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      09-01-2020, 03:27 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcelir8bmw View Post
Also thinking about fender-well hidden way of doing it.
Oh, just drill a hole in the fender and put that nice weather-sealed connector right on it. Then tell people it's the world's most efficient plug-in hybrid!
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      09-01-2020, 07:07 PM   #24
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Ah, yeah, no.
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      09-02-2020, 12:29 PM   #25
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So I spent more than an hour yesterday, seriously analyzing a way to 'modify something' that would be 'clean' and 'convenient' for the once-a-week I need to drive/park the car and tender it.

I have come to the the conclusion that nothing meets these tenants.

Therefore, I am just going to live with what I did with my 'open the hood' tendering solution. I did move the cable a little bit under a bar so it is not so noticeable - for those who notice and know this BMW engine bay.

This is the first time where I actually hadn't modified something due to an idea.

The only location that I feel that could work 'real well' but such as pain in the ass to modify (i.e. get out) is the drivers side bottom front vent area. You could easily put that connector there and it wouldn't be seen, but good enough protection to the elements. And it would look cool once you see it. However, I don't see the effort at this point. If I drove my car daily and wanted to do this, then yeah, I would do it.

Otherwise, there ya go folks!
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      09-02-2020, 01:57 PM   #26
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Yeah you're probably right, the car is nice and tight, no gaps or wasted surfaces. Best to leave it tucked away.

Thanks for the idea though, I'm going to do the same before the snow flies here.
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      09-02-2020, 03:48 PM   #27
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I thought you were leaving the car longer spurts unattended.. not just a week. Honestly that's pretty overkill. If you are leaving your car for more than 3 weeks at a time I would say you should plug it in more, but once a week is just too much! The other fun suggestion would be the front grille like in Canada we plug in our cars, but fishing it out from a tucked place is just not cool. Another suggestion that isn't that great either would be to fish it in through the car and mount the plug either in some place crafty or just let it hang under the dash. But at that point I would just rather open up the hood
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      09-03-2020, 07:36 AM   #28
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If I didn't tender, here in the Midwest when it is too Hot or too Cold after about 6 to 7 days the BMW when entering vehicle provides me a message that it shut down auxiliaries and furthermore cannot due remote venting, etc..

When I do drive it is not long and far enough for alternator to charge battery. I get home and battery is usually at 25 to 40 percent after 100 percent charge pre drive.
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      09-03-2020, 09:17 AM   #29
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Agreed, the adaptive/regenerative charging works the battery pretty hard, and short trips especially. The very first thing the shops do is to charge the battery when one comes in - it takes a lot of questions off the table.

This is one reason the car is equipped with an AGM-type cell. These are good for deep-discharge and large reserve. The charging algorithms depend on it for their efficiency. Topping it off with a proper charging unit during times of light use is a good thing IMO.
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      09-03-2020, 10:56 AM   #30
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Exactly.
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      09-03-2020, 11:26 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcelir8bmw View Post
If I didn't tender, here in the Midwest when it is too Hot or too Cold after about 6 to 7 days the BMW when entering vehicle provides me a message that it shut down auxiliaries and furthermore cannot due remote venting, etc..

When I do drive it is not long and far enough for alternator to charge battery. I get home and battery is usually at 25 to 40 percent after 100 percent charge pre drive.
Ouch, I guess my daily commute is about 50 miles so it tops up pretty fast. Interesting how one week could knock it down though, the only troubles I had was when my E60 was out in the frigid winter for more than 2 weeks it was a problem.. that car also ate batteries every 3.5 yrs on the clock. So far the wife's X1 is 4 years and the same battery.. but now we have a garage so although it gets cold.. not that cold
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      09-03-2020, 12:53 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice_rocket88 View Post
Ouch, I guess my daily commute is about 50 miles so it tops up pretty fast.
Don't assume it's charging the battery just because the engine is running. The system actually de-energizes the alternator to save power.

Watch the little efficiency gauge at the lower right of the instrument - when the blue bars are showing, it's in regen mode. The system engages the torque converter and uses the car's momentum to drive the crankshaft while it re-energizes the alternator. In many other situations, it's only putting out a maintenance charge.

