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      06-25-2018, 12:59 PM   #23
mrexcuse
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Maybe a little too late on this thread, but wanted to add this photo for completion.

I used the 65 and 104 fuses as described above. If I leave the car for a few days I get the discharge warning as well - might need to set the threshold on the camera higher, but I like to have it the dashcam recording in parking mode.

I used the bolt on the right circled in red for the ground. Wasn't able to fit the ground cable onto the post, but instead I just tightened it down and won't be going anywhere.
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      06-25-2018, 01:56 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrexcuse View Post
Maybe a little too late on this thread, but wanted to add this photo for completion.

I used the 65 and 104 fuses as described above. If I leave the car for a few days I get the discharge warning as well - might need to set the threshold on the camera higher, but I like to have it the dashcam recording in parking mode.

I used the bolt on the right circled in red for the ground. Wasn't able to fit the ground cable onto the post, but instead I just tightened it down and won't be going anywhere.
This is super helpful as I haven't actually got around to this yet. Just wanted to be sure there was an accessible ground before tearing the glovebox off.


The internet thanks you. I'll be doing a USB and radar detector hardwire combo.
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      06-27-2018, 07:44 PM   #25
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Happy to help, pm me if you had any other questions - keep in mind the photo above doesn't show the whole fusebox - some is hidden behind the airbag and plastic trim and one of the fuses you need to access is down there.
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      01-26-2019, 03:08 PM   #26
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I am grateful for the advice set out in this thread. This evening I hardwired a dashcam into my X1 using fuse 65 and the easiest method I found to establish a ground was to remove the thin piece of trim below the glove box and to utilise the lefthand bolt (which passes through a dashboard metal bracket) holding the plastic trim below the glovebox. This negated the need to remove the glovebox.
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      11-06-2019, 01:28 PM   #27
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Great but

Thanks to everyone who contributed their fails and success stories along with photos - super helpful. So... my F48 doesn't have anything in 104. Any help in locating an always on fuse, much appreciated!!!

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      11-13-2019, 12:00 AM   #28
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If you are using a fuse tap, you can stick it into 104 (if empty). If you look into the empty slot, you can see the metal connectors for the +12 bus going along one side of the fuse bus.

Also, for anyone looking for +12 ACC, they lined up on either side of the folded paper holder (e.g. 49-60). They are the smaller mini fuses. I also had a few empty slots, so I used one on the left side, because of the way the fuse tap is oriented, so it wouldn't interfere with the paper holder.
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      12-07-2019, 11:50 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TYO_X1 View Post
If you are using a fuse tap, you can stick it into 104 (if empty). If you look into the empty slot, you can see the metal connectors for the +12 bus going along one side of the fuse bus.

Also, for anyone looking for +12 ACC, they lined up on either side of the folded paper holder (e.g. 49-60). They are the smaller mini fuses. I also had a few empty slots, so I used one on the left side, because of the way the fuse tap is oriented, so it wouldn't interfere with the paper holder.
Thanks for the suggestion regarding 104, worked like a charm. It was in fact empty. I ended up putting a 20 and 10 fuse into the fuse tap.
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      09-09-2020, 12:37 AM   #30
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Resurrecting this thread for some help. I plan on installing a new dash cam soon and want to hardwire it for the parking mode feature. I've hardwired other dash cams before, but wanted to confirm a few details. My hardwire power source has 3 wires - 1 for ground, 1 for ACC/key on and 1 for constant power.

For fuse 104 and 65, can someone confirm the blade size and type of power source for each?

From the photos and prior posts, I believe fuse 104 is a large standard fuse (circled in red from attached pic) and has an "always on" power source. Fuse 65 (or any other 12V source) is a mini/low profile fuse that only turns on with accessory power or in key on mode. Is my understanding correct?

Thanks for the help.
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      09-09-2020, 02:10 AM   #31
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I am looking for a slot for constant power as well. My car (X2) has exact same diagram, and also has nothing in 104, nor does it have a rating of fuse size. What exactly is 104 used for on X1?

For ACC, will probably grab from 65 or 63, they are the last on the diagram on lower right which should be cig lighter port
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      09-09-2020, 08:54 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkrave View Post
I am looking for a slot for constant power as well. My car (X2) has exact same diagram, and also has nothing in 104, nor does it have a rating of fuse size. What exactly is 104 used for on X1?

For ACC, will probably grab from 65 or 63, they are the last on the diagram on lower right which should be cig lighter port
If I'm reading the fuse diagram for 104 correctly, it seems to terminate at the left headlight. Newtis.info link here: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...sav/1VnXZjb5pi

But, this doesn't make sense if there's no fuse at all in that slot...
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      09-17-2020, 12:51 AM   #33
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My concern about unused slot is that without a fuse, whatever thats connected to that fuse slot doesnt get any power, but when we tap it and insert a fuse, the power reaches its originally intended location. If whatever item thats connected is not there, then its fine, but if like Skyline2.0 said, it delivers power to left headlight which was already working without it... dont know what may happen.

Last edited by tkrave; 06-11-2022 at 11:43 PM..
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      09-21-2020, 09:51 PM   #34
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Installed a dash cam over the weekend, so I figured out the answers to my question.

I ended up using fuse 63 (not 65) and 104 - both will require the large size add-a-fuse. I couldn't use fuse 65 as there was a clearance issue when I oriented the add-a-fuse in the correct manner. 104 is indeed always hot; 63 will turn off after 2-4 minutes after car shuts down.

tkrave, upon closer inspection of fuse 104, there is only 1 metal clip in that space, only allowing 1 prong of the fuse will receive power. The other fuses that actually power an electronic component, like fuse 63, have metal clips to insert both prongs of the fuse, such that power will go in 1 end of the fuse and out the other. My description should make more sense if you take a close look at the fuse box and compare an active fuse slot to 104.

