07-12-2021, 10:11 PM | #1 |
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Rough Idle/Stall On Cold Start & Lack Of Power Accelerating - Dealer Can't Find Issue
I purchased my 2018 X2 XDrive in May of 2020 with around 54,000 miles. When I first purchased the vehicle during my first oil change I had a BMW dealership due some type of computer reprogram because it was shifting hard between gears and didn’t feel normal. That reprogram fixed that but then in the fall of 2020 I started getting a new issue.
On cold starts if I tried to put it into drive less than 30 seconds after starting the vehicle it would idle rough and/or rev up and down to the point the car was shaking then stall out. It only stalled a 1-2 times before I started letting it run for a little longer before trying to put it in drive. The issue above could also describe it as a 'jerking' feeling or off and on feeling of power when hitting the gas peda (while the RPMs also went up and down). If I let the car sit for 30 seconds it was perfectly fine. After one occasion of it stalling it threw a P050B code saying “Cold Start Ignition Timing Performance” according to the Autozone scan (Dec 2020 with 63K miles). It cleared itself within 24-48 hours. My hope was the spark plug service that I just did at around 72,000 miles on my last oil change around 65,000 miles would fix this problem but it hasn't. I'm at around 72,000 miles now and the issue is still present. In addition to that (not sure if it’s related) I'm also experiencing hesitation when accelerating especially when doing a smooth acceleration from a stop or even trying to pass a car on the freeway. It's not everytime but when it happens it's very noticeable. It almost feels like the gas pedal isn't doing anything when it happens during acceleration then it finally starts trying to catch up or that ‘off and on’ feeling of power and no power then power again. This issue seems to be more noticeable if I accelerate while taking a turn (say at a street light). I've posted on a FB group of X2 owners and everyone seems to think this is ECU related and a software update would fix the cold start issue. I've read others having the same issue and that resulted in a fix. No one seems to have the second issue that I'm experiencing though which concerns me. To complicate things I spoke with the dealership who just did the spark plug service and a computer reprogram is not covered under my Powertrain+ Warranty so I'll be out the $250 to “try that”. $250 is a small price to pay for a fix but I don’t want to blindy waste money on one either if it’s something else. The dealership couldn’t find any codes or issues when it was in for service last month and of course they couldn’t replicate the issue either. The issue when driving where I have issues with the power when accelerating may have even increased. Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this? Last edited by jvivlemore; 07-24-2021 at 05:11 PM.. Reason: Updated. |
07-13-2021, 05:13 AM | #2 |
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Can only be air, spark, fuel.
Easy culprits would be coil packs and filters |
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07-13-2021, 06:56 AM | #3 |
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My guess would be the boost control valve. If it opens at cold idle, it will explain the rough running and stalls. If it fails to open under load, it explains the lack of power.
The valve is electrically activated in these cars, so it could be a signal issue, or also mechanical, if I'm right... |
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07-13-2021, 06:15 PM | #4 |
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get the ecu update for cold start and check your plugs again. what did you buy? hopefully not knock offs from ebay.
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07-14-2021, 01:51 PM | #5 |
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The spark plugs/wires were done by the service department at a BMW dealership. I'm not sure exactly what they used though but I'm assuming OEM. I've had others mention this ECU update to me. I want to say I had one of these done already but I'll ask for another.
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07-15-2021, 08:39 PM | #6 |
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Keep us posted…
I had some hesitation recently but it was from spark plug failing on cylinder 2. There was some corrosion on my wiring as well. I didn't actually see the corrosion but trusting what my mechanic said. |
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07-23-2021, 09:58 PM | #7 |
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Update:
I spoke with the same dealership who did my spark plug service. He said that the ECU/Computer Reprogram is NOT covered under my Powertrain+ Warranty so I'll be out the $250 to roll the dice with that if I want to try it. He also mentioned during my first oil change a different BMW dealership did in fact do a computer reprogram because I was experimenting a rough shift. It was smooth but hard if that makes sense. That fixed that issue but then this developed after that. He suggested I call that dealership and see if they have details on what update they did because he couldn't see the details at his dealership. I'm considering bringing it to an independent shop now that the ECU isn't covered in my warranty unless anyone has any other thoughts or suggestions? Last edited by jvivlemore; 07-24-2021 at 05:13 PM.. |
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07-25-2021, 02:51 PM | #8 |
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I looked up more information about the code that the car threw back in December 2020 after stalling (which ended up clearing itself 2 days later). A scan at Autozone revealed P050B.
Someone in another group thinks it might not be ECU related but I may have boost/vacuum leak ... didn't think of that? Thoughts? ===== Error Code P050B is defined as Cold Start Ignition Timing Performance. This code is a generic trouble code, meaning it applies to all vehicles equipped with OBD-II system or vehicles made since 1996 up to present. This includes vehicles from but not limited to BMW, Dodge, Ford, Jaguar, Jeep, Land Rover, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Volkswagen, etc. Specifications on the definition, troubleshooting, and performance, of course, vary from one make and model to another. If the vehicle stores this code, that means the PCM (powertrain control module, also known as ECM or engine control module in other vehicle makes) has determined a problem in the vehicle’s ignition timing control system. The term ‘Cold Start’ is used to describe the engine’s drivability strategy that is used only when the engine at (or below) the ambient temperature. OBD-II vehicles come with a distributor-less ignition system, thus the PCM is tasked to deliver a base timing strategy and to advance and retard ignition timing as required. Changes in engine load and RPM demand varying degrees of ignition timing to help optimize engine performance and maximize fuel efficiency. To compensate for the lower combustion chamber temperature during cold season (when the engine is cold) timing is advanced slightly. In the event that the engine overheats or when knock sensors are activated, the ignition timing is retarded by the PCM to prevent engine damage. If the PCM can no longer control the ignition timing, then the Error Code P050B will be stored, activating the Check Engine light. For most vehicles, it will require multiple ignition cycle failures to activate the Check Engine light. Common Symptoms Excessively rich exhaust Engine stalls at idle Pinging noise upon acceleration Possible Causes Severe vacuum leak Defective ECT sensor Open or shorted circuits or connectors Bad CKP or CMP sensor |
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07-25-2021, 07:16 PM | #9 |
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Pxxxx codes are generic and are of very limited use in any modern engine diagnosis. You need the BMW-specific code, which should have been stored and still readable unless someone "cleared codes". Do you have access to a BMW-aware tool or app?
