking) and side-by-side with the new one:

1. I wouldn't recommend DIY'ing this repair if you're not fully committed to seeing it across the finish line. I rate this a 5-6/10 in terms of difficulty. Be mindful you'll be disconnecting a major support structure for the engine, fighting to get the old part out and taking the risk that your car may be out of commission if something goes wrong. There's a risk you may scratch up your engine bay, break clips or end up cross threading holes for the mount.

I was willing to tackle the repair myself as my local dealer would've charged $1k in labor alone. Book time was quoted as 6.5 hours.

2. As of this posting, BMW has released a 4th iteration of this mount - part # 22118835566. The new one looks like it has more bushing material to support the bracket attached to the engine side. No other significant visual differences.

3. Get new bolts as BMW states to replace at least the 3x bolts holding the mount to the engine. For extra $22, I got all new hardware for peace of mind - 2x bolts for attaching the mount to the body of the car (part # 22116858061; torque spec - 100 Nm/74 ft-lb; 14 E-torx) and 3x bolts for securing the mount to the engine (part # 07129908650; torque spec - 40 Nm/30 ft-lb THEN 90 degrees; 12 E-torx).

4. As others have noted, lifting on or by the lower engine mount is a good spot. You'll have the best chance of lining up the guide pin that's part of the bracket supporting the engine side (see pics).

5. You may need to release some of the one-time use fender clips and screws near the front wheel well area to get more flex in the plastic liner to maneuver the mount out. It may be worth the extra work to take out the entire wheel well liner first.

6. There are 3x holes for securing the AC lines located on the mount, but none are threaded. There are 2 rubber nubs that twist off with a 16mm socket. These nubs are attached to a steel bolt. You can tap new threads, or just carefully screw in the nubs into the appropriate hold. For me, the steel threads self-tapped into the softer aluminum (?) holes with ease.

7. Read the Mini forum thread linked by Jack Watts and search YouTube for potential videos on this repair. The Mini forum was very helpful to get base line idea of what to do, which is also why I'm not posting a step-by-step.

8. Remove the strut bar to make removing the 3x engine side bolts much easier. Also, you're going to want to push directly flush down on the bolts when doing the torque procedure or you're at high risk of rounding out the bolt closest to the firewall. I nearly mangled the bolt head too badly, but was able to save it. Just take a few extra minutes to get the strut bar out of the way.

9. Be prepared to bend the bracket holding the washer filler neck out of the way. I could not squeeze it out without bending this bracket. Luckily it's soft metal so bending it back into the original place was pretty easy.

10. I did not remove the metal brace running directly above the mount. I ended up scratching up the brace and the strut tower while maneuvering the old mount out. I didn't care much as it was in the engine bay and a bit of touch up paint covered it up well.

11. Another issue from trying to remove as few parts as possible was that I had to cut away some of the plastic blocking the diagonal bolt securing the mount to the strut tower. I would've tried removing the entire plastic piece, but there was a bolt way down in the engine bay that I did not think I could get back in.

12. This may sound obvious, but torque all 5x mount bolts first before tightening anything else down. I wasn't thinking clearly due to fatigue when reassembling things and did this order backwards.

Finally, I found the entire experience worth it from a monetary savings perspective and personal satisfaction that I completed this repair on my own. Also, it resolved the slight shimmy I had at highway speeds and random high pitched clunk when accelerating from a stop.

Hope this helps future folks.
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      09-18-2021, 08:34 AM   #11
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I don't understand the logic of an engine mount causing steering wheel shake in the highway?

Usually this is due to unbalanced wheels, warped rotors (shaking gets worse when brakes applied), or a control arm bushing.

Engine mount should cause vibration in the cabin based on rpm speed. Even sitting in park you should see the vibration of you rev the engine.
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      09-20-2021, 08:06 PM   #12
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Removal

Thanks again for taking the picture and the writeup.
Looking to start this job in the next couple days -
Once the hardware is removed and take off the clips that secure the AC lines were you able to pull mount directly up? Or did you have to remove the headlamp assembly and pull it out that way?
Thanks

Last edited by CaptKirkk; 09-20-2021 at 08:08 PM.. Reason: Clarity
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      09-20-2021, 08:31 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptKirkk View Post
Thanks again for taking the picture and the writeup.
Looking to start this job in the next couple days -
Once the hardware is removed and take off the clips that secure the AC lines were you able to pull mount directly up? Or did you have to remove the headlamp assembly and pull it out that way?
Thanks
I passed the mount under the metal support member towards the passenger headlight assembly. I had to remove an electrical connector and dust cap to get enough room to squeeze it out.

I recommend you loosen the passenger wheel well liner towards the front as I had to push down on quite a bit to get it in an orientation that would allow the mount to come out. I think I would've saved a lot of time and cursed less with the extra room.

Unscrew the 2x black rubber nubs that hold the AC clips as you'll likely have clearance issues.

Besides being careful not to cross thread the 5x mount bolts, getting the actual thing out was the most frustrating part. It might seem impossible, like trying to squeeze a large rectangular object through a tiny round hole, but keep at it. If I can get that sucker through the opening, I'm confident you can too.

