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      06-01-2016, 07:51 AM   #1
stefan
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Fuse for radar detector hardwire

Does anyone know which fuse position is only hot while the car is running? Could be like an accessory fuse or homelink mirror kinda thing. Just need to know where to piggyback my add a circuit to hardwire a radar detector and dash cam.
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      06-16-2016, 04:09 PM   #2
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      06-16-2016, 04:35 PM   #3
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I ended up going through the mirror with an invisicord, tapping into the switch 12V source. From what I remember it was the brown and red wire.

http://www.invisicord.com/order.html
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      06-16-2016, 06:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj_intrinsic
I ended up going through the mirror with an invisicord, tapping into the switch 12V source. From what I remember it was the brown and red wire.

http://www.invisicord.com/order.html
Hmmm...this, along with one of those dash arms that have an integrated housing around the BMW mirror would be a really neat solution!
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      06-17-2016, 03:38 AM   #5
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Does anyone have any pictures of the wiring inside the mirror housing?
(Also any tips on how you get to it without breaking anything!)
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      06-18-2016, 12:32 PM   #6
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Invisicords are ok.. but not if you want to daisychain both the camera and detector.

If I can find the accessory fuse, then this gets really easy.
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      07-10-2016, 06:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj_intrinsic View Post
I ended up going through the mirror with an invisicord, tapping into the switch 12V source. From what I remember it was the brown and red wire.

http://www.invisicord.com/order.html
Did you have any issues with your LED headlights sensor after this?

When you say red, did you mean pink and white? Normally on BMWs power is represented by something with a green stripe.. white/green, purple/green, brown/green. Nothing like that in the mirror harness though.



Anyone had any luck with a fuse? Is that symbol in the bottom right of the fuse chart the symbol for accessory or is that just AC power that stays on when the car is off.


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Last edited by stefan; 07-10-2016 at 06:43 PM..
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      07-11-2016, 02:07 AM   #8
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I am certainly no expert but have hard wired a few things over the years.
I have not done this on a BMW but if I had to, my first choice would be the horn fuse, probably 42.
My reasoning is - 1) It should only work with the ignition on. 2) It is 5amp which should be fine. 3) It is fairly accessible. 4) It is likely to be one of the least temperamental or sensitive circuits (but I might be wrong!)

These cars are so sensitive to any changes that I would be reluctant to try it.
Personally I would now rather part with some £££'s and let someone else have the worry.
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      07-11-2016, 05:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluezed View Post
I am certainly no expert but have hard wired a few things over the years.
I have not done this on a BMW but if I had to, my first choice would be the horn fuse, probably 42.
My reasoning is - 1) It should only work with the ignition on. 2) It is 5amp which should be fine. 3) It is fairly accessible. 4) It is likely to be one of the least temperamental or sensitive circuits (but I might be wrong!)

These cars are so sensitive to any changes that I would be reluctant to try it.
Personally I would now rather part with some £££'s and let someone else have the worry.
Normally the accessory fuse is the fuse of choice but it isn't labeled here. That is on its own circuit..
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      08-16-2016, 11:30 AM   #10
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Does anyone know how to interpret that symbology on the fuse paperwork and let me know where I can piggyback an add-a-circuit?
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      10-05-2016, 01:51 PM   #11
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Bump? Promise I'll give up after this one!
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      10-06-2016, 02:38 PM   #12
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I'm not going to pretend to be an expert. Do whatever modifications at your own risk. Please don't blame me if your car lights on fire.

I'm pretty sure the logo on the bottom right of the chart indicates the accessory fuse. Fuse 100 and 115 will probably be your best bet since they're rated for 5A. Double check that your radar detector is rated for at least 5A, otherwise, you'll need an add-a-fuse. Good luck!
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      10-06-2016, 03:31 PM   #13
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Fuse 52 is the homelink which is switched ACC with the mirror. I found out when my detector suction cup failed and created a short. Fuse blew as planned and didnt damage anything. Homelink and compass just didn't work. Replaced the fuse and good to go.
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      01-06-2017, 03:27 PM   #14
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I went to tap 52 or 55 today only to discover my fuse tap is regular size and these are mini-fuses.

Back to the drawing board.

Next I tapped 120 - worked but never went off.

Next I tapped 62 - its a 5amp and seems to control headlights, front wipers I think.

Once the vehicle "goes to sleep" (5 min timeout after locking the car?) 62 goes off too.

My fuse tap is a double so I guess if I blow the 5amp for the lights I will just remove the tap and use the spare in the other slot in the tap.

Anyone else tap any other? Thoughts?
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      02-03-2017, 11:20 PM   #15
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How about the negative end? Any near fuse box without removing the glove box? Thanks
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      04-08-2017, 11:05 PM   #16
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Anyone nail this down yet?
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      05-26-2017, 06:42 PM   #17
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104 should do the trick
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      06-30-2017, 09:16 AM   #18
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I've put off hardwiring a dashcam for about a year, so decided it was time.

Using a 20A 'add a fuse'.

FUSE 65 = powers off with the car, same as the cigarette power ports.
FUSE 104 = doesn't power off, is permanently on.

I tried 104, but came out one morning to see a 'battery discharge' warning and had to unlock the car using the key fob button.

I've moved to 65 and the dashcam powers off with the cigarette power port in the centre console.

From my reading of the fuse map, I tried 65 as it isn't shared with anything else on the map, 63 is shared with the tow bar / cycle carrier.

Tips for the RHD:

Prise away the side of the glovebox that faces the door with the passenger airbag switch first.
Prise away the lower section under the glovebox.
Remove the lower screw nearest the door.
Open the glovebox.
Remove the recessed screw nearest the centre console.
Remove the four upper screws.
Ease the glovebox out and down, there is a pad on top of the box.
Remove the power to the glovebox light, or it'll just pull out anyway.

Connect the negative wire under the nut under the nice big bolt which sits just outside of the glovebox area near the door.

When re-assembling, the recessed screw is the one that will require patience and is easier when you're lying in the footwell.

Other general tip, wrap the dashcam wiring in fabric Tesa tape then use velcro tie-wraps to hold the wiring against something. All for stopping any new noises.

Lastly, using FUSE 65 means the paper fuse map and fuse puller won't go back.
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      07-03-2017, 10:45 PM   #19
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Thanks!
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      07-05-2017, 03:25 AM   #20
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jsdh89j9ijkL, awesome share! Now i can order that dashcam I have been eyeing 😉
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      08-21-2017, 01:35 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj_intrinsic View Post
Fuse 52 is the homelink which is switched ACC with the mirror. I found out when my detector suction cup failed and created a short. Fuse blew as planned and didnt damage anything. Homelink and compass just didn't work. Replaced the fuse and good to go.
I'd like to hardwire a V1 and also go through the RVM using an Invisicord.

Do you remember if the connector pins you selected for the Invisicord were the standard (3/4 x 1/8) or micro (1/2 x 1/16)?

Invisicord rep told me they have "old" standard pins that work well with BMW. But the F48 is fairly new...
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      04-12-2018, 09:00 PM   #22
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Not seeing a good grounding option on the LHD model. Did you guys find one when removing the glovebox?
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