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BMW X1 (F48) and X2 (F39) Forums General BMW X1 Forum (F48) Rear Diff Fluid - Hypoid Axle Oil G__...what?

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      01-06-2020, 01:34 PM   #1
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Rear Diff Fluid - Hypoid Axle Oil G__...what?

Can anyone that's done a rear differential drain and fill, either DIY or at the BMW Service Dept, confirm whether the correct fluid is Hypoid Axle Oil G1, G2, G3 or G4?

I see multiple options, and it looks like newtis is pointing towards G1...however I'm unsure as the dealer I spoke to says the X1 xDrive uses G3. Can anyone confirm the proper gear oil?

Also, is this service a straight drain and fill (with no special diagnostic tools needed)? I ask because it looks like certain types of differential work requires a dealer-level scan tool to bleed and calibrate the differential clutch. I'm just not sure whether a routine drain and fill would require this type of extra work.

Thanks.
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      01-20-2020, 10:20 PM   #2
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I have a 2017 MINI Clubman ALL4 which is the same drivetrain.

It appears to me that Hypoid G3 is the proper fluid. For that it’s just a easy drain and fill per the TIS. Actually not a drain, you have to suck it out the fill hole. I used my oil extractor with a smaller curved plastic hose on the end to dip it into the bottom of the differential.

RealOEM Shows Hypoid G3
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...08#33108740374

New TIS is a bit less clear, as you mention. G1 vs. G3
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-drive/1EFiDSn

Genuine G3 is about $50 per HALF LITER. Yikes. I recently swapped mine out with MOPAR Synthetic Axle Lubricant which is the same 70w-80 GL-5 spec as the Genuine BMW G3. MOPAR part 68227765-AB. It’s about $25/quart. Although, I probably only sucked out 1/2 liter, so maybe one 500ml bottle will do?

Then there’s a separate fluid reservoir for the AWD clutch system within the rear axle unit. That’s BMW “HOC” fluid. “Hang on Clutch”. Looks like that’s the one that needs the dealer computer to both bleed and calibrate it. A bit more mythical on the Internet. Not much consumer-level info on the AWD system used in the newer FWD based BMW AWD vehicles yet.

I have a Foxwell NT530 computer/scanner and unfortunately it doesn’t have this function.

I also swapped my transfer case fluid (PTO box). That’s just plain-old synthetic 75w-90 GL-5 synthetic from what I can tell. I used AMSOIL Severe Gear Synthetic 75w-90 GL-5

Last edited by CirrusSR22; 01-20-2020 at 10:26 PM..
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      01-21-2020, 05:48 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CirrusSR22 View Post
That’s BMW “HOC” fluid. “Hang on Clutch”.
Hydraulic On-demand Coupler.

Is it made by Haldex? I've been wondering what is the source. If Haldex, it's available from other vehicle brands.
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      01-21-2020, 09:10 AM   #4
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CirrusSR22, very helpful post. Thank you.

I grilled the Parts guy at my nearby BMW dealer and he confirmed that the X1 xDrive takes Hypoid G3 with ~0.7L capacity. I ended up getting 2x 500 ml bottles to be on the safe side. As you noted, it's quite pricey for diff fluid. Paid ~$53 per bottle.

Also, I had a feeling I'll have to suck out the old fluid instead of draining it via drain hole like most other diffs as the "drain plug and washer" that the BMW Parts guy sold me was extremely small. It looked like one of the bolts that holds in the diff cover itself, not an actual fluid drain plug. Appreciate the confirmation, so I don't go nuts looking for a drain hole when one doesn't exist.

As for the rear clutch system, I have an Autel Maxicheck MX808, so I'll see if there's an option to bleed and calibrate it. As an aside, were you able to engage service mode for the rear electronic parking brake with the Foxwell NT530? I wasn't able to get this function to work and ended up returning it, then later picking up the Autel.

For the transfer case, do you have pics of the drain/fill plugs w/ torque specs, or instructions on how to service it? I'm planning on doing this soon, too.

Thanks again.

Last edited by Skyline2.0; 01-21-2020 at 10:10 AM..
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      01-21-2020, 10:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by //TMT View Post
Hydraulic On-demand Coupler.