Once it's out, getting the new one in should be much easier.
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      09-27-2021, 10:15 PM   #14
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Did it this weekend! Your advice was spot on - thank you! I ended up loosening the headlight assembly to get a little more wiggle room. For a little bit it looks impossible to get out but kept working it and it will go.
Thanks again
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      09-27-2021, 11:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZZZ View Post
I don't understand the logic of an engine mount causing steering wheel shake in the highway?

Usually this is due to unbalanced wheels, warped rotors (shaking gets worse when brakes applied), or a control arm bushing.

Engine mount should cause vibration in the cabin based on rpm speed. Even sitting in park you should see the vibration of you rev the engine.
Not so much a shake, but a noticeable vibration in the steering wheel. A bad engine mount won't dampen engine vibrations as well anymore, at idle or highway speed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptKirkk View Post
Did it this weekend! Your advice was spot on - thank you! I ended up loosening the headlight assembly to get a little more wiggle room. For a little bit it looks impossible to get out but kept working it and it will go.
Thanks again
Awesome that you got it done! Good tip re. headlight assembly. Did you have to take off the bumper?
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      09-30-2021, 01:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
I just replaced the upper right (passenger side) engine mount myself today. Below is not a step-by-step, but some tips and pics of the damaged mount (rubber was torn in multiple places and leaking) and side-by-side with the new one:

1. I wouldn't recommend DIY'ing this repair if you're not fully committed to seeing it across the finish line. I rate this a 5-6/10 in terms of difficulty. Be mindful you'll be disconnecting a major support structure for the engine, fighting to get the old part out and taking the risk that your car may be out of commission if something goes wrong. There's a risk you may scratch up your engine bay, break clips or end up cross threading holes for the mount.

I was willing to tackle the repair myself as my local dealer would've charged $1k in labor alone. Book time was quoted as 6.5 hours.

2. As of this posting, BMW has released a 4th iteration of this mount - part # 22118835566. The new one looks like it has more bushing material to support the bracket attached to the engine side. No other significant visual differences.

3. Get new bolts as BMW states to replace at least the 3x bolts holding the mount to the engine. For extra $22, I got all new hardware for peace of mind - 2x bolts for attaching the mount to the body of the car (part # 22116858061; torque spec - 100 Nm/74 ft-lb; 14 E-torx) and 3x bolts for securing the mount to the engine (part # 07129908650; torque spec - 40 Nm/30 ft-lb THEN 90 degrees; 12 E-torx).

4. As others have noted, lifting on or by the lower engine mount is a good spot. You'll have the best chance of lining up the guide pin that's part of the bracket supporting the engine side (see pics).

5. You may need to release some of the one-time use fender clips and screws near the front wheel well area to get more flex in the plastic liner to maneuver the mount out. It may be worth the extra work to take out the entire wheel well liner first.

6. There are 3x holes for securing the AC lines located on the mount, but none are threaded. There are 2 rubber nubs that twist off with a 16mm socket. These nubs are attached to a steel bolt. You can tap new threads, or just carefully screw in the nubs into the appropriate hold. For me, the steel threads self-tapped into the softer aluminum (?) holes with ease.

7. Read the Mini forum thread linked by Jack Watts and search YouTube for potential videos on this repair. The Mini forum was very helpful to get base line idea of what to do, which is also why I'm not posting a step-by-step.

8. Remove the strut bar to make removing the 3x engine side bolts much easier. Also, you're going to want to push directly flush down on the bolts when doing the torque procedure or you're at high risk of rounding out the bolt closest to the firewall. I nearly mangled the bolt head too badly, but was able to save it. Just take a few extra minutes to get the strut bar out of the way.

9. Be prepared to bend the bracket holding the washer filler neck out of the way. I could not squeeze it out without bending this bracket. Luckily it's soft metal so bending it back into the original place was pretty easy.

10. I did not remove the metal brace running directly above the mount. I ended up scratching up the brace and the strut tower while maneuvering the old mount out. I didn't care much as it was in the engine bay and a bit of touch up paint covered it up well.

11. Another issue from trying to remove as few parts as possible was that I had to cut away some of the plastic blocking the diagonal bolt securing the mount to the strut tower. I would've tried removing the entire plastic piece, but there was a bolt way down in the engine bay that I did not think I could get back in.

12. This may sound obvious, but torque all 5x mount bolts first before tightening anything else down. I wasn't thinking clearly due to fatigue when reassembling things and did this order backwards.

Finally, I found the entire experience worth it from a monetary savings perspective and personal satisfaction that I completed this repair on my own. Also, it resolved the slight shimmy I had at highway speeds and random high pitched clunk when accelerating from a stop.