My left headlight functioned as usual when I tapped fuse slot 104. This makes sense since there is only power going into 1 prong in this slot, but no where for the power to go out of the fuse box. Once I tapped it, the power would go to my dash cam instead with the circuit getting completed through the ground wire of my hardwire kit.
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      10-06-2020, 06:41 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline2.0 View Post
Installed a dash cam over the weekend, so I figured out the answers to my question.

I ended up using fuse 63 (not 65) and 104 - both will require the large size add-a-fuse. I couldn't use fuse 65 as there was a clearance issue when I oriented the add-a-fuse in the correct manner. 104 is indeed always hot; 63 will turn off after 2-4 minutes after car shuts down.

tkrave, upon closer inspection of fuse 104, there is only 1 metal clip in that space, only allowing 1 prong of the fuse will receive power. The other fuses that actually power an electronic component, like fuse 63, have metal clips to insert both prongs of the fuse, such that power will go in 1 end of the fuse and out the other. My description should make more sense if you take a close look at the fuse box and compare an active fuse slot to 104.

My left headlight functioned as usual when I tapped fuse slot 104. This makes sense since there is only power going into 1 prong in this slot, but no where for the power to go out of the fuse box. Once I tapped it, the power would go to my dash cam instead with the circuit getting completed through the ground wire of my hardwire kit.
Skyline2.0, thank you for the information, I didnt look into rails careful enough, but as you said, if only has metal on single side, them should be ok.

I plan to wire my dash cam this weekend, will test out 104 and 63 first.
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      10-15-2020, 02:10 AM   #36
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Just a quick update for those whom may be interested.

As Skyline2.0 said, the rails only has metal on single side so the empty slots should be pretty safe to use. I ended up wiring my dashcam with parking mode enabled using #38 (5A) for constant power and #57 (5A) for ignition power. #61-66 are accessories power and have to wait 5-10min before power gets cutoff.

Although my car is X2, I think the fuse layout is very similar with X1 if not identical. you may want to check the supported Ampare with the fusebox layout paper.
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      03-04-2021, 01:46 PM   #37
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Maybe also a little bit too late but I would like to share my experience for a RHD X1 camera installation using fuse area. Based on the advice from this forum I looked to the best fuses to connect my DDPAI 4K dash cam to ensure parking mode will be enabled.

So, after removing the plastic plate at the bottom of glove compartment and checking the fuse card using VIN number - see below link ( no paper fuse card included in the fuse box ) I decided to unscrew all screws surrounding the glove box and remove it completely for better access.

https://www.bmw.ie/en/topics/owners/fusecard.html

Once glove box removed I used a voltage tester to check continuous voltage on the fuses.

I ended up with fuse 104 for continuous voltage and 63 for ignition voltage both being empty slots. I used intelligent connection kit with dedicated fuse connectors therefore all operation took around 40 min .

All it's working perfectly and thanks to my dash cam software I can also monitor the voltage of the battery and set the standby duration/ camera off in case the voltage will drop to a specific dangerous level.

Thank you very much for useful inputs provided on this thread.
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      06-09-2022, 11:28 AM   #38
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NextBase 622GW

I fitted my new dash cam and this thread was really helpful, I only and to fit a live and earth, I connected the earth cable to the bolt that holds the dashboard on, you see this when you remove the side panel (the one with the 'Air Bag Switch' on). I used Fuse 65 in the fuse box to 'piggy back' onto. There was nothing plugged into fuse 63. I found out that fuse 65 is for the cigarette lighter in the front.

Thank you all for posting your pictures and help.
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Last edited by Welsh X1 2023; 06-09-2022 at 12:03 PM.. Reason: Adding a picture
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      11-12-2022, 01:55 PM   #39
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It worked.

Both 42+65 or 62+65 worked for me.
Thank you guys here, all your updates really helped.
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      01-13-2024, 11:47 AM   #40
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Finally after being pointed to this thread, I've got my Nextbase dashcam working

Plugged into 63 and it's working now. I have tested and yes the camera does stay on even after ignition is off, but after locking up the car and leaving it for a few minutes, returned to the car (without unlocking it) and the camera was off.

Powers up the moment you unlock the car. Finally got it working. Now just need to feed the wires into the back of the tailgate for the rear cam now too.

has anyone come across a video or detailed instructions on how and where to lever internal panels to pop them off to give me easier access to thread the wire through to the rear cam that will be positioned at the top of the tail gate?

Thanks in advacne if anyone can help.
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      01-13-2024, 06:08 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKX1owner View Post
Finally after being pointed to this thread, I've got my Nextbase dashcam working

Plugged into 63 and it's working now. I have tested and yes the camera does stay on even after ignition is off, but after locking up the car and leaving it for a few minutes, returned to the car (without unlocking it) and the camera was off.

Powers up the moment you unlock the car. Finally got it working. Now just need to feed the wires into the back of the tailgate for the rear cam now too.

has anyone come across a video or detailed instructions on how and where to lever internal panels to pop them off to give me easier access to thread the wire through to the rear cam that will be positioned at the top of the tail gate?

Thanks in advacne if anyone can help.
The trim in the photos is the only one you will need to pop out using the trim tool.

This is the way I installed on mine.

I run the wire along the side of the roof behind the rubber gasket. Some of the wire can be tucked away between the roof liner and A or B piller trim by using the trim tool.

After you pop out the trim panel on the tail gate there will be a slack on the roof liner.

Then to run the wire to the tail gate, pull out the rubber gourmet from both ends of the roof and the tail gate nice and easy.

Thin and long plastic zip tie or similar can be used to run the wire through the rubber gourmet.

You can also find some videos on YouTube for your reference. Blackbox my car YouTube channel is good for reference.
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