[xavlang21]

Hi everyone,

I would like some opinions before going to the dealership.

I was driving yesterday in the cold Canadian winter and got an iDrive warning about a motor issue. The car was shaking very badly and wasn't able to get near highway speed. After my short trip, I've checked up codes from the car with ISTA+.

Here is the result : 130F11, 140010, 140110, 140101, 140210, 140201, 151001, 02670B, 026708, E06C3C, D90D1A, S 0772, 160021, 140102, 140002, 118002, 140202.

Quite a lot to be honest...

Can I do something from my end to rectify the situation or really need a diag from some BMW Tech?

Thanks,

[MJE60]

Originally Posted by xavlang21

Hi everyone,

I would like some opinions before going to the dealership.

I was driving yesterday in the cold Canadian winter and got an iDrive warning about a motor issue. The car was shaking very badly and wasn't able to get near highway speed. After my short trip, I've checked up codes from the car with ISTA+.

Here is the result : 130F11, 140010, 140110, 140101, 140210, 140201, 151001, 02670B, 026708, E06C3C, D90D1A, S 0772, 160021, 140102, 140002, 118002, 140202.

Quite a lot to be honest...

Can I do something from my end to rectify the situation or really need a diag from some BMW Tech?

Also is there any hotline for essential workers for these vehicles to be repaired asap? (Canada, Quebec)

Thanks,

Hi
You do not say if this was a temporary problem or is permanent, nor if this was soon after start or after the car had warmed up and some time into the (short) journey. Many of the codes such as 118002, 151002, the various cylinder misfire codes and fuel mixture rich codes, injector “therefore temporarily switched off” codes, ignition timing, oil viscosity can be triggered by extreme cold. Some owners report some of these codes at start in extreme cold. A simple scenario/example extreme cold weather so fuel mixture is too rich for sub zero air at intake, this causes multiple cylinder misfires, exhaust gas then full of unburnt fuel, tiggers further faults, car goes into limp mode. Meanwhile oil viscosity too thick due to cold triggering several other codes. Weather gets warmer and no symptoms car drives fine.

If However your symptoms remain and the car stays in “limp” reduced power mode, especially if faults were cleared and they have returned then ‘
-many of the codes can be triggered by a faulty ignition coil (or short) which overloads (or even damages) the ecu throwing about 6 further fault codes (which you have listed). Or
-a faulty camshaft sensor (causes timing to go out, then wrong fuelling and misfires) but can be a DME memory fault also,
-a software issue, BMW gave a recall notice for one of these codes, or
-a faulty module (identified by the module fault code), or even
-Another possibility is damage to wiring caused by rodents, causing shorting.

Sorry, ideas but no solution, I sincerely hope it is not the ecu and you get this fixed quickly (and cheaply).

[xavlang21]

Originally Posted by MJE60

Hi
You do not say if this was a temporary problem or is permanent, nor if this was soon after start or after the car had warmed up and some time into the (short) journey. Many of the codes such as 118002, 151002, the various cylinder misfire codes and fuel mixture rich codes, injector “therefore temporarily switched off” codes, ignition timing, oil viscosity can be triggered by extreme cold. Some owners report some of these codes at start in extreme cold. A simple scenario/example extreme cold weather so fuel mixture is too rich for sub zero air at intake, this causes multiple cylinder misfires, exhaust gas then full of unburnt fuel, tiggers further faults, car goes into limp mode. Meanwhile oil viscosity too thick due to cold triggering several other codes. Weather gets warmer and no symptoms car drives fine.

If However your symptoms remain and the car stays in “limp” reduced power mode, especially if faults were cleared and they have returned then ‘
-many of the codes can be triggered by a faulty ignition coil (or short) which overloads (or even damages) the ecu throwing about 6 further fault codes (which you have listed). Or
-a faulty camshaft sensor (causes timing to go out, then wrong fuelling and misfires) but can be a DME memory fault also,
-a software issue, BMW gave a recall notice for one of these codes, or
-a faulty module (identified by the module fault code), or even
-Another possibility is damage to wiring caused by rodents, causing shorting.

