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      11-30-2019, 04:01 PM   #1
Ion619
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DIY Oil Change F48

I've been searching for a tutorial or video in regards to a DIY oil change on the F48 X1, but I haven't been successful in coming across one. Do any of you have a link to share for a DIY oil change?

Thanks!
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      11-30-2019, 07:11 PM   #2
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Hmm well if you haven't found one let me try to explain it to you.. I didn't recall seeing one before, but someone had typed up something. Either way I literally did mine yesterday so I'll try to get all the measurements right in my head.

First there are two doors under the front. You can very much easily do this with car ramps. Both these doors are held in by these large spinning plastic discs. You just need a big fat screwdriver or even a quarter would do it.. you rotate the disc until there isn't a piece holding the door closed. First go for the oil plug which is the door furthest away (ie closer to the trunk). This plug is 17mm I believe. It's actually perpendicular to the ground and over to the left of the hole (lying down facing up). I actually just changed this for a magnetic oil plug. If you go slow the oil will drain relatively straight. One neat tip.. the doors flip so what you can do is open the first (closest) door a little and fold the rear door all the way open so that it catches on the first door.. close up the first door and it'll hold the flap in place.

Part 2 is not the most common type, but getting a little more common for the filter type cartridges. You need to open up the front door, this is the oil filter. Now if you have a binder clip you can clip it where it actually FOLDS open.. this is the only good way in my mind to keep it open. Use a 10mm (could be 13mm I might be a little off). In the inside of the filter, it'll pop off and you can drain the oil from the filter housing. Next is a 32mm shallow socket. This takes the entire filter cartridge out. Pop off the old filter, push the new one in. Also the new filters should come with a new gasket, and a new plug for the middle of the filter. Put all those together. Now this is what confused some people... the filter cartridge might have a felt type hole that is smaller than what you see come out. You simply just need to push that on it'll expand over the filter hole. Keep pushing until you can get the cap started.. and then you're golden. Close it all up (make sure that middle drain plug is tight) and fill up the oil with a 5qt jug of oil. I think the full capacity is 5.5 but unless you're the type to let the oil drain all day long I don't think you'll ever get there. Still the car oil reading said full so I'm good.

To reset that oil light you need to push the start button (without pressing the pedal). Hold the trip odometer like 10 seconds until that secret menu comes up. First thing should be oil change and it would say possible/impossible. Reset you hold it another 3 seconds. To cycle through other resets you just push that odo button.

Have fun!
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      11-30-2019, 11:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice_rocket88 View Post
Hmm well if you haven't found one let me try to explain it to you.. I didn't recall seeing one before, but someone had typed up something. Either way I literally did mine yesterday so I'll try to get all the measurements right in my head.

First there are two doors under the front. You can very much easily do this with car ramps. Both these doors are held in by these large spinning plastic discs. You just need a big fat screwdriver or even a quarter would do it.. you rotate the disc until there isn't a piece holding the door closed. First go for the oil plug which is the door furthest away (ie closer to the trunk). This plug is 17mm I believe. It's actually perpendicular to the ground and over to the left of the hole (lying down facing up). I actually just changed this for a magnetic oil plug. If you go slow the oil will drain relatively straight. One neat tip.. the doors flip so what you can do is open the first (closest) door a little and fold the rear door all the way open so that it catches on the first door.. close up the first door and it'll hold the flap in place.

Part 2 is not the most common type, but getting a little more common for the filter type cartridges. You need to open up the front door, this is the oil filter. Now if you have a binder clip you can clip it where it actually FOLDS open.. this is the only good way in my mind to keep it open. Use a 10mm (could be 13mm I might be a little off). In the inside of the filter, it'll pop off and you can drain the oil from the filter housing. Next is a 32mm shallow socket. This takes the entire filter cartridge out. Pop off the old filter, push the new one in. Also the new filters should come with a new gasket, and a new plug for the middle of the filter. Put all those together. Now this is what confused some people... the filter cartridge might have a felt type hole that is smaller than what you see come out. You simply just need to push that on it'll expand over the filter hole. Keep pushing until you can get the cap started.. and then you're golden. Close it all up (make sure that middle drain plug is tight) and fill up the oil with a 5qt jug of oil. I think the full capacity is 5.5 but unless you're the type to let the oil drain all day long I don't think you'll ever get there. Still the car oil reading said full so I'm good.

To reset that oil light you need to push the start button (without pressing the pedal). Hold the trip odometer like 10 seconds until that secret menu comes up. First thing should be oil change and it would say possible/impossible. Reset you hold it another 3 seconds. To cycle through other resets you just push that odo button.