Is it made by Haldex? I've been wondering what is the source. If Haldex, it's available from other vehicle brands.
The TIS calls it “Hang On Clutch” and the official part name for the unit itself is “ Hang on clutch with control unit”. Part number 33108692604

Here the TIS listing the appropriate fluid.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ive/1VnczONFlo

But anyway...

This training document on the F48 says “It comes from the industrial modular system of the 5th generation of the Haldex system from BorgWarner.”

Page 28 of the pdf, page is labeled 24.

https://f48.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...0&d=1443221524

This Haldex specialty shop in the UK implies it’s also a Gen V Haldex and uses the same fluid as the VW, Audi, Volvo Gen V. I’m pretty confident it’s essentially the same system. Lots of YouTube videos on fluid swaps on Gen V Haldex units on VW.

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop...il-for-haldex/

I ordered some Ravenol AWD-H Haldex fluid last night. I’m gonna try it and report back.

Last edited by CirrusSR22; 01-21-2020 at 11:32 AM..
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      01-21-2020, 11:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
CirrusSR22, very helpful post. Thank you.

I grilled the Parts guy at my nearby BMW dealer and he confirmed that the X1 xDrive takes Hypoid G3 with ~0.7L capacity. I ended up getting 2x 500 ml bottles to be on the safe side. As you noted, it's quite pricey for diff fluid. Paid ~$53 per bottle.

Also, I had a feeling I'll have to suck out the old fluid instead of draining it via drain hole like most other diffs as the "drain plug and washer" that the BMW Parts guy sold me was extremely small. It looked like one of the bolts that holds in the diff cover itself, not an actual fluid drain plug. Appreciate the confirmation, so I don't go nuts looking for a drain hole when one doesn't exist.

As for the rear clutch system, I have an Autel Maxicheck MX808, so I'll see if there's an option to bleed and calibrate it. As an aside, were you able to engage service mode for the rear electronic parking brake with the Foxwell NT530? I wasn't able to get this function to work and ended up returning it, then later picking up the Autel.

For the transfer case, do you have pics of the drain/fill plugs w/ torque specs, or instructions on how to service it? I'm planning on doing this soon, too.

Thanks again.
I only saw fill plugs for both the diff and clutch. The clutch unit is a little M8 bolt with a aluminum sealing ring (07119909493). The differential was a M22 bolt with an integrated green rubber o-ring. I bought a new one of those. Part number 33117525064.

Numerous VW/Volvo Gen V Haldex servicing videos on YouTube also don’t show a drain plug. The common procedure for them is to remove the pump and let the oil drain out that way. This also allows you to clean the screen on the pump. Apparently Gen4 and earlier Haldex systems had a removable filter. Some of the screens look NASTY with clutch debris - and the fluid is black with clutch material. Seems like a crucial service to do!

Almost no one on the VW forums/videos are using the service computer. Most are just filling, reinstalling the fill plug, starting the engine for 30 seconds to get the Haldex pump to run/cycle/prime itself, then topping up after that. Some drive around block to cycle it, then refill. I’m guessing something similar would be “good enough” for our cars. The BMW TIS does mention filling and waiting a few minutes to allow fluid into all the chambers then topping off again. I’ll dig more into the functions in my Foxwell. I’m pretty sure it’ll calibrate the transfer case on my 2008 535xi wagon (E61). Haven’t had a chance to dig around the menus yet when connected to my Clubman ALL4. Just did a quick look for clutch calibration and didn’t see anything.

The transfer case/PTO is pretty easy - you just have to remove a drain pipe with a few small torx head bolts (either an E6 or E8 socket, I forget) to gain access to the fill plug. That has both drain and fill plugs (they’re the same part number). It’s something like an 8mm Allen to remove those plugs. The drain plugs have removable o-rings to seal them. O-rings Not sold Separately from BMW, but I’ll measure my old ones if you want to just order some o-rings.

I was able to fill it easily with the new AMSOIL bag of fluid. Can just squeeze the fluid up right from the container.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...e-gear-75w-90/

Last edited by CirrusSR22; 01-21-2020 at 11:29 AM..
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      01-21-2020, 01:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CirrusSR22 View Post
This Haldex specialty shop in the UK implies it’s also a Gen V Haldex and uses the same fluid as the VW, Audi, Volvo Gen V. I’m pretty confident it’s essentially the same system. Lots of YouTube videos on fluid swaps on Gen V Haldex units on VW.
Globalization can be a wonderful thing. You're good to go!

