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      10-03-2021, 07:43 PM   #23
Skyline2.0
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Attached pics of my plugs that were replaced today at 51k miles. I bought BMW OEM plugs, which were the same maker as the one I removed - NGK.

Performance feels about the same before and after. Fuel economy improvement, if any, is pending.

I did not apply anti-seize on plug threads or silicone lube in ignition coil, per BMW instructions. Blew out the plug holes with compressed air after removing ignition coil and again before installing new plug. There was some carbon junk and other particles in all the plug holes. Get all the trash out or you may end up with a leak, misfire or spark plug coming loose.
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      10-04-2021, 04:55 PM   #24
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...tbh, i don't know what i'd gain by changing the plug gap.

Also, i don't have the spec form BMW what it should be.
NGK sets them 0.030" This is the way I've left it for now.

I've read in other places that with tunes and mods, 0.022" is the gap to set.
I'm running stock.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrveron View Post
Awesome! Thanks for the update.

Glad to hear it's running smoothly. I may give it a try as well =).

Regarding the gap, AFAIK, 0.030" is the factory setup. What would you gain by changing it? I read in other BMW's forums that they got problems when the gap is not right.
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      10-04-2021, 04:57 PM   #25
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Thanks, looks much the same from mine. No anti-seize for sure, and from the way these coils sit, i doubt much if any moisture will make it down those bores. No need for di-electric grease.


Cheers,


Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
Attached pics of my plugs that were replaced today at 51k miles. I bought BMW OEM plugs, which were the same maker as the one I removed - NGK.

Performance feels about the same before and after. Fuel economy improvement, if any, is pending.

I did not apply anti-seize on plug threads or silicone lube in ignition coil, per BMW instructions. Blew out the plug holes with compressed air after removing ignition coil and again before installing new plug. There was some carbon junk and other particles in all the plug holes. Get all the trash out or you may end up with a leak, misfire or spark plug coming loose.
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      10-04-2021, 05:08 PM   #26
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...just a f.y.i

When cleaning out the bores. I recommend blowing out the holes before taking out the plugs, then unscrew them most of the way, don't take them out, blow out the dirt again, and them remove them completely.

I made the mistake of blowing out the debris after i removed the plug on cyl#1. There was quite a bit of stuff that came out. Not sure how much got into the cylinder. (not much i hope)
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      10-04-2021, 05:09 PM   #27
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My plugs, old and new...

Pics of the original and new NGK
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      10-04-2021, 08:33 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COUWK View Post
Pics of the original and new NGK
Good reason to change them at ~50K miles and not try to extend them to save a few bucks.
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      10-05-2021, 12:09 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcs2229 View Post
Good reason to change them at ~50K miles and not try to extend them to save a few bucks.

I agree...
I've been driving my diesel for so long, I've been spoiled on that front
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      10-07-2021, 08:23 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrveron View Post
More info here. I'm attaching the procedure to replace the spark plugs from ISTA, just for reference.
Thanks, how do you remove the bulkhead? I had to do this on my F32, it just took a few extra minutes and gives you plenty of room to work in.
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      10-08-2021, 12:17 AM   #31
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Hi there,

If I understood you correctly, you need to remove the rubber piece, and then you have to remove 2 little plastic 'screws,' one on each side. Then, after that, you push it a little upward and towards the front.

Or are you referring to another part? Let me know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by amancuso View Post
Thanks, how do you remove the bulkhead? I had to do this on my F32, it just took a few extra minutes and gives you plenty of room to work in.
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      01-29-2022, 07:57 AM   #32
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Just putting it out there.... I've seen (although not specifically on BMWs I've been around) spark plugs essentially seize themselves into the head because they weren't touched (loosened/re-tightened or replaced) since the factory put them in the engine when it was built.

Some manufacturers claim plugs are good for 100k mi. Yeah, good luck with getting a plug out of an aluminum head engine after it's been torqued in there for 100,000 miles (which could be 10 years or more based on annual miles driven).

Even if the electrodes might not be worn down (or worn out) I'd say it's darn good practice to put a socket on the plugs every few years.
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