Have fun!
rice!

thanks for taking the time to do a written explanation. appreciate the support to do so. i plan on doing an oil change soon and this will definitely help
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      12-01-2019, 10:47 AM   #4
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Helpful link to BMW service manual here, specifically for US model xDrive 28i: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nce/1VnYfRoiMX

If you have a different model, navigate back to Newtis home page and enter your car information.
It's quite detailed compared to some other manufacturers' service manual.

As for tools specific to this car, I had to get a T55 socket (oil filter housing drain plug), 32mm oil filter socket (oil filter housing), 17mm regular socket (drain plug), and binder clip (I also use this trick to hold the underbody flaps open). Other more generic tools would be ramps, drain pan, funnel, ratchet, torque wrench, etc.

In terms of oil brand, I used BMW 0W-20 for the first change and then swapped over to the Liqui Moly SpecialTec 5W-30 oil change kit sold by fcpeuro afterwards. It offers more wear protection for the engine and turbo bits and 0W-20 is recommended on the oil cap mostly to satisfy CAFE regulations, but do your own research. Oil brand is probably a hotter topic to discuss than even politics lol.

Also, oil capacity for the xDrive 28i is 5.25L, which is exactly what I put back in. You may be fine with only 5L, but I rather be as precise as possible.

Good luck with your first oil change.
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      12-03-2019, 07:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
Helpful link to BMW service manual here, specifically for US model xDrive 28i: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nce/1VnYfRoiMX

If you have a different model, navigate back to Newtis home page and enter your car information.
It's quite detailed compared to some other manufacturers' service manual.

As for tools specific to this car, I had to get a T55 socket (oil filter housing drain plug), 32mm oil filter socket (oil filter housing), 17mm regular socket (drain plug), and binder clip (I also use this trick to hold the underbody flaps open). Other more generic tools would be ramps, drain pan, funnel, ratchet, torque wrench, etc.

In terms of oil brand, I used BMW 0W-20 for the first change and then swapped over to the Liqui Moly SpecialTec 5W-30 oil change kit sold by fcpeuro afterwards. It offers more wear protection for the engine and turbo bits and 0W-20 is recommended on the oil cap mostly to satisfy CAFE regulations, but do your own research. Oil brand is probably a hotter topic to discuss than even politics lol.

Also, oil capacity for the xDrive 28i is 5.25L, which is exactly what I put back in. You may be fine with only 5L, but I rather be as precise as possible.

Good luck with your first oil change.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
Helpful link to BMW service manual here, specifically for US model xDrive 28i: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nce/1VnYfRoiMX

If you have a different model, navigate back to Newtis home page and enter your car information.
It's quite detailed compared to some other manufacturers' service manual.

As for tools specific to this car, I had to get a T55 socket (oil filter housing drain plug), 32mm oil filter socket (oil filter housing), 17mm regular socket (drain plug), and binder clip (I also use this trick to hold the underbody flaps open). Other more generic tools would be ramps, drain pan, funnel, ratchet, torque wrench, etc.

In terms of oil brand, I used BMW 0W-20 for the first change and then swapped over to the Liqui Moly SpecialTec 5W-30 oil change kit sold by fcpeuro afterwards. It offers more wear protection for the engine and turbo bits and 0W-20 is recommended on the oil cap mostly to satisfy CAFE regulations, but do your own research. Oil brand is probably a hotter topic to discuss than even politics lol.

Also, oil capacity for the xDrive 28i is 5.25L, which is exactly what I put back in. You may be fine with only 5L, but I rather be as precise as possible.

Good luck with your first oil change.
Skyline,

Thanks for the link! Very good pictorial
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      03-20-2021, 03:46 PM   #6
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Type of wrench foroil filter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
Helpful link to BMW service manual here, specifically for US model xDrive 28i: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nce/1VnYfRoiMX

As for tools specific to this car, I had to get a T55 socket (oil filter housing drain plug), 32mm oil filter socket (oil filter housing), 17mm regular socket (drain plug), and binder clip (I also use this trick to hold the underbody flaps open). Other more generic tools would be ramps, drain pan, funnel, ratchet, torque wrench, etc.
I know this is an old post but I'm hoping you might be notified of an update.
I am moving and got rid of a LOT of tools -- too many, it seems. You mention that you need a 32mm socket to remove the oil filter itself. I don't have access to my wife's X1 at the moment, but can you tell me if it requires a socket or if a box end wrench of 32mm would work, or too tight? Otherwise I have to buy a 1/2' socket and ratchet.