Let us know what the fluid looks like coming out. Some VW owners say it's black at 50k miles. My Volvo's fluid looked practically new at 95K.

Yes, there is rarely a drain plug. Only about half the oil generally can be extracted, maybe a bit more. The rest is stuck in the pump, the passages, and the clutch itself.
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      01-21-2020, 02:54 PM   #8
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Photo 1: As for the transfer case, here’s the duct that needs to be removed to access the fill plug. E6 or E8 Torx socket on 4 bolts. I used a little 1/4” ratchet. Very easy to do.

Photo 2: Here’s the drain plug. The fill plug is identical. 35nm. TIS instructions include filling. The draining step is as easy as just pulling the drain plug. Make sure car is level to properly fill.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...box/1VnYa4pH50
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      01-24-2020, 12:37 PM   #9
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Greetings! First post, new to the X1 (and BMW). Fortunately, not new to Haldex-equipped cars. Lots of great info here on the forum!

VW and Audi actually do have drain plugs for servicing, and there is a 3 year (no mileage indication) fluid change interval on the GenV Haldex-equipped cars. Volvo and Ford seem to think the fluid never needs to be changed... Based on past experience, I'm pretty surprised that there is 1) no drain plug, and 2) no service interval.

This unit looks identical to the GenV unit on my Golf R and Alltrack, and based on the fluid condition of the Alltrack, I think a 30K interval makes sense if you're keeping the car past the warranty period. With no drain plug, I'd recommend pulling the pump along with sucking out the fluid. You can also clean and inspect the pump screen at that time.

After adding fluid, you definitely need to prime the pump if you've removed it. You can turn the car on and run it for a bit, but generally it doesn't put much voltage to the pump and doesn't thoroughly prime it. The quickest way is to undo the pump connector and hook in a 12V power supply (12V battery will work) to run the pump. Polarity doesn't matter, and it's just a 2-wire plug). Of course, if you have an appropriate scan tool with output capabilities, you can run the pump that way as well. Alternatively, you can partially tighten the fill plug and drive around in a couple of figure 8s, which will put full pressure to the pump and prime the system--but then you have to lift the car again. The 12V power method really seems to work the best.

There are two o-rings on the pump, 44mm x 2.5 and 46mm x 2.5. There are kits available for cheap online, or you can just buy the o-rings. They seem to be Buna-N composition, but Viton will work if you're looking to "upgrade"! If you're pulling the pump, it's probably a good idea to swap out the o-rings.

For those leasing the car or trading it in, I honestly wouldn't bother. If you're looking to keep the car for the long haul, say over 100K, I would definitely service the Haldex unit and front transfer box/bevel gear regularly. The rear differential seems to be less of a priority, and a single fluid change at some point would likely suffice.
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      01-26-2020, 10:39 PM   #10
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^ Cool, thanks for the info!

I have a bunch of Buna-N o-rings ordered and am planning on pulling the pump to drain the fluid and clean the screen.
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      01-30-2020, 10:17 PM   #11
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I tried changing the Haldex fluid tonight and it was a total fail. You can’t remove the pump to drain the fluid or clean the screen without removing the entire Haldex unit, which involves removing the exhaust, driveshaft and other misc. parts.

The problem is the pump hits a stiffening rib on the differential housing, so you can only get the pump off about 5mm. Sucks because I feel the rib could be ground-down just a tiny bit and it would clear.

TIS removal procedure for the pump is to remove the entire Haldex unit, then unbolt the pump. I saw that but also glanced under the car and figured it would just come right out.

A little bit of fluid drained from the pump and while it was darker brown, it wasn’t the nasty black some of the VW forums show. I put it all together, topped it up with just a small amount of Ravenol AWD-H Haldex fluid and that’s about it. I supposed I’ll come up with a tiny suction hose rig to suck fluid from the top, but that’s about all the maintenance that can be quickly done on these. 🤔
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      01-31-2020, 06:06 PM   #12
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hmm...

think I'd be tempted to break out the dremel!

It's frustrating, but not surprising. On some of the older Volvo cars that had a serviceable filter, the Haldex was oriented in a way that you had to drop the driveshaft just to access the filter! The pump is also blocked in those applications. Clearly the manufacturer doesn't view this as a service item.