In Eco mode, it's even more extreme.
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      09-08-2020, 03:40 PM   #33
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I periodically put my X2 on a charger. It typically takes several hours to fully charge the battery, even if the car has just been driven, which demonstrates the downside of BMW's pursuit of fuel economy at all cost. Often when I initially connect the charger, the current draw can be 15 A or more for a few minutes.

I use a HP 6033A laboratory power supply to charge my cars. It's not suitable for unattended charging, but gives direct control and visibility of the charging voltage and current. I charge at 14.4 V until the charging current is 1% of the Ah rating, which is fairly widely used in the battery industry. After charging, I let the battery float at 13.6 V for several more hours, unless I need to drive the car.
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      09-16-2020, 01:38 PM   #34
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With the batteries that our M35i cars have, can I still use any generic battery tender or trickle charger or do I need something with specific power/amperage? Working from home means I don't get to use my car out everyday so I would like to connect it to a tender when it's sitting on the driveway.
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      09-16-2020, 02:00 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcatral14 View Post
With the batteries that our M35i cars have, can I still use any generic battery tender or trickle charger or do I need something with specific power/amperage?
The stock battery is an AGM type, which requires a slightly higher charging voltage (~ +0.1V) from conventional ones. So, I would not recommend a generic cheapo - need to make sure it supports AGM well.

Regarding power, it depends. The car will certainly draw a significant current when initially hooking it up, because of the designed-in charging parameters. However, the battery will charge just fine at lower power, if given time.

Net-net, an AGM-specific maintenance charger of pretty much any power rating will work as a tender. CTek makes an excellent line, if somewhat pricey for the features you get.
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      10-20-2020, 11:13 AM   #36
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I changed my battery on X1 F48 today and car is from 12/2016.
It is too early and battery is 70Ah. It is replaced with VARTA also 70Ah but slightly higher Amps.
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      10-20-2020, 11:16 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by mil1234 View Post
I changed my battery on X1 F48 today and car is from 12/2016.
It is too early and battery is 70Ah. It is replaced with VARTA also 70Ah but slightly higher Amps.
Thanks for sharing! May I ask why you changed it? Was it dead or won't hold a charge anymore? What kind of driving do you do? A lot of short trips or don't use the car a lot? Thanks and sorry for the questions.
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      10-20-2020, 11:20 AM   #38
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I changed because you can hear that car struggling when starting. I measure voltage and when stand still 12.3V, during starts it is only 8.1V and later is going to 11.6V. When alternator starts to charge it is cca 14V. I am driving longer routes that's why I am supprised a bit...
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      10-20-2020, 12:28 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mil1234 View Post
I changed because you can hear that car struggling when starting. I measure voltage and when stand still 12.3V, during starts it is only 8.1V and later is going to 11.6V. When alternator starts to charge it is cca 14V. I am driving longer routes that's why I am supprised a bit...
Interesting. You have long drives but battery lasted less than 4 years only. Maybe cars these days need a battery tender automatically. Hopefully your new battery lasts longer.

Thanks for your post
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      10-20-2020, 01:12 PM   #40
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This is the diesel engine X1, right? I can imagine it would show weakness sooner, but it's definitely early. Well, good to replace before the weather turns cold!
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      10-23-2020, 09:45 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by //TMT View Post
This is the diesel engine X1, right? I can imagine it would show weakness sooner, but it's definitely early. Well, good to replace before the weather turns cold!
Yes it is diesel engine 2.0 150HP
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      10-25-2020, 11:52 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mil1234 View Post
I changed my battery on X1 F48 today and car is from 12/2016.
It is too early and battery is 70Ah. It is replaced with VARTA also 70Ah but slightly higher Amps.
According to the parts department of the dealership where I bought my X2, they are equipped with either a 70 Ah or 80 Ah depending on the options. No idea if that's true, but I haven't heard a better explanation of why there are two battery sizes.
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      10-25-2020, 11:55 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mil1234 View Post
I changed because you can hear that car struggling when starting. I measure voltage and when stand still 12.3V, during starts it is only 8.1V and later is going to 11.6V. When alternator starts to charge it is cca 14V. I am driving longer routes that's why I am supprised a bit...
A couple of years ago, I read about the problem of short battery life on 5 series with V8 engines. As far as I recall, the system only charges the battery when the car is decelerating. If you are driving long distances at relatively steady speed, it does not charge the battery. The reason the batteries are failing is because they never get fully charged.
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