[rice_rocket88]

Better pricing, I feel it's a little bit excessive for 2 hrs of time.. but it could also be 1.5 hrs plus shop fees and taxes that bring it up to the $240. If it were just the pads I think I could probably bang it out in 1 hr start to finish plus a bathroom break, but people need to make money.

[ttimbo]

Originally Posted by lonegun

If you want to elongate the life of your brakes for the X1, turn off VDC completely before you drive in dry condition. The car's VDC system seems to be quite aggressive in braking one side of the wheel in turning. Since the car is front wheel drive centric, you shouldn't run into too much problem without VDC. If it's a sDrive, you might run into torque steer with VDC out. Just go easy on the gas.

What is this "VDC", of which you speak? In the language of BMW, VDC is the variable damper control, which the F48 only has — faintly — as an option. It has no effect on brake wear.

I suspect you mean DSC (Dynamic Stability Control) and its sister DTC (Dynamic Traction Control), which uses the braking system and throttle control to reduce spinning or instability due to loss of traction in one or more wheels.

Why anyone would wish to disable this system — a safety system — in normal driving conditions just to save a few $ in brake wear is beyond me

Not recommended! :

[lonegun]

Originally Posted by ttimbo

What is this "VDC", of which you speak? In the language of BMW, VDC is the variable damper control, which the F48 only has — faintly — as an option. It has no effect on brake wear.

I suspect you mean DSC (Dynamic Stability Control) and its sister DTC (Dynamic Traction Control), which uses the braking system and throttle control to reduce spinning or instability due to loss of traction in one or more wheels.

Why anyone would wish to disable this system — a safety system — in normal driving conditions just to save a few $ in brake wear is beyond me

Not recommended! :

Thanks for the correction! Honestly, the car is so stable that I had not been able to make it lose control even with DTC off all the time. I can easily make that happen with a DTC on in a 3 series or even a dual motor tesla. I even turn DTC off in the snow for more predictable sideway actions. I can drive this car like a rally car in the snow/ice with DTC off.

Had this been a traditional BMW with the rear bias xdrive, I would definitely not recommend turning off the DTC.

But yes DTC WILL eat away your brakes during acceleration and turns. BMW decided not to use a LSD so that they can use the brakes to do tons of micro braking in controlling the car during acceleration during turns and making it sportier. LSD supposedly would make the car drive too straight during hard acceleration.

Of course I would only recommend this to more experienced driver starting in a drier condition.

[Jmhockey1920]

Originally Posted by rice_rocket88

Better pricing, I feel it's a little bit excessive for 2 hrs of time.. but it could also be 1.5 hrs plus shop fees and taxes that bring it up to the $240. If it were just the pads I think I could probably bang it out in 1 hr start to finish plus a bathroom break, but people need to make money.

Get yo butt down here to Tennessee then!

[rice_rocket88]

Originally Posted by Jmhockey1920

Get yo butt down here to Tennessee then!

Haha I used to get roped into doing so much for family members, but they all expected me to work for free. If you make the drive from Tennessee I'd do it for free though!

[rice_rocket88]

Originally Posted by lonegun

Thanks for the correction! Honestly, the car is so stable that I had not been able to make it lose control even with DTC off all the time. I can easily make that happen with a DTC on in a 3 series or even a dual motor tesla. I even turn DTC off in the snow for more predictable sideway actions. I can drive this car like a rally car in the snow/ice with DTC off.

Had this been a traditional BMW with the rear bias xdrive, I would definitely not recommend turning off the DTC.

But yes DTC WILL eat away your brakes during acceleration and turns. BMW decided not to use a LSD so that they can use the brakes to do tons of micro braking in controlling the car during acceleration during turns and making it sportier. LSD supposedly would make the car drive too straight during hard acceleration.

Of course I would only recommend this to more experienced driver starting in a drier condition.

I was just going to comment on the previous post about the VDC. I'd be surprised if the DTC itself causes any excessive brake wear. It is also a pain to always turn it off anyways. In the winter turning it off on the side roads does actually help in driving, although anything up to highway speeds I would leave it on. With DTC the worst part of it is turning out of a slippery road or parking lot in the winter only to have the DTC shut down your car halfway into the road.. wtf!

[Jmhockey1920]

Originally Posted by rice_rocket88

Haha I used to get roped into doing so much for family members, but they all expected me to work for free. If you make the drive from Tennessee I'd do it for free though!

It's a trap! You are trying to make me self quarantine for 14 days!

[lonegun]

Originally Posted by rice_rocket88

I was just going to comment on the previous post about the VDC. I'd be surprised if the DTC itself causes any excessive brake wear. It is also a pain to always turn it off anyways. In the winter turning it off on the side roads does actually help in driving, although anything up to highway speeds I would leave it on. With DTC the worst part of it is turning out of a slippery road or parking lot in the winter only to have the DTC shut down your car halfway into the road.. wtf!

For sure, DTC definitely can cut power in slippery condition like all other cars. If it's not for the DTC, I can't really think of a reason for the excessive brake wear. X1 is a pretty light SUV. Its brakes are not particularly small. Well, that's my theory based on what I read about the car's powertrain design, what's yours?