There's not much rhyme or reason as to how much debris you'll have on the pump screen, but my own thought is that if you do a lot of parallel parking or 3 point turns and you're going full-lock a lot at low speed, you'll likely be activating the pump more often. I drove around w/a scan tool for a while observing pressure outputs, and believe it or not that seems to be the highest usage scenario.

In lieu of grinding the diff to remove the pump, I think just doing the fluid changes a bit more often would likely do the trick. Can't see myself removing the Haldex unit unless I have to replace or rebuilt the pump.

Thanks for the update!
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      02-01-2020, 01:35 PM   #13
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Next time I’m under it I’ll look closer at what interferes and how much needs to be ground off.
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      03-11-2020, 10:13 PM   #14
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CirrusCR22, I'm hopefully getting around to the rear diff oil change in next week or two. I was under the car just now and saw what I believe is the fill plug. Is the fill plug on the right side of the differential, in front of the right rear drive axle and next to a black box? I'm wondering if I can avoid taking off the black metal skid plate and just undo the plug to extract and refill. See attached photo.

Thanks again for your help.
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Last edited by Skyline2.0; 03-11-2020 at 10:26 PM..
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      03-13-2020, 10:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
CirrusCR22, I'm hopefully getting around to the rear diff oil change in next week or two. I was under the car just now and saw what I believe is the fill plug. Is the fill plug on the right side of the differential, in front of the right rear drive axle and next to a black box? I'm wondering if I can avoid taking off the black metal skid plate and just undo the plug to extract and refill. See attached photo.

Thanks again for your help.
Correct, that’s it! I used my oil extractor and flexed the hose down in there. Refill until it just barely overflows (make sure car is level). Super easy job.
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      04-16-2020, 04:02 PM   #16
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I did a “suck and swap” Haldex fluid change today. I used a large 100ml syringe with a small rubber tube attached. Found that on eBay for a few dollars. Stuck the tubing into the fill hole and pulled out approximately 250ml worth of fluid.

Then pumped in clean fluid with a cheapo squirter-type oil can until it over flowed from the fill hole. I let it sit 5+ minutes (per the TIS) and topped it off again. My Foxwell service tool doesn’t have the bleeding or calibration functions so I then turned the engine on an let the car idle for a few minutes, then topped it off again. This is the procedure I see tons of VW, Volvo, etc. people do with their Haldex systems.

Fluid on my 2017 Clubman S with 34,000 miles was pretty nasty. Lots of gold glittery material and even some tiny black chunks. I assume this is all clutch material. New fluid I used was Ravenol AWD-H Haldex.
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      04-18-2020, 01:12 PM   #17
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I bought about a dozen aluminum sealing rings for the Haldex unit at BelMetric.com.

Item “GA8x12”. 8mm ID 12mm OD
https://www.belmetric.com/aluminum-g...et-p-5620.html

Also the gear oil drain/fill plug has a little green o-ring on it. I bought a bag of 22.1mm x 1.6mm o-rings and found they fit perfectly. I got them here.

https://www.oringsandmore.com/metric...inimum-25-pcs/

Last edited by CirrusSR22; 04-18-2020 at 02:36 PM..
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      06-02-2020, 04:53 PM   #18
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I also couldn't remove the pump when i was trying to change clutch oil in my 5 gen haldex on my BMW f48.

I wonder if the removing of cross member on rear axle support would help to extract the pump. See picture attached.

With an oil suction syringe it is possible to extract only about 250 ml of oil from 520 ml that reside in the clutch. Haldex has several oil compartment and making pauses between oil suction (about 5 min) may help to extract more oil. The oil need some time to flow from one camera to another. Unfortunately, i didn't come to this idea when i was changing the oil.

As per TIS, even if you just want to top up the haldex oil to the maximum level you need to perform the air bleeding and clutch calibration . It is easily done if you have access to ISTA or another diagnostic software that support this operation.
I assume that the bleeding can be done by making the pump run for a minute by driving some kms, but to perform calibration you need specific software. I would't omit this step as it in some cases it is required for correct function of clutch. I suggest to do air bleeding first and the the calibration.

When i was performing the air bleeding and calibration i heard some discontinuous squeak produced by pump right at the end of each operation. Did someone experienced the same when doing it?

After 70 000 km the oil in haldex of my bmw was like a petrol. It is annoying that there is no way to drain the oil completely and easy remove the pump to clean its filter on BMW f48. I think it worth doing at least partial oil replacement though suction by syringe on every motor oil change if there is really no way to remove the pump.