One possible cause of such an issue is a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. But you'll need the BMW code to nail that down. |
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08-07-2021, 10:05 PM | #10 |
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We've been having what might be the same issue, or might be something else..?
2016 X1 w/ 54k miles. At cold start (1st start of the day) the car starts fine and idles fine... until we shift into gear (reverse, usually). Then as we back out of the driveway the idle fluctuates badly and the car bucks, shudders, and surges. Once in awhile this occurs still when we shift into a forward gear, but most of the time it's just that brief initial time in reverse. A couple of times the car stalled on us, and a couple other times it was bucking so bad we shut it down and then re-started it... after which it runs fine. Been doing this for about 9 months. NO ERROR CODES thrown the whole time. Way back in December I had my independent BMW specialist take a look, but with no codes and his inability to re-create the problem (of course) no action was taken. For me, what's weird is that the idle is stable until the tranny is shifted into gear. Why would the act of shifting into gear (not even moving yet) cause the idle to start fluctuating? - I keep thinking it may be something with the transmission not the engine. But hey, I'm not a mechanic. I have not taken it to a dealer yet, but that may be the next step. Thoughts? Is this the same "cold start rough idle" problem others are complaining about? Should I take it to the dealer and ask for the ecu update? Anything else I should look into? |
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08-07-2021, 10:13 PM | #11 |
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Also found this thread... it really sounds like my ECU needs and update.
https://f48.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ght=rough+idle |
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11-22-2021, 12:17 AM | #12 |
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Hello from France
I got a very similar issue during over three years between 120.000 km and 180.000 km It was on another car Peugeot 3008 with Diesel engine with automatic injection and robotised gear box (automatic) I changed the start heating plugs with no improvement I did a full regeneration of the particul filter on the exhaust I changed also the exhaust valve without improvement So finally, I changed the clutch and It was OK, I drived 2 extra years 30.000 km without problem and then i bought an X2 I suspected the clutch from the beginning but as it was not a cheap change I tried easier things first What was strange to me is that the clutch and the automatic gear box did their job almost 100% Good luck for your car |
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11-22-2021, 11:52 AM | #13 |
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You 100% got a bad software update we had this exact problem, this is common knowledge at the dealer so I suggest try another dealership. When I told my service writer about the stalling with no codes he immediately knew it was an “unfavorable dme update”
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02-14-2022, 07:42 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
Start the car, even in warm weather and pop it into gear after a few seconds and the car bucks and wants to stall. Being a lease I didn't really care, I just let it warm up for 30 seconds and no rough idle etc. Ended up buying the car due to the current car market and did brakes and air filter... The air filter was pretty dirty and immediately solved the issue. I can throw it in gear a few seconds after and it does not rough idle. I think the dirty filter (it has foam glued to it so is more restrictive than a regular paper filter) caused the engine to run rich on start up which caused the rough idle, bucking, and sometimes stalling. Check your air filter!
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02-14-2022, 10:43 PM | #15 |
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Scares me when I hear about issues after a 'software update'. This Wednesday have to take the car in for a safety recall where they have to do an update. So fingers crossed all comes out ok !!
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02-22-2022, 06:56 AM | #16 |
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Did anyone that experienced this issue also have some smoking coming from the exhaust?
We’re looking for a 2017ish x1 for our teenage daughter. Test drove one yesterday and it drove great except on startup, it seemed to idle rough and felt like it was struggling to stay running. I didn’t spend enough time with it to see if it would go away after a while. I had a similar issue with my f30 (minus the smoking) which was resolved with new plugs and coils. Originally I was thinking to run from this vehicle but now that I’ve slept on it, I’m wondering if it could be reasonable for me to manage and maintain myself. It’s a pretty good deal so that’s why I’m considering. |
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03-04-2023, 09:10 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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05-02-2023, 03:59 PM | #18 |
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Bumping this thread. I am experiencing the same issues.
New spark plugs and coils, air intake filter is new. 44K miles on the clock for my 2018 X2 It does not happen every morning, but it does happen from time to time at random. The description of the issue is the same. Hesitation, roughness - and on occasion stalling - when the car is placed into gear (reverse in my case). Interested on knowing if OP finally resolved this issue, and whether the software update worked. Other than a recurring turn signal failure issue (fixed by replacing the tail light assembly - done at the dealer under CPO), the car has been reliable. |
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05-04-2023, 04:04 PM | #19 |
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I have the same issue on the wife's car intermittantly.. I just tell her to turn on the car right away, and by the time she's ready to go it's behaving.. ie really 30 seconds of idling it'll be fine. I am too busy/too lazy to try to make an appointment for the software update. I have changed plugs before, and changed air filter a couple of time and no real problem. Car behaves perfectly normal in every other single case just on the quick startup/slam it into gear.
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