[rice_rocket88]

Originally Posted by lonegun

For sure, DTC definitely can cut power in slippery condition like all other cars. If it's not for the DTC, I can't really think of a reason for the excessive brake wear. X1 is a pretty light SUV. Its brakes are not particularly small. Well, that's my theory based on what I read about the car's powertrain design, what's yours?

That's a tough question to answer.. I'm saying that I would be surprised that the DTC is firing off so much to make it a problem. Also, DTC is pretty much on every single BMW and others don't necessarily see this issue. Also when DTC/traction is activated in theory your yellow light will blink in the dash.. so I would say it isn't in fact happening at all? When I get any tire slip in rain or snow that thing will go on in a heartbeat, so I would think that is when it's actually happening.

My thoughts are that all the materials aren't all created equal. A few users have had major surface corrosion and lack of use of their car. This itself leads to premature failure, as the rotor and all surfaces are crusty and ugly. Some are in climates that aren't so helpful either to this cause. In order for brake pads to wear faster it simply has to be in contact with the rotors more, so although some may say they don't drag their brakes or drive hard.. sometimes they do. The calipers might have also a lot of build up so they aren't fully releasing all the way. I myself have not experienced these issues and all my brakes are doing great. I've seen/worked on friends cars that look like complete hell. They live in the city and their cars are parked a lot, and in Boston they use a whack ton of salt in the winters. Not a lot of this helps to everyone's specific problems, but it seems that anyone that has gotten things sucessfully changed merely got a brake job done (and no faulty calipers/replacements). This could just mean the metal on the rotors were more prone to rusting... or this can mean the same problem is going to happen in a couple of years.


On another point, I find that the X1 and X2's braking system is way too sensitive. What I mean is that I have trouble stopping the car smoothly without having the car stop/jerk fast. Yes with time you get used to things, but when you have/drive a lot of cars and every time you get into the X1/X2 the first initial couple of brakes you find you're pushing it too hard so it stops too fast. This to me also makes my assumption that these brakes apply a lot more force than other cars, and so you may think you're driving it like any other car, but it is in fact pinching harder and wearing harder than other cars you may be used to. My wife has a tendency to drive fast, but a lot of it is highway. When she's going in other non familiar places in land, she drives too fast and stops too fast (my complaint). Just the other day she said she's not sure if the car is not stopping as fast so I went to check on her brakes and still lots of life on it. They are her stock brakes from 2016 and she's at 40K miles. The rotors and all the hardware look mint.. the problem was her entire car was filled with supplies she was moving and I told her that the car won't stop the same with an extra couple hundred lbs of stuff inside it .

[lonegun]

Originally Posted by rice_rocket88

That's a tough question to answer.. I'm saying that I would be surprised that the DTC is firing off so much to make it a problem. Also, DTC is pretty much on every single BMW and others don't necessarily see this issue. Also when DTC/traction is activated in theory your yellow light will blink in the dash.. so I would say it isn't in fact happening at all? When I get any tire slip in rain or snow that thing will go on in a heartbeat, so I would think that is when it's actually happening.

My thoughts are that all the materials aren't all created equal. A few users have had major surface corrosion and lack of use of their car. This itself leads to premature failure, as the rotor and all surfaces are crusty and ugly. Some are in climates that aren't so helpful either to this cause. In order for brake pads to wear faster it simply has to be in contact with the rotors more, so although some may say they don't drag their brakes or drive hard.. sometimes they do. The calipers might have also a lot of build up so they aren't fully releasing all the way. I myself have not experienced these issues and all my brakes are doing great. I've seen/worked on friends cars that look like complete hell. They live in the city and their cars are parked a lot, and in Boston they use a whack ton of salt in the winters. Not a lot of this helps to everyone's specific problems, but it seems that anyone that has gotten things sucessfully changed merely got a brake job done (and no faulty calipers/replacements). This could just mean the metal on the rotors were more prone to rusting... or this can mean the same problem is going to happen in a couple of years.


On another point, I find that the X1 and X2's braking system is way too sensitive. What I mean is that I have trouble stopping the car smoothly without having the car stop/jerk fast. Yes with time you get used to things, but when you have/drive a lot of cars and every time you get into the X1/X2 the first initial couple of brakes you find you're pushing it too hard so it stops too fast. This to me also makes my assumption that these brakes apply a lot more force than other cars, and so you may think you're driving it like any other car, but it is in fact pinching harder and wearing harder than other cars you may be used to. My wife has a tendency to drive fast, but a lot of it is highway. When she's going in other non familiar places in land, she drives too fast and stops too fast (my complaint). Just the other day she said she's not sure if the car is not stopping as fast so I went to check on her brakes and still lots of life on it. They are her stock brakes from 2016 and she's at 40K miles. The rotors and all the hardware look mint.. the problem was her entire car was filled with supplies she was moving and I told her that the car won't stop the same with an extra couple hundred lbs of stuff inside it .