Please, share your experience.

Complete workflow:
- Open screw plug
- Slowly top up the HOC Oil until it escapes from the opening.
- Wait for 5 minutes (The differential clutch consists of several oil compartments. In order to guarantee equal filling of the oil compartments, the waiting period must be strictly observed)
- Top up oil again.
- Tighten the screw plug hand-tight.
- Bleed the clutch of the rear axle differential
- wait at least 30 sec
- Calibrate the clutch

- Open screw plug (Oil must emerge from the opening)
- Renew the sealing
- Apply screw plug (10Nm).
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      08-10-2020, 11:48 AM   #19
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I just did a transmission fluid service, and while I was at it I did the front bevel gear fluid (or whatever BMW calls it).

Car has 25K on it, and the fluid looked terrible. I've had several other Haldex-equipped cars, and the front bevel box fluid always seems to take a beating (unlike the rear differential). I think it's a lot worse on the BMW, since the sump is so small. VW and Volvo both have about twice the fluid capacity vs. the 500ml sump on the X1.

Drain and fill is really easy, since there's a fill and drain plug. I'd really recommend changing this fluid.

Since I plan on changing this fluid pretty regularly (every 20K or so) and I'm always looking for an excuse to buy a new tool, this would really come in handy to get the air scoop out of the way: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/85380715

There are two E8 bolts, one of which is a bit of a pain to get to with a 3/8 drive socket... Was wishing I had something like this when doing the change.
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      08-10-2020, 08:12 PM   #20
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Jack,

Front bevel gear fluid = transfer case fluid, or something else? Also, you happen to take pics of the drain and fill plugs, or have a link to service instructions? Will probably do as you suggested when I do the ATF drain and fill, but I don't want to accidentally drain the wrong fluid and overfill something else.

I've read some horror stories of DIY gone wrong for other cars (e.g., accidentally draining ATF fluid and overfilling the front diff, etc). I want to avoid any headaches like this.

Thanks again bro.
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      08-10-2020, 11:33 PM   #21
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As I'm not a BMW guy, I was unsure as the nomenclature they use. Looks like BMW refers to the front mechanism as a transfer case (Volvo calls it an angle gear, VW=bevel gear, Ford=Power Takeoff Unit/PTU, etc..). Unfortunately I didn't take photos, but I'm glad to help walk you through it.

All of the Haldex systems are basically the same; the transmission bolts to the front mech (whatever it's called), which has two outputs. One goes to the prop shaft and then to the back, and the other goes to the passenger side CV axle.

I think the confusion/fluid disasters are actually specific to the rear. This happens constantly in the VW world, in part because of the packaging orientation of the rear units. In the rear, the Haldex and rear differentials are bolted together, so they look like a single piece. The Haldex unit is designed so that the same unit can be installed in various orientations. The one VW chose is by far the easiest to service. Unfortunately the drain and fill plug orientation is confusing to some folks, and all of the plugs are pretty close to each other. It's not uncommon for dealer techs to fill the rear diff with Haldex fluid or just overfill the Haldex and not fill the differential at all. Needless to say, this always ends in tears...

For the front, it's pretty hard to screw up. The fill plug is shown here:https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...box/1VnYa4pH50

Note the orientation: the output to the right in that photo is the right CV axle, and the other ouput goes to the propshaft. So, if you're working on the car from the front, it will be right behind the CV axle. It runs perpendicular to the ground. The drain plug is shown earlier in this thread, but you can't miss it. It points straight down. Note that you have to remove the air duct to really see the fill plug (item#1 shown in post#8 on this thread). Two E8 bolts hold it in place, then it just pulls out.

I just checked the fluid capacity, because I was wondering if I under-filled it. I didn't... Fluid capacity is only .4L. Ouch... Honestly, if I were doing this again I probably would have used a 75W110 gear oil in there. Had no idea the sump was that small. I used Castrol Syntrax Long Life 75W90 (NOT the Limited Slip fluid), which I'm pretty sure is the OEM fill. Any GL-5 75W90/75W110 NON limited slip fluid will work fine in there.

Given the sump size, I feel even more strongly about doing this on a regular basis.
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      08-11-2020, 12:17 PM   #22
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Thanks much, Jack. Will save post for future reference. I'll try to remember to take some pics whenever I get around to this service.
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