Hope this helps future folks.
My dealership put on the same part number mount you put on. Very helpful guide.
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      09-16-2022, 02:21 PM   #17
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Skyline2.0 part # 2211883556 This part number you posted comes up as the left-side engine mount. Doesn't side driver or passenger which is confusing. I just wanted to confirm this part number fits on the passenger side right?
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      09-16-2022, 04:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnick101 View Post
Skyline2.0 part # 2211883556 This part number you posted comes up as the left-side engine mount. Doesn't side driver or passenger which is confusing. I just wanted to confirm this part number fits on the passenger side right?
"Right" is relative, but whatever part number I posted a year ago was for the passenger side top engine mount near the passenger front wheel. The part # now may be superseded by a new one. You should confirm with a BMW parts dept.
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      09-20-2022, 07:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnick101 View Post
Are engine mounts going out early on these X1's a common issue? Took my X1 to the dealer for an oil change and they sent me a video showing the engine mount is leaking on the passenger side. When I asked them about it they said the heat kills them. The vehicle is a 2017 with 38k miles on it. I am just surprised to see an engine mount already dead after so soon. Plus they want $1500 to change it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xnick101 View Post
Are engine mounts going out early on these X1's a common issue? Took my X1 to the dealer for an oil change and they sent me a video showing the engine mount is leaking on the passenger side. When I asked them about it they said the heat kills them. The vehicle is a 2017 with 38k miles on it. I am just surprised to see an engine mount already dead after so soon. Plus they want $1500 to change it.
It's should be around 1000 man
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      04-29-2023, 06:41 PM   #20
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Just installed my passenger side engine mount. Thanks to previous posters for advising that it is possible to get the mount out without AC disassembly. I had no trouble. Just to clarify, the mount will come out the side so you must remove the inner fender liner. I could not get it out the top - too much stuff in the way. I purchased the mount from FCP with their lifetime warranty for about $139. BMW quoted me $1800+ w/o tax, shop fees, etc. so I saved about $2000 doing this job myself. You will need some special tools such as Torx sockets, swivels and extensions to get at the bolts. The plastic bumpers that the rubber AC line mounts attach to unscrew with a 16mm wrench, after the mount is out of the car. Reuse them on the new mount. There is also another white plastic clip to reuse. Torque value seems quite high that someone previously posted at 74ftlb. It broke my swivel. This car had a rumbly type noise coming from the steering column when the wheel was moved back and forth. That is now gone with the new mount. I surmise that the mount was bottoming out when the wheels were turned sending a vibration through the steering column. So anyone with that subtle vibration or rumble in the steering at very low speeds i.e. backing out of a garage, the mount is your culprit. Took me about 3 hours one day and finished with 3 more hours the second day but I disassembled the cowl area unnecessarily trying to free up space to take the mount out the top. Not worth trying. First pic shows an AC line bracket that must be removed - bolt is already out. If you look close you can see that I had to cut away slightly some of the black plastic bracket with my Dremel to get at the Torx bolt adjacent to the AC bracket. 2nd pic shows old and new mounts with plastic posts and white clip already removed from old and installed on new mount. 3rd pic shows the opening from which the mount is removed inside the front right fender well with plastic liner removed. Good luck to all who brave this job but it helps the car feel new again.
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      04-30-2023, 06:07 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4Sprint View Post
Just installed my passenger side engine mount. Thanks to previous posters for advising that it is possible to get the mount out without AC disassembly. I had no trouble. Just to clarify, the mount will come out the side so you must remove the inner fender liner. I could not get it out the top - too much stuff in the way. I purchased the mount from FCP with their lifetime warranty for about $139. BMW quoted me $1800+ w/o tax, shop fees, etc. so I saved about $2000 doing this job myself. You will need some special tools such as Torx sockets, swivels and extensions to get at the bolts. The plastic bumpers that the rubber AC line mounts attach to unscrew with a 16mm wrench, after the mount is out of the car. Reuse them on the new mount. There is also another white plastic clip to reuse. Torque value seems quite high that someone previously posted at 74ftlb. It broke my swivel. This car had a rumbly type noise coming from the steering column when the wheel was moved back and forth. That is now gone with the new mount. I surmise that the mount was bottoming out when the wheels were turned sending a vibration through the steering column. So anyone with that subtle vibration or rumble in the steering at very low speeds i.e. backing out of a garage, the mount is your culprit. Took me about 3 hours one day and finished with 3 more hours the second day but I disassembled the cowl area unnecessarily trying to free up space to take the mount out the top. Not worth trying. First pic shows an AC line bracket that must be removed - bolt is already out. If you look close you can see that I had to cut away slightly some of the black plastic bracket with my Dremel to get at the Torx bolt adjacent to the AC bracket. 2nd pic shows old and new mounts with plastic posts and white clip already removed from old and installed on new mount. 3rd pic shows the opening from which the mount is removed inside the front right fender well with plastic liner removed. Good luck to all who brave this job but it helps the car feel new again.
Congrats on getting this job done. I would drop the fender liner too if I had to do this again given the difficulty of trying to squeeze the mount through the top.

To confirm, 74 ft-lb is BMW spec, so other folks shouldn't be going lower. From memory, I think I had some anxiety torturing these bolts as I had difficulty with my swivel socket, too.
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      07-10-2023, 08:10 AM   #22
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Found a very good video so just sharing it here


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