Thanks,.
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      03-20-2021, 04:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip2017 View Post
I know this is an old post but I'm hoping you might be notified of an update.
I am moving and got rid of a LOT of tools -- too many, it seems. You mention that you need a 32mm socket to remove the oil filter itself. I don't have access to my wife's X1 at the moment, but can you tell me if it requires a socket or if a box end wrench of 32mm would work, or too tight? Otherwise I have to buy a 1/2' socket and ratchet.

Thanks,.
This is what you need:

https://www.amazon.com/ATLIN-32mm-Oi...274754&sr=8-14
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      03-20-2021, 04:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip2017 View Post
I know this is an old post but I'm hoping you might be notified of an update.
I am moving and got rid of a LOT of tools -- too many, it seems. You mention that you need a 32mm socket to remove the oil filter itself. I don't have access to my wife's X1 at the moment, but can you tell me if it requires a socket or if a box end wrench of 32mm would work, or too tight? Otherwise I have to buy a 1/2' socket and ratchet.

Thanks,.
I recommend proper oil filter socket and ratchet. It's a tight space. I don't think you'll have the clearance for a wrench, even the flex head type.
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      03-20-2021, 09:50 PM   #9
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I have a BMW technical service manual. send me a PM and I can send you a link.
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      03-20-2021, 10:18 PM   #10
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I agree that it would be a very tight fit .I already use a longer extension with the oil filter wrench and it does come out at an angle. If you had a box wrench that big the only way you'd touch it is vertically and then you wouldn't have a lot of torque.. Plus there's a few wires and things that a large box wrench would catch on.
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      03-24-2021, 05:14 PM   #11
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Here's a .pdf that shows the procedure for pre-LCI models.
Just make sure that you get the filter canister sealing O-ring in the correct, larger groove on the canister.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf newTIS.pdf (734.6 KB, 1484 views)
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Last edited by Ridin'Dirty; 03-24-2021 at 05:23 PM..
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      03-24-2021, 09:58 PM   #12
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hey guys my 2017 x1 has the extended gauge cluster and when I hold down the reset button to the left of the cluster, nothing happens... is there a sequence iam missing to due my oil reset?? I get in car, close door, put key in cup holder, push start stop button once, push odometer reset button down for up to 30 sec.. nothing changes.. should I change anthing with the turn signal stock?
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      03-25-2021, 10:29 AM   #13
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      03-27-2021, 09:45 PM   #14
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ah push the start stop button twice!!!! I have been hitting it just once as per all the videos I saw on YouTube.
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      09-15-2021, 09:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice_rocket88 View Post
Hmm well if you haven't found one let me try to explain it to you.. I didn't recall seeing one before, but someone had typed up something. Either way I literally did mine yesterday so I'll try to get all the measurements right in my head.

First there are two doors under the front. You can very much easily do this with car ramps. Both these doors are held in by these large spinning plastic discs. You just need a big fat screwdriver or even a quarter would do it.. you rotate the disc until there isn't a piece holding the door closed. First go for the oil plug which is the door furthest away (ie closer to the trunk). This plug is 17mm I believe. It's actually perpendicular to the ground and over to the left of the hole (lying down facing up). I actually just changed this for a magnetic oil plug. If you go slow the oil will drain relatively straight. One neat tip.. the doors flip so what you can do is open the first (closest) door a little and fold the rear door all the way open so that it catches on the first door.. close up the first door and it'll hold the flap in place.

Part 2 is not the most common type, but getting a little more common for the filter type cartridges. You need to open up the front door, this is the oil filter. Now if you have a binder clip you can clip it where it actually FOLDS open.. this is the only good way in my mind to keep it open. Use a 10mm (could be 13mm I might be a little off). In the inside of the filter, it'll pop off and you can drain the oil from the filter housing. Next is a 32mm shallow socket. This takes the entire filter cartridge out. Pop off the old filter, push the new one in. Also the new filters should come with a new gasket, and a new plug for the middle of the filter. Put all those together. Now this is what confused some people... the filter cartridge might have a felt type hole that is smaller than what you see come out. You simply just need to push that on it'll expand over the filter hole. Keep pushing until you can get the cap started.. and then you're golden. Close it all up (make sure that middle drain plug is tight) and fill up the oil with a 5qt jug of oil. I think the full capacity is 5.5 but unless you're the type to let the oil drain all day long I don't think you'll ever get there. Still the car oil reading said full so I'm good.

To reset that oil light you need to push the start button (without pressing the pedal). Hold the trip odometer like 10 seconds until that secret menu comes up. First thing should be oil change and it would say possible/impossible. Reset you hold it another 3 seconds. To cycle through other resets you just push that odo button.

Have fun!
Thanks for that information. Helpful to visualize it prior to doing the job.
Cheers,
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