[mr_lab_rat]

Nah, just pull the clip. It can only go in one direction.
You will need to secure the flap in open position (thin metal wire works pretty good)

[Ridin'Dirty]

My concern was that I would throw a code if I just unplugged the electrical connection so I just loosened the 3-10mm bolts holding the actuator assembly just far enough so that I could remove the spring clip that couples both assemblies. Then I bent a piece of welding electrode (flux removed) that matched the width of the slot on the valve shaft into a "Z" shape, slid it into position in the valve's slot after fully opening the exhaust flap, then secured the ends of the wire to the mounting bracket by bending. Oh, save the spring clip that you've removed - it's $10 to buy if you ever want to revert to OEM.

[exwon]

Originally Posted by mr_lab_rat

Nah, just pull the clip. It can only go in one direction.
You will need to secure the flap in open position (thin metal wire works pretty good)

awesome, thanks for that clarification! look forward to doing that this weekend. and then looking into the bms intake.

and eventually a muffler exhaust system if i "need" more sound - assuming more than one or two exhausts are on the market at that time.

[exwon]

Originally Posted by Ridin'Dirty

My concern was that I would throw a code if I just unplugged the electrical connection so I just loosened the 3-10mm bolts holding the actuator assembly just far enough so that I could remove the spring clip that couples both assemblies. Then I bent a piece of welding electrode (flux removed) that matched the width of the slot on the valve shaft into a "Z" shape, slid it into position in the valve's slot after fully opening the exhaust flap, then secured the ends of the wire to the mounting bracket by bending. Oh, save the spring clip that you've removed - it's $10 to buy if you ever want to revert to OEM.

thanks for sharing your wiring solution. i'm assuming if you don't secure the flap in place it will rattle or even more towards a less open position? i'll find out how good a tie i want once i get under the vehicle.

[mr_lab_rat]

yes, the flap rattles if you don't secure it

[bimmerdriver2]

Originally Posted by Ridin'Dirty

My concern was that I would throw a code if I just unplugged the electrical connection so I just loosened the 3-10mm bolts holding the actuator assembly just far enough so that I could remove the spring clip that couples both assemblies. Then I bent a piece of welding electrode (flux removed) that matched the width of the slot on the valve shaft into a "Z" shape, slid it into position in the valve's slot after fully opening the exhaust flap, then secured the ends of the wire to the mounting bracket by bending. Oh, save the spring clip that you've removed - it's $10 to buy if you ever want to revert to OEM.

Does anyone know for certain that disconnecting the actuator causes a code?

[bimmerdriver2]

I did some looking and found something interesting.

The actuator on the X1/X2 is used on quite a few BMWs.

Here is a link: Actuator drive, exhaust flap

I found this article: 440i - Exhaust Flap Mod - The Proper Way...

It refers to this part: Dummy flap actuator

This seems to be a way to disconnect the actuator and not have a code.

[exwon]

Originally Posted by mr_lab_rat

yes, the flap rattles if you don't secure it

pulled the clip out, switched the valve open, and my buddy welded the bottom turning part underneath the exhaust so the valve doesn't turn. took a total of 30 seconds to pull the clamp spring out and 30 seconds to weld.

[bimmerdriver2]

Originally Posted by bimmerdriver2

I did some looking and found something interesting.

The actuator on the X1/X2 is used on quite a few BMWs.

Here is a link: Actuator drive, exhaust flap

I found this article: 440i - Exhaust Flap Mod - The Proper Way...

It refers to this part: Dummy flap actuator

This seems to be a way to disconnect the actuator and not have a code.

I was ordering some parts, so I added one of the dummy plugs to the order. I'll provide an update when I receive it.

[exwon]

Just FYI I've had no codes with the valve open. And that doesn't shock me if the car doesn't know that it's open (or that it didn't shut).

and my 335i stock muffler exhaust had the valve flap, and i upgraded to the PE exhaust which has it removed - so i guess i might not be that offensive to the engine anyway.

[bimmerdriver2]

I found another piece of the puzzle.