Sorry, ideas but no solution, I sincerely hope it is not the ecu and you get this fixed quickly (and cheaply).

I've erased the fault code this morning and ran the car again. Same problem but less vibration than before!
I've managed to check the camshaft sensor in ISTA+ and it was giving no sign of life... (From what I recall)

Also to clarify, I was driving for at least 40 minutes when this first occurred and the car was at operating temp. The external temp was -15c at that time.

Here are the new codes after the quick startup this morning: 130F11, 140101, 140010, 140110, 140001, 140002, 140102.

I would like to add that I got a K&N 33-3025 installed before the winter began. Would it be possible that this created some sort of problem?

[Ridin'Dirty]

For others that don't have access to ISTA, you could plug those codes into this website to see what they mean:
https://bmwfault.codes/

[MJE60]

Originally Posted by xavlang21

I've erased the fault code this morning and ran the car again. Same problem but less vibration than before!
I've managed to check the camshaft sensor in ISTA+ and it was giving no sign of life... (From what I recall)

Also to clarify, I was driving for at least 40 minutes when this first occurred and the car was at operating temp. The external temp was -15c at that time.

Here are the new codes after the quick startup this morning: 130F11, 140101, 140010, 140110, 140001, 140002, 140102.

I would like to add that I got a K&N 33-3025 installed before the winter began. Would it be possible that this created some sort of problem?

Hi
I totally doubt the air filter will be causing this although I am not sure what the oil on K&N filter screen would look like at -15c, it could be having poor airflow but would not be throwing camshaft sensor warnings. For really cold winters I would thing conventional filter would be better and save the K&N for Summer.

From the new codes looks like camshaft sensor, which would cause timing, fueling and misfire problems. A pain but good news, looking less likely to be ecu.

[xavlang21]

Quick update :

Cylinder 1-2 can't hold near the same PSI as 3-4 even with the wet test.

I'm currently waiting for news from BMW about this weird issue.

[MJE60]

Originally Posted by xavlang21

Quick update :

Cylinder 1-2 can't hold near the same PSI as 3-4 even with the wet test.

I'm currently waiting for news from BMW about this weird issue.

If camshaft sensor is U/S then valves on 3-4 could be left partially open and result in low compression. Valves could also be damaged by faulty cam sensor.

https://www.cashcarsbuyer.com/is-it-...mshaft-sensor/

[xavlang21]

From what the dealer told me, the ring of the cylinder 1 was toasted.

They replaced the motor for 0$ and I didn't need to complain a bit.

It's the first time that I see a motor from that generation fails like that. Even for the tech, it was a first!

[fast1eddy]

What year and mileage was your X1 when they replaced your engine. I believe my daughter's car has a skipped timing chain in her 2016 X1.The car only has 108k kms on it.

[xavlang21]

Originally Posted by fast1eddy

What year and mileage was your X1 when they replaced your engine. I believe my daughter's car has a skipped timing chain in her 2016 X1.The car only has 108k kms on it.

2017, 63k KM. Did you scan the car with Ista or any other OBD related tool yet?

[fast1eddy]

Originally Posted by xavlang21

2017, 63k KM. Did you scan the car with Ista or any other OBD related tool yet?

Took it to my local indie shop and the fault is 130F20. It's now at BMW dealer and they can't seem to find what's wrong. I think they know what's wrong but not how to deal with it.

[xavlang21]

Originally Posted by fast1eddy

Took it to my local indie shop and the fault is 130F20. It's now at BMW dealer and they can't seem to find what's wrong. I think they know what's wrong but not how to deal with it.

It looks like a different problem than mine but your theory of the timing chain skipping seems possible! Did you take a long interval between each oil change?

I will code mine to change it every 8000km or 5000 miles like my old Hyundai.

[fast1eddy]

I believe she followed whatever the car told her for intervals. It's still at the dealer being fixed. I don't know exactly what they've found but at least they're covering it. We were told they have been seeing a few of these cars with timing chain problems. This was a reengineered engine that was supposed to address the problems they had with the N20 engine.