Actually the system is constantly active even when the blinker light is off. It's almost "drive by wire" these days. When you are turning, the inner wheels do apply brakes to help with the turn. When hit on the gas hard in straight, the brakes will try to negate the effects of torque steer. X1 is class leading in handling thanks to the system. I heard the brakes would even preheat itself when the car is cold by apply micro braking and I am not sure turning off the DTC can actually disable that. I am really hoping turning off DTC can help to elongate my brake's life, or I would be changing to a bigger brake after this.

[ttimbo]

Can I just suggest lonegun and rice_rocket88 that you review your X1 handbook regarding the operation of DSC and DTC. There are very specific instructions regarding how to set the car up for maximum traction in very slippery (eg, snow, ice) conditions AND, when the car is set up for these conditions, it will actually be LESS stable, ie, controllable because of the trade-off to achieve traction.

As I said earlier, switching the DSC off as a means of saving on brake pads/rotors is unwise.

[rice_rocket88]

Originally Posted by ttimbo

Can I just suggest lonegun and rice_rocket88 that you review your X1 handbook regarding the operation of DSC and DTC. There are very specific instructions regarding how to set the car up for maximum traction in very slippery (eg, snow, ice) conditions AND, when the car is set up for these conditions, it will actually be LESS stable, ie, controllable because of the trade-off to achieve traction.

As I said earlier, switching the DSC off as a means of saving on brake pads/rotors is unwise.

Umm I think I'm all set, I have my own way that has been working with for the last two decades in the winter and.. it may even be the exact way the manual says it does. I'm still just trying to have a discussion with lonegun.

And with that said ... I'm curious myself is the DSC managed to activate itself this morning. I was coming out of a slow exit ramp turning around and up a pretty steep hill. I didn't bother switching to manual drive, but I did slowly give it a good pump on the gas. I had a short accelleration and then it kind of pittered out for a split second (like when you lose traction in the snow) .. this got me slightly worried as cars are bombing up the hill often speeding at 55mph or more. Then the power came back with a fury. No DSC/DTC/Traction control light went off... so either my car had a hiccup or that DSC did manage to function without any warning lights.

[lonegun]

Originally Posted by ttimbo

Can I just suggest lonegun and rice_rocket88 that you review your X1 handbook regarding the operation of DSC and DTC. There are very specific instructions regarding how to set the car up for maximum traction in very slippery (eg, snow, ice) conditions AND, when the car is set up for these conditions, it will actually be LESS stable, ie, controllable because of the trade-off to achieve traction.

As I said earlier, switching the DSC off as a means of saving on brake pads/rotors is unwise.

You mean the handbook that keeps BMW out of lawsuits? My answer would be, "Know your limit, road conditions limit, and car's limit, play within it!"

Unless of course, you buy the BMW just for the vanity.

[Jmhockey1920]

Off-topic but...when ordering the rear brake pads....all Ineed is the rear brake pads and sensor, right? I don't need to change out the parking breaks pads, right?

[Skyline2.0]

There's no separate parking brake pad. You'll need brake lubricant for the contact points where the pads touch the piston and bracket.

[Muad Dib]

Mine are at 47k miles and have 4mm left on all 4 corners according to dealer. Discs will need replacing as well. Actually looking to see if I can have some kind of upgrade as brakes are the worst part of the car in mine opinion. Especially for smaller engines, just to weak...

[Jmhockey1920]

Went with plan B on getting the pads changed out. My fathers company has a vehicle maintain facility behind them office, paid a dude $40. Much better than $250 at an indie place and $550 at the dealer. Only took him 40 mins.

Should I have had the rotators turned? He said he could do it for $10 extra but said he doesn’t believe in it. Thoughts?

[Jack Watts]

Originally Posted by Jmhockey1920

Went with plan B on getting the pads changed out. My fathers company has a vehicle maintain facility behind them office, paid a dude $40. Much better than $250 at an indie place and $550 at the dealer. Only took him 40 mins.

Should I have had the rotators turned? He said he could do it for $10 extra but said he doesn’t believe in it. Thoughts?

run your finger on the edge of the rotor, both front and back. If there's no discernible lip, I wouldn't bother; if there is, I'd have them turned.

[rice_rocket88]

Agree with Jack. Most people don't bother turning them anymore because the cost of the rotors isn't that much. Also, when you turn the rotors you shave down the thickness of the rotors as well (think premature wearing). If it's flat, then leave 'em. If they are scored, then definitely.. or you'll need to really bed in the new pads and expect to have to change them earlier. I'm sure that if your dads mechanic thought they weren't in good shape he would have told you that you needed to do it.

[Jmhockey1920]

Thanks for the input guys!

Is there anything different on the rear pads I should make him aware of? I remember seeing people mention the parking brake. Thanks!

[jaiello52]

just over 30k on my 2018 x1 and front rotors need replacing

[RavenX1]

I just had to replace my brake pads and rotors as well for both front and back. My car is 34k miles and a 2019 model year. I noticed that they wear down pretty easily and depending on how much you drive, the more they wear down. It's important to get them fixed asap to avoid issues. 🤷🏼‍♀️