Universal socket housing uncoded This is the connector that goes into the exhaust flap actuator to protect it from corrosion. This part number doesn't include the cavity plugs. I'm trying to find a part number for the cavity plugs, but you could use silicon caulking.

[Proper]

Simplest way to do this mod is to open the flap in Bimmercode/Carly, unplug the connector from the flap under the car, tape up the connector to protect it from outside elements secure the connector under the car. There will be a stored code but no CEL.

[Skyline2.0]

Hey folks,

From pictures, videos and posts on this mod, is disconnecting the actuator really necessary? Cant you just remove the C clip joining the actuator to the flap and then securing the flap in open position without disconnecting the electrical connector?

I was going to buy the dummy flap and connector covering but was hoping this mod can be done without having to disconnect the actuator motor. Also, it should prevent any shadow codes from being stored.

Any thoughts or can anyone confirm this mod can be done this way?

Thanks.

[Proper]

Originally Posted by Skyline2.0

Hey folks,

From pictures, videos and posts on this mod, is disconnecting the actuator really necessary? Cant you just remove the C clip joining the actuator to the flap and then securing the flap in open position without disconnecting the electrical connector?

I was going to buy the dummy flap and connector covering but was hoping this mod can be done without having to disconnect the actuator motor. Also, it should prevent any shadow codes from being stored.

Any thoughts or can anyone confirm this mod can be done this way?

Thanks.

The shadow code does not effect drive-ability at all. No lights on dash, nothing. I have had mine disconnected since I took delivery of my car back in December. No issues. Dealer knows that I disconnected it they did not care whatsoever. This is the easiest way to do it.

[knightarmor]

Originally Posted by Skyline2.0

Hey folks,

From pictures, videos and posts on this mod, is disconnecting the actuator really necessary? Cant you just remove the C clip joining the actuator to the flap and then securing the flap in open position without disconnecting the electrical connector?

I was going to buy the dummy flap and connector covering but was hoping this mod can be done without having to disconnect the actuator motor. Also, it should prevent any shadow codes from being stored.

Any thoughts or can anyone confirm this mod can be done this way?

Thanks.

Yes it can be done that way. You just remove the actuator and the clip falls right out and reinstall the actuator. You still need to secure the flap so it doesn't rattle. I secured the flap with safety wire. I got it super tight so there was no rattle.

I ran it like this for a couple of months and honestly performance wise I couldn't tell any difference. The sound was a bit louder on startup. Eventually I reinstalled the actuator and clip to run the flap OE style. I like having the quiet ride as the X1 is the family vehicle and the only quiet vehicle we own.

[Skyline2.0]

Proper and knightarmor, feedback is much appreciated! I'm going the safety wire tie down route, too. Probably the cheapest and most reliable way of holding the flap open short of welding it.

[ventjock]

I used the Bimmerlink app to keep the flap open at all times.

[GenXer]

Is this why the left exhaust pipe is a lot dirtier than the right?

It seems like using Bimmercode and disconnecting the plug are more elegant solution.

[knightarmor]

Yes, one pipe ends up dirtier than the other.

[Proper]

Originally Posted by GenXer

Is this why the left exhaust pipe is a lot dirtier than the right?

It seems like using Bimmercode and disconnecting the plug are more elegant solution.

100% much easier and cleaner, just be sure to electric tape up the connector really well to prevent any water and road dirt/grime getting into it than just zip tie it up and out of the way so it doesn't hang down.

[Skyline2.0]

Originally Posted by GenXer

Is this why the left exhaust pipe is a lot dirtier than the right?

It seems like using Bimmercode and disconnecting the plug are more elegant solution.

Which category is this option under in Bimmercode? I looked recently and didnt see any preset options to have flap open all the time.

[Proper]

Originally Posted by Skyline2.0

Which category is this option under in Bimmercode? I looked recently and didnt see any preset options to have flap open all the time.

Look for exhaust klappenauspuff, than just listen for the valve to open you should be able to hear it open up.